Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 397 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11881 of 12621 Old 04-29-2015, 05:14 PM
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until we get to the next page

and what do you know, it worked ;-)
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post #11882 of 12621 Old 04-29-2015, 09:39 PM
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The administrator was correct; I never had an issue even before the one word posts.
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post #11883 of 12621 Old 04-30-2015, 06:09 AM
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Now that we have moved on to page 397, all is well again.
Page 396 is still a text-based turd though
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post #11884 of 12621 Old 04-30-2015, 06:31 AM
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Hi guys, I need help with my HT setup. Currently I have

TV - 64F8500
Bluray - Oppo BDP 105D
Receiver - Panasonic SA-XR55
HDMI Swicher - Monoprice 4x1
Apple TV
TVPad 3
Amazon Fire

Since I used OTA Antenna to get local programming, I used the optical out from TV to Oppo. The Oppo was connected to the receiver using the 5.1 RCA analog connection. I'm currently trying to choose between:

a. Put all those streaming devices (ATV, TVPad3, & Amazon Fire), connect them to HDMI switcher & use the HDMI out to Oppo.
b. Get rid of the HDMI switcher, connect them directly to the TV using the HDMI and let the TV get the audio out using the Optical connection to Oppo.

Which one is a better choice?

Thanks
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post #11885 of 12621 Old 04-30-2015, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYCeT View Post
Hi guys, I need help with my HT setup. Currently I have

TV - 64F8500
Bluray - Oppo BDP 105D
Receiver - Panasonic SA-XR55
HDMI Swicher - Monoprice 4x1
Apple TV
TVPad 3
Amazon Fire

Since I used OTA Antenna to get local programming, I used the optical out from TV to Oppo. The Oppo was connected to the receiver using the 5.1 RCA analog connection. I'm currently trying to choose between:

a. Put all those streaming devices (ATV, TVPad3, & Amazon Fire), connect them to HDMI switcher & use the HDMI out to Oppo.
b. Get rid of the HDMI switcher, connect them directly to the TV using the HDMI and let the TV get the audio out using the Optical connection to Oppo.

Which one is a better choice?

Thanks
If you choose B, you lose 5.1 from your other devices other than OTA and OPPO when playing Blu Ray. The tv will not send 5.1 audio from Apple TV and Amazon via optical. I do not know what TVPad3 is, but if that has 5.1 capability, you will lose that too.
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post #11886 of 12621 Old 04-30-2015, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post
If you choose B, you lose 5.1 from your other devices other than OTA and OPPO when playing Blu Ray. The tv will not send 5.1 audio from Apple TV and Amazon via optical. I do not know what TVPad3 is, but if that has 5.1 capability, you will lose that too.
Thanks, I guess A is the way to go.
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post #11887 of 12621 Old 05-01-2015, 01:50 PM
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Any updates? I still haven't been able to determine if this is a wide spread problem (which tells me it isnt), are you also on Dish?
I have Comcast. Come to think of it, when The Walking Dead looked terrible, I DID have Dish.
Anyway the latest episode of Game of Thrones looked good when I watched the broadcast. Maybe not perfect but good. It seems the issue really lies in the compression. The HBO Go streaming video should certainly be worse. The scene where Daenerys is in the catacombs really exposed the compression. Cable/Dish providers may compress some broadcasts but it probably won't be as much compression as a streaming video.

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post #11888 of 12621 Old 05-01-2015, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GTIFace View Post
Cable/Dish providers may compress some broadcasts but it probably won't be as much compression as a streaming video.
You're correct but cable and dish providers can be pretty egregious in their over-compression as well.

Not as bad as streaming, but there's nothing preventing cable and dish provders from compressing more highly than streaming providers do, either.
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post #11889 of 12621 Old 05-03-2015, 03:53 PM
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I am pleased to give a report of my recent calibration of my Samsung 64F8500 panel.


The TV is about 1 year old. After it was "burned in" I contacted Chad B for a calibration, and was placed in the queue.


Do not doubt, that I often second-guessed myself on the wisdom of this, and wondered whether I should cancel the calibration request. This 64F8500 replaced an 8G Kuro (that had only been adjusted by me using consumer-level calibrations discs), and after my consumer-level adjustment of the 64F8500, it is was clearly the best picture that I had ever had. So, did I really need to pay for further calibration?


I went through with the commitment, and I am quite happy that I did.


Chad B arrived exactly on time, at 10:00 AM. He proceeded to attached a sensor to the panel and setup a tripod with another sensor.


Time passed, he did his thing. Such a calibration normally takes about 4 hours. However, I had a couple of "troublesome inputs". That took a lot more analysis and time.


Chad B hung in there for 7.5 hours -- 10;00 - 5:30 -- to get everything perfect. I could see his concentration as he was running pattern after pattern, to get the grayscale and the CMS properly setup, for both a night mode and a day mode, on three different inputs.


Whenever I asked what was going on, and how it was going, he gave me a lot of insightful commentary about how the TV was behaving, how the inputs were behaving, and how to deal with it all.


He pretty much killed his entire day, working almost twice as long as usual, bringing my 64F8500 up to his specs, even though he had a 2-hour drive to make after he left my place.


The result is quite amazing. I was a little skeptical that the calibration would significantly improve the picture, even though I decided to go through with it.


It's hard to objectively describe the result. The result is clearly in "Oh My Goodness" territory. The color balance and the contrast / brightness / grayscale is obviously better, but the 2-D picture now has a "3-D" impression that was not present previously. I am not sure what is going on, honestly. I don't care for, and don't watch 3-D, but the sense of depth that the 2-D picture now presents, as well as the accurate colors and white balance, is really quite nice. The picture is cinematic and textured in a way it was not before, and meets the worn cliché that "we see things that we did not see before".

I honesty think that this was the best calibration bargain in my experience.

I highly recommend this calibration.


EDIT: actually, four (4) different inputs counting the Apps (Netflix / Amazon).
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Last edited by shadowspawn; 05-03-2015 at 08:34 PM.
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post #11890 of 12621 Old 05-03-2015, 04:44 PM
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Chad does an excellent job congrats on the great calibration !
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post #11891 of 12621 Old 05-03-2015, 05:05 PM
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Will Chad come to New York?
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post #11892 of 12621 Old 05-03-2015, 08:37 PM
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Will Chad come to New York?
As he came to the wilds of New Hampshire, I expect that he would come to New York.
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post #11893 of 12621 Old 05-04-2015, 11:13 AM
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I am pleased to give a report of my recent calibration of my Samsung 64F8500 panel.
Ok so I've never really considered getting my TV professionally calibrated. Now that I have this set, I'm interested. Open questions to all…
Is it only worth while if someone of Chad's caliber does it? What do certified calibrators charge (approx range) to calibrate your set? Does everyone else feel that their F8500 looks much better after getting a professional calibration?

TVs: PN64F8500, PN50B850
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post #11894 of 12621 Old 05-04-2015, 01:11 PM
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I had Kevin Miller come and do my 51" after I had spent way too long on the recommended settings thread and had even done a DIY calibration with a C3/Calman bundle. While I apparently had it fairly close, I have not regretted having Kevin dial it to "spot on" with his state of the art equipment. The incremental improvement is fairly subtle, but I believe it looks even better than it did before and there is definitely a pleasure I get from knowing I am looking at about as accurate a picture as you can currently get from a TV (apparently the color accuracy is better on the F8500 than on the LG OLED). Kevin took a lot less time than Chad did in the above review, but I have everything on one input and it didn't need a huge amount of tweaking. I have not regretted the money spent.

I can't speak to the quality of the Best Buy calibrators, but I'm not sure I would get the satisfaction of knowing it is spot on if I did not completely trust that the calibrator knows what he or she was doing. For cost-effectiveness, using the C3/Calman bundle and doing it yourself may be cheaper and more fun than other alternatives.
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post #11895 of 12621 Old 05-04-2015, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTIFace View Post
Ok so I've never really considered getting my TV professionally calibrated. Now that I have this set, I'm interested. Open questions to all…
Is it only worth while if someone of Chad's caliber does it? What do certified calibrators charge (approx range) to calibrate your set? Does everyone else feel that their F8500 looks much better after getting a professional calibration?
There are many qualified calibrators out there. You may have a few where you live. I'm sure someone on this forum could point you in the right direction if they knew where you lived. Chad, D-Nice and others on this forum are the best at what they do. I have had my last 3 TV's calibrated and could never go back to an uncalibrated tv. The first time I had it done, it took a little while to get use to the calibration as my eyes were so accustomed to oversaturated colors. So at first the calibration may catch you off guard, but once you see all the detail that you have been missing, the color accuracy, the better blacks, etc, you will never go back.
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post #11896 of 12621 Old 05-04-2015, 05:06 PM
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I'm having some audio issues and I'm hoping someone else has some advice for me.

I have a 60" F8500 that sends the audio to an Onkyo HT-RC430 via ARC.

When I'm listening the Samsung Pandora app, it will occasionally play pink noise very loudly. If I "skip" to the next song, it will work normally. But this also happens in the Samsung PLEX app as well. So I don't believe the problem lies with the app. Once a song starts, it is good until it ends. So this problem ONLY happens at the onset of a new sound/song.

My thoughts are that this could be some sort of HDMI handshaking problem that may be solved with a new AVR. It could be a Samsung problem as well. Has anyone else out there ever had this problem?

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post #11897 of 12621 Old 05-04-2015, 07:51 PM
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I have the same Pandora pink noise issue and the same 60f8500. Seems to work fine with Sammy app for 10-20 minutes then loud static. TV is hooked up through HDMI 3 to Yamaha receiver.

I switched to my Tivo Pandora app and have zero issues.
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post #11898 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 05:52 AM
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For cost-effectiveness, using the C3/Calman bundle and doing it yourself may be cheaper and more fun than other alternatives.
Interesting twist. I think I would enjoy something like this.

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post #11899 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 11:15 AM
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I don't know if its pink noise or white noise, but sometimes when watching YouTube videos, when going to a new video, it starts playing with a very loud noise. If I go to the next video, it stops. I wonder if its the same as the Pandora issue you're having.

Also on the YouTube app, it's too bad you can't use the side by side 3d option. I have to turn in my ps3 to make it work.
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post #11900 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kucharsk View Post
More data on my issue:
  • If I turn the TV off then immediately back on, it turns on on the first try.
  • If I turn the TV off and leave it off for more than ten minutes or so, it turns back on on the first try.
  • If I turn the TV off and wait between 30 seconds and ten minutes or so, when I turn it on the LED flashes about once every five seconds for about a minute, then goes dark. I have to turn it off then back on, sometimes it will then start on the second try, sometimes it takes a third.
  • If I had a "no start," when the TV does power up the date/time has been reset to UNIX 0 (December 31, 1969 6:00 PM for me in the Mountain Time Zone); if the TV turns on normally it retains the date/time.

It's so regular it almost seems like a feature, but no one would design this in.

Update:
Best Buy is having a new power supply and main board drop-shipped to my home for the service call, so I hope it's not the "Y" board.
Update Two:

They replaced the power supply board and the TV now works perfectly.

I am very, very thankful I walked into Best Buy and they had this open box F8500.
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post #11901 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 05:08 PM
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So hey guys, If you see some of my old post, you can see that I have a 64F8500, I have a buyer line-up to pick up my recently repair (panel and most components replacement) 64F8500 next month because of the amount of time my family watches TV and that the warranty is expired. But I guess since the TV has been Refurbish by Samsung in the last 2 months, I just got a letter in the mail for Samsung Protection Plus, and they are offering me a 1 year, 3 year and 5 year warranty for $550, $1404 and $2066. Now I'm stuck with a decision because I cant find something in the market today to replace my 64F8500 quality unless I spend around $4500.00, and if I do, it's still only coming with a 1 year warranty. So I was thinking buying the 3 year or 5 year warranty might be worth it. But I can't find no feedback from anybody about Samsung Protection Plus. I'm going to call then tomorrow to see if I get some more answers, but I wanted to see if anybody else in here heard of then. TV is around 20 months old.

Thanks
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post #11902 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kucharsk View Post
Update Two:

They replaced the power supply board and the TV now works perfectly.

I am very, very thankful I walked into Best Buy and they had this open box F8500.
mine TV had this issues too, Started like that and I ignore it for about 4 months, then my panel died after that. hopefully you did the right thing. since replacing my whole panel tv has not done that, and it looks amazing still.
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post #11903 of 12621 Old 05-05-2015, 09:00 PM
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If you're curious to see the inside… the yellowish board is the power supply, the main PCB is to the right and below.
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post #11904 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 05:05 AM
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Hi guys,

What is the latest evolution kit that works with my 64F8500?
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post #11905 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 07:11 AM
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Brightness setting related to contrast ratio

Does increasing/decreasing the brightness setting have an affect on contrast ratio? For example, when using a higher gamma setting (2.4 vs 2.3) I have to increase the brightness setting so that up to bar 17 flashes again. In changing the brightness setting and keeping the contrast setting the same, am I losing out on contrast ratio (even if only slightly) since the range in-between contrast and brightness is smaller?

Just trying to better understand the relationship between the two
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post #11906 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 09:17 AM
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Hi to all F8500 owners,
I've a 51f8500 made in hungary in 2013 but I bought it 3 months ago (new). The panel has 400hours now.
Do any of you ever experience some kind of "residual glow" after a bright scene if there is a very dark one? The glow disappeares in 1-2 second and contrast ratio returns to normal. Easiest way to reproduce this is switching from a white pictore to a black one, or from a bright DTT channel to a no-signal one. I also tried Vs and Vscan tweaks but nothing. Can it be the panel needs for more break in? This is very killing my enjoyment of F8500 and making me think to find an used Panasonic...
Thanks a lot
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post #11907 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 09:39 AM
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Hi to all F8500 owners,
I've a 51f8500 made in hungary in 2013 but I bought it 3 months ago (new). The panel has 400hours now.
Do any of you ever experience some kind of "residual glow" after a bright scene if there is a very dark one? The glow disappeares in 1-2 second and contrast ratio returns to normal. Easiest way to reproduce this is switching from a white pictore to a black one, or from a bright DTT channel to a no-signal one. I also tried Vs and Vscan tweaks but nothing. Can it be the panel needs for more break in? This is very killing my enjoyment of F8500 and making me think to find an used Panasonic...
Thanks a lot
That's not unusual for a new tv. Mine did that initially, but now no such issues. What is your cell light set to? Also, are you only seeing this in a totally dark room? Not trying to be funny, but going from a bright scene to a dark scene rapidly in a dark room does cause brief IR on your eyes retinas. Shine a flashlight in your eyes briefly, close your eyes, you will still see IR of that flash.
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Last edited by wxman; 05-06-2015 at 09:45 AM.
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post #11908 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno2284 View Post
I just got a letter in the mail for Samsung Protection Plus, and they are offering me a 1 year, 3 year and 5 year warranty for $550, $1404 and $2066. Now I'm stuck with a decision because I cant find something in the market today to replace my 64F8500 quality unless I spend around $4500.00, and if I do, it's still only coming with a 1 year warranty. So I was thinking buying the 3 year or 5 year warranty might be worth it. But I can't find no feedback from anybody about Samsung Protection Plus. I'm going to call then tomorrow to see if I get some more answers, but I wanted to see if anybody else in here heard of then. TV is around 20 months old.

Thanks
I don't know anything about the Samsung warranty, but their price is astronomical. I got a 5 year warranty from Best Buy for about $550, which I thought was way too much. The reason I paid is that every TV and computer monitor I've purchased since 1995 has died shortly after the manufacturer's warranty expired, and I want this to be the last set I pay for.

I used the BB warranty when the audio amp blew (new main board).

Last edited by WantsNWarrants; 05-06-2015 at 12:00 PM. Reason: typo
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post #11909 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post
That's not unusual for a new tv. Mine did that initially, but now no such issues. What is your cell light set to? Also, are you only seeing this in a totally dark room? Not trying to be funny, but going from a bright scene to a dark scene rapidly in a dark room does cause brief IR on your eyes retinas. Shine a flashlight in your eyes briefly, close your eyes, you will still see IR of that flash.
This can also happen when brightness is set too low and the panel actually shuts the picture off. On my display it won't happen in movie mode but in standard mode if brightness is 3 clicks too low (45 instead of 48) the panel shuts off on black input.

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post #11910 of 12621 Old 05-06-2015, 02:27 PM
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That's not unusual for a new tv. Mine did that initially, but now no such issues. What is your cell light set to? Also, are you only seeing this in a totally dark room? Not trying to be funny, but going from a bright scene to a dark scene rapidly in a dark room does cause brief IR on your eyes retinas. Shine a flashlight in your eyes briefly, close your eyes, you will still see IR of that flash.

My cell light ranges from 12 to 18, sometimes 20, depending on the ambient light, but the issue does not seem to be influenced by different cell light levels. I have disabled any energy saving of course. I don't see the glow effect in the afternoon light, but I see it in a room with a small light (one of those philips lamps with colored leds and remote controller, set to minimum brightness) that is my standard "movie condition". The issue is mostly noticeable for example when ending titles start and last movie scene was bright.
I am 200% sure are not my eyes, the glow is tied to panel not to my eyes movements!
It looks like to be worse with a cold panel and better after some warmup

I really hope this will go away when I'll reach 1000+ hours, anyway thanks for reply you gave me a bit of hope. Anyway I am in contact with another 51 user who bought a demonstrative panel, has 1500 hours and has the same issue
p.s.: my panel had almost 30 hours out of the box, and it was sealed not refurbished I am pretty sure
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Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn60f8500 60 Inch 1080p 600hz 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn64f8500 64 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv
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