From my Kuro... YES! You can fix this, and after another 100 hours they have not increased. I have tweaked my panel to the point of a tiny red haze along the bottom but I will work on removing that properly when I have more time to play with the voltages.
My current settings for the PDP-LX5090 with 12,500 hours (enormous, I've had Panasonic PZ80s with less; I had a 46" for about a year with under 5k hours before upgrading, but was getting distracted by LCD-like black levels):
VOL SUS = 155 (from 128)
VOL OFFSET = 140 (unchanged)
VOL RST P = 009 (from 031)
VOL XPOFS1 = 085 (unchanged)
VOL XPOFS2 = 045 (unchanged)
VOL YKNOFS1,2 D = 015 (from 143)
VOL YKNOFS3 D = 110 (from 128)
VOL YKNOFS4 D = 170 (from 128)
Effects of each:
VOL SUS = LOW - Dead pixels, magenta tint, darker image, HIGH - Sparklies, brighter image, sweet spot is slightly higher for bright image
VOL OFFSET = Low/High causes dead pixels (unsure exactly how) usually green dead pixels
VOL RST P = MLL/Red tint and pixel discharge initialisation, with low RST P pixels can fade in on dark scenes with high RST P the MLL goes through the roof
VOL XPOFS1 = Unsure, but think related to Ve/Vzbias on Panny/Samsung/LG, if so will affect IR, erase time and MLL however have not played much with it
VOL XPOFS2 = Unsure again but maybe 2Ve on Panny/Samsung if so has similar effects to XPOFS1
VOL YKNOFS1,2D = Y-init voltage for 1st & 2nd subfields, affects black detail, red tint and can cause black rain
VOL YKNOFS3D = Y-init voltage for another set of fields, affects black detail, too LOW causes magenta tint, too HIGH causes extreme loss of detail, sparklies, IR, affects red tint too
VOL YKNOFS4D = Appears to help counter some effects of low YNOFS3D, can affect red tint
I did NOT adjust the YNOFSAD - you can fix red tint this way however it is rather unsatisfactory because you may see black rain before you adjust too far as in my case. And I did NOT reset any pulse or hour counters, doing so is very foolish IMHO!
The Kuro manual indicates the YKNOFSADs should be adjusted equally - however this is not a requirement and will not damage the panel or boards if they are adjusted individually. Adjusting individually gives you a lot more freedom. The panel on my TV is now so dark the bezel blends with the panel even with all lights out. You can put your eye to the panel and see the glow just about. I might be able to hit the milestone of zero MLL if I can deal with a slight magneta dead pixel problem - need to play around a little more with voltages. I did have essentially zero MLL at one point but too much problem with motion - dead pixels everywhere on scrolling scenes etc.
Anyone in the local area (Leeds) I can borrow/rent a light meter off I'd be interested. I'd like to see what my ANSI contrast can reach with more tweaks.
OOB, 9G Kuro achieves something like 30,000:1? Since 9.5G and 9G are identical panels just different drive, I think I can achieve >60,000:1. Final goal being stable 100,000:1 contrast on ANSI pattern, >100,000:1 black to 5% white window. Full field MLL below 0.0005cd/m^2 and 90cd/m^2 white.
Last edited by tom669; 07-22-2014 at 03:24 PM.