Originally Posted by crakarjax
What's this about "dancing green pixels"? I notice them up close but from viewing distance they are unnoticeable so I thought they were to prevent burn-in or something.
What's your brightness set to? If you're seeing the green pixels on an area that is pure black I'd venture to guess brightness is set a hair too high. In my experience moving it down to 47 eliminates the black level dithering. I've seen others mention the same number for their panels, including the F8500, which seems to indicate it's pretty consistent.
Originally Posted by Tuck16
As a one day old owner of one of these and being a noob having no skill or experience in calibrating; I have a few questions;
1) With these as i understand it, we are playing the lottery on whether you get the pink haze at the bottom of the screen or not; what causes this and why is it only at the bottom and not the top or sides?
2) Is returning it back to the store until you get one that doesn't make sense? If it is from the same store, isn't it theoretically out of the same 'batch' and therefore would probably have the same issue?
3) If i do have the tint, can it be calibrated out or minimized almost out?
4) Is it still a good idea to break in these panels with 100 hours or so of the full resolution color tile slideshow? If so, does that help at all with the pink haze or is that just to break it in and make sure you are calibrating from a fairly steady state? Can i use the same slide show i have form braking in my Panny G50 in 2009/10?
5) what settings should i change to get me by until it is calibrated, i see the few from Orion above, any others? I tried using Wills settings, but i think if i understood some of the other threads and articles, that is a lottery as well because each panel is different and the components in your system will affect your output?
1. I've yet to see anyone who has purchased an F5300 60 inch that was manufactured recently that does not have at least some degree of pink tint. Some are worse than others. I returned my first set. The second one does not have nearly as much of a tint problem, but enough that it still bugs me on occasion.
2. The "batch" theory makes sense, which is why I returned my set and tried a warehouse version (slightly different model number F5300 vs F5350, but they are the same).
3. It cannot be calibrated out.
4. Plasma "break in" is not universally agreed upon. Some believe it's necessary while others believe it's a waste of panel life and electricity. I personally did not implement any break in procedure with my set and have not noticed any sort of burn in - even when dealing with static test patterns for hours of calibration (at full brightness settings no less). If you want to play it as safe as possible it may be beneficial to run slides to get the set through it's potentially most susceptible burn in period at the beginning of it's lifespan.
5. Personally, I'd put it in movie mode, warm2, gamma -1, contrast 95, brightness 47 and leave all the advanced white balance/color settings alone. Double check that brightness/contrast are set properly with white/black clipping patterns on a test disc (such as the free AVS calibration disc available in these forums).
Originally Posted by Nikwasi
Experimenting, I applied your calibration to my 51F53000B and found that it alleviates the "orange" bias that Warm2 imparts to skin tones. Warm1 usually looks too pink, to me, while Warm2 tilts orange/green. I think the "cure" lies in your 2 point White Balance. Am I making any sense here? Obviously I am more/less a novice without calibration equipment.
The 2 point white balance does the "heavy lifting" of the greyscale calibration. If the 51 inch tracks gamma similarly to the 60 inch versions, there's a good chance it will help with depth. Regarding balance of RGB, it's possible the greyscale calibration is tracking similarly with your set and getting it closer to D65 (neutral white)... it's also possible it's pushing too much blue, giving you the impression that it is alleviating the excessive orange apparent in the stock settings. It's all speculation really. Bottom line is, if you don't have a meter and wish to try others settings you just have to eyeball it.