Samsung PN60F5300 calibration settings? - Page 11 - AVS Forum
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post #301 of 410 Old 07-08-2014, 08:17 AM
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Yeah I have cell at 20 and contrast at 84 -- 35 ftL at 100%. I have read specifically that you should not turn down cell light iirc.
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post #302 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
How about reducing the 2-point white balance gains (be aware that some sets have the gain and offset controls backwards ).
That will lower the entire bright end to a comfortable level.
I actually have cell light at 20 and contrast at 95, and it's fine for browsing (from eight feet away, anyway).
Output at 100% is 40 ftL.
Michael
Does yours buzz at those settings on white web pages? Mine does much worse than my Panasonic did, it's really ear piercing. The higher the contrast the louder the buzzing, regardless of cell light setting.

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Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post
Yeah I have cell at 20 and contrast at 84 -- 35 ftL at 100%. I have read specifically that you should not turn down cell light iirc.
I'm curious, if you have a meter can you tell me what contrast setting gives off 30fL at default Cinema Warm2?

Last edited by StinDaWg; 07-09-2014 at 04:04 AM.
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post #303 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post
Does yours buzz at those settings on white web pages? Mine does much worse than my Panasonic did, it's really ear piercing. The higher the contrast the louder the buzzing, regardless of cell light setting.


I'm curious, if you have a meter can you tell me what contrast setting gives off 30fL at default Cinema Warm2?
Mine buzzes much more loudly than I would like as well, fwiw. I can't give you that exact number because I have calibrated my set and would have to reset it completely to get the number you are looking for. If you just want something that isn't too bright, adjust it until you like the way it looks!
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post #304 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 07:13 AM
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Does anyone have a Roku 2 XS hooked up to this set? I'm streaming the AVSHD black clipping vid through it and cannot for the life of me get BTB to pass through to my TV.
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post #305 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Welcome to AVS, which will either help you enjoy your set immensely or drive you nuts. Or both.
You may be more interested in this thread, though there will be many similarities:
Samsung PN51F5300 – What a little gem! - i1Pro Calibration results inside
There are variations even between panels of the same line, so someone else's settings may be better, or not. You will at least want to run the THX maximizer available on many BDs just to get the basic settings right.
The "B" series is a newer model. There are firmware updates available for the "A" series, so you will want to get them.
Enjoy your new set!
Thanks, I hope to. I just hope I have better luck than I did with the last one. I can't wait until it's safe/ready for PS4! Thanks for the reply I'm just checking back now as I decided to have the set delivered. Ok came today and the packing slip says: Model#PN51F5300B. lol So, does that mean it's a B version? So does that mean the settings at the beginning of the thread are my starting point? I'm just looking for solid good looking settings to use now. I'm going to run a break in DVD and go light on her until I'm around 150-200 hrs, then I was going to buy (or maybe torrent) this "Disney WOW" disc I keep hearing about. But in the meantime, should I use will7046's settings?
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post #306 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post
Does yours buzz at those settings on white web pages? Mine does much worse than my Panasonic did, it's really ear piercing. The higher the contrast the louder the buzzing, regardless of cell light setting.

I'm curious, if you have a meter can you tell me what contrast setting gives off 30fL at default Cinema Warm2?
If I'm standing right next to it, I can hear a buzzing. This has been mentioned on other Samsung plasma threads. Someone suggested pushing in very gently on the top back of the set which, apparently, helped in his situation. I would be careful about doing anything, but mine is certainly not "ear piercing."

I can tell you my readings at 100% = 40.5 ftL, 90% = 31.7 ftL, 80% = 24.1 ftL.
Hope that helps.
Michael

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post #307 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-C View Post
Ok came today and the packing slip says: Model#PN51F5300B. lol So, does that mean it's a B version? So does that mean the settings at the beginning of the thread are my starting point? I'm just looking for solid good looking settings to use now. I'm going to run a break in DVD and go light on her until I'm around 150-200 hrs, then I was going to buy (or maybe torrent) this "Disney WOW" disc I keep hearing about. But in the meantime, should I use will7046's settings?
Yes, it's a model B, so there are no firmware updates yet.
Try Warm2 and gamma -1.
Running a "break-in" DVD and "going light on her" are a contradiction in terms. Don't do anything special, just try to watch mostly full-screen material (i.e., no gray bars top/bottom or sides) and keep the contrast at 90 or less.
The "WOW" disc is just for calibration. The "bonus" disc is just a collection of (IMHO) extremely boring scenery, so I suggest you don't bother. If you have a BD with THX maximizer, that will do fine.
Have fun with your new set.
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post #308 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 08:49 PM
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Does movie mode look washed out on all these sets?

Last edited by leonkennedy; 07-09-2014 at 08:55 PM.
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post #309 of 410 Old 07-09-2014, 09:32 PM
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What is the best route to calibrate my 60F5300 for 24p? I currently have a blu ray player and a HTPC to playback 24p content. I am also using the AVSHD disc for images.
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post #310 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
If I'm standing right next to it, I can hear a buzzing. This has been mentioned on other Samsung plasma threads. Someone suggested pushing in very gently on the top back of the set which, apparently, helped in his situation. I would be careful about doing anything, but mine is certainly not "ear piercing."
I don't think that will really do anything. I can hear buzzing specifically from all 4 corners of the set and the back middle. It seems the whole panel buzzes rather than just the power supply. It is ear piercing at 95 contrast on a full white screen, at 80 it's only "annoying". Of course just watching regular programming with the tv volume on I don't notice much of anything. I suppose most people aren't using these as a HTPC to browse the web so they would probably never notice. I can see where 4K would come in handy on my next set for that kind of usage. 4K OLED that is.

I also think it somewhat has to do with them removing the outer pane of glass on these newer models. My old Panasonic has 2 panes of glass on the outside. One effect it has is it helps quiet panel buzzing. Of course, the Samsung looks much clearer because their is no gap between the panel and glass itself, and you don't get the halo effect on text when viewed from extreme side angles.
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post #311 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonkennedy View Post
Does movie mode look washed out on all these sets?
No.

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http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #312 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makaveli6103 View Post
What is the best route to calibrate my 60F5300 for 24p? I currently have a blu ray player and a HTPC to playback 24p content. I am also using the AVSHD disc for images.
A meter and software. A commercial package such as CalMan or a meter (http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-...-1&keywords=i1) and free software (HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software).
The disc you have is perfect.

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post #313 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 11:00 AM
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So I just picked up a used i1 Display 2 to test it against my Spider 3 and wow. There is a huge difference. Which one should I trust? The settings I changed are - Picture Mode: Movie, Sharpness: 0, Dynamic contrast: off, black tone: off, Gamma: -1, Color space: Auto, Color Tone: Warm 2, Digital Clean View: Off, MPEG Noise Filter: Off, Black Optimizer: Off. Everything else is the default for Movie Picture mode.

In the photos the i1 is the one with the large dE and spyder is the better one.
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File Type: png spyder.PNG (18.6 KB, 10 views)
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post #314 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makaveli6103 View Post
So I just picked up a used i1 Display 2 to test it against my Spider 3 and wow. There is a huge difference. Which one should I trust? The settings I changed are - Picture Mode: Movie, Sharpness: 0, Dynamic contrast: off, black tone: off, Gamma: -1, Color space: Auto, Color Tone: Warm 2, Digital Clean View: Off, MPEG Noise Filter: Off, Black Optimizer: Off. Everything else is the default for Movie Picture mode.

In the photos the i1 is the one with the large dE and spyder is the better one.
iirc the i1 *2* will drift over time while the i1 *3* is more stable. So chances are good that your i1 has drifted. My set was remarkably close out of the box with the same mods you made, except gamma set to 0.
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post #315 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makaveli6103 View Post
So I just picked up a used i1 Display 2 to test it against my Spider 3 and wow. There is a huge difference. Which one should I trust?
Chinese proverb: Man with one watch always knows what time it is. Man with two watches is never sure.

Even though the Spyder has a reputation for poor quality control, I think it would be really way off if something were amiss with it. It is likely the old i1 that is no longer accurate.

But you won't really know.

How does the picture look?

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post #316 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Chinese proverb: Man with one watch always knows what time it is. Man with two watches is never sure.

Even though the Spyder has a reputation for poor quality control, I think it would be really way off if something were amiss with it. It is likely the old i1 that is no longer accurate.

But you won't really know.

How does the picture look?
Picture looks great. I plugged in the same numbers from the 2nd post in this thread and the i1 is still off. I also came to the conclusion that the i1 is no longer accurate also.
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post #317 of 410 Old 07-10-2014, 12:56 PM
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But you may still be able to "calibrate" the i1 to the "reference" Spyder:
http://avforum.no/forum/attachments/...tion_files.pdf
The calibration file should then make the i1 as accurate as the Spyder, so you may be able to pass it along and cut your losses (and help someone else out in the process).

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post #318 of 410 Old 07-12-2014, 12:17 PM
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Ugh, just picked up my PN60F5300 (B model) from Sears and got it setup at home, only to find a major red tint issue. The left, right and bottom of screen show a pretty major red push, and a 50% gray screen looks really terrible. Viewing my Gmail window on the TV is weird with the lower quarter of the screen having a pinkish color instead of showing grey. Really bummed about this as I really like the TV otherwise and it looks great in my living room.

I'll see if I can exchange for another model, though I'm not looking forward to packing the TV up and transporting back to Sears.
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post #319 of 410 Old 07-12-2014, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Ugh, just picked up my PN60F5300 (B model) from Sears and got it setup at home, only to find a major red tint issue. The left, right and bottom of screen show a pretty major red push, and a 50% gray screen looks really terrible. Viewing my Gmail window on the TV is weird with the lower quarter of the screen having a pinkish color instead of showing grey. Really bummed about this as I really like the TV otherwise and it looks great in my living room.

I'll see if I can exchange for another model, though I'm not looking forward to packing the TV up and transporting back to Sears.
Man, I am starting to get really worried about the 60 inch F5300's and the color push on the lower part of the screen! It seems to be reported less frequently with the 51 and 64 inch version ... but the 51 is too small (for my situation) and the 64 is double the price!

It seems like a fairly prominent issue unfortunately. Maybe I can get lucky...
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post #320 of 410 Old 07-12-2014, 02:08 PM
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Man, I am starting to get really worried about the 60 inch F5300's and the color push on the lower part of the screen! It seems to be reported less frequently with the 51 and 64 inch version ... but the 51 is too small (for my situation) and the 64 is double the price!

It seems like a fairly prominent issue unfortunately. Maybe I can get lucky...
Yep, I was hoping to get lucky as well and I'm in the same situation as you. 51 inch is too small and the 64" is too expensive. Sears won't have another TV till next week so I'm stuck with this one for now. If the next one still has the issue I'll probably just get a refund and stick with my 42" panny and wait a few years till OLED TV prices come down.

I'm not very impressed with the uniformity of this budget Samsung Plasma when comparing against my budget Panny TC-P42C1 which looks perfect in terms of color uniformity.
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post #321 of 410 Old 07-12-2014, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Ugh, just picked up my PN60F5300 (B model) from Sears and got it setup at home, only to find a major red tint issue. The left, right and bottom of screen show a pretty major red push, and a 50% gray screen looks really terrible. Viewing my Gmail window on the TV is weird with the lower quarter of the screen having a pinkish color instead of showing grey. Really bummed about this as I really like the TV otherwise and it looks great in my living room.

I'll see if I can exchange for another model, though I'm not looking forward to packing the TV up and transporting back to Sears.
Let me know what they say. I also bought the 60F5300 from Sears online and had it delivered for free, although my invoice says this item is not eligible for return (not sure what that's about). I have the pink push at the bottom and right and I also notice uniformity issues along the screen, looks like vertical banding (aka dirty screen effect I believe).

Here is a picture of my set.

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post #322 of 410 Old 07-13-2014, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will7046 View Post

Disney WOW is great too, I also have this disc, it really is great for setting basic settings (Color, Contrast, Brightness, etc.)

Advanced settings (Gamma, White Balance, Color Management Systems) really can't be adjusted correctly without the benefit of a meter and software.
Will, after proper calibration, if you view Gamma test charts (such as the one on the Disney WOW disc, does the bar that matches your TV Gamma actually match 2.2? Currently I get a Gamma of 1.5! It doesn't seem like my gamma is that off, but I guess it is possible. I'd be curious what Gamma you end up with visually after calibrating with your colorimeter and Color HCFR
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post #323 of 410 Old 07-13-2014, 10:10 PM
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What do you guys do for stuff like Blu-rays with wider than 16:9 content? Do you run Screen Fit or 16:9 for picture mode? The slight zoom when I keep things on 16:9 is kinda annoying but I like the pixel shifting that occurs when it's enabled.

Decisions, decisions...
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post #324 of 410 Old 07-13-2014, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerPC View Post
What do you guys do for stuff like Blu-rays with wider than 16:9 content? Do you run Screen Fit or 16:9 for picture mode? The slight zoom when I keep things on 16:9 is kinda annoying but I like the pixel shifting that occurs when it's enabled.

Decisions, decisions...
Screen fit for everything, pixel shift off. If you watch different content there's no reason to fear burn in.
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post #325 of 410 Old 07-13-2014, 11:27 PM
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I actually think my screen is getting pinker by the day. When I first got it 2 weeks ago I only noticed it on the bottom and right, now most of the left portion of the screen has a pink tint to it as well.

I really think there is something wrong with these 60" pentile panels.
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post #326 of 410 Old 07-13-2014, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post
I actually think my screen is getting pinker by the day. When I first got it 2 weeks ago I only noticed it on the bottom and right, now most of the left portion of the screen has a pink tint to it as well.

I really think there is something wrong with these 60" pentile panels.
Have you tried contacting Sears to exchange it? I highly doubt that they won't exchange it if you claim it is defective and as long as you bought a new TV through their website.
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post #327 of 410 Old 07-14-2014, 03:51 AM
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Have you tried contacting Sears to exchange it? I highly doubt that they won't exchange it if you claim it is defective and as long as you bought a new TV through their website.
Not yet, am going to this week.
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post #328 of 410 Old 07-14-2014, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Will, after proper calibration, if you view Gamma test charts (such as the one on the Disney WOW disc, does the bar that matches your TV Gamma actually match 2.2? Currently I get a Gamma of 1.5! It doesn't seem like my gamma is that off, but I guess it is possible. I'd be curious what Gamma you end up with visually after calibrating with your colorimeter and Color HCFR
1.5 gamma!?

Your gamma should not be so far off!

I'm assuming you have contrast and brightness set properly via WOW?
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post #329 of 410 Old 07-14-2014, 05:55 AM
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will7046 settings not working on B-series?

Quote:
Originally Posted by leonkennedy View Post
Does movie mode look washed out on all these sets?
I agree. I bought the Samsung PN60F5300 B series from sears.com last week. I used the Movie Mode settings specified by will7046 in his original post that everyone seems to be raving about, however, on my set, the colors look extremely washed out and everything looks a little too bright (like the blacks don't really look all that black, which plasmas are supposed to do well). I don't know if I've been spoiled because I'm used to my Panasonic ST50 plasma and this TV is even more of a budget plasma, but quite honestly, the default picture settings the TV came with seem better than will7046's calibration settings. His post did put out a warning stating that he wasn't sure if they would work with the B-series. Has anyone who has the B-series plasma experienced the same thing as me? I find it odd that I am not getting the same great results with these settings that most others on the thread are getting. And has anyone tried their own calibration testing for the B-series?
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post #330 of 410 Old 07-14-2014, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sl7z View Post
I agree. I bought the Samsung PN60F5300 B series from sears.com last week. I used the Movie Mode settings specified by will7046 in his original post that everyone seems to be raving about, however, on my set, the colors look extremely washed out and everything looks a little too bright (like the blacks don't really look all that black, which plasmas are supposed to do well). I don't know if I've been spoiled because I'm used to my Panasonic ST50 plasma and this TV is even more of a budget plasma, but quite honestly, the default picture settings the TV came with seem better than will7046's calibration settings. His post did put out a warning stating that he wasn't sure if they would work with the B-series. Has anyone who has the B-series plasma experienced the same thing as me? I find it odd that I am not getting the same great results with these settings that most others on the thread are getting. And has anyone tried their own calibration testing for the B-series?
At the very least you should be doing a basic calibration (contrast/brightness). If you wish to try someone else's settings, input everything then check contrast/brightness with the appropriate test patterns (Free AVS Disc works well: AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration). Adjust contrast/brightness accordingly after you've applied the 10pt greyscale and CMS settings.

If your picture is washed out, it's likely brightness is set too high.

Personally, if I did not have a meter, I would calibrate for just contrast/brightness/sharpness using a free disc and leave everything else at default/stock values (and set white balance to the most accurate stock setting, which, in the case of the f5300, should be warm1).
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