Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 452 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13531 of 13560 Old 06-30-2016, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mwl001 View Post
Can you see if you have the same issue? I'm really more shocked more people aren't reporting this, whether that's because they don't use it or can't reproduce it.
I'm down to Amazon now. Would that provide any useful information?
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post #13532 of 13560 Old 06-30-2016, 03:27 PM
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I'm down to Amazon now. Would that provide any useful information?
No, fortunately I only experience the issue with HBO, I don't think anyone else has had issues with apps other than HBO.
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post #13533 of 13560 Old 07-03-2016, 06:07 PM
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I believe I've mentioned this before, but I don't know if there have been any solutions found since.

I own an F8500 and D7000. When watching Blu-rays, I use Cinema Smooth for all 2D material (looks best and doesn't have an annoying flicker).

However, with 3D material, it's the exact opposite. Cinema Smooth causes headache-inducing flickering. It actually looks more like the pixels are rapidly shifting. The depth effect also isn't quite as sweet, and my white balance calibration tweaks would have to be rather extreme to work out right. But it's the headache-like motion that is most craptacular about Cinema Smooth with 3D material. Again, this is with both TV sets. I know other people have not reported noticing this same issue in the past.

So, I switch off Cinema Smooth for 3D content. With my D7000, this is no problem. However, it's not in the living room with the HT equipment and the picture (at least the black levels and peak whites) are not as good as the F8500, so I'm looking to get the most out of my F8500's 3D material instead. What happens when I switch it off though? I believe ABL kicks in. I don't know why, but it does and it does quite often. It will flutter in and out. I'm going to try and record a video of what I am experiencing.

I am on FW 1209 (in the US), and I have the ability to upgrade to FW 1214. I doubt this will remedy anything regarding ABL, but I was wondering if anybody knew for sure. Not only that, I'm also curious if there are any picture setting adjustments that will take this away. The one fix that won't apply here (although it technically is a fix for the issue) is "turn on Cinema Smooth." Sorry, I can't do it with 3D material. I just can't.

Thanks!
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post #13534 of 13560 Old 07-04-2016, 03:19 AM
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Fooling around a bit, it appears I made some headway by not using CAL-DAY or CAL-NIGHT. When I use Movie mode, even with the exact same picture settings, it's barely noticeable when something "changes."

I will still record this someday to show people the effect that I was referring to. I have to question how people can watch 3D with Cinema Smooth enabled, though. It acts nothing like the greatness that Cinema Smooth is for 2D Blu-ray films. It has a lot of flicker and back-and-forth juddering... not sure what to call it, but rapid pixel shifting. It's nauseating after just a few seconds.
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post #13535 of 13560 Old 07-08-2016, 07:32 AM
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CS with 3D gives you a effective 48Hz refresh rate in the glasses (as opposed to 96Hz for normal 2D CS). I can't watch that. It's too flickery for me. I turn Cinema Smooth off, which results in the Motion Judder Canceler (FI) being turned on, despite being set to off in the menu. So you have to go set it to off again in the menu. (known bug) The MJC/FI algorithm seems to really struggle with 3D content providing weird after images at scene changes. I'm okay with 60Hz on the glasses for 3D. I don't really notice the 3:2 cadence judder like I do with 2D content. To me it's the least objectionable setting for watching 3D.

I have noticed ABL is much more apparent in 3D mode as well. I can't speak to ABL with CS on vs. CS off for 3D since on is unwatchable.
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post #13536 of 13560 Old 07-08-2016, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pdjmwj View Post
Think I made a mistake, purchased a demo model 64F8500. Having so many issues that I think I need to return. Love the pic on this TV, love it to death. But, it is not reliable.


When turned off I have to unplug for several minutes, plug back in, and it will then turn back on. HDMI-CEC is flaky when connected to my Sony DN1050. Forces a switch to TV when I want it to stay on SAT connection, that is minor. TV freezes when in menus. Does not respond to remote.


Not sue what to do at this point.


Mine switches to TV when I first turn everything on. I find that if I tell another component ,that's connected to the reciever, to turn on, the. It will go to that input.


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post #13537 of 13560 Old 07-08-2016, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by davelrcenter View Post
Mine switches to TV when I first turn everything on. I find that if I tell another component ,that's connected to the reciever, to turn on, the. It will go to that input.
I have my Harmony Touch set up to pause a second or so, then switch the receiver's input from TV to TiVo as it insists on switching to TV if left to its own devices.

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post #13538 of 13560 Old 07-08-2016, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
CS with 3D gives you a effective 48Hz refresh rate in the glasses (as opposed to 96Hz for normal 2D CS). I can't watch that. It's too flickery for me. I turn Cinema Smooth off, which results in the Motion Judder Canceler (FI) being turned on, despite being set to off in the menu. So you have to go set it to off again in the menu. (known bug) The MJC/FI algorithm seems to really struggle with 3D content providing weird after images at scene changes. I'm okay with 60Hz on the glasses for 3D. I don't really notice the 3:2 cadence judder like I do with 2D content. To me it's the least objectionable setting for watching 3D.

I have noticed ABL is much more apparent in 3D mode as well. I can't speak to ABL with CS on vs. CS off for 3D since on is unwatchable.
I was reading this post and almost assumed that I had written it, since it's my writing style, my observations and my opinions haha.

So yes, I keep CS off with 3D content as well (and as you said, you have to switch the MJC from Off to Standard/Smooth then back to Off). As I said in my next post though, the bad ABL issue was mostly addressed once I went from CAL-DAY/CAL-NIGHT to Movie mode. I can see some changes, but it's not like it was before. It was an actual issue previously. Now it's just a "little thing" that I can look right past.

Thanks for letting me know it was doing 48Hz. Yeah, the flicker itself was bad, but take off the glasses, play your content, and watch the back-and-forth rapid movement that the pixels have. That combined with the flicker is just terrible. In 2D? Not a problem! I love CS enabled with 2D content, ha!
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post #13539 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post
I was reading this post and almost assumed that I had written it, since it's my writing style, my observations and my opinions haha.

So yes, I keep CS off with 3D content as well (and as you said, you have to switch the MJC from Off to Standard/Smooth then back to Off). As I said in my next post though, the bad ABL issue was mostly addressed once I went from CAL-DAY/CAL-NIGHT to Movie mode. I can see some changes, but it's not like it was before. It was an actual issue previously. Now it's just a "little thing" that I can look right past.

Thanks for letting me know it was doing 48Hz. Yeah, the flicker itself was bad, but take off the glasses, play your content, and watch the back-and-forth rapid movement that the pixels have. That combined with the flicker is just terrible. In 2D? Not a problem! I love CS enabled with 2D content, ha!
When watching 3d content I always switched cinema smooth off, although I hate soa, it wasn't so bad and easier on the eyes☺
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post #13540 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 08:49 AM
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Sad day at my house

It was a sad day at my house after a lightning strike hit a tree in my yard and then seemed to have traveled through the irrigation system wiring into my house electrical system. It took out several low voltage items including the HDMI ports on three tv's which includes my PN51F8500.

Insurance will cover this (less the $1000 deductible) but here is my major concern. If I remember right, in 2013 and most of 2014, this tv sold for around $2800. I was very fortunate to be able to get it from Amazon.com in late 2014 for $1000. If my insurance company gives me only $1000 to replace it, there's no way that I'll get a suitable replacement for that price. Some of my other concerns are that this is a 51" tv and I think I'd need to go up to 55" to get a tv that's even close in PQ to the F8500 and I'm not sure if I have room for a 55". I do have replacement insurance coverage so they may allow me to get high-end tv like the Samsung KS9xxx or a LG OLED but either of those would be at least 55".

My other option would be to have the F8500 repaired. Everything seems to work fine on it except the HDMI ports so I'm thinking that it may be a fairly simple repair.

Any thoughts on a suitable replacement or repair of the F8500 would be appreciated.
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post #13541 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 02:34 PM
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Sorry for the trouble you're going through.

Curious....how do you know its the HDMI board?
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post #13542 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 04:41 PM
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That's How I got my 60" 8500, lightning took out two 60" LG's (and all the sat equipment and BD players)
If you have replacement insurance they may give you the extra cost to replace with something similar ?

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post #13543 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 07:08 PM
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Sorry for the trouble you're going through.

Curious....how do you know its the HDMI board?
I don't think I said that it's the HDMI board, just that none of the HDMI ports are working. It would be nice if it were just a single board and an easy repair though.
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post #13544 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 07:09 PM
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That's How I got my 60" 8500, lightning took out two 60" LG's (and all the sat equipment and BD players)
If you have replacement insurance they may give you the extra cost to replace with something similar ?
I do have replacement insurance so there's a chance. What current 55" would you get to replace the F8500?
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post #13545 of 13560 Old 07-10-2016, 07:35 PM
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What to get??
That I can't help with, I have no idea what I would get to replace mine with.
From what I have heard the LG OLED (I think) are about the closest.
I have always been a plasma TV owner, lost when it comes to anything else.


My lightning strike hit the yard and must have come in through the Sat. cables, which were berried in the ground
That's what went on mine also, the HDMI inputs no longer would work.

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post #13546 of 13560 Old 07-11-2016, 09:03 AM
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I don't think I said that it's the HDMI board, just that none of the HDMI ports are working. It would be nice if it were just a single board and an easy repair though.
HDMI ports are on the main board. Easy, problem is finding a replacement.

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post #13547 of 13560 Old 07-12-2016, 07:51 AM
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What to get??
That I can't help with, I have no idea what I would get to replace mine with.
From what I have heard the LG OLED (I think) are about the closest.
I have always been a plasma TV owner, lost when it comes to anything else.


My lightning strike hit the yard and must have come in through the Sat. cables, which were berried in the ground
That's what went on mine also, the HDMI inputs no longer would work.
I have this TV in 65" and also the LG OLED 55EF9500. Got a deal through beach camera, ebay on the OLED since it's the 2015 model. If you can swing it, go with the OLED, it's amazing. The 3D is mesmerizing on that thing. I had bought a bunch of 3d discs to use with this tv but ended up not being that impressed, but with the OLED it is stunning. I put Frozen 3D on for the kids and found that I could not get up to leave, I was sucked in. That's really saying something cause I'm not a huge Frozen fan!
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post #13548 of 13560 Old 07-12-2016, 01:31 PM
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If only Samsung made on OLED these days. I'm used to their software.

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post #13549 of 13560 Old 07-15-2016, 07:55 AM
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So I think I finally found the infamous floating blacks people complain about. I was watching a poorly authored 2.35:1 Blu-ray that had the black levels mangled on the disc. I was playing it back from my HTPC which sends RGB 0-255, so I set the F8500's black levels to low instead of normal which fixed the washed out image, but sure enough I saw the black bars get noticeably bright several times during the movie. I've never seen that with the blacks set to normal or sending the F8500 YCbCr color space.
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post #13550 of 13560 Old 07-15-2016, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
....snip.... I set the F8500's black levels to low instead of normal ....snip....
...huh?....

Are your referring to dark room optimizer?
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post #13551 of 13560 Old 07-15-2016, 11:14 AM
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...huh?....

Are your referring to dark room optimizer?
No the HDMI black level control that's only adjustable when sending a RGB signal to the set. It's in the Picture Options menu.

Last edited by Stereodude; 07-15-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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post #13552 of 13560 Old 07-25-2016, 01:54 PM
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Has anyone tried watching a 4K blu-ray on your F8500? I'm wondering if you can get true 1080p, 4:4:4 out of a 4K blu-ray since it should have enough color information when downscaled. Also, if you have done it, was the difference between the 4:2:0 1080p content and the 4:4:4 1080p downscale noticeable?

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post #13553 of 13560 Old 07-26-2016, 10:23 AM
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Hey so Ive had my 51f8500 for a bit more than a year now and I'm an amateur videophile at best. This set has turned me into a bit of a Blu ray junkie πŸ˜‚. Anyways I'm hoping one of you can tell me whether or not the 8500 properly supports xvYCC input (unless that's just an early name for HDR)? Just because I have a couple of Blu rays that have expanded color. For that Matter would true HDR content have any benefit whatsoever running on this set just because of its inherently high contrast ratio? Any insight on this would be much appreciated
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post #13554 of 13560 Old Today, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandukem View Post
It was a sad day at my house after a lightning strike hit a tree in my yard and then seemed to have traveled through the irrigation system wiring into my house electrical system. It took out several low voltage items including the HDMI ports on three tv's which includes my PN51F8500.

Insurance will cover this (less the $1000 deductible) but here is my major concern. If I remember right, in 2013 and most of 2014, this tv sold for around $2800. I was very fortunate to be able to get it from Amazon.com in late 2014 for $1000. If my insurance company gives me only $1000 to replace it, there's no way that I'll get a suitable replacement for that price. Some of my other concerns are that this is a 51" tv and I think I'd need to go up to 55" to get a tv that's even close in PQ to the F8500 and I'm not sure if I have room for a 55". I do have replacement insurance coverage so they may allow me to get high-end tv like the Samsung KS9xxx or a LG OLED but either of those would be at least 55".

My other option would be to have the F8500 repaired. Everything seems to work fine on it except the HDMI ports so I'm thinking that it may be a fairly simple repair.

Any thoughts on a suitable replacement or repair of the F8500 would be appreciated.
you can replace the main (HDMI) board yourself. I just repaired my PN60F8500. Used boards are available on shopjimmy.com and ebay, and cost about $80. Simply remove the TV back, and check the sticker on the board for the appropriate number and google that, or check shopjimmy.

ISF Calibrator
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post #13555 of 13560 Old Today, 04:27 PM
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My F8500 (60") was damaged too, but it was water damage. I went away for four days and an upstairs leak flooded my office and collapsed the ceiling over my home theater. Never had a leak in the 8 years I've owned my place so turning the water off for a short vacation never even crossed my mind, but I guess now I know better.

The TV appears to function but there's a vertical band (about 8" wide) on the right edge of the TV display that's much darker than the rest of the picture and is constantly flickering. Does that sound like anything that can be repaired? I would guess I'm probably out of luck but I wanted to make sure. I tried to contact Samsung to see if I could pay to have it repaired (if they even have any spare plasma parts anymore) but keep getting unhelpful automated troubleshooting messages.

It is covered under home insurance, but I have no idea what they're going to value it at and my insurance adjuster is moving along at a snail's pace (and is really, really terrible at communicating). I mentioned they no longer make plasmas anymore and she said the way it works is she would find something of "equivalent quality" currently on the market to base its value off of. What that means exactly I'm not sure, especially since picture quality is subjective.

The thing I loved most about plasma was the motion resolution. I don't know how current LCD's compare today because I haven't paid attention to the market since 2014, but when I got my first Panny plasma I couldn't see myself going back. So when they announced the end of plasmas I bought the F8500 with the intention of keeping it as long as possible. I guess that wound up not being very long.
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post #13556 of 13560 Old Today, 05:51 PM
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Hey so Ive had my 51f8500 for a bit more than a year now and I'm an amateur videophile at best. This set has turned me into a bit of a Blu ray junkie πŸ˜‚. Anyways I'm hoping one of you can tell me whether or not the 8500 properly supports xvYCC input (unless that's just an early name for HDR)? Just because I have a couple of Blu rays that have expanded color. For that Matter would true HDR content have any benefit whatsoever running on this set just because of its inherently high contrast ratio? Any insight on this would be much appreciated
afaik, no this set does not support xvycc. i think that was primarily a sony thing. as for hdr, you can hook up a k8500 or the ub900 (when it comes out). you obviously wont get 4k picture from a hdr source (since they go hand in hand), but both players supposedly have a form of tone mapping. from what I gather the panasonic is more customizable in this way, so is probably going to be the better unit.
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Has anyone tried watching a 4K blu-ray on your F8500? I'm wondering if you can get true 1080p, 4:4:4 out of a 4K blu-ray since it should have enough color information when downscaled. Also, if you have done it, was the difference between the 4:2:0 1080p content and the 4:4:4 1080p downscale noticeable?
in theory, as long as the chroma 444 upscaling is done before the image downscaling, than maybe it will look better? the problem though is alot of standalones dont do this. so if your player is downscaling to a 1080p display, its probably also downscaling the chroma by 4, then upscaling to 444 if you choose to do so (so 4k 420 is 1920x1080 chroma. so it downscales to 480x270, then upscales to 444 from there). the only way I know to guarantee chroma matching the display from the source is madvr, but so far there is no way to play a uhd bd on a pc. I have tried some hdr demo files, and it looks alright. its not very stable yet though.
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post #13558 of 13560 Unread Today, 06:40 PM
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My F8500 (60") was damaged too, but it was water damage. I went away for four days and an upstairs leak flooded my office and collapsed the ceiling over my home theater. Never had a leak in the 8 years I've owned my place so turning the water off for a short vacation never even crossed my mind, but I guess now I know better.

The TV appears to function but there's a vertical band (about 8" wide) on the right edge of the TV display that's much darker than the rest of the picture and is constantly flickering. Does that sound like anything that can be repaired? I would guess I'm probably out of luck but I wanted to make sure. I tried to contact Samsung to see if I could pay to have it repaired (if they even have any spare plasma parts anymore) but keep getting unhelpful automated troubleshooting messages.

It is covered under home insurance, but I have no idea what they're going to value it at and my insurance adjuster is moving along at a snail's pace (and is really, really terrible at communicating). I mentioned they no longer make plasmas anymore and she said the way it works is she would find something of "equivalent quality" currently on the market to base its value off of. What that means exactly I'm not sure, especially since picture quality is subjective.

The thing I loved most about plasma was the motion resolution. I don't know how current LCD's compare today because I haven't paid attention to the market since 2014, but when I got my first Panny plasma I couldn't see myself going back. So when they announced the end of plasmas I bought the F8500 with the intention of keeping it as long as possible. I guess that wound up not being very long.
You probably need a new panel. How long did the set dry out before you powered it back on?
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You probably need a new panel. How long did the set dry out before you powered it back on?
Well, I was concerned about it drying out. I waited three days (after the leak was discovered and shut off) but then the insurance adjuster came out and insisted we turn it on and test it. It was still very humid though because the damage mitigation people hadn't gotten out there yet with the fans etc. and the floor/walls were still wet.
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post #13560 of 13560 Unread Today, 09:57 PM
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My F8500 (60") was damaged too, but it was water damage. I went away for four days and an upstairs leak flooded my office and collapsed the ceiling over my home theater. Never had a leak in the 8 years I've owned my place so turning the water off for a short vacation never even crossed my mind, but I guess now I know better.

The TV appears to function but there's a vertical band (about 8" wide) on the right edge of the TV display that's much darker than the rest of the picture and is constantly flickering. Does that sound like anything that can be repaired? I would guess I'm probably out of luck but I wanted to make sure. I tried to contact Samsung to see if I could pay to have it repaired (if they even have any spare plasma parts anymore) but keep getting unhelpful automated troubleshooting messages.

It is covered under home insurance, but I have no idea what they're going to value it at and my insurance adjuster is moving along at a snail's pace (and is really, really terrible at communicating). I mentioned they no longer make plasmas anymore and she said the way it works is she would find something of "equivalent quality" currently on the market to base its value off of. What that means exactly I'm not sure, especially since picture quality is subjective.

The thing I loved most about plasma was the motion resolution. I don't know how current LCD's compare today because I haven't paid attention to the market since 2014, but when I got my first Panny plasma I couldn't see myself going back. So when they announced the end of plasmas I bought the F8500 with the intention of keeping it as long as possible. I guess that wound up not being very long.
Sorry to hear about it.

I'm a plasma guy too (64F8500 and Panny 65VT50) and think that for my kind of viewing I'd like to stick with them as long as I can.
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Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn60f8500 60 Inch 1080p 600hz 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn64f8500 64 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv

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