Panasonic TC-P65S60 Gaming Settings? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Custom calibrates identical to Cinema once you put the same values in and turn off any unwanted crap. The only difference being the main Color control needs to be 3 clicks lower (46 in Cinema vs. 43 in Custom).

No difference in green ? Chad tried to do Cinema for my night mode but found an issue with green that would have been visibile. Might be something specific to ST60 I guess

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post #32 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicFlair View Post

I read a few reviews that say the infinite black panel is only on the higher end models and the s60 doesn't touch the blacks of the st60?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post

I've read the contrary and Lee confirmed that his measurements on both sets were very close. The ST60 is bit brighter and offers better contrast, but in a dim room you probably wouldn't notice much difference.


Ian

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1496085/panasonic-tc-p65s60-gaming-settings#post_23872229

The difference should be not more than 0.0005 fL (which is very minor visually), due to the ST60's infinite black pro vs. the S60/S64's infinite black. The pro version of the black filter is a bit darker. Viewing these TVs in the typical store environment makes the ST60 look leaps and bounds better (due to the AR filter and added brightness of the ST60), but once you calibrate both and match light output and gamma, they should be more alike than different. CNET's review of both sets shows this, though the black levels are too high for both sets in those reviews, which likely means the measurements were taken in less than ideal conditions (IR and ambient light being possible factors).


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post #33 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

No difference in green ? Chad tried to do Cinema for my night mode but found an issue with green that would have been visibile. Might be something specific to ST60 I guess

Cinema



Custom



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post #34 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post

I can't speak for him, but under controlled lighting, bot sets are remarkably close. If you don't have the need for an AR filter, 3D or smart TV apps, it's
probably worth the savings.

Sorry, never had the need for one. Chad B and DNice travel all over, but they don't come cheap. I usually suggest getting a good calibration disc like the one from Spears & Munsil. They provide plenty of info and test patterns to help you tweak the settings and get the most out of your set with out a pro calibration, which is usually more cost effective on the more expensive sets.


Ian

pretty much, I couldn't justify the extra $400 or so and as a serious gamer, the input lag of the ST60 was a bit bothersome (even though many claim it doesn't matter)


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post #35 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:29 AM
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Thanks looks pretty close, I will have to get some more info from Chad as to what type of error he saw with green on my set.

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post #36 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post

I've read the contrary and Lee confirmed that his measurements on both sets were very close. The ST60 is bit brighter and offers better contrast, but in a dim room you probably wouldn't notice much difference.


Ian

I looked at the Reviewed.com site and saw the ST60 and S60 reviews. Under the 'science' tab I found this:



However, the S60 review doesn't specify what happens to the picture past the red line.



Also, under the ST60 review I read:

We calibrated the P60ST60 in the Cinema picture mode. We bumped up Contrast from its default of 75 to 100; Brightness was left at 0; Color was left at 50; Tint was left at 0; and Sharpness was reduced from 50 to 0. We also turned off all post-processing and motion smoothing settings, and kept Panel Brightness at its Low setting. The Medium and High settings caused red-tinting in the lower steps of the greyscale, and their effect on overall luminance was not poignant enough to justify the aforementioned skewing.

Does he mean steps under 5% gray? On my 50", 21-pt grayscale is fine (but this won't show what happens under 5% gray).





Since you are in contact with Lee, I wonder if you can find out more about these two things.


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post #37 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I looked at the Reviewed.com site and saw the ST60 and S60 reviews. Under the 'science' tab I found this:



However, the S60 review doesn't specify what happens to the picture past the red line.



Also, under the ST60 review I read:

We calibrated the P60ST60 in the Cinema picture mode. We bumped up Contrast from its default of 75 to 100; Brightness was left at 0; Color was left at 50; Tint was left at 0; and Sharpness was reduced from 50 to 0. We also turned off all post-processing and motion smoothing settings, and kept Panel Brightness at its Low setting. The Medium and High settings caused red-tinting in the lower steps of the greyscale, and their effect on overall luminance was not poignant enough to justify the aforementioned skewing.

Does he mean steps under 5% gray? On my 50", 21-pt grayscale is fine (but this won't show what happens under 5% gray).





Since you are in contact with Lee, I wonder if you can find out more about these two things.


You can email him direct at Lee@reviewed.com. It will probably take a few days for him to respond.


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post #38 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 02:21 PM
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How are you liking the set for gaming? Have you noticed any IR?
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post #39 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eifer View Post

How are you liking the set for gaming? Have you noticed any IR?

great picture and I don't notice any input lag

I get IR mainly from channel logos and only see it on the PS3 menu at night or when running the screen wipe and it passes over the IR. I haven't noticed IR for gaming and I did play quite a bit of Crysis 2 on the X360 a week or two ago.


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post #40 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eifer View Post

How are you liking the set for gaming? Have you noticed any IR?

I've gotten some very persistent IR on my set from playing Diablo 3 and no other games. I did have some marathon sessions but always varied my content a bit. I must have put about 50-80 hours and one part of the HUD unfortunately is not fading as fast as I hoped. As a result I've stopped playing that particular game, but still have been gaming with other games.


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post #41 of 51 Old 10-25-2013, 08:12 PM
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What pixel orbiter settings do you have on?

(I think that's what it's called on Panasonic? Called Pixel Shift on Samsung.. it moves the picture a few pixels at a set time).

My folk's 2010 Sammy can move 4 pixels every minute.. I've never noticed it and it seems to basically make any IR really short term, I've gamed marathons, my family has left stuff on for hours (TV guides, DirectTV menus, etc) and IR seems to go away after 30-40 minutes at most and it's only been noticeable on full black stuff (loading screens, etc).. this was true even for torch mode which my parents liked to use for sports.

I think the default on it was 1 pixel every 10 minutes, so maybe you can check and see if you can increase it.
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post #42 of 51 Old 10-26-2013, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtangletn View Post

What pixel orbiter settings do you have on?

(I think that's what it's called on Panasonic? Called Pixel Shift on Samsung.. it moves the picture a few pixels at a set time).

My folk's 2010 Sammy can move 4 pixels every minute.. I've never noticed it and it seems to basically make any IR really short term, I've gamed marathons, my family has left stuff on for hours (TV guides, DirectTV menus, etc) and IR seems to go away after 30-40 minutes at most and it's only been noticeable on full black stuff (loading screens, etc).. this was true even for torch mode which my parents liked to use for sports.

I think the default on it was 1 pixel every 10 minutes, so maybe you can check and see if you can increase it.

mine is on 'auto'... when I leave it in the 'on' position, it seems to hurt 1:1 pixel mapping (such as with the sharpness and overscan test pattern on the AVSHD709 disc)


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post #43 of 51 Old 10-26-2013, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I've gotten some very persistent IR on my set from playing Diablo 3 and no other games. I did have some marathon sessions but always varied my content a bit. I must have put about 50-80 hours and one part of the HUD unfortunately is not fading as fast as I hoped. As a result I've stopped playing that particular game, but still have been gaming with other games.

some games let you dim, turn off, or 'auto-hide' the HUD (Splinter Cell Blacklist has the auto-hide option... I've just started it)


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post #44 of 51 Old 10-28-2013, 06:47 PM
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How is the tv working for daytime viewing? I really like all the reviews of this set and the black levels look amazing, though I do worry about having to have the room dark to get the best picture.
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post #45 of 51 Old 10-28-2013, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mxpx5678 View Post

How is the tv working for daytime viewing? I really like all the reviews of this set and the black levels look amazing, though I do worry about having to have the room dark to get the best picture.

fine at daytime in the room with curtains shut and no overhead lights on... I still use my bias light though

the set would probably do fine with moderate lighting as well, as long as you prevent light hitting the screen directly, such as from a lamp or open window


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post #46 of 51 Old 10-28-2013, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

fine at daytime in the room with curtains shut and no overhead lights on... I still use my bias light though

the set would probably do fine with moderate lighting as well, as long as you prevent light hitting the screen directly, such as from a lamp or open window

I never understand these responses for plasma. With the curtains shut and no overhead lights on how is that even different from night time?
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post #47 of 51 Old 10-29-2013, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by angle_theory View Post

I never understand these responses for plasma. With the curtains shut and no overhead lights on how is that even different from night time?

the curtains don't block all light (they're not that thick and aren't very dark)... so, while the room is on the dim side, it's still a lot brighter than at night

and my last 3 TVs were all LCDs and I did the same thing in terms of viewing conditions


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post #48 of 51 Old 11-25-2013, 12:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,

 

Any thoughts of having the contrast at 100 for the 1st 10-12 hours by mistake? I'm already seeing ghosting and some IR from gaming. Super pissed!

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post #49 of 51 Old 12-10-2013, 09:21 PM
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PlasmaPZ80U,

 

Great settings! Only thing I changed on my new "floor model" was setting to warm 1. Had it set to cinema and with every step I made to yours my eyes got wider and wider. For me, this is the best setup I've tried so far. No comparison to cinema or anything else I've seen on here so far.

 

Thanks man!

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post #50 of 51 Old 03-23-2014, 05:06 PM
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It,s a shame no one could answer your question, I am seeking the same answers.
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post #51 of 51 Old 03-24-2014, 01:28 PM
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Me too basically. PS4 using HDMI. 65S64.

I need to understand what settings I need to apply in the PS4's menu settings, as well as the 65S64's settings.

Like RGB range for example. Well I just need to get an understanding of all the proper settings while gaming on this set. I should have done this by now though. (I mean, I think I understood it when I originally got the set, but then I changed some settings and now I draw a blank again on how everything is supposed to be setup.)
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