Originally Posted by mascior
You are not completely off with the "just raising VOL_SUS" logic. Let me first start of by saying, It has been a while since I've been on any of the Pioneer red tint, voltage tweak, and/or reset guide threads. I have tested many of theories and a multitude of configurations over the past 3 or 4 years. I have been running my current configuration now for the past 8 months with no issues, artifacts, sparkles, magenta lag, bright clean whites, and clean almost absent of light blacks(roughly .0002 ftl on a KRP-600M!). Now I have to put this disclaimer in due to the nature of plasma panels and there extremely lethal high voltages within. PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS METHOD UNLESS YOU ARE QUALIFIED!! This method only works if you plan on reseting your panel or currently have a reset panel. You can follow the rest guide to clear your values...however from that point moving forward almost all the rest of the adjustment are physically made within the display itself. 1) Raise the VSUS pot to 215v, 2) Raise the VADR pot to 83v, and Raise the VH pot to 150v. Now for the remaining voltages, adjust them to factory spec based on your model and/or your service manual (VOF, VRP, VX1, VX2, V1F, V3F, & V4F).
My ending values ended up being:
V3F..........116 (+20 from factory)
V4F..........163 (+20 from factory)
ABL..........178 (+60 from factory)
With this configuration I successfully cleared the following masks with no issues: MKCS01, MKCS10, MKCS15, MKRS01, MKRS02, MKRS19, MKRS23, MKSS29, MKSS30, MKSS43, and MKSS44. I waited until I hit about 200hrs of watching regular content before I re-calibrated (ISF Auto, Day, and Night). Like I mentioned earlier, I have been utilizing this configuration for about 8 months now with no issues. Please feel free to reach out if anyone has any questions and/or comments regarding the above post.
I've been using my 141fd (and all my other Kuros for that matter) as a guinea pig testing and endless amount of resets using ShockFett's safe reset method and something told me that the service menu adjustments were not enough to correct a reset on a 60 inch set.
The 50 inch sets are quite easy to recover. First, VOL SUS needs to be increased by the delta between the start value of ABL (found using the qpw command) and the current ABL value (found by using the QSI command) (this discovery was made by Inarbi). Then, YKONFSA D needs to be raised until there are no magenta sparkles in combi mask 6. Last, RSTP raised until black lag goes away (haven't had to do these on any of my 50's as the YKNOFSA D raise eliminates black lag). Recalibration is needed, unless you capture your pre-reset service menu grayscale settings as described by Inarbi.
The 60 inch sets are a totally different animal. In the 50 inch models, combi mask 6 and 7 will be littered with magenta sparkles after reset. In the 60 inch models, those patterns are completely clean (though lowering YKNOFSA D will cause sparkles on these patterns) while combi mask 9 and combi mask 10 will be the ones littered with magenta sparkles (more like a lag). The magenta sparkles in the 50 inch models and 60 inch models are quite different. The magenta sparkles in the 50 inch models appear in white, while the magenta sparkles in the 60 inch models are like a lag when going from black to white. There are only two ways to remove magenta sparkles in the 50 inch models post reset - raising VOL SUS or raising YKNOFSA D. Since the ABL value goes down over time, that means that VOL SUS goes up over time to compensate. That's why, on the 50 inch sets, I raise VOL SUS by the delta between start ABL and current ABL and then raise YKNOFSA D until the two patterns are clean.
On the 60 inch sets, the only way to remove the magenta lag is to either raise RSTP or YKNOFSA D. The problem is that raising YKNOFSA D (or VOL SUS) causes white sparkles near black. I've tried endless combinations and came to the realization that the white sparkles signify that the panel is being over-volted. The reason for this is that the only way I could remove the white sparkles after the YKNOFSA D increase was to either lower VOL SUS (which causes a dramatic lowering of peak light output) or lower S1 (though this caused green lag when going from white to black). Now, when I set YKNOFSA D back to default and raise RSTP, the magenta lag goes away and there are very few white sparkles near black (tolerable) but my panel is back to square 1 having some minor red tint. It's a no win situation if you have a 60 inch set with red tint, at least with my testing.
For those with 50 inch models wanting to set the pots to match the levels provided by mascior, keep in mind that the 50 inch and 60 inch models have different post reset behavior and these may not work on your set, as mascior's numbers came from a KRP-600M.