Samsung PN60F5300 calibration settings? - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
I've ended up calibrating to BT.1886 as I like the resulting look. I've been able to achieve 35fL luminance for 100% white and 0.002fL black levels (probably due to my voltage tweaks) for an amazing contrast ratio of ~17,500. Standard mode with 2pt calibration also looks quite good with a lower gamma which works well for Day viewing.
Incredible calibration! Almost all the color checker points are spot on. Within the limits of the meter - I don't think that panel could get any more accurate, aside from running LUT Cube calibration/color processing,

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post #452 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RyanHomsey View Post
Incredible calibration! Almost all the color checker points are spot on. Within the limits of the meter - I don't think that panel could get any more accurate, aside from running LUT Cube calibration/color processing,
Profiling with a reference spectro would increase the accuracy also, don't get me wrong the i1d3 design is great but it does have some limitations.

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post #453 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 05:44 AM
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Settings:

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 5
Color: 50
Tint: G50 / R50

Under "Advanced Settings"

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color Space: Custom
Gamma: -1

Color Space Settings (RGB):
Red 44, 4, 2
Green 20, 53, 6
Blue 4, 0, 60
Yellow 50, 56, 6
Cyan 27, 50, 51
Magenta 43, 6, 51

Under "Picture Options"

Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Clean View: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level (greyed out): Low
Film Mode (greyed out): Off (I do use Cinema Smooth, option is available when viewing 24p)
Black Optimizer: Dark Room

2pt White Balance
R-Offset +9
G-Offset +14
B-offset +16
R-Gain +3
G-Gain -7
B-Gain +3

10pt White Balance

10% +14, +43, +38
20% -13, +3, -10
30% -6, -6, -11
40% -15, -16, -17
50% 0, -3, 0
60% -17, -19, -19
70% +2, -9, -6
80% -6, -8, -2
90% +2, -10, -9
100% +10, -6, -3
Taking into consideration that I'm totally unscholarly in terms of calibration (and I apologize for it), I'm kept wondering how to input the 10pt White Balance values; the scale goes from -10 to +10, so numbers like +43 or -17 are confusing to me.

I'm trying to learn more about calibration and I want to buy a colorimeter later, so if I'm asking something really stupid here I hope you forgive me.
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post #454 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RyanHomsey View Post
Incredible calibration! Almost all the color checker points are spot on. Within the limits of the meter - I don't think that panel could get any more accurate, aside from running LUT Cube calibration/color processing,
Thanks Ryan. Yeah, I'm really happy with this. As it turns out, there are some issues with the AVS709 calibration patterns at least from some discussions with madshi on the HCFR thread. I'm currently using madVR Test Pattern Generator and things look great with this calibration.
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Profiling with a reference spectro would increase the accuracy also, don't get me wrong the i1d3 design is great but it does have some limitations.
Agreed, but I'm not planning on spending money on a spectrometer. From some studies with a decent sample size (http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/C...nHardware.html), the i1d3 had a max error/uncertainty ~1.4dE and mean error of 0.4 dE which really isn't that bad and visible to the human eye. From eyeballing the results so far, everything looks in order unlike the calibration I was getting with my faulty Spyder 2.
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post #455 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Agreed, but I'm not planning on spending money on a spectrometer. From some studies with a decent sample size (http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/C...nHardware.html), the i1d3 had a max error/uncertainty ~1.4dE and mean error of 0.4 dE which really isn't that bad and visible to the human eye. From eyeballing the results so far, everything looks in order unlike the calibration I was getting with my faulty Spyder 2.
Not at all suggesting that you should pick up one although you could pick up a used I1Pro revd for a very reasonable price, I have seen the difference of an unprofiled i1d3 and a calibration with a profile from a reference spectro very visible on my set. In no way was I taking pot shots at your calibration you have done a great job ! I was just pointing out that there is a meter accuracy wall that all of us run into regardless of the equipment that we have.

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post #456 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Thanks Ryan. Yeah, I'm really happy with this. As it turns out, there are some issues with the AVS709 calibration patterns at least from some discussions with madshi on the HCFR thread. I'm currently using madVR Test Pattern Generator and things look great with this calibration.

Agreed, but I'm not planning on spending money on a spectrometer. From some studies with a decent sample size (http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/C...nHardware.html), the i1d3 had a max error/uncertainty ~1.4dE and mean error of 0.4 dE which really isn't that bad and visible to the human eye. From eyeballing the results so far, everything looks in order unlike the calibration I was getting with my faulty Spyder 2.
I have a C6, which is part of the D3 meter family and I can tell you compared to a i1pro rev d spectro, the errors on my F5300 Plasma are much higher than what that link would suggest. That being said the C6 is not terribly inaccurate, but the errors are still quite visible and significant enough to justify owning the spectro in my case.
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post #457 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post
At the default movie settings, warm2, (no white balance adjustment) does gamma at -1 produce ~2.4? I had been using gamma at 0, but I was watching The Leftovers tonight and a few scenes looked washed out. I changed gamma to -1 and it looked a lot more pleasing to my eyes. I usually target gamma at 2.2 but I've found that gamma at 0, although it gives more shadow detail, also washes out the picture a bit and makes black levels appear higher than they really are.
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In my experience with my set, Movie mode with gamma at -1 gets close to 2.22. Gamma of -2 will get you close to 2.3. Just make sure you aren't clipping level 1/17 black when lowering gamma.
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Interesting. I guess gamma at 0 must be 2.1 or even lower and why it looks washed out.
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I forget exactly but Gamma 0 was around 2.15 or so on Movie mode. On Standard mode, Gamma 0 is more like 2.0 as it seems more geared towards bright, daylight viewing.
First of all, my PN51F5300AFXZA measures the same gamma in game/standard mode as in movie mode. That's around 2.15 avg gamma with gamma set to 0 and around 2.25 avg gamma with gamma set to -1. Even though, I have 2,000 hours on this set and have owned it since January, I cannot settle on an ideal gamma setting. -1 looks better with some movies and tv shows but looks too dim/dark with others and with less shadow detail that I'd like, 0 is brighter with more shadow detail which is great for games and is best for some TV/film content but also ends up looking washed out and grayish with certain TV or movie content. So, I can't say one gamma setting is best for all content. If I wasn't using game/standard mode, I could use the 10pt gamma controls and get gamma halfway between where 0 and -1 measure now, but I don't feel like making two calibrations and having to switch constantly between the two.

Overall, I seem to settle on 0 because shadow detail is important otherwise dark scenes just end up flat and too dark.
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post #458 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
I have a C6, which is part of the D3 meter family and I can tell you compared to a i1pro rev d spectro, the errors on my F5300 Plasma are much higher than what that link would suggest. That being said the C6 is not terribly inaccurate, but the errors are still quite visible and significant enough to justify owning the spectro in my case.
I just picked up a Rev D myself

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post #459 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
I have a C6, which is part of the D3 meter family and I can tell you compared to a i1pro rev d spectro, the errors on my F5300 Plasma are much higher than what that link would suggest. That being said the C6 is not terribly inaccurate, but the errors are still quite visible and significant enough to justify owning the spectro in my case.
Thanks for that datapoint. I assume the inaccuracy you mention is at high brightness readings (since spectrometers are unreliable at lower luminance readings). I guess I'll call it a day after calibrating to the best that I can achieve with my meter with the caveat that there may be some inaccuracy inherent to the meter. This is just a hobby and while I'd love to get absolute reference level accuracy, I can't justify the extra costs for something so subjective as movie viewing. The improvements after calibration are significant and I'm happy to say that I'm happy and satisfied with where things stand as they are
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post #460 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 10:03 AM
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Thanks for that datapoint. I assume the inaccuracy you mention is at high brightness readings (since spectrometers are unreliable at lower luminance readings). I guess I'll call it a day after calibrating to the best that I can achieve with my meter with the caveat that there may be some inaccuracy inherent to the meter. This is just a hobby and while I'd love to get absolute reference level accuracy, I can't justify the extra costs for something so subjective as movie viewing. The improvements after calibration are significant and I'm happy to say that I'm happy and satisfied with where things stand as they are
well, I profile the C6 to the spectro so that makes the C6 more accurate throughout the luminance range

of course, how much money each person is willing to spend on (degrees of absolute) accuracy is different and so I understand your point of view

in the calibration forum, there are some DIY'ers who feel even a $500-$1000 spectro isn't accurate enough and that it's worth upgrading to a spectro in the $10K or higher range
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post #461 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 10:14 AM
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well, I profile the C6 to the spectro so that makes the C6 more accurate throughout the luminance range

of course, how much money each person is willing to spend on (degrees of absolute) accuracy is different and so I understand your point of view

in the calibration forum, there are some DIY'ers who feel even a $500-$1000 spectro isn't accurate enough and that it's worth upgrading to a spectro in the $10K or higher range
They also feel you need a 6k colorimeter and a $700 lut box I will never be in that club !

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post #462 of 830 Old 08-12-2014, 10:49 AM
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well, I profile the C6 to the spectro so that makes the C6 more accurate throughout the luminance range

of course, how much money each person is willing to spend on (degrees of absolute) accuracy is different and so I understand your point of view

in the calibration forum, there are some DIY'ers who feel even a $500-$1000 spectro isn't accurate enough and that it's worth upgrading to a spectro in the $10K or higher range
Lol. I think that would be the rational thing to do to calibrate my $700 TV
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post #463 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 12:56 AM
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First of all, my PN51F5300AFXZA measures the same gamma in game/standard mode as in movie mode. That's around 2.15 avg gamma with gamma set to 0 and around 2.25 avg gamma with gamma set to -1. Even though, I have 2,000 hours on this set and have owned it since January, I cannot settle on an ideal gamma setting. -1 looks better with some movies and tv shows but looks too dim/dark with others and with less shadow detail that I'd like, 0 is brighter with more shadow detail which is great for games and is best for some TV/film content but also ends up looking washed out and grayish with certain TV or movie content. So, I can't say one gamma setting is best for all content. If I wasn't using game/standard mode, I could use the 10pt gamma controls and get gamma halfway between where 0 and -1 measure now, but I don't feel like making two calibrations and having to switch constantly between the two.

Overall, I seem to settle on 0 because shadow detail is important otherwise dark scenes just end up flat and too dark.
That's the same way I feel. 0 looks better on some and washed out on others.
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post #464 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 08:13 AM
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That's the same way I feel. 0 looks better on some and washed out on others.
Are you guys calibrating to power law gamma of 2.22 or using BT.1886? I like BT.1886 as it lets me have a lower gamma at the low end, resulting in better shadow detail while also not washing out the picture due to the higher overall gamma at the top end. BT.1886 uses the black and white point measurement to determine the target points, and I've been pretty happy with it. I've been watching in pitch black conditions with the BT.1886 calibration and it has looked great to me.

In general though, it is perfectly fine to calibrate the set and then tweak Gamma on the TV to what looks best. Some folks prefer gamma of 2.4-2.5 in dark viewing conditions, while others prefer sticking to 2.2. The one thing I should note though, is that Gamma does affect the color saturation targets on the CIE chart. Since TV CMS controls don't give you the granularity in control of luminance and saturation for 0-25-50-75-100% saturation targets, like you have 10pt whitebalance for the grayscale calibration, changing the overall gamma can throw you off quite a bit from the corresponding color targets on the CIE chart.

From experimenting with my set, it looks like the TV is natively setup to target powerlaw 2.22 gamma color targets reasonably well (or BT.1886). If you change the gamma away from that number and use "Measured Gamma" for the color targets in HCFR, you will find that the color targets can move a decent bit from the Gamma 2.22 locations, and the TV will not be able to match 0-75% saturation targets well.

So it's just something to keep in mind when tweaking gamma. I'll personally take the hit with accuracy on colors during daytime viewing as I need the lower gamma to compensate for ambient light levels.

Edit - Also, make sure to calibrate for the highest Gamma setting you wish to view in, and then only use +Gamma controls on the TV to lower overall gamma for brighter conditions. The reason being that you want to not clip low level blacks at the highest overall gamma setting. If you calibrated for 2.3 and then raise gamma to 2.4 with a -1 Gamma adjustment on the TV, you will likely clip level 17 black.
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post #465 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 09:13 AM
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Well, I'm using game mode which has no 10-pt controls... I suppose I could also calibrate movie mode and use it for movies and TV shows where input lag is irrelevant but I did try BT.1886 a while back and found it to have less shadow detail and dimmer midtones than gamma 0 in standard or movie mode prior to any 10-pt adjustment. That's likely due to the fact very low end gamma is already well below 2.2 with the gamma preset at 0.

Do you have the B model? Your native gamma in movie mode might be different from mine. Also, you mention gamma in standard mode is different from gamma in movie mode on your set. That's not the case with mine.

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post #466 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 09:19 AM
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They also feel you need a 6k colorimeter and a $700 lut box I will never be in that club !
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Lol. I think that would be the rational thing to do to calibrate my $700 TV
Yeah, if I had the money to afford any of those things I'd rather buy a better TV and a better set of 5.1 speakers.
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post #467 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 10:46 AM
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...and a better set of 5.1 speakers.
You mean a better set of 11.6 speakers?

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #468 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 10:56 AM
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Well, I'm using game mode which has no 10-pt controls... I suppose I could also calibrate movie mode and use it for movies and TV shows where input lag is irrelevant but I did try BT.1886 a while back and found it to have less shadow detail and dimmer midtones than gamma 0 in standard or movie mode prior to any 10-pt adjustment. That's likely due to the fact very low end gamma is already well below 2.2 with the gamma preset at 0.
It is very likely that your low end gamma is well below 2.2 at gamma preset 0. I do have the B model. I think black level detail is a bit tricky because a lot of times, we are used to having displays with lower gamma, especially when gaming. You aren't supposed to be able to see shadow details very clearly...because they are in the shadows , but it can be tempting to crank down gamma as it feels like you are seeing more details. The downside is a more washed out image. Of course, if you are viewing in brighter conditions, then the need for lower gamma becomes more obvious.

I think for gaming, lower gamma probably makes sense because a lot of games have dimly lit areas and the limited dynamic range of a monitor is no match for the dynamic range of our eyes. So no harm in tweaking gamma to whatever looks good for gaming.

With movies OTOH, I've found that with proper calibration to BT.1886, while increasing gamma on the Tv (lowering overall gamma), does brighten up the shadow areas, this increase seems artificial, washes out the image a bit and looks unnatural to me. This is in very dark room viewing conditions though. For daytime viewing, I'd probably up gamma by a click or two.

I may be wrong about different gamma between game and movie mode. The last time I checked, the two were not at the factory defaults so some of the settings could have affected my conclusion regarding overall gamma. But there is no doubt about the fact that Standard mode boosts overall brightness to some extent.
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post #469 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 01:26 PM
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Yeah, if I had the money to afford any of those things I'd rather buy a better TV and a better set of 5.1 speakers.
Absolutely !
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post #470 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 01:47 PM
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Been tweaking/calibrating on this set a fair bit recently ...

A few things I've learned:

While using "non contact" mode (ie meter not directly attached to screen) can help serve as a buffer to stabilize readings, with my meter (i1d2) it allowed in too much ambient light which skewed readings. I no longer use "non contact" mode.

The blue control adjustment box will skew your real time measurements when doing a continuous read, even in contact mode. My approach to this was to get everything spot on with the control box up, clear it off the screen, then make fine adjustments by going back through the entire menu. I had hoped/assumed that using contact mode would eliminate this issue but that was not the case.

The heat of the plasma changed the way my meter would read. The first wave of readings with the meter at room temperature would yield very different results versus after it warmed up. I have seen conflicting advice from professionals: some saying to always use non-contact mode, others saying using contact mode but get your readings from a room temperature meter (which I dont quite understand because there's no way I would have time to perform a calibration before the meter would heat up), and others saying to put the meter on the screen and allow it to warm up during the TV's pre-calibration warm up period. From my limited experience here it seems the latter is the only viable option, at least with my meter, which is admittedly dated at this point. I purchased it new in 2010. I do have plans to upgrade to a colormunki display or i1d3 in the future, it's just not in the funds right now.

The common theme among these panels, when calibrated to the 100% sat. points, is under saturation. When I last worked on TV calibration in 2010 I was unfamiliar with "color checker" patterns, I'm not sure if they were around or at least prominent at the time. To me, color checker patterns seems like the most ideal way to see how color calibration would effect "real world" viewing, so that's what I decided to focus on, in addition to lower saturation points.

Here's some stock measurements I took yesterday (ps, I manually enter black level as my meter cannot read that low, based on .005ftl) :








Everything definitely needs some work.

Interestingly, doing a greyscale and gamma (bt1886) calibration took the average deltaE of primary/secondaries from 3.42(6.65 max) to 1.86 (2.59 max). Never touched the CMS.

From there I tackled color. The way I handled it was to target a saturation point or two within a color which would most affect important color checker points (like skin tones, blue sky, etc). I am not using a HTPC nor a pattern generator, so doing these saturation point and color checker runs take a fair amount of time and a lot of "clicks". In the interest of time and my sanity there was just no way I was going to get things as close as Orion's calibration (he's also using a more accurate/faster meter than mine). But I got things looking good ... and most importantly, in real world viewing everything is noticeably improved.

White Balance from stock average deltaE 5.57 (max 10.23) to .28 (max .60). I could have actually gotten this tighter.



PS - Does anyone know why my target luminance points are always cut off in the measurements section (HCFR 3.1.5)? It's a pain trying to guess what a half cut off number is...



Color checker from stock average deltaE 5.34 (max 12.25) to 1.08 (max 2.85). The CIE chart got whacky because HCFR assumed some of the free measures of 75% sat. points I did were 100% sat points, so I wont post that.



I know I've said it before but until I get a new meter I'm done! Then I also have to decide if I want to venture into Orion/Tom's voltage tweaks... I sure wish you had some pre/post meter measurements on that black level + pink tint. If I was confident I could achieve .002ftl AND potentially reduce pink tint it'd be a no brainier .
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post #471 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 02:24 PM
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PS - Does anyone know why my target luminance points are always cut off in the measurements section (HCFR 3.1.5)? It's a pain trying to guess what a half cut off number is...
Lol, yeah there is a non-trivial way to fix this. If you see the little checkbox saying "editable" right above the table, right next to it are two up/down arrow buttons. Click the down arrow button and each click will add one more row to the table view. This is the strangest UI choice I have seen, but I'll take it over having no way of tweaking the view
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I know I've said it before but until I get a new meter I'm done! Then I also have to decide if I want to adventure into Orion/Tom's voltage tweaks... I sure wish you had some pre/post measurements on that black level. If I was confident I could achieve .002ftl AND potentially reduce pink tint it'd be a no brainier .
I am >90% sure that the voltage tweak + black optimizer resulted in the 0.002ftL black level on my unit. While I didn't have my meter at the time, I do recall viewing a few movies in pitch black conditions and noting the black levels at the time. While they were much better than my old TV, I was a bit disappointed at the time with the background glow on pitch black screens. I believe that someone else here also posted saying that on their set, 0.005ftL was the measured black level. I am quite confident with my black level reading as my meter is extremely consistent in measuring that number and the measured luminance at the high end is in line with expected brightness in movie mode (34-35ftL).

Do you have any idea if your meter is accurate when "cold" or when warmed up? Sucks about the discrepancy...5dE is a huge difference. Visually, does one look more neutral than the other? FWIW, the colormunki display shows no real difference in readings between cold and warm measurements.
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post #472 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 04:16 PM
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Sliding Power 2.2 Gamma (CalMAN 5)

Here's an experimental gamma calibration in movie mode using the 10-pt controls and gamma preset 0:

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 99
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 0
Color: 46
Tint: G50/R50

Picture size submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit

Advanced settings submenu:
Dynamic contrast: Off
Black tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Color Space submenu:
Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 0
Green: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 0
Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 50
Yellow: Red 50, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 50
Magenta: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 50

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 21
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 22
R-Gain: 22
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 22

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red +5, Green +5, Blue +5
Interval 2: Red +7, Green +7, Blue +7
Interval 3: Red +6, Green +6, Blue +6
Interval 4: Red +5, Green +5, Blue +5
Interval 5: Red +3, Green +3, Blue +3
Interval 6: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 7: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 8: Red -5, Green -5, Blue -5
Interval 9: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm1
Digital Clean View: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal [grayed out]
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Black optimizer: Dark room
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post #473 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Color Space submenu:
Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 0
Green: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 0
Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 50
Yellow: Red 50, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 50
Magenta: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 50
This looks a bit strange to me. Why do you set your Color Space to 50,0,0 permutations? I highly doubt that this would lead to accurate colors across the gamut, especially at lower color saturations. I believe that Calman has a way to do a saturation sweep like in HCFR. I think you should really try that to see how the colors look at lower saturation. My guess is that you will likely need to rework the colorspace controls to get things to line up.

Edit - Also, what is the exact black level you are measuring with these settings. Is it 0.01, 0.0149, etc cm/m2?

Last edited by orion2001; 08-13-2014 at 04:36 PM.
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post #474 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
This looks a bit strange to me. Why do you set your Color Space to 50,0,0 permutations? I highly doubt that this would lead to accurate colors across the gamut, especially at lower color saturations. I believe that Calman has a way to do a saturation sweep like in HCFR. I think you should really try that to see how the colors look at lower saturation. My guess is that you will likely need to rework the colorspace controls to get things to line up.
2 reasons: wasn't calibrating gamut at the moment and also I seem to prefer the slightly over-saturated colors with most content (and especially games)

measured 0.006 fl at start of calibration and 0.005 fL at end
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post #475 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 05:13 PM
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The i1d2 is definitely degraded by screen temp in long cal sessions. The i1d3 has temp compensation to offset that . I use contact mode with my i1d2
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post #476 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Lol, yeah there is a non-trivial way to fix this. If you see the little checkbox saying "editable" right above the table, right next to it are two up/down arrow buttons. Click the down arrow button and each click will add one more row to the table view. This is the strangest UI choice I have seen, but I'll take it over having no way of tweaking the view

Do you have any idea if your meter is accurate when "cold" or when warmed up? Sucks about the discrepancy...5dE is a huge difference. Visually, does one look more neutral than the other? FWIW, the colormunki display shows no real difference in readings between cold and warm measurements.
Thanks for the HCFR tip! Never really noticed those little arrows before. It will be much less frustrating to figure out my target luminance next time, lol!

Not sure on the cold vs warm color accuracy. I'd assume it is most accurate @ room temp ... which poses a problem. My best approach may be to do the calibration in steps - allowing the meter to cool down in between. Honestly, I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and snag a new meter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post
The i1d2 is definitely degraded by screen temp in long cal sessions. The i1d3 has temp compensation to offset that . I use contact mode with my i1d2
Thanks for the info. The is the first plasma I've done any calibration on. Didn't have that issue with the cooler running LCD's in the past. Ah, the joys of calibration .

I snapped a few "screenshots". Photos white balanced via raw - using a white balance card and a full field white test screen. Like this:



Not sure how these turned out. My laptop is screen is very low quality and not calibrated. Taking photos of a TV in the dark is not the easiest task. There are some funky artifacts going on that is certainly not visible in real life.

The bias light behind the TV is a cheapo $23 LED strip from amazon. It's not a pure white like I was hoping for, more of a blueish purple, but I honestly think it helps perceive less of the pink tint (when it is visible). It's nice that it plugs into the USB port and turns on/off automatically with the TV.

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-HDTV-51-...978070&sr=8-1&











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post #477 of 830 Old 08-13-2014, 06:22 PM
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Hey guys,
Just purchased my ph60f5300bf
Got it home, plugged it it, and tuned to a hd channel (without logos) to let it run a bit.
First impressions are very good (compared to my OLD Hitachi 57f59 rear projection tv)
The only issue I notice is a very small "jumping" where an item on the picture will "jump" up and down every few seconds.... I paused the dvr for a few seconds and on a paused screen it still jumps?
Hard to explain.
What is recommended the first month of break in? I am going to let it run for a few hours tonight and give it a break. I have gone through the majority of the 10 pages of this thread (much of what I do not understand) and still am unsure of the "proper" break-in procedure.
Thanks for any help!
Loving the set so far! Looks better than my Panny in the bedroom so far
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post #478 of 830 Old 08-14-2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp6940 View Post
Hey guys,
Just purchased my ph60f5300bf
Got it home, plugged it it, and tuned to a hd channel (without logos) to let it run a bit.
First impressions are very good (compared to my OLD Hitachi 57f59 rear projection tv)
The only issue I notice is a very small "jumping" where an item on the picture will "jump" up and down every few seconds.... I paused the dvr for a few seconds and on a paused screen it still jumps?
Hard to explain.
What is recommended the first month of break in? I am going to let it run for a few hours tonight and give it a break. I have gone through the majority of the 10 pages of this thread (much of what I do not understand) and still am unsure of the "proper" break-in procedure.
Thanks for any help!
Loving the set so far! Looks better than my Panny in the bedroom so far
the pixel shift feature is what you're noticing... I simply set picture size to screen fit, which automatically turns it off

there is no real break in procedure needed for a 2013-2014 Samsung Plasma TV... just don't leave something paused on the screen for hours and vary content that has static logos, HUDs, or black bars at the top and bottom or left and right

I use my 51" F5300 A model for mainly gaming and some BD or Netflix Streaming movies/HD cable TV shows. I've played games, for example, that have static HUDs for long periods of time and most IR goes away in minutes and the more stubborn goes away in hours or a few days once I stop displaying what is causing the IR. In other words, if I was playing Halo 4 for 1-2 weeks and the shield bar (big blue bar at top center of screen) became stubborn IR on the screen when something else was displayed, simply not playing that game for anywhere from a few hours to a few days would make that stubborn IR disappear completely. No need for pixel flippers, screen washes/wipes, scrolling bars, slides, etc. Just varying content.
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post #479 of 830 Old 08-14-2014, 08:52 AM
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Love this site for so many reasons, however, I am considering getting this TV to replace my Vizio E60i-B3. I just can't get the picture to look right after hours of calibrating. I know this TV is a Plasma, but I do not mind missing the smart features because I can use my bluray player for those. I wanted to get an opinion from whoever feels kind enough to share, will I experience a lot better picture with this TV compared to my E Series Vizio? Thanks in advance.

P.S. The side viewing on my Vizio is horrible too, I'm sure it'll be better with this set right?

Last edited by mattm951; 08-14-2014 at 09:00 AM.
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post #480 of 830 Old 08-14-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mattm951 View Post
will I experience a lot better picture with this TV compared to my E Series Vizio? Thanks in advance.

P.S. The side viewing on my Vizio is horrible too, I'm sure it'll be better with this set right?
Side viewing will be vastly better ... apples to oranges. Though I have no experience with the Vizio, I can almost guarantee the PQ will be better. The Movie mode picture on the F5300 looks good right out of the box.
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