Samsung PN51F5300 – What a little gem! - i1Pro Calibration results inside - Page 26 - AVS Forum
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post #751 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
If there is a problem I might opt for repair or replacement under warranty rather than return the set.
I wouldn't count on that. Samsung doesn't acknowledge that there's anything wrong.

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post #752 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
Based on my experience, the default (factory) picture settings on the 51F5300BF are substantially improved over the AF. Perhaps I should say radically improved. The out-of-box settings on my AF model (panel US01) were tragic (judging by naked eye) in both standard and movie modes. So I plugged in the settings suggested by Dan on P.1 of this thread and found them far superior.

Two months later my AF went to that big home theater in the sky, and Samsung replaced it with a BF model (panel TS02). To my surprise, I found that the factory settings looked much better. Now I use the default presets with tweaks to contrast/brightness/color as determined using Disney WOW. (I also choose Warm 1 and Gamma -1 based on personal prefs.)

My point being: I suspect there are significant differences between AF and BF attributal to the panels installed and/or the firmware. What might be instructive for one model might or might not apply to the other.
I don't have any experience with AF models, but I do agree with your experience with the BF models. Out of box with "Auto" setting for Color Space, and minor tweaks to brightness, contrast, Warm2 and -1 Gamma, and it looks really great. I measured with my meter and it is quite good across the board! Still, with a meter you can get much better PQ. Improved gamma tracking and fixing the slightly undersaturated colors at 25-75% saturations with the 10 pt white balance and CMS adjustments makes a visible difference.

Still, I have to say that I am very impressed with how good the factory settings in Movie mode are.
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post #753 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Out of box with "Auto" setting for Color Space, and minor tweaks to brightness, contrast, Warm2 and -1 Gamma, and it looks really great. I measured with my meter and it is quite good across the board!
I really struggle with Warm 1 vs. Warm 2. I find that W2 tends to bias skin tones toward orange or green, while W1 can impart a pinkish blush. Do you find that W2 is consistently more accurate in metering?
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post #754 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 12:01 PM
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Try changing the color space to custom and picture mode to movie.
Samsung PN60F5300B Settings And What They Do

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post #755 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
I really struggle with Warm 1 vs. Warm 2. I find that W2 tends to bias skin tones toward orange or green, while W1 can impart a pinkish blush. Do you find that W2 is consistently more accurate in metering?
Warm 2 definitely tracks 6500K (D65) whitepoint pretty well on my set. Warm 1 is definitely a lot cooler/bluer as can be seen in the thread by LastButNotLeast that he linked to above. That being said, if you are seeing orange/green, are you sure you're not in Standard mode? That does not track colors as well and skin tones can be more saturated and get more orange, etc. Switch to Movie mode, with the settings I mentioned and let me know how it looks. If you have the B spec TV, it should probably look really good, but may lack a bit of pop to the image without further calibration
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Try changing the color space to custom and picture mode to movie.
Samsung PN60F5300B Settings And What They Do
I don't see why changing to custom should change anything as opposed to Auto. Assuming he's never dabbled in the custom menu, Auto and Custom would likely be the same. Agreed about Movie mode.
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post #756 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Assuming he's never dabbled in the custom menu, Auto and Custom would likely be the same.
Then why would they be two separate options?
I don't trust "auto" anything, just on general principle.
So how about changing it to "custom," okay?

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post #757 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPQ1 View Post
Can someone PLEASE post a screen shot of their service menu?? Either 51 A/B FW or 61 will suffice. Thank you very much.
How about from a PN60F5300B:

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post #758 of 1137 Old 07-28-2014, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
ADU, last week I negotiated a good deal on an open box 51F5300BF from Best Buy ... $455 tax and shipping included. So, you might want to keep an eye on BB deals in your area since you're in the market.

I made the purchase sight-unseen and deferred shipping until Aug. 2, so I have yet to evaluate the condition of the set. If it's not satisfactory, I'll just send it back. BTW, Best Buy offers full warranty and return service on open box TVs.
Thanks for the tip. I've looked at a couple of open-box possibilities, but I'm tryin to avoid them if I can. And still vacillating a little on 51F5300 or 43F4500.

The F4500 really does look pretty decent after a few key tweaks (esp. lowering Cell Light to more reasonable levels), and it fit in the back seat of my Prius C inside the box, which sort of amazed me. But it does have more SDE. Hmm...

Check the open-box F5300 carefully for burn-in, if that matters to you. I've noticed it on a lot of floor samples, and open-box units, including my current F4500. Is BB extending your return period btw, since you're deferring the shipping?

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post #759 of 1137 Old 07-29-2014, 12:38 AM
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Wink

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Originally Posted by ADU View Post
Is BB extending your return period btw, since you're deferring the shipping?
I was assured that the return period starts the day I receive the set (Aug. 2), not the date on which I bought it. If there is a problem other than cosmetic dings, I will see if I can get repair or replacement under warranty. (BB honors full mfg. warranty on open box.) Worst case scenario: I just return it to the store for full refund. I talked with a Geek Squad rep who reported that the set is in excellent condition with no IR, burn or screen artifacts of any kind ... so we shall see.

In any event, I will endeavor to file a full report on this thread.
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post #760 of 1137 Old 07-29-2014, 11:37 AM
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I haven't used it a lot so far, but I have been very happy with my 51F5300 (BF) since getting it last week from Best Buy. Great display for the money. I might have to get Chad B out to calibrate it at some point as it gets more broken in. I'll probably also add the Square Trade 3 yr warranty for $30. This display should serve my living room great as I have a dedicated room for a front projector I use for movies.

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post #761 of 1137 Old 07-29-2014, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
How about from a PN60F5300B:

Awesome. Thanks again- I can sleep a little better now. (:
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post #762 of 1137 Old 07-29-2014, 05:28 PM
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Anyone order from BestBuy.com recently? Model number is AF on the site but was wondering if that was just a holdover and they actually ship/sell the BF?
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post #763 of 1137 Old 07-29-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LJ11 View Post
Anyone order from BestBuy.com recently? Model number is AF on the site but was wondering if that was just a holdover and they actually ship/sell the BF?
I just ordered an open-box 51F5300 from BB and it was listed as AF on the website. I had a sales rep check the set for me and it turned out to be BF instead (which is what I wanted). It seems they haven't updated their listings on bestbuy.com.

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post #764 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
I just ordered an open-box 51F5300 from BB and it was listed as AF on the website. I had a sales rep check the set for me and it turned out to be BF instead (which is what I wanted). It seems they haven't undated their listings on bestbuy.com.
If you want to have a little fun at BB, ask the sales person what the difference is between the AF and BF models. I was told THREE different things by three different folks, including the manager! One said it was where the model was made; one said it was the warehouse it was shipped out of and one said it was exactly the same set, just a different order date by the store. I had to school them on reality - took a screen shot of the remotes and the model # pages from Samsung
( http://www.samsung.com/us/support/fa...PN51F5300BFXZA )...
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post #765 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by l8mdl87 View Post
If you want to have a little fun at BB, ask the sales person what the difference is between the AF and BF models. I was told THREE different things by three different folks, including the manager! One said it was where the model was made; one said it was the warehouse it was shipped out of and one said it was exactly the same set, just a different order date by the store. I had to school them on reality - took a screen shot of the remotes and the model # pages from Samsung
( http://www.samsung.com/us/support/fa...PN51F5300BFXZA )...
Just out of curiosity, other than maybe updated firmware, what is the difference? The one I got in early July is a BFXZA.
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post #766 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 01:41 PM
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Just out of curiosity, other than maybe updated firmware, what is the difference? The one I got in early July is a BFXZA.
The most notable difference is that factory picture settings on BF models are much better. (I've had both models.) Scroll up on this page (p.26) to read a more detailed discussion.

Other than that, there are some minor changes in the Picture menus/submenus and the remote is slightly different. BF models also use different panels (TS02 in mine).
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post #767 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
The most notable difference is that factory picture settings on BF models are much better. (I've had both models.) Scroll up on this page (p.26) to read a more detailed discussion.

Other than that, there are some minor changes in the Picture menus/submenus and the remote is slightly different. BF models also use different panels (TS02 in mine).
My 2014 BFX 5300's remote is identical to my 2013 AFX F4500 remote except for a different serial number and the fact that the 5300 remote has "Made in Mexico" stamped on it.

BTW Netflix HD shows and movies look phenomenal on the 5300. Just saying...
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post #768 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
My 2014 BFX 5300's remote is identical to my 2013 AFX F4500 remote except for a different serial number and the fact that the 5300 remote has "Made in Mexico" stamped on it.
Are you sure? Based on the manual downloads at Samsung, it looks like the 4500 (dated 08/09/2013) has an "HDMI" button where the "5300" (dated 02/09/14) has a "Guide" button (below the channel changer). There also appears to be a "TTX/Mis" on the 4500 where the 5300 has a "-" button (right below the 7 on the number pad). Lastly, the 5300 has a remote control light (button on the top right - there is no such light shown on the 4500. I suppose they may not have the newest version of the 4500 posted - the 5300 is just like my B model has...

Minor changes like this were also done between the A and B model of the 5300.

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post #769 of 1137 Old 07-30-2014, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
My 2014 BFX 5300's remote is identical to my 2013 AFX F4500 remote except for a different serial number and the fact that the 5300 remote has "Made in Mexico" stamped on it.
If I'm not mistaken, the AF remote had a "sleep" button where the BF remote now has a "guide" button. It's hard to remember because I use a Harmony remote and no longer have the remote from my AF model.
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post #770 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 08:04 AM
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Just got the PN51F5300 at Best Buy yesterday and am floored by the outstanding picture quality, especially after turning the ECO Sensor off. Also, with the 10% movers coupon this bad boy came out to $495 before tax!

I freaked out after watching CNN for no more than 10 minutes when I got IR of the logo in the bottom left hand corner of the screen. Ran the pixel scroller for less than a minute and that took care of it. This is my first plasma so I'm not used to IR and such. I just hope I don't have burn-in from that, but I haven't seen anything permanent as far as I can tell. No noticeable pink tint push on the bottom, either.

If anyone has any tips on how I should break it in let me know -- should I have it on Movie mode and have the contrast down to 50? Of course, I know to avoid 4:3 programming, still images, letterbox, programming with tickers, etc and just watch full HD content, but was kind of surprised I had IR that fast. Maybe I was just freaking out, but considering this is my new home theater TV, I want to make sure it's in pristine condition. Do I need to do the slides? Don't plan on having it professionally calibrated but probably just using WOW or something.
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post #771 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Terp03 View Post
If anyone has any tips on how I should break it in let me know --
My advice: Use Picture Size 16:9 during break in, and enable Pixel Shift. Screen Fit offers the best possible resolution but disables the pixel shifting option. Why, I don't know.

I think it's safe to break in your set using the default (factory) settings for Movie mode as long as you stick to full-screen programming for the first 200 hours or so. When I watch 4:3 cable TV I generally switch Picture Size to Zoom1, to get rid of the side bars.

With HD channels like CNN that display bright, persistent logos you might be able to zoom the logos off screen using your cable box options. (Zoom1 and Zoom2 are not available with HD sources.) Resolution will be compromised but you won't have to worry.

Don't fret too much about short term IR ghosts. Those artifacts will disappear without any intervention on your part ... as long as you don't leave static content on the screen for hours.
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post #772 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 01:00 PM
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Honestly, the main things you should be worried about are logos/huds/desktops. I've watched a pretty wide variety of content at this point -- window boxed, letter boxed, 4:3, etc -- and have noticed IR from differing aspect ratios goes away very quickly, even with feature length material.

OTOH, I've had slightly more stubborn IR from my windows desktop, even though I never leave it up for more than a minute or two. Even then, a couple minutes of the scrollbar wipes that away...or, I can just watch something.

In short: don't bother with wrecking the image out of worry (contrast at 50 is probably a very bad idea). Tweaking the cell light down a bit can be helpful if your are in a dark room; I'm fluctuating between 15 to 18. Basically, the lower you set it, the more stable the image will be; however, it will reduce the 'pop' of low APL, high contrast scenes.

I'm lucky in a way: I don't watch broadcast TV or sports, I don't play games much anymore, and I would never use this screen as a monitor (way too big even if it didn't burn in).

I watch at night, in blackout conditions. I use an htpc, so I don't need more hdmi ports...in fact, I already have 1 more than I need. I like a dumb TV; my computer is plenty smart enough (often, it seems smarter than me).

The one thing that does happen on this display, and, from what I've read, all samsung plasma's, is that mid to high APL scenes tend to cause blacks to rise. I've found this to be the biggest annoyance with this display. It happens the most with fullscreen (16:9) content; I've seen this in breaking bad where brighter interior shots will wash out noticeably in dark areas.

Also, you can sometimes see this black level 'pop' as the camera moves around: this is most prevalent with handheld footage; again, I've seen this on breaking bad a lot. Turning dark room optimizer off reduces this, but doesn't eliminate it. The only other things that tame it are to turn cell light down, and/or to shrink the image so it is windowboxed (not a good idea to do all the time).

Anyway, I know that last bit may sound bad, but even in worst case scenarios, this tv looks better than an LCD; and most of the time, it clobbers them. Movies tend to be less of an issue, as many are in cinemascope, have lower overall apl, and tend to have a steadier image (not as many brightness fluctuations). Just watched Wim Wenders documentary Pina last night, and while the rising blacks were noticeable in places, I never once saw any brightness fluctuation, nor did the image seem particularly dim, even in the brightest shots.
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post #773 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikwasi View Post
Screen Fit offers the best possible resolution but disables the pixel shifting option. Why, I don't know.
If the pixels shifted, the edge of the image would be exposed. 16:9 has a little overscan to prevent that.
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post #774 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
If the pixels shifted, the edge of the image would be exposed. 16:9 has a little overscan to prevent that.
Of course! That seems obvious to me now that you pointed it out.
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post #775 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 10:31 PM
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So I got a PN515300AF at BB delivered about ten days ago and it looks fabulous. I have no dead pixels and no uniformity issues. No pink push and no green line. Should I just consider myself extremely lucky?

Also my out of the box adjustments 16/17 cell light, 90 contrast, 49 brigthness, 25 sharpness, color space native look considerably better than the first post settings. I tried them and they literally take a ton of the blue out of the picture. They end up making content look extremely washed out and undersaturated. I think that setting the b offset and b gains so low just gives me really low saturation points. I'm going to keep playing with them this weekend, and possible try his settings without the extreme b offset and b gain adjustments and see if that improves stuff for me. I actually tried his settings twice and the second time I put his b gain/offset settings in last and I literally watched the color drain it off the TV. Then I put on boardwalk empire and scenes in it were so washed out they almost looked black and white at times! So I'll keep playing around with it and report back.

Weird thing was my receipt from BB said it was a BF, but the serial on the back is AF. Registered at Samsung, but it didn't offer me an extra 3 months warranty like others have reported. Also, does anyone have a link where you can purchase this square trade 3 year warranty? BB offered one for over 150 and I balked, since that was more than 1/4 of the purchase price.
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post #776 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 11:10 PM
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Does anyone know if the pn51f5300 is 30 or 60fps?
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post #777 of 1137 Old 07-31-2014, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason27104 View Post
Weird thing was my receipt from BB said it was a BF, but the serial on the back is AF. Registered at Samsung, but it didn't offer me an extra 3 months warranty like others have reported. Also, does anyone have a link where you can purchase this square trade 3 year warranty? BB offered one for over 150 and I balked, since that was more than 1/4 of the purchase price.
I bought my Square Trade warranty from Amazon: LINK

Edit: Under the Support menu go to Software Update and check your firmware version. If the side note reads "Current Version 1003" you have a BF model. Any other firmware version would indicate AF.

Last edited by Nikwasi; 08-01-2014 at 12:43 AM.
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post #778 of 1137 Old 08-01-2014, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason27104 View Post

Also my out of the box adjustments 16/17 cell light, 90 contrast, 49 brigthness, 25 sharpness, color space native look considerably better than the first post settings. I tried them and they literally take a ton of the blue out of the picture. They end up making content look extremely washed out and undersaturated. I think that setting the b offset and b gains so low just gives me really low saturation points.
Same with my A series. I noticed a little too much blue, not horrible, in standard mode, but warm went to green. I moved the cell light down to 15 and noticed that leaving it at 17 was the sweet spot.
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post #779 of 1137 Old 08-01-2014, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason27104 View Post
So I got a PN515300AF at BB delivered about ten days ago and it looks fabulous. I have no dead pixels and no uniformity issues. No pink push and no green line. Should I just consider myself extremely lucky?

Also my out of the box adjustments 16/17 cell light, 90 contrast, 49 brigthness, 25 sharpness, color space native look considerably better than the first post settings. I tried them and they literally take a ton of the blue out of the picture. They end up making content look extremely washed out and undersaturated. I think that setting the b offset and b gains so low just gives me really low saturation points. I'm going to keep playing with them this weekend, and possible try his settings without the extreme b offset and b gain adjustments and see if that improves stuff for me. I actually tried his settings twice and the second time I put his b gain/offset settings in last and I literally watched the color drain it off the TV. Then I put on boardwalk empire and scenes in it were so washed out they almost looked black and white at times! So I'll keep playing around with it and report back.

Weird thing was my receipt from BB said it was a BF, but the serial on the back is AF. Registered at Samsung, but it didn't offer me an extra 3 months warranty like others have reported. Also, does anyone have a link where you can purchase this square trade 3 year warranty? BB offered one for over 150 and I balked, since that was more than 1/4 of the purchase price.
Uniformity issues on the 51" are very rare, however it is widespread with the 60". So no, you are not lucky to have a good 51"! Lucky that you got a great set, yes, but because it doesnt have pink whites, no!

I too found the OPs settings ( on my BFX model) to give really light blacks that crushed pretty bad and a washed out looking pic. I made some adjustments and they look much better.
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post #780 of 1137 Old 08-01-2014, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
Does anyone know if the pn51f5300 is 30 or 60fps?

600Hz subfield refresh. Actual panel is 60fps.
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