Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 469 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14041 of 14062 Old 07-17-2017, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
You should only upgrade if you want to have the best and most capable TV in the world. If money is not a concern keep the F8500 and put it in another room. I'd say its worth a grand.
Man, if I could get 1k for my 60f8500 id probably take it. I have an oled on the way and have to decide to keep our 55" lcd in the bonus room or swap. Might sell the plasma and keep the lcd since the kids use it mostly and it would probably have burn in from disney infinity in a week.
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post #14042 of 14062 Old 07-17-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bogdan_0 View Post
Hello,

I have a TV from US (PN51F8500). I have investigated to change the boards to make it an european TV (I live in Europe) and get the CI+ slot. I will change the main board which has CI slot and hopefully also firmware and video standard for Europe.
I have verified that the following boards are the same between PN51F8500 and PS51F8500:
- Y-main: LJ41-10341A LJ92-01968A
- X-main: LJ41-10340A LJ92-01967A
- power supply: BN44-00619A
- y-buffer: LJ41-10339A / LJ92-01966A

1. Has anybody tried something like this?
2. I would your help to verify the rest of the boards: x-buffer and if I am missing something else and of course the panel. Can someone help me with the codes from remaining boards? and panel of PS51F8500? Also the code of panel for PN51F8500?
Thank you.
I would assume since the TV already supports the various EU timings with the US board, swapping the main to a EU board SHOULD do the trick. But I would probably still swap the power board if you are going to a region with 50hz 220v since the power board in the US should be 60hz 110v or else you will need to buy a step down converter with frequency adjustment.

DISCLOSURE: I have never heard of someone doing this, so I'm just making assumptions based on logic.

Home Theater: Samsung PN51F8500|Samsung TW-J5500|Panasonic DMP-UB900|Custom W10 HTPC running MPC-BE w/ LAV+madVR|Panamax M5400-PM|URC MX990 (WIP)

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post #14043 of 14062 Old 07-18-2017, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by zaockle View Post
I would assume since the TV already supports the various EU timings with the US board, swapping the main to a EU board SHOULD do the trick. But I would probably still swap the power board if you are going to a region with 50hz 220v since the power board in the US should be 60hz 110v or else you will need to buy a step down converter with frequency adjustment.

DISCLOSURE: I have never heard of someone doing this, so I'm just making assumptions based on logic.
I ordered the mainboard from ebay UK.
The power is not necessary to change as actually on the power board it is written to fit 110-220V.
This part with the power board tricked the possibility in my head.
In 10 days I will see if it works.
If is does it will open the possibility to find easier other spare parts between US and EU models.
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post #14044 of 14062 Old 07-18-2017, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bogdan_0 View Post
I ordered the mainboard from ebay UK.
The power is not necessary to change as actually on the power board it is written to fit 110-220V.
This part with the power board tricked the possibility in my head.
In 10 days I will see if it works.
If is does it will open the possibility to find easier other spare parts between US and EU models.
are you sure about the power board? because I just looked at my PN51F8500 Version UW01 and the power board rating says 110v-120v 50/60Hz. So you won't need frequency adjustment, but you still need to deal with the voltage change. If you plug a board designed for 110-120v into a 220-240v outlet, you are going to fry the the thing.

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post #14045 of 14062 Old 07-19-2017, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by zaockle View Post
are you sure about the power board? because I just looked at my PN51F8500 Version UW01 and the power board rating says 110v-120v 50/60Hz. So you won't need frequency adjustment, but you still need to deal with the voltage change. If you plug a board designed for 110-120v into a 220-240v outlet, you are going to fry the the thing.
Thank you noticing that to me!
In last year I have used this TV with transformer from 220->110.
It is quite heavy for me to take down by myself from the wall to make the check now and I will continue to have it as a back-up solution.
Next week when I open the TV for main-board change I will ask the technician to double check the power supply beside writings and if any uncertainty I will keep the transformer.
The 2 power-board that I found in Europe "BN44-00619A" were written 110-220V.
Main aspect is to see that the main-bord will be compatible with all other existing boards.
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post #14046 of 14062 Old 07-22-2017, 11:03 AM
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So I had all 3 of my sets calibrated by D-Nice on Wednesday. What an awesome experience. He was extremely nice, helpful, professional, good at explaining what was going on and good conversation about tech in general. I ended up having some concerns about weird things I was seeing (I have my 2 51s right next to each other on identical stands) between the two sets last night when I was comparing them. I sent D an email with pictures and descriptions; he called me (literally) within 2-3 mins of receiving the email. We talked about what I was seeing and we went through different things. Boom, 1 hour from the time I sent the email and the "problem" was fixed.

His reputation certainly precedes him and I understand why so many people on here think so highly of him (you do get that by reading the content of his posts and what others say about him to an extent, but there's no substitute for a first-hand experience). I have an interest in learning how to calibrate and he was helpful in talking about different aspects (whether to take ISF class, what entry-level equipment I should buy, etc).

All around 10/10 experience. If I need a calibrator in the future, he will no doubt be my choice.

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post #14047 of 14062 Old 07-22-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by sickkent View Post
So I had all 3 of my sets calibrated by D-Nice on Wednesday. What an awesome experience. He was extremely nice, helpful, professional, good at explaining what was going on and good conversation about tech in general. I ended up having some concerns about weird things I was seeing (I have my 2 51s right next to each other on identical stands) between the two sets last night when I was comparing them. I sent D an email with pictures and descriptions; he called me (literally) within 2-3 mins of receiving the email. We talked about what I was seeing and we went through different things. Boom, 1 hour from the time I sent the email and the "problem" was fixed.

His reputation certainly precedes him and I understand why so many people on here think so highly of him (you do get that by reading the content of his posts and what others say about him to an extent, but there's no substitute for a first-hand experience). I have an interest in learning how to calibrate and he was helpful in talking about different aspects (whether to take ISF class, what entry-level equipment I should buy, etc).

All around 10/10 experience. If I need a calibrator in the future, he will no doubt be my choice.
D-Nice cal'd my latest display following a 100 hr. burn-in at the dealer (Value Electronics). The results were excellent.

On my first plasma, back in '08, Jeff Meier calibrated my old '650' and also did a splendid job. As that one was done in my home, I was able to learn a lot about calibration from Jeff as he did his thing. I learned quite a bit about speaker placement and room treatments during our discussions as well. I would highly recommend either gentleman for their work, knowledge and professionalism.

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post #14048 of 14062 Old 07-22-2017, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sickkent View Post
So I had all 3 of my sets calibrated by D-Nice on Wednesday. What an awesome experience. He was extremely nice, helpful, professional, good at explaining what was going on and good conversation about tech in general. I ended up having some concerns about weird things I was seeing (I have my 2 51s right next to each other on identical stands) between the two sets last night when I was comparing them. I sent D an email with pictures and descriptions; he called me (literally) within 2-3 mins of receiving the email. We talked about what I was seeing and we went through different things. Boom, 1 hour from the time I sent the email and the "problem" was fixed.

His reputation certainly precedes him and I understand why so many people on here think so highly of him (you do get that by reading the content of his posts and what others say about him to an extent, but there's no substitute for a first-hand experience). I have an interest in learning how to calibrate and he was helpful in talking about different aspects (whether to take ISF class, what entry-level equipment I should buy, etc).

All around 10/10 experience. If I need a calibrator in the future, he will no doubt be my choice.
Awesome! Learning to calibrate is a lifelong skill that few have. Even at the amateur level you can achieve excellent results.
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post #14049 of 14062 Old 07-27-2017, 05:09 PM
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Intermittent problem with pattern of vertical bars across image; purple tinted whites

Hi folks, I have a conundrum. My PN64F8500 is malfunctioning and I'm hoping to get some hints about what's wrong before I bring in a repair person.
Please see the attached image for reference. The problem does not always occur and it is difficult to predict when it will happen, but it may be more frequent during warm weather (I'm not completely sure about that though).
What happens is this:
  • The entire screen becomes somewhat dimmer than normal.
  • The image becomes altered by a pattern of stationary fuzzy-edged vertical bars visible across the entire image, in a washboard pattern. The vertical distortion consists of slightly lighter vs. darker "bars" on the image, in a precise pattern across the whole image. These bars are subtle and have blurry edges and are not part of the normal image when my screen is behaving as it should (i.e, this is not just a uniformity issue).
  • The colors become somewhat "rosy" and off, which is the most problematic aspect. Specifically: some shades of white become rosy or purple in hue.
  • Some parts of the image seem to pulsate or flicker, at a regular rate (the pulsation is about 5 times per second).

The problem tends to start after the TV has been on for a while (10 or 20 minutes), but sometimes, it's there right from the get go. Strangely, sometimes I notice that the problem has gone away by itself an hour or two of use. The malfunction is always either on or off -- there is no in-between.

Any clue as to what's going on? Most of the things I've found about this TV malfunctioning are related to bad capacitors, and I haven't found anything like this. I've seen a few posts about problems with the Control Board (T-CON?) or the LVDS cable on non-plasma sets, that look kind of similar to this.
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post #14050 of 14062 Old 08-02-2017, 07:37 AM
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Regarding the change of motherboard from US to Europe

I have made the switch of mainboard but the TV is red power blinking 6 times after connecting the power cord. I have asked Samsung support but no answer yet.

The technician checked the specs of power board that proved to be dual voltage. On the back of TV it is said 110V but on the power board is written dual voltage.
Now the TV with old board is functioning perfectly at 220V.

Hopefully they will find a solution but I am not convinced by Samsung willingness to find a solution.

Does anyone has the service manual for this TV (PN/PSXXF8500) ?
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post #14051 of 14062 Old 08-02-2017, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bogdan_0 View Post
...Does anyone has the service manual for this TV (PN/PSXXF8500) ?
iirc, a recent post on one of the F8500 threads claims the service manual is available for sale from Samsung.
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post #14052 of 14062 Old 08-02-2017, 02:34 PM
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Hopefully they will find a solution but I am not convinced by Samsung willingness to find a solution.
I would be absolutely surprised if Samsung even gives you a real answer. They have proven time and again that they don't care about any of their products that are discontinued. Plenty of people have called for service outside warranty only to be given some kind of "deal" on a new product instead of a fix. Even if the product is completely fixable.

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post #14053 of 14062 Old 08-11-2017, 11:12 AM
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Long live plasma! I hope my F8500 never dies. Still looks as good today as it did 4 years ago.

I need to add a soundbar. Need help here — to my understanding, this panel will not pass multi-channel audio through optical, correct? (Only if coming from the TV’s built-in sources.) I get my content from 3 sources: DirecTV, AppleTV, and an Oppo BDP-103. If I want to get a soundbar with built-in surround features, would I need to connect each source directly to the soundbar? If so, that means I need one with at least 3 HDMI inputs. And there are some choices, but not a lot. The latest Samsung soundbars (HW-MS650 and 750, or HW-K850) all look good, but they only have 1 or 2 inputs. The Sony HT-NT5 has 3 HDMI inputs, but from what I’ve read the audio quality isn’t as amazeballs as the latest Samsung offerings.

Let me know if I’m wrong with my assumptions above. Thanks!
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post #14054 of 14062 Old 08-11-2017, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by peekytoe View Post
Long live plasma! I hope my F8500 never dies. Still looks as good today as it did 4 years ago.

I need to add a soundbar. Need help here — to my understanding, this panel will not pass multi-channel audio through optical, correct? (Only if coming from the TV’s built-in sources.) I get my content from 3 sources: DirecTV, AppleTV, and an Oppo BDP-103. If I want to get a soundbar with built-in surround features, would I need to connect each source directly to the soundbar? If so, that means I need one with at least 3 HDMI inputs. And there are some choices, but not a lot. The latest Samsung soundbars (HW-MS650 and 750, or HW-K850) all look good, but they only have 1 or 2 inputs. The Sony HT-NT5 has 3 HDMI inputs, but from what I’ve read the audio quality isn’t as amazeballs as the latest Samsung offerings.

Let me know if I’m wrong with my assumptions above. Thanks!
You can also get a HDMI switch with spdif optical out. I have a 5x1 from jtech. Connect your HDMI stuff to it, one out to TV, optical out to soundbar. You wouldn't be able to get sound from TV built in apps, but you have an Apple TV so you should be using that.
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post #14055 of 14062 Old 08-15-2017, 07:39 AM
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Is there any way to easily control switching the HDMI level from normal to low? The new cable DVR I got yesterday after my old one died only outputs RGB 16-235. The old one did YCbCr. All my video sources go through my receiver into one HDMI input on the TV and they are either YCbCr:4:2:2 or RGB 0-255.

It seems there are no discrete IR codes to select that. So I guess that limits me to some sort of macro that has to reliably navigate the menus and select it.
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post #14056 of 14062 Old 08-15-2017, 08:36 PM
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Is there any way to easily control switching the HDMI level from normal to low? The new cable DVR I got yesterday after my old one died only outputs RGB 16-235. The old one did YCbCr. All my video sources go through my receiver into one HDMI input on the TV and they are either YCbCr:4:2:2 or RGB 0-255.

It seems there are no discrete IR codes to select that. So I guess that limits me to some sort of macro that has to reliably navigate the menus and select it.
wtf, that's a wacky ass dvr. what's the model if you don't mind me asking?

there is no way I am aware of to easily switch that. you are gonna have to either create a macro or get used to it. or get your cable provider to provide you with not that box.

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post #14057 of 14062 Old 08-16-2017, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by zaockle View Post
wtf, that's a wacky ass dvr. what's the model if you don't mind me asking?
Motorola (ARRIS) DCX3510-M
Quote:
there is no way I am aware of to easily switch that. you are gonna have to either create a macro or get used to it. or get your cable provider to provide you with not that box.
There's another way or two around it, but it involves extra hardware. Like using a HDMI splitter to route the signal from the receiver to two different inputs on the TV and having each of those two inputs each set to a different HDMI level.

Or, running the DVR directly to a different HDMI input on the TV and using optical to the receiver.

However, I plan to use a 3D LUT box from eeColor so that rules out the latter. I also want 3D playback which the eeColor 3D LUT box can't pass so I will probably have to use 3 inputs on the TV, a HDMI splitter after the eeColor 3D LUT box and the 2nd HDMI output from my Denon.

Last edited by Stereodude; 08-16-2017 at 06:42 AM.
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post #14058 of 14062 Old 08-16-2017, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by zaockle View Post
I would assume since the TV already supports the various EU timings with the US board, swapping the main to a EU board SHOULD do the trick. But I would probably still swap the power board if you are going to a region with 50hz 220v since the power board in the US should be 60hz 110v or else you will need to buy a step down converter with frequency adjustment.

DISCLOSURE: I have never heard of someone doing this, so I'm just making assumptions based on logic.
Successful replacement with an European board on US plasma TV PN51F8500AFXZA without any TV service intervention for physical replacement.
Old TV main board: BN41-01998A; BN94-06205A
New TV main board: BN41-02044A; BN94-06205M
Now TV recognizes the CI+card and the European TV channels.

Steps done at home:
1. I have tried the model BN41-02044A; BN94-06205L; it did not worked; the power led has blinked 6 times and remained off
2. I have tested the model: BN41-02044A; BN94-06205M; it work directly without even enter the service menu; steps: remove the power cord; press and keep pressed 5sec the power button on the back to finish any small energy left; remove the back-cover; disconnect the 6 cable connectors; replace the board; reconnect the connectors; ... to finalize I have made holes in the back metallic panel for CI card (with attention to eliminate all metallic dust from back panel before re-attaching back to the TV)

Note: Power board in this TV model is dual voltage 110 and 220V (verify text on your power board before any changes of voltage; on the back of TV was written 110V but on the power board after removing the back panel on the board is written 100-240V). Beside if you look for power board code you will find it is the same for plasma TV 51 US and plasma TV Europe.
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post #14059 of 14062 Old 08-25-2017, 10:43 PM
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Do you all think it's a good idea to take the back panel off of my F8500s and clean the dust out periodically? I know keeping electronics dust free is desirable, but I didn't know if there was something I was not aware about in terms of panel fragility by taking off/putting back on the back cover.

If so, what do you all use?

Samsung 64F8500| OPPO 93| Amazon Fire TV
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post #14060 of 14062 Old 08-26-2017, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sickkent View Post
Do you all think it's a good idea to take the back panel off of my F8500s and clean the dust out periodically? I know keeping electronics dust free is desirable, but I didn't know if there was something I was not aware about in terms of panel fragility by taking off/putting back on the back cover.

If so, what do you all use?
If you are very careful it is not hard to do. Just use a light air spray to dust. Is it really necessary? I don't really think so. I think in some ways analog CRT sets were more susceptible to problems due to dust because of all the discrete wiring. I had a Sony 36" Wega that was still performing quite well when we donated it some 15 years later with no servicing.
In contrast, modern displays have modular digital circuitry with a fair amount of protective coating on circuit boards, etc.

Personally, like the display screen, I think it's best to leave well enough alone unless it really needs cleaning.

Every time you move a display to a place to work on it, and then take off the back you are creating more opportunity for damage, even with the best intentions.
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post #14061 of 14062 Old 09-11-2017, 06:39 PM
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Long live plasma! I hope my F8500 never dies. Still looks as good today as it did 4 years ago.


I agree, I'm very happy with our F8500 as well. BTW, there is a new update version 1217. I don't know what it does though.
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post #14062 of 14062 Old 09-12-2017, 06:26 AM
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I agree, I'm very happy with our F8500 as well. BTW, there is a new update version 1217. I don't know what it does though.
I'm still enjoying my F8500 (Australia) going on 4 years now .

I'm a bit out of touch with firmware updates though - our last update was v1128 back in January, I've seen 1215 and 1217 firmware mentioned here - can I download from other Samsung International websites eg. US, and apply that firmware to my Aus TV without any issues?
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Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn60f8500 60 Inch 1080p 600hz 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv , Samsung Pn64f8500 64 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv

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