Originally Posted by Stu03
Well good luck with that.
But if you are unable to fix it then a engineer with appropriate experience of plasma displays will be able to adjust it correctly for you with the appropriate equipment in less than thirty minutes, without having to replace any components.
It's all just correct voltage adjustments at the end of the day, that's all it takes.
When i reset my 500A nearly two years ago now i spoke with someone on the phone who offered to come and fix it/adjust for me. But i was unwilling to shell out £200/$400 at the time as i was in the process of buying things for the flat after having just moved from Edinburgh.
That was for white misfires near black, as that was what was troubling me and the only artefact left over everything else was fine but after a couple of handy and helpful tips, i was able to work it out for myself, with a lot of patience and practice.
But tbh that was a perfectionists view - because it was only visible from less than a foot - in a pitch black room.
But anyone who has ever done this will understand that it is difficult to leave alone afterwards. Even when it's ten times better, clearer and with far more pop than when the panel was displaying red tint before the reset.
I have come to the conclusion that the IR and dithering that I see only on an all black screen is a result of the pulse meter not being in line with the actual age of the panel. I have zero artifacts with regards to purple or green sparkles and zero black rain when displaying menus, since my voltages are pretty much where they need to be. While there is a way to get voltages in line with the panel's age (by following the panel replacement flowcharts in the service menu with some modifications) there is NO way to manually adjust the pulse meter to be in line with the panel's age.
When a panel is replaced, a reset of the pulse meter is mandatory, as per the service manual. This takes care of one layer, as resetting the pulse meter brings it in line with the brand new replacement panels age - ZERO. The service manual then instructs to go through the voltage checks flowcharts (and recovery flowcharts if corrections are necessary) to ensure that voltages are set correctly, thus eliminating any sparklies.
When a reset of the pulse meter is performed without replacing the panel, then there is no way to match the pulse meter with the panel's age, other than replacing the panel with brand new one, though sparkles and black rain can be removed by adjusting voltages. I have tried increasing VOL SUS and RSTP and the IR and dithering remain, though their effects are not visible on regular content, only on an all black screen. Increasing RSTP to the point where my black level rivals and LCD is simply hiding the dithering and does absolutely nothing to remove the IR.
There is a reason why the service manual and well known Kuro experts agree that that the pulse meter should NOT be reset unless the panel is replaced. Its a lesson I learned the hard way, though am glad that my panel looks as good as stock when displaying content.
I believe those who are reporting reset success stories chalk it up as a success simply because their red tint is gone and they have managed to get rid of sparklies with voltage adjustments without knowing the ugly mess that lurks when displaying an all black screen (especially after having a greyscale window up for a couple of minutes). Not singling anyone out. I am guilty of the same, as I initially though my display was back to stock after resetting and voltage adjustments, only to discover the IR and dithering upon much, much closer examination.
If you believe reset is completely safe, then why not reset your current Kuro? I think there is an underlying reason why you sold your previous Kuro that you are not sharing. Why do I know this? Because I will be selling my 101fd if the digital board swap doesn't work. I will share the panel's history with prospective buyers because, like I said, it looks like a stock 101fd with regular content and the IR and dithering are only visible after very close inspection and are a rare occurrence.
Originally Posted by D-Nice
I think you need to come to terms that your PDP module is out of spec in relation to it's aging and the driving software and there is nothing you can do about it unless you either get a brand new PDP module or decrypt the firmware and regards resequence the pulse counter to be in line with your current panel age.
Form what I've gathered, the digital board stores information such as hours, max temp, power on count and pulse meter data. Replacing my current board with a board from a panel whose usage hours are close to mine is a way to get the pulse meter back in line (or close) with my panels age. All speculation at this point, but worth a shot, since board only cost 50 bucks.