Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide - Page 52 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1531 of 1858 Old 02-13-2015, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
This gets more pathetic by the minute makka and you really should get a grip as it's becoming desperate on your part.
You ignoring FACTS being presented to you straight from the service manual and failing to address them (and claiming you know better than the service manual) is the frustrating and pathetic aspect of this conversation.

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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Me having to waste my time arguing with someone who points fingers - because he can't accept he is incapable of completing an adjustment after a reset. Isn't losing an argument.
Still going on and on about me "blaming" people, when I specifically owned up and said I had no one else to blame but myself for resetting my display. Sigh. You're grasping at straws and focusing on past events to avoid having to face the music of being called out for being dead wrong and exposed as a fraud. It's pathetic coping mechanism.

By your broken logic, then you were incapable of tweaking a panel properly since you ended up with artifacts galore after blindly adjusting your voltage offsets. Then, you resorted to reset and, after realizing the reset had done more harm than good, quickly sold it to someone who had never seen a properly working Kuro in his life. Two can play this game.

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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
And stop quoting **** out of a service manual that you know nothing about either, because it's getting right on my nipple ends.
Seems to me that you, your hack "calibrator" and your hack "tech" are the ones who can't comprehend the information in the service manual. You repeatedly state that resetting the Kuro's pulse meter without replacing the panel is safe when the service manual specifically states to only reset the pulse meter when the panel is replace. Let's not forget you and the other two stooges completely butchering what EEPROM is and its function. Here it is again, in all its glory, for the public to see again:

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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Oh dear.

What a shame.

Let me put it another way. When i reset a couple of logs for a serious case of red tint. My calibrator said never to touch eeprom, in fact he said (it will brick) the panel. A guy who is paid by manufacturers to go teach stuff to their employees. But i suppose him, and what i was told by another with years of experience working for Pioneer are both lying are they. Get over yourself.
Please read the below excerpt from page 189 of the 101fd/500M service manual and tell me how in the world you can reset logs/counters/meters without, as eloquently put by your calibrator buddy, "touching eeprom".



As you can hopefully see, hour meter, pulse meter, power on counter and power down/shut down history (the logs that you most likely reset... you definitely reset the pulse meter) are all stored in the digital and sensor boards in eeprom type memory (already educated you on what eeprom memory is and how the Kuro stores configuration in the digital board and sensor board a few posts back so hopefully you're all caught up on that). So, by your calibrators logic, you "bricked" your panel by resetting those counters.

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And jeez, i can't believe i wasted all that data on you sending all these service manuals to your e-mail, all of a year ago now
I actually found them on http://elektrotanya.com/ before you even sent them. Let's not forget you sent them to me because you were intrigued by some of the things I was disclosing to you at the time.

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What nonsense i was thinking at the time is anyone's guess, your question weeks later about the 60VS after me sending you all of these manuals should have set the alarm bells ringing.
That was years ago when I barely got started on this. Even you were a noob at one point, Stu, and I can easily go back and quote you when you first started exploring resets and asked people why your numbers were different than theirs (when they owned different models than you LOL).

Another difference between me and you is that I'm not afraid to ask about something I have no clue about. You on the other hand would rather make it all up and attribute false information to imaginary techs and calibrators than to admit ignorance on a subject, just like you did with the EEPROM manure.

This is going nowhere and I'm done with this discussion. But, you better believe I'll set you straight again if you bash the tweak again (a method you couldn't perform properly) or irresponsibly suggest a reset to an unsuspecting Kuro owner.

P.S. Can't wait to see you claim the restore point and EEPROM lessons as your own on the European forum. Who knows, maybe I'll pay you and pg_ice a visit on your turf.
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post #1532 of 1858 Old 02-13-2015, 06:47 PM
 
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The only thing you are "winning" here, is the argument for who has the longest and most mindless posts :thumbdown:

I'm sure anyone in their right mind is bored reading this stuff/arguments now. The drama you're trying to create for your own 'credibility' is long time boring now, and it's anything, but, amusing.

I mean i'm bored senseless with it myself. :banghead:

Perhaps something constructive to say would be more apt...

Here's a question for you makka, what is your opinion on full black mode in the service menu for instance ?.

:Edit:

In fact scrap that.

I tell you what, I'm coming over to the US in a few months for what you would call a vacation. US is a big place, but perhaps you could show me exactly how your Kuro (or Kuro's) are performing if we happen to be in any realistic vicinity.

Ps.

Don't tell me what to do on a reset thread.

Last edited by Stu03; 02-13-2015 at 07:06 PM.
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post #1533 of 1858 Old 02-14-2015, 03:02 AM
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move on please: consider taking this to PM
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please take the high road in every post
if you see a problematic post, please do not quote it or respond to it: report it to the mods to handle
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post #1534 of 1858 Old 02-15-2015, 07:44 PM
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There is SO much info here. I just did my firs attempt and had a lot of success. Blacks are inky as ever, no more red tint but I am curious on what each setting actually does and what has the biggest impact on blacks

From what I gather, it is more important to have the same spacing between S3 and S4 and they seems to have the most impact on blacks.. true?

What impact does YKNOFSA D have? I see some people lowering this, some raising it and some not touching it..

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post #1535 of 1858 Old 02-16-2015, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrady3324 View Post
There is SO much info here. I just did my firs attempt and had a lot of success. Blacks are inky as ever, no more red tint but I am curious on what each setting actually does and what has the biggest impact on blacks

From what I gather, it is more important to have the same spacing between S3 and S4 and they seems to have the most impact on blacks.. true?

What impact does YKNOFSA D have? I see some people lowering this, some raising it and some not touching it..
YKNOFSA D is simply there to adjust S1, S3 and S4 simultaneously by the same amount. For instance, if you reduce SAD by 20 ticks, S1, S3 and S4 will all be reduced by 20 ticks. If you then reduce S1, S3 and S4 all by 10 ticks after that, then reducing SAD by 10 ticks would have netted the same result. Me personally, I like to keep things clean, so I prefer adjusting either S1, S3 and S4 by the same amount, or only SAD but not both.

These offsets work hand in hand, but yes, it seems like RSTP and S3 and S4 have the biggest effect with blacks.
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post #1536 of 1858 Old 02-17-2015, 06:18 AM
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I know I keep promising an hour count but I've had little time to connect up a laptop. Since my last reset many many many hours ago I have had zero return of the dreaded red tint. I can say by eye the black levels have risen a bit but probably more in line when I first bought my 500M.

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post #1537 of 1858 Old 02-17-2015, 07:42 AM
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So assuming my panel is close to what the factory intended and I go into the service menu to tweak the black levels a bit, I should probably just lower SAD a bit? It's been so long since I played around in the service menu I forget what the settings were doing.

The television screen is the retina of the mind's eye.
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post #1538 of 1858 Old 02-17-2015, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by VidPro View Post
So assuming my panel is close to what the factory intended and I go into the service menu to tweak the black levels a bit, I should probably just lower SAD a bit? It's been so long since I played around in the service menu I forget what the settings were doing.
Lower RSTP ,not sure how low you can go on a reset panel , if you can get RSTP to 002 with no issues I would then lower SAD 10 to 15 clicks ,
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post #1539 of 1858 Old 02-17-2015, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by VidPro View Post
So assuming my panel is close to what the factory intended and I go into the service menu to tweak the black levels a bit, I should probably just lower SAD a bit? It's been so long since I played around in the service menu I forget what the settings were doing.
If you kept your voltages at default after reset, then the tweaking wiggle room will be little, if any, before you start seeing black rain and dirty blacks on low APL scenes.
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post #1540 of 1858 Old 02-17-2015, 05:16 PM
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sorry if it's been answered, but should i try this with my 5010fd?
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post #1541 of 1858 Old 02-18-2015, 11:06 AM
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Makka and Stu are prime contributors and clearly both very knowledgable on the Kuro. Even with the heated discussion (which is kindoff cool to read because we know that at heart they really respect each other ) there is a lot of great information. Big thanks to both of you guys. By the way my 6.5 year old (Mfr'd Jul 2008) 10k-hour Pro-151 Kuro has provided me so much viewing and tweaking pleasure over the years and despite a slight roll-off in black level performance looks bloody amazing. It still trounces most any TV I've seen for 1080p blu-ray movie content.

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post #1542 of 1858 Old 02-18-2015, 11:15 AM
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sorry if it's been answered, but should i try this with my 5010fd?
I've never tweaked an 8th generation panel, but know of some who have (using Kuro Command, link in my sig). In looking at the service manual, the commands are essentially the same, though I believe SAD was introduced in the 9th generation panels.
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post #1543 of 1858 Old 02-18-2015, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
I've never tweaked an 8th generation panel, but know of some who have (using Kuro Command, link in my sig). In looking at the service manual, the commands are essentially the same, though I believe SAD was introduced in the 9th generation panels.
thanks for the input.

the original post also cautions against performing a reset if your kuro has replacement parts. i replaced the power supply in my set a few months ago (everything else tested fine), should i still reset?

i've actually already bought a replacement for this tv so i wouldn't be devastated if my kuro stopped working, but i'd like to avoid that if i can
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post #1544 of 1858 Old 02-18-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wowsza View Post
thanks for the input.

the original post also cautions against performing a reset if your kuro has replacement parts. i replaced the power supply in my set a few months ago (everything else tested fine), should i still reset?

i've actually already bought a replacement for this tv so i wouldn't be devastated if my kuro stopped working, but i'd like to avoid that if i can
No, don't ever reset your panel (refer to the discussion between Stu and I).
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post #1545 of 1858 Old 02-19-2015, 08:01 PM
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Hi All,
Any advice for a 141FD with quite a lot of red tint (whole panel), 14,000 hours and doesn't seem to get better when lowering RSTP to 1 (red seems exactly the same). Also tried lowering SAD and this only brought on artifacts and IR.
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post #1546 of 1858 Old 02-20-2015, 09:00 AM
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Yeah sounds like you're pretty much out of luck. The high hours must be compounding the sensitivity to adjustments that the 60 inch panels are known for. Or your red tint, which has now invaded the whole screen, is too far in to be removed. I wish you would have caught the red tint earlier.

Your last option would be to reset (which I dont recommend) but you're pretty much stuck at this point. If you wish to reset as a last hurrah, please follow the below instructions when doing so. This will allow you to set a "restore point" that you can use to undo the reset. You will see tons of artifacts after the reset, so you will have to increase SAD until they go away (and your red tint mightreappear as you increase SAD, so you'll be back at square 1). You can make the SAD increase before deciding to keep the reset or revert to pre reset state in the below procedure.

Access service menu. Go to etc > digital eeprom > delete. Hold enter button for 5 seconds. Red led turns on and blue led flashes. Go to panel information screen. Digital eeprom should say no data! and backup should say adjusted. If not, restart process. Reset pulse meter or make any changes. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG). To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG).
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post #1547 of 1858 Old 02-20-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by knewknow View Post
Hi All,
Any advice for a 141FD with quite a lot of red tint (whole panel), 14,000 hours and doesn't seem to get better when lowering RSTP to 1 (red seems exactly the same). Also tried lowering SAD and this only brought on artifacts and IR.
Yeah sounds like you're pretty much out of luck. The high hours must be compounding the sensitivity to adjustments that the 60 inch panels are known for. Or your red tint, which has now invaded the whole screen, is too far in to be removed. I wish you would have caught the red tint earlier. Your last option would be to reset (which I dont recommend) but you're pretty much stuck at this point. If you wish to reset as a last hurrah, please follow the below instructions when doing so. This will allow you to set a "restore point" that you can use to undo the reset. You will see tons of artifacts after the reset, so you will have to increase SAD until they go away (and your red tint mightreappear as you increase SAD, so you'll be back at square 1). You can make the SAD increase before deciding to keep the reset or revert to pre reset state in the below procedure. Access service menu. Go to etc > digital eeprom > delete. Hold enter button for 5 seconds. Red led turns on and blue led flashes. Go to panel information screen. Digital eeprom should say no data! and backup should say adjusted. If not, restart process. Reset pulse meter or make any changes. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG). To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG).
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post #1548 of 1858 Old 02-21-2015, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Yeah sounds like you're pretty much out of luck. The high hours must be compounding the sensitivity to adjustments that the 60 inch panels are known for. Or your red tint, which has now invaded the whole screen, is too far in to be removed. I wish you would have caught the red tint earlier. Your last option would be to reset (which I dont recommend) but you're pretty much stuck at this point. If you wish to reset as a last hurrah, please follow the below instructions when doing so. This will allow you to set a "restore point" that you can use to undo the reset. You will see tons of artifacts after the reset, so you will have to increase SAD until they go away (and your red tint mightreappear as you increase SAD, so you'll be back at square 1). You can make the SAD increase before deciding to keep the reset or revert to pre reset state in the below procedure. Access service menu. Go to etc > digital eeprom > delete. Hold enter button for 5 seconds. Red led turns on and blue led flashes. Go to panel information screen. Digital eeprom should say no data! and backup should say adjusted. If not, restart process. Reset pulse meter or make any changes. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG). To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG).
Thanks makaveddie. This will definitely be helpful in "saving" my 60" if it's causing me more hassle than reverting back. The panel still looks amazing, but that red tint gets the vein on my forehead pulsating a bit. 99% of people wouldn't notice the tint, but 99% of people are happy with their LCD/LED .

So before I go ahead and do this, I'm just a bit unclear on the final part where you stated "To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds". Does this mean that I cannot perform the reset and tinker with it for a few days, and then still be able to revert back to the backup? Or can I reset the panel and still go back to the backup at a later time? (days/weeks later etc..)

I appreciate all of the help...
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post #1549 of 1858 Old 02-21-2015, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knewknow View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Yeah sounds like you're pretty much out of luck. The high hours must be compounding the sensitivity to adjustments that the 60 inch panels are known for. Or your red tint, which has now invaded the whole screen, is too far in to be removed. I wish you would have caught the red tint earlier. Your last option would be to reset (which I dont recommend) but you're pretty much stuck at this point. If you wish to reset as a last hurrah, please follow the below instructions when doing so. This will allow you to set a "restore point" that you can use to undo the reset. You will see tons of artifacts after the reset, so you will have to increase SAD until they go away (and your red tint mightreappear as you increase SAD, so you'll be back at square 1). You can make the SAD increase before deciding to keep the reset or revert to pre reset state in the below procedure. Access service menu. Go to etc > digital eeprom > delete. Hold enter button for 5 seconds. Red led turns on and blue led flashes. Go to panel information screen. Digital eeprom should say no data! and backup should say adjusted. If not, restart process. Reset pulse meter or make any changes. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG). To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds. Put tv on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote and take it out of standby (DO NOT TURN OFF OR UNPLUG).
Thanks makaveddie. This will definitely be helpful in "saving" my 60" if it's causing me more hassle than reverting back. The panel still looks amazing, but that red tint gets the vein on my forehead pulsating a bit. 99% of people wouldn't notice the tint, but 99% of people are happy with their LCD/LED .

So before I go ahead and do this, I'm just a bit unclear on the final part where you stated "To keep changes (i.e. keep reset pulse meter), go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds. To undo changes (i.e. restore pulse meter to pre-reset state), go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds". Does this mean that I cannot perform the reset and tinker with it for a few days, and then still be able to revert back to the backup? Or can I reset the panel and still go back to the backup at a later time? (days/weeks later etc..)

I appreciate all of the help...
You can tinker with it as long as you want as long as you dont unplug of turn it off. Your "restore point" is not deleted unless the set is turned off, is unplugged or goes through a power outage. You can put it on standby no problem.
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post #1550 of 1858 Old 02-22-2015, 01:32 AM
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I'm having issues with my LX5090 9G and red tint. If I lower SAD by any amount that has a noticeable effect in removing the remaining tint after lowering RSTP to 001 I get misfires on Combi Mask 7.

Increasing VOLSUS has no effect. I get really deep blacks with no red tint when lowering SAD by between 35-50 but still get misfires and dead pixels. Any advice on getting rid of the misfires? Would adjusting either XKOFS1 or XKOFS2 help?
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post #1551 of 1858 Old 02-22-2015, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegeta View Post
I'm having issues with my LX5090 9G and red tint. If I lower SAD by any amount that has a noticeable effect in removing the remaining tint after lowering RSTP to 001 I get misfires on Combi Mask 7.

Increasing VOLSUS has no effect. I get really deep blacks with no red tint when lowering SAD by between 35-50 but still get misfires and dead pixels. Any advice on getting rid of the misfires? Would adjusting either XKOFS1 or XKOFS2 help?
Dont worry about it if you dont see misfires on actual content. The internal patterns, while helpful, are a worst case scenario. Youll drive yourself crazy using the internal patterns as your only barometer.
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post #1552 of 1858 Old 02-24-2015, 12:35 PM
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You can tinker with it as long as you want as long as you dont unplug of turn it off. Your "restore point" is not deleted unless the set is turned off, is unplugged or goes through a power outage. You can put it on standby no problem.
Hmm... well this scares me a bit then. So if there is a power failure after reset and I'm in tinkering phase, it'll "lock" to the new reset values?

I guess in my case I'd like to see if the tint would go away and then I'd raise up the SAD to see at which point it would start coming back, so it would be 30 minutes at most hopefully. And if I can get the red out and a half decent looking picture in a short period of time then I'd go ahead and lock it in. From what I'm hearing though to confirm a decent looking picture would take hours/days, and these 60" sets are not very co-operative.

Last edited by knewknow; 02-24-2015 at 12:41 PM.
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post #1553 of 1858 Old 02-24-2015, 03:35 PM
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Hmm... well this scares me a bit then. So if there is a power failure after reset and I'm in tinkering phase, it'll "lock" to the new reset values?

I guess in my case I'd like to see if the tint would go away and then I'd raise up the SAD to see at which point it would start coming back, so it would be 30 minutes at most hopefully. And if I can get the red out and a half decent looking picture in a short period of time then I'd go ahead and lock it in. From what I'm hearing though to confirm a decent looking picture would take hours/days, and these 60" sets are not very co-operative.
You never mentioned whether the sparkles were seen exclusively on internal patterns or also on content?

You're going to drive yourself crazy by using the internal patterns as a barometer during tweaking. Use regular content, instead.
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post #1554 of 1858 Old 03-23-2015, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post
Lower RSTP ,not sure how low you can go on a reset panel , if you can get RSTP to 002 with no issues I would then lower SAD 10 to 15 clicks ,
So yesterday I dropped RSTP to 001 and watched a lot of content with no issue. Today I dropped SAD 10 clicks to 118. Later I'll check if it has introduced any black rain other than sitting on a black screen for minutes to see if the menu creates the effect.

I only wish I could get D-Nice here to recalibrate. I think at that point I'll have time to wait for flatter and cheaper OLED units.

The television screen is the retina of the mind's eye.
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post #1555 of 1858 Old 03-23-2015, 08:48 AM
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So yesterday I dropped RSTP to 001 and watched a lot of content with no issue. Today I dropped SAD 10 clicks to 118. Later I'll check if it has introduced any black rain other than sitting on a black screen for minutes to see if the menu creates the effect.

I only wish I could get D-Nice here to recalibrate. I think at that point I'll have time to wait for flatter and cheaper OLED units.
You should be close to 0 Blacks at this point , let us know .
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post #1556 of 1858 Old 03-27-2015, 03:54 AM
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Hi guys newbie here

I've followed the reset guide on page 1

I've reset my kuro lx5090 and tweaked the voltage settings ALL looks pretty good!

My question is "as stated in the reset guide"
After my reset and then tweak do I need to reset again?

Will this not mess up my tweaks and put me back to the beginning?

Cheers UK.
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post #1557 of 1858 Old 03-28-2015, 10:30 PM
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Hello everyone,

I foolishly reset my KRP-500m over a year ago and I've had nothing but problems since. In fact, I'm sure I will just have to look for a replacement now. The problems with my display seem to be excessive even for a reset display.

Shortly after I reset, I was messing with settings in the service menu and I cranked up ABL to a ridiculous setting, then I had the internal pattern running which was a completely white field. What happened then was that the tv would shut off and the standby light would blink red after displaying the bright white field. However, the internal pattern stayed activated and would display the white field first thing when I turned the tv on. Then the tv would immediately turn off again with the red light blinking.

I panicked and thought the power supply had failed. So I ordered a new one and replaced it. Now I notice on page one, it says that you should only do the reset on all original parts and if you have replaced anything you can run in to trouble. Maybe this is why my display is so ****ed right now?

I'd really like a fuller explanation though of why a replaced power supply would adversely affect a reset Kuro?

I've even tried replacing the Digital Board with others that have pulse counts closer to the actual age of the panel to see if that helps but it never really helps much. Has anyone else ever tried this?


I've kept my eye open but good Kuros are harder to come by. I'm only interested in the monitors, either the KRP-500m/Pro-101FD or KRP-600m/Pro-141FD. Those are NOT easy to find, at least I haven't seen them.


The TV is still watchable for the most part but the image looks less sharp than it did, shadow detail is grainy and various other problems persist. If anyone thinks they might be able to fix this one, or they need a spare Kuro for parts or anything like that, I could sell it? But I have to find a suitable replacement first of course.

I am in Southern California if anyone is interested.

Any ideas where I could locate a good working Kuro? Other than the obvious (Ebay, Craigslist) of course.

I definitely concur with those that caution against resetting these displays. The only reason to do so is if you have red tint that is so bad that you'd be forced to get rid of the tv anyway, so long term problems are no big issue. And don't mess with the ABL setting either.
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post #1558 of 1858 Old 03-29-2015, 01:29 AM
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PSU change should not affect anything if it's the same one and you reset just after.

Put all your settings back to default, RSTP to 0 and power off/on TV (RSTP should go back to the card default setting) and all your RGB + ABL settings to 500/128.

Then try this : Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide

It's important to set the RSTP back to its factory settings ASAP after rebooting the TV (careful the default card setting is not the factory one, it's the one you wrote down first before changing anything).

After finishing the process, don't panic, you WILL have artifacts espacially if the TV has over 10k hours, but most of them will disappear alone after 500hrs, do not tweak anything after the reset besides putting the RGB and ABL values to what they were on factory.

Did this on mine with 14k hrs, calibrated it and checked the results with calman colorchecker, everything under 2 dE on the 91 colors. The only thing remaining are some magenta misfires on bright scenes on some rare occasions and mostly on 50Hz, it almost never happens on 24Hz.
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post #1559 of 1858 Old 03-29-2015, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
Hello everyone,

I foolishly reset my KRP-500m over a year ago and I've had nothing but problems since. In fact, I'm sure I will just have to look for a replacement now. The problems with my display seem to be excessive even for a reset display.

Shortly after I reset, I was messing with settings in the service menu and I cranked up ABL to a ridiculous setting, then I had the internal pattern running which was a completely white field. What happened then was that the tv would shut off and the standby light would blink red after displaying the bright white field. However, the internal pattern stayed activated and would display the white field first thing when I turned the tv on. Then the tv would immediately turn off again with the red light blinking.

I panicked and thought the power supply had failed. So I ordered a new one and replaced it. Now I notice on page one, it says that you should only do the reset on all original parts and if you have replaced anything you can run in to trouble. Maybe this is why my display is so ****ed right now?

I'd really like a fuller explanation though of why a replaced power supply would adversely affect a reset Kuro?

I've even tried replacing the Digital Board with others that have pulse counts closer to the actual age of the panel to see if that helps but it never really helps much. Has anyone else ever tried this?


I've kept my eye open but good Kuros are harder to come by. I'm only interested in the monitors, either the KRP-500m/Pro-101FD or KRP-600m/Pro-141FD. Those are NOT easy to find, at least I haven't seen them.


The TV is still watchable for the most part but the image looks less sharp than it did, shadow detail is grainy and various other problems persist. If anyone thinks they might be able to fix this one, or they need a spare Kuro for parts or anything like that, I could sell it? But I have to find a suitable replacement first of course.

I am in Southern California if anyone is interested.

Any ideas where I could locate a good working Kuro? Other than the obvious (Ebay, Craigslist) of course.

I definitely concur with those that caution against resetting these displays. The only reason to do so is if you have red tint that is so bad that you'd be forced to get rid of the tv anyway, so long term problems are no big issue. And don't mess with the ABL setting either.
This is exactly the same artifacts I experienced after foolishly resetting my 101fd. These artifacts are so obvious to me that I can't fathom how some who reset their pulse meters cant see them.

Its not the replacement part that messed up your Kuro, its the actual reset that did it in. You would have gone through the same experience even if you had original parts. The replacement part advisory, like the rest of pg-ice's guide is completely flawed. Why this irresponsible guide has not been taken down from AVS is beyond me.

Your panel was shutting off because you most likely followed pg-ice's advice and raised ABL to dangerous levels. The Kuro is simply shutting off as a protective measure.

You need to reset all your settings and voltages to default. Then, put up combi mask 7 and raise SAD (or s1 s3 and s4) unil the magenta sparkles disappear. Your picture should now be at or very close to stock. If not, then repeat the process using combi mask 6.

I would never ever reset any of my Kuros even if they had red tint. You are better off tweaking below the factory minimum values. There will always be someone, mainly one specific member who resetonly ine panel, telling you that reset is fine and is totally and easily recoverable. The fact is, a reset panel may look ok after cursory inspection. But, as you experience, there are several issues that you can spot if you have a keen eye or two.
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post #1560 of 1858 Old 03-29-2015, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
PSU change should not affect anything if it's the same one and you reset just after.

Put all your settings back to default, RSTP to 0 and power off/on TV (RSTP should go back to the card default setting) and all your RGB + ABL settings to 500/128.

Then try this : Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide

It's important to set the RSTP back to its factory settings ASAP after rebooting the TV (careful the default card setting is not the factory one, it's the one you wrote down first before changing anything).

After finishing the process, don't panic, you WILL have artifacts espacially if the TV has over 10k hours, but most of them will disappear alone after 500hrs, do not tweak anything after the reset besides putting the RGB and ABL values to what they were on factory.

Did this on mine with 14k hrs, calibrated it and checked the results with calman colorchecker, everything under 2 dE on the 91 colors. The only thing remaining are some magenta misfires on bright scenes on some rare occasions and mostly on 50Hz, it almost never happens on 24Hz.
The problem is that I don't know what my pre-reset values are. I know that my RSTP defaults back to 018 if I set it to 0 and reset but after that I don't know what to set it as?
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