Samsung PN60F5300 calibration settings? - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
Viewing distance is one consideration that led me to stick with the 51 (I think). My current distance is roughly 7' with the TV sitting on an AV stand. A 60" screen would require wall mounting because there just isn't room between my L/R main speakers on a short wall. Things are tight up there as it is. That would increase my viewing distance by 4-5' so my field of view wouldn't be much larger ... if at all.

Thanks.
Yeah, doesn't seem worth it to me in that case. If you could position it at 7-8 ft (8 might be better incase you are sensitive to SDE), then the 60" would really be worth it due to the level of immersion you'd achieve with the larger screen. 51->60" is a substantial increase for the same viewing distance. In your case, it would almost be a downgrade due to the risk for pink tint, as well as having a pentile panel, and the additional hassle of wall mounting.

OTOH, if you do think you will have to wall mount in future to keep safe from kids or to free up space in the room, then 60" would definitely be the way to go as a 51" at that distance will not be enjoyable to watch after being used to your current viewing distance.
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post #542 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
OTOH, if you do think you will have to wall mount in future to keep safe from kids or to free up space in the room, then 60" would definitely be the way to go as a 51" at that distance will not be enjoyable to watch after being used to your current viewing distance.
Kid is 19, so there is no way to make anything safe from him.

Also, I'm only an occasional movie watcher; sports come first. I'm not really seeking a cinema experience most of the time.

Thanks for the advice, all. I think the sweats have passed.

Edit: This TV is available at the Duluth, Ga. BB store if anyone else is interested. Probably won't last long.

Last edited by Nikwasi; 08-15-2014 at 01:01 PM.
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post #543 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 01:13 PM
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Kid is 19, so there is no way to make anything safe from him.
Lol, I have 7 month old twins so I'm pretty worried about the life expectancy of this TV in my living room
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post #544 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Thanks a lot Ryan! This will be great. I can use one of the cal modes to calibrate to sRGB for PC usage as I can then use my TV for Lightroom work if needed. I'd be curious to know if Cal-Night and Cal-Day are just identical modes to Movie giving you 3 slots instead of 1, or whether there are differences between them (for example, Cal day being perhaps brighter like Standard mode?). Also, is ColorSpace setting still shared across all the modes?
They appear to be identical to two extra movie modes...sort of.

10pt white balance and color space is still shared across the CAL-DAY / CAL-NIGHT modes but the 2pt white balance isn't. Colorspace is shared across all three movie/cal-day/cal-night modes.

The good part is: movie mode can take its own set of 2pt AND 10pt white balance.

Right now I have identical settings plugged into both of the new modes but with gamma at 0 instead of -1 on "CAL-DAY" mode.

I may eventually, when I get a new upgraded meter, do a top to bottom dark room bt1886 gamma calibration in movie mode. Then do a light room calibration with PL2.1 gamma for CAL-DAY.

P.S. - We watched "The Matrix" last night and I decided to try it with the bias light off in pitch black. Either this new F5350 set has better blacks than the F5300 set I had or my eyes have adjusted to it. While it's not pitch OLED black it seems much more tolerable without any ambient light. I'm still experimenting but I think I prefer it without a bias light now.
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post #545 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Thanks a lot Ryan! This will be great. I can use one of the cal modes to calibrate to sRGB for PC usage as I can then use my TV for Lightroom work if needed. I'd be curious to know if Cal-Night and Cal-Day are just identical modes to Movie giving you 3 slots instead of 1, or whether there are differences between them (for example, Cal day being perhaps brighter like Standard mode?). Also, is ColorSpace setting still shared across all the modes?
As far as I can can tell the Cal modes will calibrate just like movie......but I think the pre calibrations will be different......I don't think one is brighter than the other, just have cell lights at different values for each preset.
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post #546 of 1061 Old 08-15-2014, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
As far as I can can tell the Cal modes will calibrate just like movie......but I think the pre calibrations will be different......I don't think one is brighter than the other, just have cell lights at different values for each preset.
Yup, looks like it. I think they will all look identical if the settings are kept the same across them
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10pt white balance and color space is still shared across the CAL-DAY / CAL-NIGHT modes but the 2pt white balance isn't. Colorspace is shared across all three movie/cal-day/cal-night modes.

The good part is: movie mode can take its own set of 2pt AND 10pt white balance.
Thanks, got Day/Night mode enabled. I also confirmed what you mentioned about the shared 10pt white balance. I guess you can still use the 2pt adjustment for a course tweaking of overall Gamma for each mode.

I'll keep Movie mode at BT.1886 and probably calibrate Cal-Night to PL 2.3 or 2.4 as another option for pitch black viewing at night. I don't know if I will use Cal-Day for day viewing though. I prefer the extra boost in brightness in Standard mode -> I was able to get white level up to 43fL without any whitebalance issues (red is close to clipping out at 100% white) in Standard mode, and colors still line up really well on the CIE chart. Gamma with 2pt white balance in Standard mode is pretty flat and roughly ~2.15. The extra 10fL of brightness is very handy for day viewing. I was kinda hoping that Cal-Day would have a similar brightness boost along with 10pt calibration, but I think this should be totally acceptable.
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post #547 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 09:33 AM
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Is anyone calibrating with Cinema Smooth on? I wanted to calibrate Movie modes with it on and my Cal Day and Night with it off.......has anyone noticed a difference with it on......my test didn't show it working but another guy said it looks better.
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post #548 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
Is anyone calibrating with Cinema Smooth on? I wanted to calibrate Movie modes with it on and my Cal Day and Night with it off.......has anyone noticed a difference with it on......my test didn't show it working but another guy said it looks better.
Cinema Smooth does work. It's easy enough to test with the right scenes. A great scene to test it on is the opening scene in Captain America - Winter Soldier. A guy is running across the screen and the camera pans slowly with the Washington Monument in the background. With Cinema Smooth off, the monument moves with a lot of judder across the screen. If you turn it on, it moves across a lot smoother. It definitely works, and I'm not sure why some folks have claimed that CS doesn't work/do anything. It is easy to spot if you know what to look for.

Also CS does change the whitebalance to some extent. So if you wish to calibrate for CS on and off, you will need 2 separate calibrations. On my HTPC, I just set the screen to 1920x1080@23pHz all the time with CS turned on in the TV menu. That way, the same calibration can be applied across regular PC usage and when viewing movies/videos in MPC-HC. This would not work well if gaming though as you would want to switch to 60pHz for gaming.

After playing around with the calibration modes last night, I'm not too sure about the utility of Cal-DAY and Cal-NIGHT modes due to their shared 10pt white balance. I tried boosting up the light output in Cal-DAY by boosting RGB gain values in the 2pt whitebalance, and got the brightness up to 42fL for peak white. However, the gamma curve for Cal-DAY when compared against the Cal-NIGHT (which was set to 2.3 PL) showed that 90% IRE was too high in gamma for the Cal-DAY mode. The only way to fix it would be to tweak the 90% white balance point, but if I did this to fix Cal-DAY, it would mess up my Cal-Night calibration.

I think ultimately, the utility of unlocking this is to have 1 extra preset that you can customize as needed (Cal-Day or Cal-Night) in addition to Movie mode. THe other preset between Cal-Day and Cal-Night can be tweaked but will not be as accurate as you would want it to be due to the limitation with the 10pt Whitebalance limitation.

I'm okay with this as Standard mode actually works very well for Day viewing. I just have to drop color down to 44 instead of 50, and using 2pt Whitebalance, I can get a pretty flat, 2.09 Gamma curve (Gamma=0 in TV) with 45fL peak brightness.
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post #549 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Cinema Smooth does work. It's easy enough to test with the right scenes. A great scene to test it on is the opening scene in Captain America - Winter Soldier. A guy is running across the screen and the camera pans slowly with the Washington Monument in the background. With Cinema Smooth off, the monument moves with a lot of judder across the screen. If you turn it on, it moves across a lot smoother. It definitely works, and I'm not sure why some folks have claimed that CS doesn't work/do anything. It is easy to spot if you know what to look for.

Also CS does change the whitebalance to some extent. So if you wish to calibrate for CS on and off, you will need 2 separate calibrations. On my HTPC, I just set the screen to 1920x1080@23pHz all the time with CS turned on in the TV menu. That way, the same calibration can be applied across regular PC usage and when viewing movies/videos in MPC-HC. This would not work well if gaming though as you would want to switch to 60pHz for gaming.

After playing around with the calibration modes last night, I'm not too sure about the utility of Cal-DAY and Cal-NIGHT modes due to their shared 10pt white balance. I tried boosting up the light output in Cal-DAY by boosting RGB gain values in the 2pt whitebalance, and got the brightness up to 42fL for peak white. However, the gamma curve for Cal-DAY when compared against the Cal-NIGHT (which was set to 2.3 PL) showed that 90% IRE was too high in gamma for the Cal-DAY mode. The only way to fix it would be to tweak the 90% white balance point, but if I did this to fix Cal-DAY, it would mess up my Cal-Night calibration.

I think ultimately, the utility of unlocking this is to have 1 extra preset that you can customize as needed (Cal-Day or Cal-Night) in addition to Movie mode. THe other preset between Cal-Day and Cal-Night can be tweaked but will not be as accurate as you would want it to be due to the limitation with the 10pt Whitebalance limitation.

I'm okay with this as Standard mode actually works very well for Day viewing. I just have to drop color down to 44 instead of 50, and using 2pt Whitebalance, I can get a pretty flat, 2.09 Gamma curve (Gamma=0 in TV) with 45fL peak brightness.
Does it raise black levels? Would I also be fine calibrating Movie mode with CS On and Cal Day/Night with it off? They don't share the same 10pt do they?
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post #550 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
I'm okay with this as Standard mode actually works very well for Day viewing. I just have to drop color down to 44 instead of 50, and using 2pt Whitebalance, I can get a pretty flat, 2.09 Gamma curve (Gamma=0 in TV) with 45fL peak brightness.
I now have two 51F5300Bs, so I'm using one as a "test" set (until my bedroom is revamped). I have been using that TV to try out color space and white balance settings shared by AVS members on this and other threads. With every set of numbers I have tried, color lines up at 44 Standard, 50 Movie using the flashing bars. I have almost reached a conclusion that these numbers are etched in stone for the 51, and perhaps for the 60.

Orion, have you changed your Standards settings since you shared them a couple of weeks ago?
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post #551 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 11:21 AM
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I finally pulled the trigger on the 60F5300 after a lot of reading through different threads and with the wait and see approach. Now I have to wait until this Wednesday for delivery. I do plan to do a full calibration on my own with HCFR down the road. What game plan would you take to accomplish this. Also I see a couple of you did your own calibrations. What meters did you use.
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post #552 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 01:00 PM
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I finally pulled the trigger on the 60F5300 after a lot of reading through different threads and with the wait and see approach. Now I have to wait until this Wednesday for delivery. I do plan to do a full calibration on my own with HCFR down the road. What game plan would you take to accomplish this. Also I see a couple of you did your own calibrations. What meters did you use.
I used a I1 Display Pro with Calman 5.........I was so glad when I finally bought a meter for myself!
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I used a I1 Display Pro with Calman 5.........I was so glad when I finally bought a meter for
myself!


In your opinion do you think that Calman 5 basic is worthy of the $150 price tag. The I1 is right in my price range for a meter.
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post #554 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 01:40 PM
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For camera panning judder I think it judders more when it pans up too down vs side too side.Though you dont see it very often.
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post #555 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 02:07 PM
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In your opinion do you think that Calman 5 basic is worthy of the $150 price tag. The I1 is right in my price range for a meter.
I love Calman....although I have never used another program to calibrate. Calman does a good job of walking you through how to do it.
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post #556 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 02:38 PM
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I love Calman....although I have never used another program to calibrate. Calman does a good job of walking you through how to do it.

Thanks for the input.
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post #557 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by S Dayton View Post
I do plan to do a full calibration on my own with HCFR down the road.
Honestly, unless you are interested in pursuing this as another, albeit interesting, aspect of the hobby, it is probably not worth the effort for this particular set. Stock settings of movie, warm2 and custom color space give fabulous results.
You may want to wait until you have your set for a while before you commit yourself to calibration.
Michael
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #558 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Honestly, unless you are interested in pursuing this as another, albeit interesting, aspect of the hobby, it is probably not worth the effort for this particular set. Stock settings of movie, warm2 and custom color space give fabulous results.
You may want to wait until you have your set for a while before you commit yourself to calibration.
Michael
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I disagree with Michael on this one.

Meter calibration will help quite a bit in all of the important areas:

Stock vs Calibrated

Gamma




White Balance




Color Accuracy



If you're interested in learning to calibrate, which it seems like you are, this is a fantastic set to do it with. Amazon is selling i1d3s (aka i1 display pro) for $189 right now. Pair it with free HCFR like you intended to do and you will have a low cost calibration setup that will serve you well for many years/tv's.
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post #559 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 06:47 PM
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If you're interested in learning to calibrate, which it seems like you are, this is a fantastic set to do it with.
We agree, but I want Dayton to know that it's not as simple as we're making it look.
And I have a story, which I was going to post separately, but this is as good a segue as any.
THIS IS A TRUE STORY!
My wife is a retired graphic designer, so she's very aware of color. Though she has never understood my constant fiddling with the settings of the various sets we've had, she has been very aware of the difference between what we watch at home and what she sees elsewhere.
A few days ago, I was going to see if there was much difference for daytime viewing between increasing the gamma vs. increasing brightness/contrast. I reset the picture to movie defaults (for the hundredth time ), changed auto to off, color space to custom. Nothing else.
That was during the day, so I played around (again ) with Room EQ Wizard. After dinner, once it got dark, I started to set everything up for HCFR, and my wife said, "Wow, that's a great picture!"
Needless to say, I haven't bothered changing anything since, and have no desire (at the moment) to take out the meter and remeasure.
I think most people will be quite happy with this set with very minor tweaks. The "rabbit hole" of calibration is a deep one. It's not that expensive, but it can be a real time-suck. And it has to be dark, so you're going to be up late!
For now, I'm leaving the set as is. And I think Dayton may want to see how it looks before decides how involved he wants to get with calibrating.
Michael

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #560 of 1061 Old 08-16-2014, 10:45 PM
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Thanks guys. I am aware of the time and effort involved learning to calibrate. I feel that I can handle it after doing some reading at Curtpalme and getting familiar with HCFR.
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post #561 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by S Dayton View Post
In your opinion do you think that Calman 5 basic is worthy of the $150 price tag. The I1 is right in my price range for a meter.
Personally, I'd hold off on spending the $150 on it unless you are unhappy with HCFR. I've used the demo version (simulated meter) of Calman and also HCFR. To be honest, I found the UI of Calman to be very confusing as it follows their own philosophy and is not a standard UI that one would be used to. I think that you still need to spend a decent bit of time getting used with either software to get comfortable with them. That being said, Calman obviously is a more professional product overall and also can be customized more with custom workflows, etc and they also provide support to users (though you get pretty good support with HCFR here on the forums). The downside of using something like Calman is often times people will use it blindly in "auto/idiot-proof" mode and get some results without understanding even the basic concepts of calibration. This can end up doing more harm than good because you can often make things worse rather than better. I wrote a long post about how Cnet's calibrations on a few sets looked highly questionable and their main reviewer was using Calman to achieve his results.: Sub-$800 plasma for living room

HCFR is very very capable but has a few quirks and takes a bit of time to get used to. However, there is an excellent guide for using it to do calibration on curtpalme's forum. I learned most of what I know from that article and reading up and asking questions here on the forums. If it were up to me, I'd spend the extra $150 towards better speakers/subwoofers in your setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
We agree, but I want Dayton to know that it's not as simple as we're making it look.
And I have a story, which I was going to post separately, but this is as good a segue as any.
THIS IS A TRUE STORY!
My wife is a retired graphic designer, so she's very aware of color. Though she has never understood my constant fiddling with the settings of the various sets we've had, she has been very aware of the difference between what we watch at home and what she sees elsewhere.
A few days ago, I was going to see if there was much difference for daytime viewing between increasing the gamma vs. increasing brightness/contrast. I reset the picture to movie defaults (for the hundredth time ), changed auto to off, color space to custom. Nothing else.
That was during the day, so I played around (again ) with Room EQ Wizard. After dinner, once it got dark, I started to set everything up for HCFR, and my wife said, "Wow, that's a great picture!"
Needless to say, I haven't bothered changing anything since, and have no desire (at the moment) to take out the meter and remeasure.
I think most people will be quite happy with this set with very minor tweaks. The "rabbit hole" of calibration is a deep one. It's not that expensive, but it can be a real time-suck. And it has to be dark, so you're going to be up late!
For now, I'm leaving the set as is. And I think Dayton may want to see how it looks before decides how involved he wants to get with calibrating.
Michael
I have dual feelings about your post. I agree that many people don't necessarily need a calibrated set, and some wouldn't even like a calibrated set as they prefer torch mode kind of pictures. But the flip side is that these same people are the ones for whom features like Dynamic Contrast exist. They would love it for the added pop, being completely ignorant to the fact that they are clipping tons of information.

I think if someone is looking to get a meter to calibrate, it is a good idea to do so if you are willing to look at it as a learning experience. In my case, prior to receiving my meter, the out of box settings felt good but not great. Turning on dynamic contrast actually made images look much better due to the tendency of colors being undersaturated at 25-75% levels with out of the box settings. This was disappointing to me, but once I got the meter and calibrated properly, this was no longer an issue. I get the pop I was looking for without having to resort to artificial post processing.

But yeah, I'm sure there are others just looking to buy a meter and calibrate in 30 minutes and be done with it. For those folks, hiring a professional is probably the way to go.

I will also say that meters are expensive. For that price, you can buy excellent speakers/subwoofers, so you should think twice about sinking that kind of money on a meter if it is only for your TV and if your other HT components could use an upgrade. In my case, I needed the meter in any case as I have a DSLR and am into photography. After printing out a 60"x20" landscape and finding the brightness to be off due to the lack of calibration (I did an eyeball calibration with test prints prior to ordering) I decided that a meter was something I would have to invest in sooner or later.
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post #562 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
Does it raise black levels? Would I also be fine calibrating Movie mode with CS On and Cal Day/Night with it off? They don't share the same 10pt do they?
CS *can* raise black levels. However, I found that if you adjust your brightness down by a click or 2, it will bring back your black levels... you just gotta make sure that you don't clip level 17 black at that setting. In my case, I can still achieve very good black level, but I believe my brightness was 1 click lower with CS turned on.

And no, Movie mode's 10pt calibration is not shared with any other preset. So you could calibrate as you suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
I now have two 51F5300Bs, so I'm using one as a "test" set (until my bedroom is revamped). I have been using that TV to try out color space and white balance settings shared by AVS members on this and other threads. With every set of numbers I have tried, color lines up at 44 Standard, 50 Movie using the flashing bars. I have almost reached a conclusion that these numbers are etched in stone for the 51, and perhaps for the 60.

Orion, have you changed your Standards settings since you shared them a couple of weeks ago?
I might have some minor tweaks. However, I'm not sure if going by my settings is a good idea since I have an HTPC. After lots of digging around and testing, it does look like the PC level to Video level scaling can make things a bit different in my case v/s those here with BluRay players connected directly to their TV. Additionally, with HTPC, you are also dependent on your specific GPU and if it does anything weird in processing the video input.
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post #563 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jp6940 View Post
The reflections scared the hell out of me but now that it's home they are not bad at all!
I would think if you had a window BEHIND you it might be a problem. Mine are to the left and right and my room is pretty bright during the day. Picture was still very good though!
I knew I would get reflections during the day but I'm honestly surprised at how reflective it still is at night with all the lights off. Maybe it's because I have white walls, but I can still see my reflection in the black portions of the picture, or the letterbox bars even in a fully dark room. It's not a deal breaker by any means, but I was just surprised coming from a previous plasma with an AR filter that had no reflective issues at night.
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post #564 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Personally, I'd hold off on spending the $150 on it unless you are unhappy with HCFR. I've used the demo version (simulated meter) of Calman and also HCFR. To be honest, I found the UI of Calman to be very confusing as it follows their own philosophy and is not a standard UI that one would be used to. I think that you still need to spend a decent bit of time getting used with either software to get comfortable with them. That being said, Calman obviously is a more professional product overall and also can be customized more with custom workflows, etc and they also provide support to users (though you get pretty good support with HCFR here on the forums). The downside of using something like Calman is often times people will use it blindly in "auto/idiot-proof" mode and get some results without understanding even the basic concepts of calibration. This can end up doing more harm than good because you can often make things worse rather than better. I wrote a long post about how Cnet's calibrations on a few sets looked highly questionable and their main reviewer was using Calman to achieve his results.: Sub-$800 plasma for living room

HCFR is very very capable but has a few quirks and takes a bit of time to get used to. However, there is an excellent guide for using it to do calibration on curtpalme's forum. I learned most of what I know from that article and reading up and asking questions here on the forums. If it were up to me, I'd spend the extra $150 towards better speakers/subwoofers in your setup.


I have dual feelings about your post. I agree that many people don't necessarily need a calibrated set, and some wouldn't even like a calibrated set as they prefer torch mode kind of pictures. But the flip side is that these same people are the ones for whom features like Dynamic Contrast exist. They would love it for the added pop, being completely ignorant to the fact that they are clipping tons of information.

I think if someone is looking to get a meter to calibrate, it is a good idea to do so if you are willing to look at it as a learning experience. In my case, prior to receiving my meter, the out of box settings felt good but not great. Turning on dynamic contrast actually made images look much better due to the tendency of colors being undersaturated at 25-75% levels with out of the box settings. This was disappointing to me, but once I got the meter and calibrated properly, this was no longer an issue. I get the pop I was looking for without having to resort to artificial post processing.

But yeah, I'm sure there are others just looking to buy a meter and calibrate in 30 minutes and be done with it. For those folks, hiring a professional is probably the way to go.

I will also say that meters are expensive. For that price, you can buy excellent speakers/subwoofers, so you should think twice about sinking that kind of money on a meter if it is only for your TV and if your other HT components could use an upgrade. In my case, I needed the meter in any case as I have a DSLR and am into photography. After printing out a 60"x20" landscape and finding the brightness to be off due to the lack of calibration (I did an eyeball calibration with test prints prior to ordering) I decided that a meter was something I would have to invest in sooner or later.

$200 for the price of a meter and some of my free time seems like a sensible idea. I already have a decent older speaker set IE the original Energy Take 5 with the S-12 sub powered by my new Denon X1100. Anything else would be over kill in my living situation being in a condo rental. I am considering also purchasing the PN51F5300 for the bedroom next month so the $200 cost of the meter is ok with me if I get both sets done within a year before the meter starts to drift out of calibration. Now my question is, can I enjoy this set on day one with the appropriate settings of cinema, Warm 1 Delta -1 or should forgo all this and just run slides for 100+ hours before I attempt to make some basic adjustments in the contrast and brightness and enjoy what I paid for. I don't plan to do a full calibration until a couple of months passed. I noticed on my previous Panasonic plasma from 2007 that I had to reset the brightness, contrast color and tint every other week for about two months until the set settled in.
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post #565 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 11:05 AM
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Sliding Power 2.24 Gamma (CalMAN 5)

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 99
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 0
Color: 46
Tint: G50/R50

Picture size submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit

Advanced settings submenu:
Dynamic contrast: Off
Black tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Color Space submenu:
Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 0
Green: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 0
Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 50
Yellow: Red 50, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 0, Green 50, Blue 50
Magenta: Red 50, Green 0, Blue 50

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 21
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 22
R-Gain: 22
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 22

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red +3, Green +3, Blue +3
Interval 2: Red +5, Green +5, Blue +5
Interval 3: Red +4, Green +4, Blue +4
Interval 4: Red +3, Green +3, Blue +3
Interval 5: Red +1, Green +1, Blue +1
Interval 6: Red -3, Green -3, Blue -3
Interval 7: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 8: Red -7, Green -7, Blue -7
Interval 9: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm1
Digital Clean View: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal [grayed out]
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Black optimizer: Dark room
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post #566 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 11:08 AM
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This brings the high end in line with point gamma 2.20 by moving all 10-pt controls down by 2 clicks. In other words the shape of the gamma curve is unaltered but it has been bumped up (in terms of point gamma not brightness) a bit to help with sources that looked too light/bright with the previous calibration.
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post #567 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
This brings the high end in line with point gamma 2.20 by moving all 10-pt controls down by 2 clicks. In other words the shape of the gamma curve is unaltered but it has been bumped up (in terms of point gamma not brightness) a bit to help with sources that looked too light/bright with the previous calibration.
I'd encourage you to do a saturation sweep in Calman and post that result too with your settings. I know that you mentioned that you prefer oversaturated colors, but it would be good for others to understand the impact of your CMS settings if they are going to try your settings.
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post #568 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 11:22 AM
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Samsung PN60F5300 calibration settings? (look at third image attached)

this is in game mode and with lower contrast settings (and no 10-pt controls) but is a pretty good indicator of general gamut performance with custom mode defaults on my set (and I used native gamma as reference when taking these saturation sweeps so any gamma errors have been compensated for in these readings)

Last edited by PlasmaPZ80U; 08-17-2014 at 11:30 AM.
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post #569 of 1061 Old 08-17-2014, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
I'd encourage you to do a saturation sweep in Calman and post that result too with your settings. I know that you mentioned that you prefer oversaturated colors, but it would be good for others to understand the impact of your CMS settings if they are going to try your settings.
Also, I might do a full CMS cal once I'm 100% happy with gamma.
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post #570 of 1061 Old 08-18-2014, 09:58 AM
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I'm curious, to those owners of this set who have calibrated it with a D3/C6/i1 Display Pro/ColorMunki Display (basically D3 family of meters) what kind of black level numbers did you get? (both A and B models, without voltage tweaks or other mods)

Mine goes no lower than 0.005 fL with Cinema Smooth off, 1080/60p signal. And I have the C6 meter.

I'm particularly interested in B models and A models newer than mine (mine is october 2013 build). Also, it might be useful to hear from those with many hours on their set (in case black levels settle down a bit after many hundreds to thousands of hours of use).
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