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post #91 of 127 Old 01-05-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

CNN? ESPN? Football all day Sunday? A 3-hour Premiere League match with score up for 50~ minutes straight per half?
Watched college bowl games all day on New Years, no noticeable IR on my ZT60.
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post #92 of 127 Old 01-05-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

CNN? ESPN? Football all day Sunday? A 3-hour Premiere League match with score up for 50~ minutes straight per half?

Not to mention seventeen straight weeks of commercial-free NFL RedZone for seven hours at a time.

Dat bottom line ticker...
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post #93 of 127 Old 01-05-2014, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Is there a question in there somewhere? smile.gif I think you are wondering how long you should keep the new TV over in the corner running slides, right? After reading tons of posts and based on my own experience with a 55VT60, start using the new TV NOW! Forget the slides. All slides do is make it more convenient to put initial hours on your TV-THATS IT. So, if you work, you can start the slides and go to work knowing that at least 8 hours of a variety of images will accumulate without IR or burn-in. That is ALL they do, period.

So, you can do the same thing (and enjoy your TV) by simply watching it.

This particular aspect of plasma ownership was one of the reasons I started this thread. I urge everyone to read this thread from the beginning. I think it addresses some of the mysteries that have sprung up around our plasmas....

Yeah a bit lengthy I know. My apologies for the term paper. I've never even considered the slides. Unless you you intend to use D-Nice's settings exclusively I can't see doing that. I'm running full screen movies in a repeat loop. It's a nice way to run controlled content to the TV. I guess the real issue is whether or not such break-ins or trying to watch content that always fills the screen without any lingering logos, crawls, etc. really help cut down on the kind of IR that tends to not disappear that readily. If they do, how many hours before you can ease up and start watching whats out there. There's far more "risky" content than ideal content in the real viewing world.. Given my experience with my ST30, I'm choosing to be more cautious this time around. It looks like I'll have anywhere from 80 - 90 hours logged with ideal content before going to "normal" viewing but there are posts from professionals and videophiles alike citing hour totals of anywhere from 100 to a thousand or more. Is there a true sweet spot or any definitive evidence that a specific range of break-in hours actually helps?
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post #94 of 127 Old 01-06-2014, 06:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cal1981 View Post

Yeah a bit lengthy I know. My apologies for the term paper. I've never even considered the slides. Unless you you intend to use D-Nice's settings exclusively I can't see doing that. I'm running full screen movies in a repeat loop. It's a nice way to run controlled content to the TV. I guess the real issue is whether or not such break-ins or trying to watch content that always fills the screen without any lingering logos, crawls, etc. really help cut down on the kind of IR that tends to not disappear that readily. If they do, how many hours before you can ease up and start watching whats out there. There's far more "risky" content than ideal content in the real viewing world.. Given my experience with my ST30, I'm choosing to be more cautious this time around. It looks like I'll have anywhere from 80 - 90 hours logged with ideal content before going to "normal" viewing but there are posts from professionals and videophiles alike citing hour totals of anywhere from 100 to a thousand or more. Is there a true sweet spot or any definitive evidence that a specific range of break-in hours actually helps?

That's okay but a paragraph once in a while would help. No offense, man....just a little humor.
In answer to your last question, of course not. And the reason? Because so much on here is opinion with very little objective science or tech foundation. Me being me, I decided to just research it myself by Googling and then hopefully summarize it in this thread so others could digest it more conveniently than wading thru thousands of pages of other peoples' experience.

Bottom line: 300 hours is about the consensus for when you can jump out of break-in mode and just watch TV. But again, what's that based on? Not much as it turns out. The technology is that the construction of plasmas requires some amount (who knows) of use before the phosphor components "mature" to the point where they won't get "stuck" in one position based on static content (IR or burn-in). This is only my interpretation. I urge you to Google the topic outside of this forum. In 15 mins. you will learn what it really means. Then you can reach your own conclusion about how to proceed.

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post #95 of 127 Old 01-06-2014, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

That's okay but a paragraph once in a while would help. No offense, man....just a little humor.
In answer to your last question, of course not. And the reason? Because so much on here is opinion with very little objective science or tech foundation. Me being me, I decided to just research it myself by Googling and then hopefully summarize it in this thread so others could digest it more conveniently than wading thru thousands of pages of other peoples' experience.

Bottom line: 300 hours is about the consensus for when you can jump out of break-in mode and just watch TV. But again, what's that based on? Not much as it turns out. The technology is that the construction of plasmas requires some amount (who knows) of use before the phosphor components "mature" to the point where they won't get "stuck" in one position based on static content (IR or burn-in). This is only my interpretation. I urge you to Google the topic outside of this forum. In 15 mins. you will learn what it really means. Then you can reach your own conclusion about how to proceed.

Thanks Scott. It all does seem to have elements of black magic and apocryphal tales doesn't it. Oh, well the set goes "live" tonight with around 85 hours and I'll just have be try to be careful about what I watch for a little while. Within two years or so we may all have OLEDs sitting in our homes anyway smile.gif
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post #96 of 127 Old 01-06-2014, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cal1981 View Post

Thanks Scott. It all does seem to have elements of black magic and apocryphal tales doesn't it. Oh, well the set goes "live" tonight with around 85 hours and I'll just have be try to be careful about what I watch for a little while. Within two years or so we may all have OLEDs sitting in our homes anyway smile.gif

Cool. I'd be interested to hear what you think of the new one compared with your previous set.
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post #97 of 127 Old 01-09-2014, 02:56 AM
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Hi Guys I just purchased the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 Plasma and I cant seem to find on here the proper Break in procedure and reference settings to set it to after the 100 Hr or 150 Procedure ?
I Purchased the Kuro about three years ago and found a excellent thread on here telling me exactly what to set the settings to while the slides are running for the 150hr and it really broke in the screen perfectly !
I looked all over here and cant find a thread that tells me exactly what to do for the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 Break in procedure ?
I still have the 20 Slides and setting for the Kuro but I don't know if that is proper colors to use with the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 I know the panel's are very different ?
The set was really expensive and I want to make sure I break it in correctly..
Is someone could help or point me to the correct thread to do this I would very much appreciate it.
This is an amazing website but sometimes it can be very hard to find the right thread.
Thanks is advance !
Steve
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post #98 of 127 Old 01-09-2014, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stevekelso View Post

Hi Guys I just purchased the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 Plasma and I cant seem to find on here the proper Break in procedure and reference settings to set it to after the 100 Hr or 150 Procedure ?
I Purchased the Kuro about three years ago and found a excellent thread on here telling me exactly what to set the settings to while the slides are running for the 150hr and it really broke in the screen perfectly !
I looked all over here and cant find a thread that tells me exactly what to do for the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 Break in procedure ?
I still have the 20 Slides and setting for the Kuro but I don't know if that is proper colors to use with the Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 I know the panel's are very different ?
The set was really expensive and I want to make sure I break it in correctly..
Is someone could help or point me to the correct thread to do this I would very much appreciate it.
This is an amazing website but sometimes it can be very hard to find the right thread.
Thanks is advance !
Steve

The reason you can't find specifically what you are looking for is because there is no hard and fast break in procedure with settings. Please read this thread from the beginning and you will see what I mean......Scott

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post #99 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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This started over in the general Panasonic plasma thread but I wanted to post it here too as its more specific to calibration. This morning, I entered the settings at http://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65vt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-settings?utm_campaign=website&utm_source=sendgrid.com&utm_medium=email
and here's my initial reaction:

Okay, I dutifully entered the S&V settings for the VT60. I heartily recommend doing it if you are bored. It teaches you attention to detail, manual dexterity and patience. The only change I made, which will considered sacrilege by some is boosted the Sharpness to 80. I like a sharp, focused picture. Just a preference. Otherwise I went strictly by what was shown in the link above for 2D.

Reactions: I need to give it some time, but right off the bat, I notice blacker blacks and something happened to reds. I want to say they are greener but I'm not sure.

Either way, this was a nice way to kill time, learn about the settings that are buried in your menus. Most importantly, you can't do any harm.
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post #100 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

This started over in the general Panasonic plasma thread but I wanted to post it here too as its more specific to calibration. This morning, I entered the settings at http://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65vt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-settings?utm_campaign=website&utm_source=sendgrid.com&utm_medium=email
and here's my initial reaction:

Okay, I dutifully entered the S&V settings for the VT60. I heartily recommend doing it if you are bored. It teaches you attention to detail, manual dexterity and patience. The only change I made, which will considered sacrilege by some is boosted the Sharpness to 80. I like a sharp, focused picture. Just a preference. Otherwise I went strictly by what was shown in the link above for 2D.

Reactions: I need to give it some time, but right off the bat, I notice blacker blacks and something happened to reds. I want to say they are greener but I'm not sure.

Either way, this was a nice way to kill time, learn about the settings that are buried in your menus. Most importantly, you can't do any harm.
Scott

UPDATE: About two hours into these settings and things are looking kinda yellowish.

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post #101 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 03:21 PM
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Reset all the detailed settings to default, turn off the CATS/enhancements, panel brightness level to Mid, Gamma to 2.4, Contrast around 80, and use a test pattern to set your brightness (min black level). Other people's settings are just random numbers for your situation, as you are finding out right now.
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post #102 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

Reset all the detailed settings to default, turn off the CATS/enhancements, panel brightness level to Mid, Gamma to 2.4, Contrast around 80, and use a test pattern to set your brightness (min black level). Other people's settings are just random numbers for your situation, as you are finding out right now.

How does this help the yellowish effect I am seeing?

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post #103 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

Reset all the detailed settings to default, turn off the CATS/enhancements, panel brightness level to Mid, Gamma to 2.4, Contrast around 80, and use a test pattern to set your brightness (min black level). Other people's settings are just random numbers for your situation, as you are finding out right now.

How does this help the yellowish effect I am seeing?

If you are using other people's settings, you have no idea what your "before" is or how the settings are changing your picture. Use Custom or Cinema, Warm 2, and the above basic settings.

Separately, it may take a while to adjust to Warm 2 / 6500K accurate color temp, which can be warm or yellowish in tone. This is how it should look. Be sure you are judging using proper neutral material such as the Disney Wow test disc patterns and sample images, not real world material (which will have its own unique lighting and color characteristics from show to show or shot to shot).
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post #104 of 127 Old 01-11-2014, 06:56 PM
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Scott, thank you for starting this thread. It's very informative.

I would be very interested to see how CNETs settings work out for you. They are really amazing on my VT60 (based on my perception and the comparison between it and the DNice settings on my VT25's). Of course, I would prefer a bit brighter, but that's the VT60's fault. I don't know if a calibration can make it brighter but I can't imagine it making the colors look better than what I have.

By the way, I have had a REAL calibration on my old RPTV many years ago so I do know what a calibrated picture looks like. DNices settings were great on both of my VT25s so I never had an official calibration. I ran slides on 2 of the plasmas that I bought new. The other was an open box buy (and a great buy) so I didn't bother.
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post #105 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Codeman00 View Post

Scott, thank you for starting this thread. It's very informative.

I would be very interested to see how CNETs settings work out for you. They are really amazing on my VT60 (based on my perception and the comparison between it and the DNice settings on my VT25's). Of course, I would prefer a bit brighter, but that's the VT60's fault. I don't know if a calibration can make it brighter but I can't imagine it making the colors look better than what I have.

By the way, I have had a REAL calibration on my old RPTV many years ago so I do know what a calibrated picture looks like. DNices settings were great on both of my VT25s so I never had an official calibration. I ran slides on 2 of the plasmas that I bought new. The other was an open box buy (and a great buy) so I didn't bother.

Thanks....I used Sound & Vision's settings, not CNETs. See above.

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post #106 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

UPDATE: About two hours into these settings and things are looking kinda yellowish.

UPDATE 2: I changed from Warm 2 to Warm 1 and this corrected what I perceived as a yellowish effect.

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post #107 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

If you are using other people's settings, you have no idea what your "before" is or how the settings are changing your picture. Use Custom or Cinema, Warm 2, and the above basic settings.

Separately, it may take a while to adjust to Warm 2 / 6500K accurate color temp, which can be warm or yellowish in tone. This is how it should look. Be sure you are judging using proper neutral material such as the Disney Wow test disc patterns and sample images, not real world material (which will have its own unique lighting and color characteristics from show to show or shot to shot).

Disagree on both counts:
* I know exactly what it looks like before and after because I change back and forth from Pro 2 to my preferred Picture Mode for comparison.

* Personally, I don't want to have to "get used" to something. Neither do I think it logical to look at any material other than what I watch on TV.

This latter point is important and why I have sometimes have a disconnect with those advocating pro-calibration; it goes right back to the very beginning of my thread: subjective vs. objective. Just because some body declares a certain color/setting/temperature "correct,' does NOT mean that is what I will favor.

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post #108 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

If you are using other people's settings, you have no idea what your "before" is or how the settings are changing your picture. Use Custom or Cinema, Warm 2, and the above basic settings.

Separately, it may take a while to adjust to Warm 2 / 6500K accurate color temp, which can be warm or yellowish in tone. This is how it should look. Be sure you are judging using proper neutral material such as the Disney Wow test disc patterns and sample images, not real world material (which will have its own unique lighting and color characteristics from show to show or shot to shot).

Disagree on both counts:
* I know exactly what it looks like before and after because I change back and forth from Pro 2 to my preferred Picture Mode for comparison.

* Personally, I don't want to have to "get used" to something. Neither do I think it logical to look at any material other than what I watch on TV.

This latter point is important and why I have sometimes have a disconnect with those advocating pro-calibration; it goes right back to the very beginning of my thread: subjective vs. objective. Just because some body declares a certain color/setting/temperature "correct,' does NOT mean that is what I will favor.


To further explain myself...

Point 1 -- By "before" and "after" I do not mean how it looks on the screen. I am referring to how your display and picture mode's greyscale and color tracking naturally align. To measure this, you need measurement equipment. For example, here are the greyscale tracking of 7 different ST60s prior to being calibrated by a professional. Plugging post-calibration settings from any one of these TVs will certainly change how your own TV looks, but it won't necessarily be "fixed," it will only look different than before. And when you try multiple settings, you are just trying multiple random number sets to see if anything seems to look better. If that's what you want to do, that's perfectly fine. Just understand what you are doing and the science behind it.

You may notice something going very wrong, such as appearing very red, indicating that you may have started with a very red picture and are using settings that are correcting a lack of red, for example. But other than that, you're just randomizing numbers until they look good. That can be fine, if you're talking changing up gamma 2.4~2.2, or changing contrast/brightness. But when you get into the gamma IRE for brightness and R/G/B balance it's all random unless you are measuring it with something.



Additionally, unless you matched up your two picture mode settings to look the same prior to inputting all of the new settings, there are likely inherent differences built into your Pro 2 and preferred mode. If you did this beforehand, great.


Point 2 -- Whatever you want to do is perfectly fine. But your comment proves the point that it takes time to get used to how an accurate picture should look. You can cycle between the Cools, Neutral and Warms, and depending on which way you go, the previous setting will look too blue or yellow.

And my point about watching and judging neutral material that doesn't have color bias, such as the skin tone and fruit/nature pictures on the Disney WOW disc is exactly because that material is neutral. When you watch any TV show or movie, it has been touched up and color corrected in some way. The color palette between CSI Miami and Mad Men and Law and Order is very different. Every different section or part of LOTR has a different color hue. You even get color differences due to cameras and lighting between Leno, Letterman, Kimmel, and Fallon. Even different sporting events because of natural vs indoor/night lighting, cameras, etc. So it is very hard to look at any of those and separate your display being too much "something" from the nuances of the source material. You said that after 2 hours the settings (particularly the Warm 2) started to seem yellowish. That could very well be the source material you are watching, combined with the random detailed picture settings you are using that could be pushing the picture more yellow.


If you only care about how something looks without caring what is correct or accurate, and without bothering to give yourself time to adjust to accurate color temp, etc., it makes me wonder why in the world you are bothering with plugging in other people's settings into your TV. In that case, why not use a test disc like Disney WOW to set the settings on your own to look pleasing to your own eyes?

What you do is up to you, but remember you're on the AV Science forums and what that actually means. Don't call your thread "calibration" if you have no intention of calibrating (measuring properly and setting the to correct picture settings for an accurate picture). What you're doing is tweaking the picture to something specific that you like, purposely going away from an accurate picture.
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post #109 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Disagree on both counts:
* I know exactly what it looks like before and after because I change back and forth from Pro 2 to my preferred Picture Mode for comparison.

* Personally, I don't want to have to "get used" to something. Neither do I think it logical to look at any material other than what I watch on TV.

This latter point is important and why I have sometimes have a disconnect with those advocating pro-calibration; it goes right back to the very beginning of my thread: subjective vs. objective. Just because some body declares a certain color/setting/temperature "correct,' does NOT mean that is what I will favor.
Hi Scott, I'm new to this thread, I have read the first page only. I agree with setting a TV to your personal preference. two thumbs up to you. A lot of people have a tough time changing the definition of the word "calibration" to meaning a picture that has been set to a viewers specifications.

here is the definition from Wikipedea. (Calibration is a comparison between measurements – one of known magnitude or correctness made or set with one device and another measurement made in as similar a way as possible with a second device. The device with the known or assigned correctness is called the standard. The second device is the unit under test, test instrument, or any of several other names for the device being calibrated.)

from most comments on the first page I think this is what some people were taking issue with. So if we change the settings in our TV to our liking.... can we call it "calibrated"? Or changed?

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post #110 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Scott, I'm new to this thread, I have read the first page only. I agree with setting a TV to your personal preference. two thumbs up to you. A lot of people have a tough time changing the definition of the word "calibration" to meaning a picture that has been set to a viewers specifications.

here is the definition from Wikipedea. (Calibration is a comparison between measurements – one of known magnitude or correctness made or set with one device and another measurement made in as similar a way as possible with a second device. The device with the known or assigned correctness is called the standard. The second device is the unit under test, test instrument, or any of several other names for the device being calibrated.)

from most comments on the first page I think this is what some people were taking issue with. So if we change the settings in our TV to our liking.... can we call it "calibrated"? Or changed?

In my reading, "calibration" or "calibrated" means the TV has been adjusted to a set of agreed-upon specifications (THX or ISF). If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.

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post #111 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

In my reading, "calibration" or "calibrated" means the TV has been adjusted to a set of agreed-upon specifications (THX or ISF). If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.

Nowhere in the world does calibration mean anything but measuring and adjusting an individual unit to make it adhere to a standard. The meaning is not specific to TVs.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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post #112 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

Nowhere in the world does calibration mean anything but measuring and adjusting an individual unit to make it adhere to a standard. The meaning is not specific to TVs.

Right. But I think we're on a TV related forum.

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post #113 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

In my reading, "calibration" or "calibrated" means the TV has been adjusted to a set of agreed-upon specifications (THX or ISF). If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.

here is a comment from another thread where you said...
"My concerns are pretty well document in a thread I started called Break-In and Calibration. In summary, for me personally, there are no "correct" settings. What is "correct" for me is what looks best to me." rolleyes.gif

I may not be on the same wave length as you, when you use the word "calibration". I will go back and read the opening of your thread again and see if I can get a better understanding. but would it be safe to say that this thread is not about "calibration" since (If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.[/quote]) and ( there are no "correct" settings. What is "correct" for me is what looks best to me. quote])

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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post


In my reading, "calibration" or "calibrated" means the TV has been adjusted to a set of agreed-upon specifications (THX or ISF). If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.

http://www.itu.int/rec/R-REC-BT.709-5-200204-I/en

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post #115 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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here is a comment from another thread where you said...
"My concerns are pretty well document in a thread I started called Break-In and Calibration. In summary, for me personally, there are no "correct" settings. What is "correct" for me is what looks best to me." rolleyes.gif

I may not be on the same wave length as you, when you use the word "calibration". I will go back and read the opening of your thread again and see if I can get a better understanding. but would it be safe to say that this thread is not about "calibration" since (If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.
) and ( there are no "correct" settings. What is "correct" for me is what looks best to me. quote])[/quote]

This thread is about deciding whether or not someone wants to do a pro-level calibration and whether or not break-in is a legitimate concept for plasma TVs. I don't know how better to explain it.

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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Thanks....I used Sound & Vision's settings, not CNETs. See above.

Scott, I know that you used Sound & Visions settings...but you also noted that you had problems with them. I also didn't like S&Vs on my set. That's why I noted that I would be interested in how CNETs settings work for you since CNETs are amazing on my VT60. If our sets are anything alike, then you will find them brighter and very pleasing.
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post #117 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Scott, I know that you used Sound & Visions settings...but you also noted that you had problems with them. I also didn't like S&Vs on my set. That's why I noted that I would be interested in how CNETs settings work for you since CNETs are amazing on my VT60. If our sets are anything alike, then you will find them brighter and very pleasing.

My apologies-I misinterpreted your post. Can you send me the link to the CNET settings for the VT60?
Sorry again, Scott

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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

In my reading, "calibration" or "calibrated" means the TV has been adjusted to a set of agreed-upon specifications (THX or ISF). If someone simply changes their settings to their liking, this is not considered calibration, at least on this forum.

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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Right. But I think we're on a TV related forum.

Look what I bolded. You're making it seem as if determining what it means to calibrate is a task that requires a lot of research and will vary depending on context. Both are incorrect. All you need is a dictionary.

This whole thread is a giant waste of bandwidth and does nothing but make a simple topic seem complex. It's really not. Either you want an accurate picture, a picture that pleases your eyes, or you don't care at all. If you want accurate, you need to have your set calibrated or DIY. If you want a picture that pleases your eyes, use pre-sets, settings found online, or throw a dice. If you don't care at all, you're probably not on AVS.

All three objectives are perfectly acceptable. End of story.
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Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

My apologies-I misinterpreted your post. Can you send me the link to the CNET settings for the VT60?
Sorry again, Scott

No problem at all Scott... Let me know what you think. I've experimented with Sharpness 0 and use Screen Full, Pixel Orbiter ON. Those are my preferences over what they have ...everything else is the same.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-592352/panasonic-tc-p60vt60-picture-settings/
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post #120 of 127 Old 01-12-2014, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Look what I bolded. You're making it seem as if determining what it means to calibrate is a task that requires a lot of research and will vary depending on context. Both are incorrect. All you need is a dictionary.

This whole thread is a giant waste of bandwidth and does nothing but make a simple topic seem complex. It's really not. Either you want an accurate picture, a picture that pleases your eyes, or you don't care at all. If you want accurate, you need to have your set calibrated or DIY. If you want a picture that pleases your eyes, use pre-sets, settings found online, or throw a dice. If you don't care at all, you're probably not on AVS.

All three objectives are perfectly acceptable. End of story.

Willie, I'm pretty sure I'm saying what you're signature thing says below each of your posts.

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