Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 408 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12211 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by brianmlamb View Post
anyone have any tips for removing an optical cable from the tv? Because of the small space on the side I can't seem to get the optical cable to come out of the port. Pulled on it pretty hard squeezing the sides and it wouldn't budge.

I also get an extreme amount of image retention right on startup, it goes away as soon as any content is displayed, but the "samsung smart" logo ghosts on the screen and the denon audio info at the bottom does too. It's not a big deal because as soon as anything is displayed it goes away immediately. It just annoys me because it happens every time I turn the tv on (I turned the smart logo off now, but the denon AVR and the display resolution still shows up and ghosts).

I had just the opposite effect with the optical cable. It was so lose it would easily come out of its socket. I actually found a cheap cable that worked much better and stayed in the socket. Maybe you inserted it improperly since the only action required is to pull the cable straight out. Just be very careful in your case.


I also get image retention, but as you said it goes away very quickly so there is nothing to worry about.
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post #12212 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by sr View Post


I also get image retention, but as you said it goes away very quickly so there is nothing to worry about.

I guess I'm lucky with respect to IR. I've never experienced it on this tv (60" version) and I didn't do any break in. I used to cringe when the kids watched the cartoon network when I first set up the tv in November-ish. that channel has one of the largest logos and it just SITS there in the lower right hand corner.


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post #12213 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sr View Post
I had just the opposite effect with the optical cable. It was so lose it would easily come out of its socket. I actually found a cheap cable that worked much better and stayed in the socket. Maybe you inserted it improperly since the only action required is to pull the cable straight out. Just be very careful in your case.


I also get image retention, but as you said it goes away very quickly so there is nothing to worry about.
Very possible I inserted it wrong, it was rather difficult to get it to click in to place. But I took extra care to match up the cutout exactly because of how hard it was to insert. I'm only wanting to take it out because my AVR keeps changing the input to TV after about 30 seconds of being on from my current HDMI source because the optical sends it's signal late. Super annoying and I should be able to get sound out of the ARC HDMI port anyway.

The image retention is odd because it only occurs when the AVR switches over to the "TV" input while displaying HDMI3, which causes the screen to have the green dither and is brighter than the normal black screen I get for input source. It goes away immediately after displaying something else on the screen, but I'd like to get rid of it by taking the optical cable out which appears to be stuck now =/
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post #12214 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianmlamb View Post
anyone have any tips for removing an optical cable from the tv? Because of the small space on the side I can't seem to get the optical cable to come out of the port. Pulled on it pretty hard squeezing the sides and it wouldn't budge.
I strongly recommend that you NOT unplug the TV end because the connection is very fragile. Instead, disconnect the AVR end.

If you break the connector, the only fix is to replace the main board, about $150. That's a real pain because nearly all the setup has to be done when the main board is replaced.

I suppose it might be possible to lubricate the connection to ease the unplugging, but I have no idea what lubricant to use.
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post #12215 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by WantsNWarrants View Post
I strongly recommend that you NOT unplug the TV end because the connection is very fragile. Instead, disconnect the AVR end.

If you break the connector, the only fix is to replace the main board, about $150. That's a real pain because nearly all the setup has to be done when the main board is replaced.

I suppose it might be possible to lubricate the connection to ease the unplugging, but I have no idea what lubricant to use.
Not to be critical, by why even use the optical when you have an AVR with HDMI switching. Just use the common output from the receiver to feed a single HDMI input on the TV. Another words, just use the TV as a monitor. I use the Roku and TiVo for apps and DVR/FiOS sources. I also understand that the optical connection limits the audio to the basic decoding format (I forget what it was). I use my receiver to decode sources so I get the best available audio.
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post #12216 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr View Post
Not to be critical, by why even use the optical when you have an AVR with HDMI switching. Just use the common output from the receiver to feed a single HDMI input on the TV. Another words, just use the TV as a monitor. I use the Roku and TiVo for apps and DVR/FiOS sources. I also understand that the optical connection limits the audio to the basic decoding format (I forget what it was). I use my receiver to decode sources so I get the best available audio.
If his receiver doesn't support ARC, or has glitches, and he wants to utilize the F8500 smart apps for streaming Netflix and the like, the alternate way to feed the receiver for surround sould would via a toslink connection.

The limitation of a toslink connection is that it doesn't pass the HD audio formats or lossless, but Netflix doesn't stream it anyway, so it's a non-issue.

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post #12217 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 11:39 AM
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If his receiver doesn't support ARC, or has glitches, and he wants to utilize the F8500 smart apps for streaming Netflix and the like, the alternate way to feed the receiver for surround sould would via a toslink connection.

The limitation of a toslink connection is that it doesn't pass the HD audio formats or lossless, but Netflix doesn't stream it anyway, so it's a non-issue.

I notice that the Roku puts out Dolby D+ for some programs on Netflix. The optical connection cannot pass that audio format through the TV. That's why I just use my receiver for all decoding.
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post #12218 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 11:46 AM
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I notice that the Roku puts out Dolby D+ for some programs on Netflix. The optical connection cannot pass that audio format through the TV. That's why I just use my receiver for all decoding.
That's great, but not everyone has a Roku in their setup, and many instead utilize the smart apps. With the toslink setup, they can at least get 5.1 surround.

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post #12219 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by brianmlamb View Post
anyone have any tips for removing an optical cable from the tv? Because of the small space on the side I can't seem to get the optical cable to come out of the port. Pulled on it pretty hard squeezing the sides and it wouldn't budge.

I also get an extreme amount of image retention right on startup, it goes away as soon as any content is displayed, but the "samsung smart" logo ghosts on the screen and the denon audio info at the bottom does too. It's not a big deal because as soon as anything is displayed it goes away immediately. It just annoys me because it happens every time I turn the tv on (I turned the smart logo off now, but the denon AVR and the display resolution still shows up and ghosts).
How many hours do you have on the panel? Mine still shows a little IR at boot up, mostly the last items it showed before being turned off (if held for longer than a minute or so).

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post #12220 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 01:00 PM
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I use and like the Netflix Smart App. The 8500 with the quad core processor is very fast to launch the app and navigate, and you run it with the same Samsung remote. The 8500 converts the DD+ to DD. You dont lose anything.
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post #12221 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WantsNWarrants View Post
I strongly recommend that you NOT unplug the TV end because the connection is very fragile. Instead, disconnect the AVR end.

If you break the connector, the only fix is to replace the main board, about $150. That's a real pain because nearly all the setup has to be done when the main board is replaced.

I suppose it might be possible to lubricate the connection to ease the unplugging, but I have no idea what lubricant to use.
Good call, I'll disconnect from the AVR.

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Originally Posted by sr View Post
Not to be critical, by why even use the optical when you have an AVR with HDMI switching. Just use the common output from the receiver to feed a single HDMI input on the TV. Another words, just use the TV as a monitor. I use the Roku and TiVo for apps and DVR/FiOS sources. I also understand that the optical connection limits the audio to the basic decoding format (I forget what it was). I use my receiver to decode sources so I get the best available audio.
I use the AVR (dennon 2112ci) to handle all inputs except for the coaxial from my over the air antenna. I don't have cable just use netflix, amazon prime, and watch bluray's using the PS3 or stream stuff to my chromecast from the PC. The denon doesn't have a coax input/output which I really wish it did. My old plasma before this one didn't have an ARC HDMI port so I had to use the optical. I just plugged it back in because it was 1 of 3 cords going to the TV when setting the F8500 up, then realized I didn't need it so I'm trying to remove it but it's now stuck

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How many hours do you have on the panel? Mine still shows a little IR at boot up, mostly the last items it showed before being turned off (if held for longer than a minute or so).
My panel I've figured out seems like it has a little over 5000 hours. I bought it second hand off craigslist locally as a stop gap TV until larger 4k OLED's are more reasonable. Guy said it was rarely used but after I got a universal remote to check the hours (didn't have one available when I picked it up) it appears it was either a demo unit or used very heavily. Dumb move on my part but oh well the picture looks great, no dead pixels, buzzes like crazy in the center though like most of the 60"er's do. The image retention only happens on startup and occurs from the text being displayed saying HDMI3 source and only for a split second until I switch sources then it's gone instantly. I think it's some glitch with the optical cable causing the receiver to switch inputs because that's the only time it happens. The black level is really high after the switch over, but returns to normal once I switch the AVR input back to the PS3.

Last edited by brianmlamb; 06-23-2015 at 01:40 PM.
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post #12222 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by brianmlamb View Post
I also get an extreme amount of image retention right on startup, it goes away as soon as any content is displayed, but the "samsung smart" logo ghosts on the screen and the denon audio info at the bottom does too. It's not a big deal because as soon as anything is displayed it goes away immediately. It just annoys me because it happens every time I turn the tv on (I turned the smart logo off now, but the denon AVR and the display resolution still shows up and ghosts).
I've noticed that as well - whatever the TV displays on startup for the first 30 seconds of operation or so seems to take a minute or so to disappear.

The important thing is that it does disappear, every time.
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post #12223 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 03:10 PM
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I've noticed that as well - whatever the TV displays on startup for the first 30 seconds of operation or so seems to take a minute or so to disappear.

The important thing is that it does disappear, every time.
I'm just going to call it a feature. The last great plasma showing off one of the biggest misconceptions about image retention and how quickly it goes away to a non-issue
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post #12224 of 12237 Old 06-23-2015, 08:35 PM
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Actually, my experience with Samsung was only pleasent when I went through their online chat. It also logged the whole conversation for me too. I highly recommend that. You can ask the tech that gets dispatched for part numbers--they are your local businesses that Samsung contracts with. I had to have the mainboard replaced since I was having big HDMI handshake issues (that I could tell) that required me to unplug the tv to resolve them.

You could always do what another member did--which is remove the AR Filter (I'm still not sure why he did that at all--but if warranty wont help it may be worth it).
I am pleased to hear that. I know that online comments tend to be negative because not many people go online to praise people and things that work. Right now I am just monitoring the bubble to see if it is growing. I have another 5 months of my warranty period. I really don't have the temperment to remove the bezel and attempt a repair anyway. The likelihood is that you would need special tools and materials to make a fix like I described - if it was even possible.

As long as the bubble stays where it is I will simply continue to enjoy the best picture I have ever seen on a television. It might be the only time in my life where I am able to own a reference display.
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post #12225 of 12237 Old 06-24-2015, 09:22 AM
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Joining this thread because yesterday I got one! I was in the market for a new TV and I did a bunch of research and reading/asking of opinions/tech. A couple of my close friends have 1 and they couldn't recommend it enough. I decided to do some digging and saw that it was selling for $2500 practically everywhere. I wanted to try and find it for cheaper, so I started looking for used ones, refurbed, etc. I went on the Samsung website and did that search for a retailer and they said Best Buy still had some. Went to BB and asked them to search country wide for stores that may have some. They found some and told me it was $1259 ($1372 after tax), brand new.

So I ended up getting a new one for half the price of basically all the places I have seen, I haggled and got a stand for $50 off (28%), and free delivery. I will be getting it Saturday. I am real excited to get it set up and test it out.

What sort of audio system do you guys run with your set up and what would you recommend?
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post #12226 of 12237 Old 06-24-2015, 09:25 AM
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Joining this thread because yesterday I got one! I was in the market for a new TV and I did a bunch of research and reading/asking of opinions/tech. A couple of my close friends have 1 and they couldn't recommend it enough. I decided to do some digging and saw that it was selling for $2500 practically everywhere. I wanted to try and find it for cheaper, so I started looking for used ones, refurbed, etc. I went on the Samsung website and did that search for a retailer and they said Best Buy still had some. Went to BB and asked them to search country wide for stores that may have some. They found some and told me it was $1259 ($1372 after tax), brand new.

So I ended up getting a new one for half the price of basically all the places I have seen, I haggled and got a stand for $50 off (28%), and free delivery. I will be getting it Saturday. I am real excited to get it set up and test it out.

What sort of audio system do you guys run with your set up and what would you recommend?
The speakers are not great, but pass-able for everyday viewing, if in not in too big a room.
They do get better after they are broken in a bit.
I usually utilize my 5.1 Denon/Energy setup for movies.

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post #12227 of 12237 Old 06-24-2015, 12:11 PM
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What sort of audio system do you guys run with your set up and what would you recommend?
For serious Blu-Ray watching, I use a serious surround-sound system connected to the Blu-Ray player.


But for everyday TV watching, casual Netflix movies, etc. I would not be without this:


http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-H55...sung+sound+bar


or the cheaper, newer version:


http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-J55...dp_ob_title_ce


The nice thing about it, besides the fact that it performs pretty well acoustically, is that if you connect it with HDMI to the ARC jack on the F8500, it turns on and off automatically with the TV, and the F8500 remote will control the volume, mute, and other functions of the sound bar.


There are cheaper soundbars that probably sound about as good, but I'd be sure to get one that the TV can control via the ARC connection.
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post #12228 of 12237 Old 06-26-2015, 06:16 PM
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If the Samsung App store thing fails, reset the Smart Hub. PITA to set up again, but reset usually works when nothing else does.
Amazon app not working for me neither. Tried all suggestions and still does nothing. Can not uninstall. Tried reset. Nothing. Please help
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post #12229 of 12237 Old 06-26-2015, 08:22 PM
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Amazon app not working for me neither. Tried all suggestions and still does nothing. Can not uninstall. Tried reset. Nothing. Please help
Mine stopped working and here is how I fixed it.
Go to the smart hub and "more apps"
There was an upgrade for Amazon. Do the update.
Turn TV off and on
Back to smart hub more apps
Go to Samung apps and find Amazon video. Notice it is no longer Amazon instant video
Uninstall
Install Amazon video
It is no longer in Samsung apps. Now it is in my apps

Worked for me anyway
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post #12230 of 12237 Old 06-27-2015, 10:55 AM
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Hey guys, with a new main board installed I'm thinking the excessive heat is what caused the old one to fail. I am considering adding (with zip ties--no altering) some 80mm fans to the back panel at the top of the tv where it vents to help pull hot air out of the TV unit (and subsquently the main board).

Does anyone have any experience with this? I'm thinking of using these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2F13KK758WMXQ

Any feedback is appreciated!

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post #12231 of 12237 Old 06-27-2015, 11:31 AM
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Hey guys, with a new main board installed I'm thinking the excessive heat is what caused the old one to fail. I am considering adding (with zip ties--no altering) some 80mm fans to the back panel at the top of the tv where it vents to help pull hot air out of the TV unit (and subsquently the main board).

Does anyone have any experience with this? I'm thinking of using these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2F13KK758WMXQ

Any feedback is appreciated!
I don't have any experience with those fans, but I do have this fan on the back of the tv, top vent on the HDMI side. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01

Just make sure you have the fans sucking air out of the vents, not blowing air into the vents.
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post #12232 of 12237 Old 06-27-2015, 12:30 PM
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Does anyone have any experience with this? I'm thinking of using these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2F13KK758WMXQ

Any feedback is appreciated!
My experience is that 80 mm fans are too small and too loud.

This is what I used:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...?id=C_00001625
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post #12233 of 12237 Old 06-27-2015, 02:18 PM
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I don't have any experience with those fans, but I do have this fan on the back of the tv, top vent on the HDMI side. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01

Just make sure you have the fans sucking air out of the vents, not blowing air into the vents.
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My experience is that 80 mm fans are too small and too loud.

This is what I used:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...?id=C_00001625

I actually had a spare 92mm that I found after posting this. It appears old PC fans will do the trick with some wiring. It's rated for 52cfm and is 19dba. should do the trick. Does anyone think the other side (Yboard) needs additional help too?

Thanks!

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post #12234 of 12237 Old 06-27-2015, 06:44 PM
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I'm using 5-120mm fans that wxman referenced. I placed 3 fans (exhaust) at top of panel, 2 left and 1 to the right, 2 intake fans at bottom of panel with filter screens. Running fans at 1000 RPM +/-. Dropped my panel temps from 42-44c to 34-36c.
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post #12235 of 12237 Old Yesterday, 06:18 PM
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64 Inch Stand

Hey Group I just got a 64 inch at best buy but it doesn't have a stand and I need one in my current set up? Anyone on AVS looking to sell their 64 in base? Please e-mail me at Bernieguenther at hotmail.com!
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post #12236 of 12237 Old Today, 08:38 AM
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I'm using 5-120mm fans that wxman referenced. I placed 3 fans (exhaust) at top of panel, 2 left and 1 to the right, 2 intake fans at bottom of panel with filter screens. Running fans at 1000 RPM +/-. Dropped my panel temps from 42-44c to 34-36c.
I am thinking of picking something up. I replaced the 92mm I reference earlier with 2 120mm fans. I am unimpressed at the conversion to 5V vs 12V with the PC fans (Yate Loons--not cheap or wimpy by any means). I'm hardly feeling any air move when mounted on the TV. I've order a set of AC Infinity 120mm fans. I'll let you know if they are any good.

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post #12237 of 12237 Old Today, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by skeeder View Post
I am thinking of picking something up. I replaced the 92mm I reference earlier with 2 120mm fans. I am unimpressed at the conversion to 5V vs 12V with the PC fans (Yate Loons--not cheap or wimpy by any means). I'm hardly feeling any air move when mounted on the TV. I've order a set of AC Infinity 120mm fans. I'll let you know if they are any good.
I'm just using one of the 120mm fans, and with cell light at 20 on my 64F8500, the temperature never hits 40C anymore. Most of the time it is between 36 and 38C. Again, that's with the cell light maxed out.
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Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn60f8500 60 Inch 1080p 600hz 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn64f8500 64 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv
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