Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 1415 Old 03-04-2014, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
 
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ok but what us model is the same as the European LX 5090 ?
if you dont have the results i can post them
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post #902 of 1415 Old 03-04-2014, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

ok but what us model is the same as the European LX 5090 ?
if you dont have the results i can post them

I am not sure. I only have US Models in my program, so if there is a US equivalent to your display, then it is supported.
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post #903 of 1415 Old 03-04-2014, 03:29 PM
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So all I need is that cable and program? If so I'll try to get one and do it to my 5020.
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post #904 of 1415 Old 03-04-2014, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

So all I need is that cable and program? If so I'll try to get one and do it to my 5020.

Yep. I have a version that does that same thing, but the user needs to paste the command outputs manually (helpful for those that connect only via Ethernet). It was a lot of hard and tedious work - 2618 lines of code to be exact - and making sense of the service manual.

I suggest getting these:

• USB to RS232 Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RS-232-Serial-Converter-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389882111&sr=8-1&keywords=straight+rs232+serial+cable

• Straight through RS232 Serial Cable (not a null modem cable). Make sure to get the right gender.

Male to Female
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10-Feet-Straight-Through-Serial/dp/B000A7NROO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389886710&sr=8-2&keywords=straight+rs232+serial+cable

Female to Female
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HP2E/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #905 of 1415 Old 03-04-2014, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

ok but what us model is the same as the European LX 5090 ?
if you dont have the results i can post them

The 111 is the closest to mine (latest LX5090H) and shares the same service menu default values.

To match yours, find the US 50" that shares the same default service menu settings as yours.

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post #906 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 12:38 AM
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Attached is the output that my program generated in 3 seconds by querying my 101-fd. Only thing the user has to do is select the model number and COM port - the program does the rest.

PRO-101FD_03-05-2014_003358.txt 19k .txt file
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File Type: txt PRO-101FD_03-05-2014_003358.txt (18.6 KB, 23 views)
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post #907 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 01:34 AM
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Am I the only one noticing a "blooming" effect as a result of these lower black levels? Is it normal light leakage or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I only see this blooming effect on 100% white patterns over a black background (i.e. window patterns, some internal window patterns). I also see it on the internal colored window patterns, where the light leakage is the same color as the window itself. I have attached two pictures that, although they exaggerate the effect, give a good representation of what I am seeing. The blooming effect remains if I get really close to the screen and it seems like there is light leakage to the black pixels surrounding the bright window.

20140305_011724.jpg 1275k .jpg file

20140305_012025.jpg 1666k .jpg file
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File Type: jpg 20140305_011724.jpg (1.25 MB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 20140305_012025.jpg (1.63 MB, 23 views)
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post #908 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Am I the only one noticing a "blooming" effect as a result of these lower black levels? Is it normal light leakage or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I only see this blooming effect on 100% white patterns over a black background (i.e. window patterns, some internal window patterns). I also see it on the internal colored window patterns, where the light leakage is the same color as the window itself. I have attached two pictures that, although they exaggerate the effect, give a good representation of what I am seeing. The blooming effect remains if I get really close to the screen and it seems like there is light leakage to the black pixels surrounding the bright window.

20140305_011724.jpg 1275k .jpg file

20140305_012025.jpg 1666k .jpg file

On the edges of the white box I can see a hint of blue...Wether that is my OLED camera cell/mobile phone or the effects of under/over driven voltages - or simply a calibration issue at your side it's difficult to say at this moment in time...
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post #909 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Am I the only one noticing a "blooming" effect as a result of these lower black levels? Is it normal light leakage or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

never thought about it
but to be sure its the screen and not your eyes.
put up the 100% white window and hold up a tablet or a plate so it covers the window
if you see any lightleak on the edges then its the screen.
probably the glass that leaks light.

it can also be an effect of the higher contrast ratio black to white
any lightleak with those improved blacks will be even more visible than before.

maybe the 9.5 G glass is improved here?
glass glued better to the pixels.
less lightleak should mean a sharper more detailed image.
that can be it.

im looking for an LX 5090H atm
maybe this one
1239 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fmalmo%2FPioneer_Kuro_PDP_LX5090H_52152423.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url
interesting to see if there are any differences.

this one should have the 9.5 glass as well smile.gif
KRP 500A
1548 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fstockholm%2FPioneer_Kuro_KRP_500A_52294406.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url
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post #910 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post

The 111 is the closest to mine (latest LX5090H) and shares the same service menu default values.
To match yours, find the US 50" that shares the same default service menu settings as yours.

do you see these light leaks that makaveddie81 describes on your 5090 H ?
you have the improved 9.5G glass on your kuro.
maybe you can do a test with a 100% white window
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post #911 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Am I the only one noticing a "blooming" effect as a result of these lower black levels? Is it normal light leakage or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I only see this blooming effect on 100% white patterns over a black background (i.e. window patterns, some internal window patterns). I also see it on the internal colored window patterns, where the light leakage is the same color as the window itself. I have attached two pictures that, although they exaggerate the effect, give a good representation of what I am seeing. The blooming effect remains if I get really close to the screen and it seems like there is light leakage to the black pixels surrounding the bright window.

Just checked this for you on my 600m and it's pin sharp, no active pixels outside of the 100% window, no blooming.
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post #912 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 09:42 AM
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Seems the same way on mine.

 

BTW could some 111FD owner give me its ABL default settings ?

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post #913 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 10:23 AM
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My defaulT ABL was 107. I'm running it at 150 now. If I run it any higher I get a buzz on the field white screen. I tried setting it at 230 like pg_ice. The screen was so bright and vivid but the tv buzzed like crazy.
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post #914 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

My defaulT ABL was 107. I'm running it at 150 now. If I run it any higher I get a buzz on the field white screen. I tried setting it at 230 like pg_ice. The screen was so bright and vivid but the tv buzzed like crazy.

you can try raise VOL SUS to get rid of the buzzing with higher ABL.
if you cant get rid of it you can try this. (at your own risk!)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1361871/official-pioneer-kuro-reddish-tint-problem-thread/1530#post_24158263
mine was screaming like insane before i adjusted the pots.
now its the regular low noise buzzing again.

the transistors screams because they get the wrong voltage.
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post #915 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 10:58 AM
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Thanks pg_ice

I already have the vol sus at 185 to help with the misfires in white field and moving pixel.
if I raise it any higher i get random green dots on a 0IRE black field.
Unfortuanately I can't get rid of the misfires in moving dark to light pixels.
Hopefully adjust the pots will help with that.
When I get a chance I really want to get the TV off the wall and try to adjust the pots.
The TV looks amazing with the ABL at 230.
Have you seen any issue with burn in after raising the ABL?
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post #916 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

never thought about it
but to be sure its the screen and not your eyes.
put up the 100% white window and hold up a tablet or a plate so it covers the window
if you see any lightleak on the edges then its the screen.
probably the glass that leaks light.

it can also be an effect of the higher contrast ratio black to white
any lightleak with those improved blacks will be even more visible than before.

maybe the 9.5 G glass is improved here?
glass glued better to the pixels.
less lightleak should mean a sharper more detailed image.
that can be it.

im looking for an LX 5090H atm
maybe this one
1239 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fmalmo%2FPioneer_Kuro_PDP_LX5090H_52152423.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url
interesting to see if there are any differences.

this one should have the 9.5 glass as well smile.gif
KRP 500A
1548 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fstockholm%2FPioneer_Kuro_KRP_500A_52294406.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url

Mine definitely has 9.5G glass. Its a fact that was told to me by D-Nice when he first calibrated my display. Plus, its an early build (September 09). I'll perform your suggestion to determine if it is light leak, but I don't remember seeing it before. I'll play around with different combinations of voltages (along with default) to see if anything changes.
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post #917 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Hitman- View Post

Just checked this for you on my 600m and it's pin sharp, no active pixels outside of the 100% window, no blooming.

Did you try in a pitch black room?

Try with the colored window internal patterns. It's much more obvious on those.
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post #918 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

Have you seen any issue with burn in after raising the ABL?

if you have VOL SUS already at 185 you should adjust the pots.
after that you can lower VOL SUS to around 128 again.

if you are going to adjust the pots they can be different on yours and have different names.
VS ADJ can have another name.

no burn in here.

ABL at 230 is great
if you use ISF Night with ABL at 230 you will get almost no dimming at all.
exactly the same as an LCD LED that doesnt dim.
and exactly like the movie producers wanted you to see the picture with all its light changes.

still some dimming with ISF Day but much less.

IF there should be a way to disable ABL completely the Kuro should have a max power consumtion around 1500W rolleyes.gif
now its only around 700w
you can see why ABL is there smile.gif
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post #919 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Did you try in a pitch black room?

Try with the colored window internal patterns. It's much more obvious on those.

It was a black room, i'll try the colour windows in a bit man.
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post #920 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 12:37 PM
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Pretty sure my 500 has parts that were going into the tenth generation.

September 08 module/panel with November 08 build. Number 0537 off the production line to be exact.

It is very responsive to RGB low tweaks if that makes sense
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Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

try this
Lower Y SUS B and X SUS B at the same amount to see if it helps to get rid of the IR problems.
112 is the lowest
128 default

Didnt seem to do anything really. I have SAD up 40 now. The magenta is gone. I can lower RST to 10 now and they dont come back.

Spoke too soon. Everything back to stock except f1 plus 30. It seems to be the only one that help, as well as raising RST-P but it seems to raise black level, but i may have no choice at this point.
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post #922 of 1415 Old 03-05-2014, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

never thought about it
but to be sure its the screen and not your eyes.
put up the 100% white window and hold up a tablet or a plate so it covers the window
if you see any lightleak on the edges then its the screen.
probably the glass that leaks light.

it can also be an effect of the higher contrast ratio black to white
any lightleak with those improved blacks will be even more visible than before.

maybe the 9.5 G glass is improved here?
glass glued better to the pixels.
less lightleak should mean a sharper more detailed image.
that can be it.

im looking for an LX 5090H atm
maybe this one
1239 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fmalmo%2FPioneer_Kuro_PDP_LX5090H_52152423.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url
interesting to see if there are any differences.

this one should have the 9.5 glass as well smile.gif
KRP 500A
1548 $
http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blocket.se%2Fstockholm%2FPioneer_Kuro_KRP_500A_52294406.htm%3Fca%3D12%26w%3D3&act=url

Its definitely light leakage or active pixels that shouldn't be active. I put a tablet over the green window internal pattern and the leakage can clearly be seen. I see a round halo on the ps3 play icon that's displayed on the bottom left corner of the screen that doesn't go away even if I cover the icon with my hand.




I tried changing voltages, ABL, as well as picture settings up and down to no avail. Really bummed about this since my panel is now equivalent to a local dimming full array LED.
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post #923 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 02:43 AM
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makaveddie81

It's really ******* weird your issues. Are you absolutely sure it's not a trick of the eyes on your part.

As it's not really a normal effect of plasma display tech to have blooming.

Plasma has the ability to fire each pixel independently so the blooming of say an consumer grade LED LCD with roughly 500 plus zones/clusters of LED's that have no other option but to bloom (unless) until there is a blank signal. "0MLL".

Don't understand why this could be the case with plasma - imo it's just the Pioneer Kuro's absurd unbeaten contrast ratio looking like it is blooming - but it has to spill out somewhere... Especially small white areas surrounded by black that is as good as off (if) operating to full potential
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

makaveddie81

It's really ******* weird your issues. Are you absolutely sure it's not a trick of the eyes on your part.

As it's not really a normal effect of plasma display tech to have blooming.

Plasma has the ability to fire each pixel independently so the blooming of say an consumer grade LED LCD with roughly 500 plus zones/clusters of LED's that have no other option but to bloom (unless) until there is a blank signal. "0MLL".

Don't understand why this could be the case with plasma - imo it's just the Pioneer Kuro's absurd unbeaten contrast ratio looking like it is blooming - but it has to spill out somewhere... Especially small white areas surrounded by black that is as good as off (if) operating to full potential

When looking at it from a distance, it looks like its just light thats being emitted by the bright object. But, upon closer inspection, the "black" areas surrounding the bright object have a glow thats the same color as the object itself. The glow doesnt go away if I cover the bright object, so its not light reflection. The surrounding pixels are glowing. The ps3 play icon is the biggest culprit, as there is always a circular halo surrounding it (even though its a triangle shape).

This defect only went away when I increased brightness to the point where the black background turned grey.

I dont think theres anything I can do to fix this. Only thing is to hope it goes away with time.

Has anyone else that has reset or tweaked their displays experienced this? The room has to be pitch black in order to see it and its more visible with the colored window internal patterns.
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post #925 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

When looking at it from a distance, it looks like its just light thats being emitted by the bright object. But, upon closer inspection, the "black" areas surrounding the bright object have a glow thats the same color as the object itself. The glow doesnt go away if I cover the bright object, so its not light reflection. The surrounding pixels are glowing. The ps3 play icon is the biggest culprit, as there is always a circular halo surrounding it (even though its a triangle shape).

This defect only went away when I increased brightness to the point where the black background turned grey.

I dont think theres anything I can do to fix this. Only thing is to hope it goes away with time.

Has anyone else that has reset or tweaked their displays experienced this? The room has to be pitch black in order to see it and its more visible with the colored window internal patterns.

I genuinely cannot remember that after any of the six time reset 500A that I sold on when it was fixed.

But I will when I get back look at the PS3 play icon in a blacked out room on my "normally" operating 500M with YKNOFS4 of course at 139 nowadays wink.gif to see if I can somewhat replicate the effect with normal 500m/101 user menu settings - and phone camera (only camera i have actually) settings perhaps
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Thats bad.
Gravity with its whites and blacks must look crap with this leak.
Or?
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post #927 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

I genuinely cannot remember that after any of the six time reset 500A that I sold on when it was fixed.

But I will when I get back look at the PS3 play icon in a blacked out room on my "normally" operating 500M with YKNOFS4 of course at 139 nowadays wink.gif to see if I can somewhat replicate the effect with normal 500m/101 user menu settings - and phone camera (only camera i have actually) settings perhaps

Try the colored windows internal pattern masks as well.
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post #928 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

Thats bad.
Gravity with its whites and blacks must look crap with this leak.
Or?

Ill check it out tonight.
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post #929 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 10:56 AM
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I checked the color windows 75% and 100% stim and I do see half lit pixels on the edge of the window but this is normal (transition from the color to 0 black) and only on dark colors like red and blue all other colours are perfect, no blooming on anything.
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post #930 of 1415 Old 03-06-2014, 09:55 PM
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Big ups to ShockFett for talking me off the ledge. Turns out the halo effect is light reflection due to the high contrast ratio of my tweaked Kuro. His three Kuro's and ZT have the same behavior (and so does my OLED Samsung Galaxy S3). Halo effect goes away when I get uber close to the screen (same behavior on my Galaxy S4) while the effect is increased the farther away I am from the screen. It also is greatly reduced if contrast is reduced to single digits.

Not sure why I didn't notice the effect until now.
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