Originally Posted by showsjohn
Not at all, I find a higher sharpness to look way too coarse on this particular set. Was watching LOTR earlier with the sharpness on 30 and the outlines on the foliage were noticeably overblown, had to take it way down to smooth out the image.
Agree. See some of my comments on Sharpness below.
Sorry for the delay in responding to your previous post, showsjohn, but it's been awhile since I played with some of the features on this model, and needed to reacquaint myself with a few controls. I should also mention that I don't currently own one of these TVs, so I'm mostly goin on memory here (with some help from the online manual and CNET).
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast
I hope you used a pattern and blue screen to set color and tint.
Yes, it's usually a good idea to upgrade firmware, unless the early adapters report problems.
Many people with meters and calibration software can get these sets pretty close to "perfect."
So yours either needs better (real) calibration, or you're used to the type of picture you had, which maybe you can match and maybe you can't.
Agree with pretty much all the above. But there are some basic steps you can probably take to initially get closer to something decent, without a CMS.
If you've already made tweaks to various picture settings and want to start over from a clean slate, you can RESET the display back to it's factory defaults in the Support/Self Diagnosis menu. That'll probably also erase any channels that've been scanned/saved though.
I actually sort of liked the Game Mode on this display, but that only works with external sources, and may not include some of the advanced color settings. So I recommend beginning with the Movie
Mode. The default settings in that mode are a pretty good starting point for adjustment. I believe these are the Movie mode defaults (or close to them)...
Cell Light: 20
Picture Size: 16:9
All of the above settings are somewhat source-dependent. And you should adjust the Cell Light setting to something which is comfortable for your eyes, given your particular viewing habits. 20 might be ok for a fairly bright room, but probably too bright for a darker room, where something in the mid or lower range might be a little more reasonable. The higher you set Cell Light, the greater the risk of burn-in as well, when the TV is new.
Sharpness is also somewhat subjective and content-dependent. In theory, you shouldn't really need any added sharpening on HD sources on a TV like this, especially because alot of video content already contains some edge-enhancement. However, the subpixel addressing on the display can make the picture appear a little softer, particularly in a horizontal direction, so some sharpening (say, in the 5-20 range) might be desirable to counteract that. SD sources might also need a bit more sharpening to enhance what little detail may be there. I don't think you'll need much more than 20 on HD sources though.
In addition, I'd recommend using the "Screen Fit" Picture Size rather than the default "16:9", unless you want to use the Pixel Orbiter to help reduce the appearance of IR/burn-in, or if you see "garbage" along the edges of the image,... in which case, set it back to "16:9".
I recommend the following Advanced Settings...
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Black Tone: OFF
Flesh Tone: OFF
Color Space: CUSTOM or AUTO
Gamma: -1 or -2
Motion Lighting: OFF
The Color Space and White Balance controls in this menu can't really be accurately adjusted without a CMS (or a good D65 reference). So I recommend leaving those alone for the time being.
If you change Gamma to -1 or -2, as suggested above, then you may also need to tweak the basic Brightness setting to keep shadow details from being crushed. Lowering Gamma to -1 or -2 will give the picture a richer, more dimensional appearance than the default Gamma of 0 though, which is why I recommend the above values.
If you don't have a calibration disc handy to help out with Brightness adjustment, then you can probably use the black bars on widescreen "letterboxed" (ie ~2.35:1 aspect ratio) Blu-ray or DVD movies to tweak the Brightness.
While the movie is playing, raise the Brightness control until you begin to see random specks (dithering) in the black bars. Then lower the Brightness until you get to the setting were all the random specks are gone from the black bars.
You might want to try this with a couple different letterboxed movies, to verify that the setting is correct. Generally speaking, the black bars on letterboxed movies should be pretty close to reference black (Y'=16). But there can be some variation on this from movie to movie.
(SIDENOTE: If you watch a lot of widescreen ~2.35 ratio movies at high Cell Light settings when the TV is new, you may get some permanent burn-in the middle of the screen. Zooming the picture so it fills more of the screen may help reduce the chances of that.)
I suggest the following Picture Options...
Color Tone: WARM1
Digital Clean View: OFF
MPEG Noise Filter: OFF
HDMI Black Level: NORMAL
Black Optimizer: DARK ROOM
The Dark Room Black Optimizer setting will cause some slight fluctuations in the brightness of shadow detail, but it will make the blacks deeper on all-black and darker scenes. If you're not a fan of "floating blacks" though, then you may simply want to turn the Black Optimizer OFF.
If you have a player that supports 24p output, then you might also want to try the Cinema Smooth feature in the Film Mode setting to reduce judder.
Also, In the System/Eco Solution menu, turn both the Energy Saving feature and Eco Sensor OFF.
The most important changes to your settings above are probably the Movie Picture Mode, Gamma of -1 or -2, and Warm1 Color Tone. The White Balance also needs to be adjusted on these displays for better accuracy though.
The 2-Point White Balance controls should be sufficient for most users. Unfortunately, I didn't get around to making any tweaks to that when I had one of these units on hand. And haven't had the chance to research what other users are doing. So I can't recommend any settings for that yet.
There will always be some variation from TV to TV as well, which is why I don't generally recommend copying other users' White Balance settings (esp. the 10-Point controls). There are probably some general assumptions that can be made about the direction the adjustments need to go though from others' pre/post-calibration graphs.
If you want to try the Game Mode (in the System/General menu), the only change I would make above is to the Color setting. My recollection is that the default of 50 is too high for both the Game and Standard Picture modes, and it needed to be reduced to around 44. This may be somewhat source-dependent though, which is why it's a good idea to get a calibration disc to help out with these settings. You can probably find more info on those in the Calibration forum.
All you really need to accurately set the Color and Tint on these displays is a color decoder test that looks something like this...
You would use the RGB Only feature in the Advanced Settings to display only the red, green or blue subpixels on the TV. And then adjust the Color control until the visible color bars or swatches are the same brightness. When you have the Blue Only mode enabled, for example, the Blue, Magenta, Cyan, and White bars should all look the same color and brightness. The same principal applies to the Green Only, and Red Only modes.
Unfortunately, this is a step that alot of CMS users skip in their calibrations. And they will often end up trying to compensate for too much or too little color saturation in their other color settings, like the OP. (It appears to me that his Color setting is too high for the Standard Picture Mode, and it looks like he's trying to rein the color saturation back using the Color Space settings, which is not a good strategy imo.)
If you can't get the colors to appear more or less identical in each of the RGB Only modes, then that could indicate a color decoding problem on your video player/source device (which is quite common). The Tint setting generally shouldn't need any adjustment from it's defaults of 50/50 btw.
I can't remember whether Game Mode stores it's own distinct picture settings btw, or if it uses (shares) the settings in the Standard Mode. But you would need to re-enter all the above settings in one or the other to get the same results in Game Mode as in the Movie Mode.
If you still feel like the color on the display lacks punch after making all the above adjustments, then you could try increasing some of the Custom Color Space values to give the TV more of a "wide gamut" look. The color probably won't be as accurate, but if you like very saturated colors, using the Color Space settings is a better way to go imo than simply boosting the basic Color control (which would take the display's color decoding out of proper adjustment).
Last but not least
, don't watch the TV in a totally dark room. Try to keep at least a couple lamps on to either side of the display. That'll help to make the blacks look deeper, and reduce eye-strain.