Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

Not much I guess. Just being picky looking for the perfect solution. I guess I need to decide.

I did not notice it on movies. Just menus and photos.

set YKNOFS1 D back to 112 and do another reset
then leave it there and wait a few days before making the final decision.
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post #272 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 11:28 AM
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Ok making sure I do this right because the guide says there should be at least one error when the clear commands are sent. I do not get any errors on the screen or in the dialogue box of KuroControl.

I get into the service menu and I type in the commands. They all seem to go through acording KuroControl. I shut the service menu and power off the tv. Then unplug for 5 min. That's where I'm at now.

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post #273 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
 
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great!
i got one error for the "MTB side" or what it was.
no errors is even better.

just enjoy the tv now smile.gif

Edit:
the error i got was with CHR "Clearing data of the hour meter of MTB/MR side"
"Clear the hour meter of screen display of MAIN NG"
i dont know what it is
Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

They all seem to go through acording KuroControl.

if the commands shows up on the red boarder of the service menu then they went through
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post #274 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 12:28 PM
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My 500M shows no messages like that. I checked the hours and they cleared so I'm assuming the commands went through.

The television screen is the retina of the mind's eye.
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post #275 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 02:51 PM
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Cable put away. Laptop goes back tomorrow. Back to blacks that some people will not believe.

Gonna let this sink in for a while and enjoy. smile.gif

The television screen is the retina of the mind's eye.
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post #276 of 1415 Old 01-20-2014, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

Cable put away. Laptop goes back tomorrow. Back to blacks that some people will not believe.

i agree
its crazy!

but we who has them knows.

i must borrow a Klein K10 meter to get numbers of the blacks.
the i1 Display Pro is out of range.
0.002Y cd/m2 as lowest

Klein K10:
"Measuring Range: 0.00002-2919 fL; 0.00006-10,000 nits (candelas per square meter)"
it should be able to read them wink.gif
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post #277 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 05:34 AM
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Ice,

I was reading the red tint thread a bit and you mentioned this . . .
Quote:
thanks man!
now we have sorted it out.

need to test some more first
i will add RSTP to the guide

we now officially rename the problem to "Black Rain"

Edit:
that was the ONLY problem i had after the reset
now its gone.
need to measure the blacklevel and other stuff first to see if they are the same.

I did not adjust this setting. Am Isupposed to change it?

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post #278 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

Ice,

I was reading the red tint thread a bit and you mentioned this . . .
I did not adjust this setting. Am Isupposed to change it?

Only if you got sparkles
You will get back the red tint if you raise it to much.
Read the following posts.

You will get paranoid if you continue to read that thread wink.gif
I read the first 20 pages yesterday and what a mess.
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post #279 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 07:13 AM
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Ok thanks. I noticed a bit of black rain in regular programming. On the top of the screen fro a split second last night.

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post #280 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

Ok thanks. I noticed a bit of black rain in regular programming. On the top of the screen fro a split second last night.

Maybe you need to raise some values more than i need.
You need to test it out on your Kuro.
Every kuro is different and i cant give you the exact settings on yours.
You can try to raise RSTP some and also S1D.
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post #281 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

I have a question guys. I'm running through test patterns now and everything seems right minus what a pro like D-Nice can get out of this TV. I did notice on a blank input waiting for a signal that usual step down in black the the initial look had red tint to it. Once it steps down to an insane black level I don't see it. Is it something I should tweak to get rid of because a setting is wrong? Otherwise it's been fun watching the TV again.

Hi vidpro,

Been away again recently and havent had time to watch my own Kuro nevermind read about them but back to normal again thank goodness lol.

Good to read your Kuro behaving black again smile.gif

It definitely is normal on start up to have things like slight melting redish or blackish running paint looking stuff on its three step (drop) to MLL sequences (alhough on the monitors that isn't on a blank input, like the tv's (alhough still very dark indeed) , a black pattern or material for the true mll on the monitors.. Yes... Thats when these m's do their thang wink.gif) - just the panel driving voltages kicking into
gear again after the initial power on relay on the start up screen. This 500M doesn't do that but my 3 previous 500A's did to varying degrees. But its just the luck of the draw and nothing to be concerned about.

:thumbsup:

:edit:

What was your initial ABL factory default settings ?... Mine are all 126 (perhaps 50VS/HZ is 129 i'm not sure i would need to check again as i cant remember... But 50HZ isn't relevant for US material - only really relevant to European broadcast (some).

Anyway each to their own but i wouldnt go raising RSTP. There are safer methods - playing with a reference voltage (independent per display) like that one (isn't) going to work long term. Artefacts are to be expected after resets but there are ways safer than RSTP.
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post #282 of 1415 Old 01-21-2014, 08:38 PM
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Can a 5020 be accessed through kuro control via rj45?
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post #283 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 12:00 AM
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I write from Italy.
About a year ago I ran partial reset (only Pulse Meter + Hours Meter) on my 8G Kuro (5080) with 6.700 hours of life.

My Black after the reset: Y in 0 IRE 0.017 cd/m2



Two days ago I performed a full reset, according to the guide. No magenta misfires, no black rain, everything OK. No change voltage settings.

I measured Black with the same probe (i1DisplayPro).

This is the result: Y in 0 IRE 0.005 cd/m2



This is my Reset experience. I am very happy!
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post #284 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

Maybe you need to raise some values more than i need.
You need to test it out on your Kuro.
Every kuro is different and i cant give you the exact settings on yours.
You can try to raise RSTP some and also S1D.

I'm going to let it marinate a bit more and keep an eye on it. Anybody notice the black rain effect lesson over time?

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post #285 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Hi vidpro,

Been away again recently and havent had time to watch my own Kuro nevermind read about them but back to normal again thank goodness lol.

Good to read your Kuro behaving black again smile.gif

It definitely is normal on start up to have things like slight melting redish or blackish running paint looking stuff on its three step (drop) to MLL sequences (alhough on the monitors that isn't on a blank input, like the tv's (alhough still very dark indeed) , a black pattern or material for the true mll on the monitors.. Yes... Thats when these m's do their thang wink.gif) - just the panel driving voltages kicking into
gear again after the initial power on relay on the start up screen. This 500M doesn't do that but my 3 previous 500A's did to varying degrees. But its just the luck of the draw and nothing to be concerned about.

:thumbsup:

:edit:

What was your initial ABL factory default settings ?... Mine are all 126 (perhaps 50VS/HZ is 129 i'm not sure i would need to check again as i cant remember... But 50HZ isn't relevant for US material - only really relevant to European broadcast (some).

Anyway each to their own but i wouldnt go raising RSTP. There are safer methods - playing with a reference voltage (independent per display) like that one (isn't) going to work long term. Artefacts are to be expected after resets but there are ways safer than RSTP.

Thanks Stu. I'm not going to worry about it. It's been so long since I had good blacks on this TV I forgot how it looked then. The best thing about the reset is I can't wait to watch movies on it again. smile.gif

I don't know what the ABL settings were. D-Nice calibrated it when I first got it so I'm sure it was different than stock.

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post #286 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimbalo View Post


This is the result: Y in 0 IRE 0.005 cd/m2

This is my Reset experience. I am very happy!

Eccellente!
Thats allmost the blacks from a stock 9G Kuro.
Forza Pioneer! smile.gif

So if im right you just cleared the meters and the blacks dropped even further with
The same voltages as before.
Was those the stock voltages from a 8g kuro you used or did you changed them with the first reset?
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post #287 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post


I don't know what the ABL settings were. D-Nice calibrated it when I first got it so I'm sure it was different than stock.

Does D-Nice change ABL settings when he calibrates peoples Kuros ?
Thats new if it is correct.
Never heard anyone mention that
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post #288 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:26 AM
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Been thinking about this whole reset thing and how the blacks drop to a point that even the best Kuro from the factory seemingly couldn't match. It seems like Pioneer could have tweaked these units even more to get what we are getting after the reset. Why? Just to leave room for the next generation?

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post #289 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

Does D-Nice change ABL settings when he calibrates peoples Kuros ?
Thats new if it is correct.
Never heard anyone mention that

I thought he did but calibration is new to me so I may be talking out of my . . . er Kuro.

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post #290 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post

Been thinking about this whole reset thing and how the blacks drop to a point that even the best Kuro from the factory seemingly couldn't match.

I think its more the age of our Kuros that allows it.
Maybe a Kuro needs 10-20k hours before it can start to work at 100% With new clean meters?
But i agree
You can clearly see that there is room for even deeper blacks with just a few changes.

The 8G kuros have RSTP at over 100
What happends if you drop that some ?
Can you have better blacks on a 8G Kuro than on a stock 9G ?
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post #291 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Zimbalo:

Can you do a test on your 8G Kuro ?
Go in under your voltages and check what value you have for RSTP.
Just do a test and drop it -20 -30 and measure the blacks again with your i1Display pro.
Post the new values for your blacks and also post if you see any artifacts in the picture.

Put RSTP back to default when you are done

That would be interesting to see what effect it has.
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post #292 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 07:27 AM
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I never changed voltages, neither the first nor the second reset.

VOL SUS 127
VOL OFFSET 138
VOL RST P 027
VOL XPOFS1 087
VOL XPOFS2 140
VOL YNOFS1 095
VOL YNOFS3 126
VOL YNOFS4 150

In 8G Kuro, YNOFS1/2/3 = YNOFS D1/2/3 - There isn't YNOFSA (= YNOFSA D)

For the second question, I don't like to experiment as a beta-tester, but this time I will make an exception.

I'll give you news.

P.S. Congratulations for your Italian language. Eccellente! biggrin.gif

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post #293 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
 
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i can see that my thoughts and what i have heard from others about the 8Gs and RSTP around 100 isnt correct.
but you can test to lower it anyway.
001 is the lowest for RSTP.

also if you want you can try to lower YNOFS1 -20
you have your default values so its no problem to put them back again.

thanks for the beta testing smile.gif

i change the guide and includes even the 8G Kuros.

btw Zimbalo:
do you think ibrahimovic will be back in Italy smile.gif?
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post #294 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post


FSA D... should be imo, the first voltage to adjust after reset - followed bu VOL SUS on an all white signal... Followed by a tweak of FS3D...And finally YKNOFS1D, which i believe is the first reset sub field.

As i'm sure everybody understands a good look (before) touching any voltages whatsoever post reset should be the order of the day

I was watching Riddick last night, which is supposed to be a perfect transfer. The only thing that bothered me was a bit of noise in the bright areas. After it was over, I was looking at a 5% window, it seems my black level has creeped up a bit, but I am over 100 hours now and don't really want to do another reset as I am getting it recalibrated on Saturday. What should I be looking for on the screen when I adjust S3D and S1D?

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post #295 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 09:33 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

The only thing that bothered me was a bit of noise in the bright areas. After it was over, I was looking at a 5% window, it seems my black level has creeped up a bit

standard questions:
what Kuro do you have and what Voltages do you have now?

also if you could define noise
was it magenta sparkles?
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post #296 of 1415 Old 01-22-2014, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

standard questions:
what Kuro do you have and what Voltages do you have now?

also if you could define noise
was it magenta sparkles?

It's a 101. Voltages are stock other than raising VOL SUS to get rid of magenta sparkles.

VOL SUS 150
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RST P 039
VOL XPOPS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 063
VOL YKNOFS1 138
VOL YKNOFS3 128
VOL YKNOFS4 149
VOL YKNOFSA 128

The noise is in sections of the bright sky/backgrounds and looks like they are moving when they should be smooth.

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post #297 of 1415 Old 01-23-2014, 04:06 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

it seems my black level has creeped up a bit, but I am over 100 hours

i can see that you have not used this guide or Stu03s recomended voltages.
dont expect any magic with just a reset and stock values.

also your RSTP is much higher than mine at 016 (stock)
if i raise it to 39 i will get very bad blacks with a red tint to them.


if you get raised blacks again only after 100 hours from the reset you have not the right voltages.
some of them needs to be lowered as you must be on the upper limit already after the reset.
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post #298 of 1415 Old 01-25-2014, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

I was watching Riddick last night, which is supposed to be a perfect transfer. The only thing that bothered me was a bit of noise in the bright areas. After it was over, I was looking at a 5% window, it seems my black level has creeped up a bit, but I am over 100 hours now and don't really want to do another reset as I am getting it recalibrated on Saturday. What should I be looking for on the screen when I adjust S3D and S1D?

Will need information than that considering i cant see your screen.

What color of 'noise' are we talking about?
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post #299 of 1415 Old 01-26-2014, 02:40 PM
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Hello guys I'm new in the AVS forum , I am writing from Italy ... I did a reset on my Lx 5090H , everything went well I did the 8 Reset HyperTerminal without receiving error , my panel had 5100 hours and begins to have the red tint on the right side . After the reset, I raised the value Vol Sus 145 to eliminate light purple dots in the center, now only problem is the delay of the black on white . Doing several tests I noticed that the Vol RSTP is the one that has the most effect on this problem , read back with the first reset ( Year 2011 ) was the parameter that was used .. What do you think of this argument? you have other solutions Vol YKNOFS1/3/4/A D ? The time now is 60 hours after the reset with only the value Sus Vol 145 the rest as it was before the reset button on my panel . These are the values ​​of my panel before reset: VOL SUS 128 VOL OFFSET 113 VOL RST P 027 VOL XPOFS1 085 VOL XPOFS2 063 VOL YNOFS1D 138 VOL YNOFS3D 128 VOL YNOFS4D 149 VOL YNOFSAD 128. I think black is necessary to eliminate the lag greatly increase the voltages because in reality the deep black that occurs after the reset is out of specification of the panel and then the lag is due to a lower voltage and the pixel is hard to turn white (tell me if I'm wrong) ... I noticed that increasing the brightness of the lag disappears about a +2 but of course you lose that magnificent black .. shame because the details with brightness at -1 are still visible. shortly headlight adjustment with the probe and will post the results. I'm sorry but there is some error of the translator:(


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post #300 of 1415 Old 01-27-2014, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Are you sure your voltages are the stock ones ?
They looks very strange.

Also you can start by doing the reset from "this" guide and use the recomended settings.
Do that and then maybe i can help you.

I cant believe some has this huge problems after the reset.
Im sitting and watching a picture that is so deep and has a contrast ratio that only the LG 55EA980W OLED TV can match.
I have an overall brightness level with ISF Nigh that equals to the same tv.(that also uses ABL Dimming)
Im also sitting and watching colors that is more lifelike than they are on that OLED tv that still has the digital look to them.
Yes i have seen that tv so im not making it up.

I have one of the best pictures in the world on my kuro atm..no bragging just facts.

Also this is the first tv that i can watch movies in a pitch dark room and still have huge contrast ratio in every scene.
Am i happy ?
You can only guess smile.gif

i dont see these problems that some of you see.
And yes im looking for picture problems all the time but i have stopped doing that recently.
I cant find any faults except some black rain effect entering the menus.
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