Originally Posted by lnarbi
Something else, for the EU owners.
Although 75Hz and 72Hz share the same white balance and ABL tables, calibration between 24Hz and 1080i50@PAL will be different.
I don't know why, but it seems pal content is handled differently, I checked this converting TED's patterns from 1080p24 to 1080i50(@25fps) with Vegas, and displayed them with the home media gallery.
My WB settings for 24Hz are RH-1 BH+4 RL-1 BL-1, and the ones for 50Hz that give around the same greyscale results are RH-3 BH+10 (!) RL-1 BL0. Quite a difference.
CMS must be touched a bit differently too, using the D65 PAL/SECAM colorspace in calman, but the only ones touched in 24Hz (Y and M for me) remain the only ones to adjust in 50Hz.
I akways wondered why my broadcast tv settings (used same as 24Hz before) were a bit off compared to blu ray or HMG with 24Hz mkvs, now I understand why
That is a very interesting observation Inarbi but I'm not sure how the WB would change depending on whether the source was 50 hz or 72/75/100 hz. What would the Kuro be doing to change it, especially the high blue as a difference of + 6 is massive! My TV viewing certainly doesn't look like it's missing all of that blue, surely that would screw up the whole grayscale? Did you notice weird stuff when watching TV as my Virgin Media Tivo looks superb with the 24 hz calibration?
I've just done another reset as the one I performed a few weeks back started bringing up the wear I have in the middle of the screen after a few hundred hours. Performing the post reset voltage tweaks really is a balancing act between black and white and I'm nearly there now I think!!
Once reset the black level is basically zero on default voltages which is understandable but then a full white screen is full of misfires because of the undervoltage.
On my experience raising VOL SUS to clear the misfires on the white screen is a bad idea, it raises the luminance and adds some weird brightness to skin tones and specific mid range colours, something about it just looks wrong.
To clear the misfires on a white screen I lower XSUS_B and YSUS_B to 123 each, this completely clears up and artifacts and does not add any weird brightness at all and peoples faces look perfect
Now black is perfect and white is perfect but the TV is still under voltage so low end gamma is far too high and black rain is very evident leading to a pretty rubbish result in very dark scenes.
Now some may say that misfires on the Internal Masks do not mean anything but I think that they do. Before I reset all the Masks were artifact free so why should it be OK to have some artifacts on a reset panel? The only Masks that have misfires on my 500A are:
PATTERN MASK 23
COMBI MASK 6 (The crazy strobe scrolling bar!)
COMBI MASK 7
To clear these Masks all I do is raise FSA D until all misfires are gone on PATTERN 23 and COMBI 7. Once these are clear (160 from 128 for me) you will find that every single Mask is clear (RASTER, PATTERN & COMBI). Now when I look at a 0% black field the black level has risen and in my case I can see the slightly uneven wear in the middle of the screen which was previously being hidden by the low voltage. To clean up the black screen I lowered RSTP from 12 to 1 and hey presto the wear disappears and the black field is clean!
So, I now have my reset Kuro with a clean white, clean black, all masks clean and by raising FSA D I have next to no black rain. Another bonus of raising FSAD is that it resolves the low end gamma somewhat and also smooths the black level so that it adds much more depth to the picture.
After 6 months of resetting, tweaking and experimenting (All of which I have loved immensely) I think that this is the final method and outcome which will stop me from tinkering, the picture is now fantastic again and yes the black level is not as black straight after a reset (zero) but much , much darker than before I reset and in a pitch black room with a 0% full field on the screen it looks like the Kuro could be off!!!
Inarbi here are my calibrated reset W/B Settings after a reset (ISF Day & Night):
RED HIGH - -2
GREEN HIGH - 0
BLUE HIGH - +5
RED LOW - -1
GREEN LOW - 0
BLUE LOW - 0