Samsung PN51F5300 – What a little gem! - i1Pro Calibration results inside - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 726 Old Today, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ADU View Post
I haven't really noticed much transient image retention (IR) on these displays, but they are HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE TO PERMANENT BURN-IN, esp. when brand new, and esp. when using higher Cell Light settings.

Cell Light controls the brightness of the TV's menu system. And the higher it's set, the greater the chances are the menus will leave permanent burn-in. So don't linger in the menus too long, esp. when Cell Light is set high. And try to keep pillarboxed, letterboxed and windowboxed content to a minimum for at least a few months, or zoom it in so that it fills the whole screen. You've been advised.
My experience has been the opposite. Short-term IR occurs in seconds (and goes away in seconds) but I've played console games with static HUDs for long periods regularly (and when I do finish a long gaming session and decide to watch a movie I might see some IR that lasts somewhat longer from the game but when I finish up the game (after playing it for anywhere from a few days to a few weeks) and start playing a different one, the IR from the first goes away pretty quickly.

So, to sum up the above, this TV has very short-term IR that goes as quickly as it comes and then it has the potential for more persistent IR which only goes when you stop displaying the content that caused it and move to different content (at which point it completely goes after a few hours or a few days depending on how long what caused it was displayed and how bright/opaque the HUD/static element was).

Also, I always use cell light 20 since the pro calibrator Doug Blackburn mentioned lowering cell light from max increases ABL activity (makes it more aggressive). I use a contrast setting of 90 or so since that's the highest that doesn't discolor WTW on a test pattern (makes it color shift badly when set higher than 89-90 in standard/game mode).
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post #722 of 726 Old Today, 09:24 AM
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I don't use pixel shift by the way, since it's disabled when picture size is set to screen fit. Also, the S60 I had before this set was much worse with IR when the pixel orbiter was off. It had IR that lasted for weeks caused by content displayed for only 2-3 hours max ONCE (and was still faintly visible after those weeks, despite using pixel flippers, screen washes, etc.) I never had to do anything like that with this set and honestly I treat it like an LED-LCD and have had no issues related to IR in 1,800 hours of use (bought it in January and have played countless games since then).
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post #723 of 726 Old Today, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
I don't use pixel shift by the way, since it's disabled when picture size is set to screen fit. Also, the S60 I had before this set was much worse with IR when the pixel orbiter was off. It had IR that lasted for weeks caused by content displayed for only 2-3 hours max ONCE (and was still faintly visible after those weeks, despite using pixel flippers, screen washes, etc.) I never had to do anything like that with this set and honestly I treat it like an LED-LCD and have had no issues related to IR in 1,800 hours of use (bought it in January and have played countless games since then).
I was so impressed with gaming (BF4/XB1) last night for the first time on my 60" F5300 I decided to make it my primary gaming display. My only concern being burn in. Nice to hear that your experience has been so positive.
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post #724 of 726 Old Today, 09:51 AM
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I was so impressed with gaming (BF4/XB1) last night for the first time on my 60" F5300 I decided to make it my primary gaming display. My only concern being burn in. Nice to hear that your experience has been so positive.
I've been playing mainly on the X360 and PS3 (since there are plenty of games I want to max out achievements/trophies in) but I have played about half a dozen on my PS4, which have truly amazing visuals (like Call of Duty Ghosts, Tomb Raider: Definitive Edition, Killzone Shadow Fall, Infamous Second Son, Need for Speed Rivals).

I plan on getting the Xbox One in the fall since I want to play Forza Motorsport 5 and Forza Horizon 2 (not to mention upcoming Halo and Gears of War titles).

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post #725 of 726 Old Today, 10:51 AM
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ADU:

Thanks for all the feedback.

I'm running in movie mode now, which, by default, has all the dynamic BS off: noise reducer, dynamic contrast, eco sh...er, stuff, etc.

I shifted to Warm 1 immediately, before seeing anything on the forum to that effect, because it seemed like the 'Just Right' spot to me.

I have gamma at -1; based on the default settings would this be closer to 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, ??? I've never had a calibration unit, so I really don't know what I'm looking for along those lines.

Is there any reason that you go with Standard Mode over Movie mode?

The only thing I'm wavering on is the dark room setting: I turned it on last night, but it seemed like I was seeing some flickering where the dark part of the image would go lighter/darker as the camera wavered a bit. That being said, this was on breaking bad, the first season, which is not always the most pristine presentation. I need to go back and see if that is a source based issue, or if the dark room threshold is so steep as to cause that effect.

On IR/Burn-In/etc...

Wow, thanks for rekindling my latent burn-in fears Seriously though, I'll keep this in mind. I'm thinking of experimenting with lower cell light settings just to see how it affects ABL pops and overall image stabilty.

That being said, I must say that my limited experience so far is much more in line with PlasmaPZ80U's: IR occurs in seconds, but goes away just as quick. Perhaps your displays suffers less from this because you keep the cell light lower. I've noticed that nothing actually seems to affect the black screen MLL but the Dark Room Optimizer; I wouldn't mind a dimmer image, but it seems like reducing the cell light has no effect on the base black level.
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post #726 of 726 Old Today, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Now that I've had time with the menu system, I have a better understanding of how the color space values impact the color gamut. WHen I calibrate, I consider the whole color gamut, not just the 100% saturation points at the outside of the REC.709 gamut triangle.

Basically, my initial calibration put all the color saturations and hues in the right spot, but the lightness of the colors was too high.

This new calibration not only has the correct saturations and hues correct, but also the correct lightness. This one awesome set to calibrate.

One thing to note, do not touch the main color or tint controls. I found out quickly that if you reduce the main color control to bring down the color saturation at 100%, well then the 75%, 50% and 25% saturation values become WAY undersaturated. (I've seen something similar with other displays like Epson Projectors, although it works a little different)
Dan, I had a question about calibrating colors using the CMS controls on this panel. I've read through the entire thread regarding the Epson calibrations. With regards to this panel what was your calibration approach? Did you go with 100% Brightness, 75% Saturation windows for color calibration, or 100% Saturation, 75% Stimulus? Also, I presume that whatever approach you take, you basically tweak the custom white point controls for primary and secondary colors to match up xyY for all of them to whatever patches you are using for calibration (ie 100% Color, 75% Color, 75% Saturation, etc). Ultimately, do you just tweak the primaries and secondaries as best you can for a fixed brightness and saturation and then "hope" that the colors and saturations track well across the rest of the range?

Thanks for the excellent Epson tutorial and the Excel spreadsheet. I'm looking forward to calibrating my PN60F5300 over the weekend.
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