Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide - Page 72 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2131 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 08:55 AM
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Mostly green.
Had 33k hours.
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post #2132 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
Mostly green.
Had 33k hours.
Wow! That's a lot of hours.

Please keep me posted on how your set ages as it's behaving just like mine after being reset.
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post #2133 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
The near black sparkles that I see are green, so they may be different than the ones you get on your set. I see the white ones when the set is not reset.

How many usage hours did your set have when you reset? Mine is at 14k hrs at the moment.
Roughly 24k...
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post #2134 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 10:04 AM
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Did you guys attempt to use calibration to tune out the near black magenta hue that's caused by lowering s1 to 1 and raising brightness?

I played around with rgb lows and gamma point 10 by eye and it definitely helped. The problem is, it probably affected neighboring points, though I can't confirm as I didnt have my meter hooked up at that point

May give that a shot today.
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post #2135 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 10:06 AM
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It will help up to 5% and be terribly wrong up to 30. Not a good idea.
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post #2136 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
It will help up to 5% and be terribly wrong up to 30. Not a good idea.
I figured correcting it via calibration would be at the expense of higher IRE. Best compromise seems to be to keep the grayscale inaccuracies below 5%.

How does a 10 point grayscale and gamma read look like after calibration?
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post #2137 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 12:01 PM
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Idk I don't have a meter anymore
But typically on most kuros I've seen, you have a slight bump in grayscale at 10%, the rest beeing completely flat.
The only time this didn't happen was on the 6090H of a guy I know, the greyscale was perfectly flat with no hump anywhere, by only adjusting RB Highs... Just a WTF moment
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post #2138 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mascior View Post
Roughly 24k...
Looks like the sparkles near black on your set are different than the ones that show up on mine and Inarbi's set.

On one of my 141fd's (14K hrs), I have absolutely no sparkles near black (and no red tint) pre-reset (RSTP lowered to 1). If I reset it, I get white sparkles near black. On the other 141fd (10K hours), I have white sparkles near black, magenta lag and red tint at default (RSTP lowered to 1). A 20 tick increase to SAD and a 20 tick decrease of S1 corrects the lag and sparkles. If I reset it, I get green sparkles near black. These are much more aggressive than the white ones I see post reset on the other 141fd.

Voltage wise, there really isn't a delta that stands out when comparing the two:

New 141fd (14K hours) (first value is pre reset, second value is post reset)
SUS 198, 198
VH 136, 136
RSTP 124, 76
Got inconsistent readings on S1, S3 and S4, but they were all around the high 190 range both pre and post reset
XPOFS1 78, 66
XPOFS2 89, 89

Broken 141fd (10K hours)
SUS 198, 198
VH 138
V ADJ 71, 71
RSTP 111, 67
Got inconsistent readings on S1, S3 and S4, but they were all around the high 190 range both pre and post reset
XPOFS1 70, 65
XPOFS2 87, 87
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post #2139 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mascior View Post
Upon reset...I had to lower YNOFS1 to 001 for the first 100 hours or so and increase brightness +4 to rid my blacks/shadow detail of white sparkles. I slowly increased YNOFS1 by 10 clicks per 100 hours and lowered brightness accordingly. I finally achieved my factory YNOFS1 value of 086 at roughly 700 hours...absolutely no more white sparkles on black/shadow detail, brightness back to normal adjustment of 0/+1, no red tint, and still lower than factory MLL. Final voltage and current settings are:

Currently 1037 hours from last reset

MLL has risen slightly to .0004ftl

VSU.....215v
VADR.....88.8v
VH.....150v

VSU 128.....Factory setting(215v pot adjusted)
VOF 068.....Factory setting
VRP 001.....-17 from Factory setting
VX1 105.....Factory setting
VX2 027.....-20 from Factory setting
VF1 086.....Factory setting
VF3 096.....Factory setting
V4F 143.....Factory setting
VYF 128.....Factory setting

Ryan
My factory VX2 is set 063 (151) why did you have to lower VX2 to 027? What does VX2 change?
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post #2140 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post
My factory VX2 is set 063 (151) why did you have to lower VX2 to 027? What does VX2 change?
I had to lower VX2 by 20 clicks due to the green drag/lag/rain left behind when switching between bright scenes to 0% stimulus and/or black. Just like V3F and V4F...VX1 and VX2 must be a certain distance between each other to keep from undesired anomalies.

Ryan
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post #2141 of 2244 Old 01-08-2016, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mascior View Post
I had to lower VX2 by 20 clicks due to the green drag/lag/rain left behind when switching between bright scenes to 0% stimulus and/or black. Just like V3F and V4F...VX1 and VX2 must be a certain distance between each other to keep from undesired anomalies.

Ryan
For what it's worth, according to my pre and post reset readings, VX1 increases over time while VX2 stays intact. Although raising VX1 and lowering VX1 produces the same results (removal of green lag) it seems like the right way to go about finding the optimal separation between the two is to raise VX1.
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post #2142 of 2244 Old 01-09-2016, 12:13 AM
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As we have all witnessed, there are other things than voltages that are affected by a reset, things we cannot deal with because don't have access to, so it kind of makes sense to have to do some things differently to deal with these parameters we cannot see/measure.
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post #2143 of 2244 Old 01-09-2016, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
As we have all witnessed, there are other things than voltages that are affected by a reset, things we cannot deal with because don't have access to, so it kind of makes sense to have to do some things differently to deal with these parameters we cannot see/measure.
In my experiments, raising vx1 and lowering vx2 had identical effects, so it may be that the separation of the two is the key regardless of how one gets there. I chose to raise vx1 since that's what the set does as it ages.

Anyways, I had another go at the green sparkles and saw some imorovement. After raising sad to remove magenta lag and raising vx1 to remove green lag, I experimented with s1, s3 and s4 individually. I found that lowering s1 to 66 and raising s3 to 106 and s4 to 163 gave me the best result. Although the set is not watchable due to the amount of green sparkles near black, it's significantly better than than leaving s1, s3 and s4 at default.

I have my doubts that these green sparkles will magically dissappear over time. They are too aggressive to magically go away over time.

How is the aging coming along? Has the aging allowed you to raise s1 a bit without the sparkles worsening?
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post #2144 of 2244 Old 01-14-2016, 03:07 PM
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Okay, so I've got a new problem. This morning I woke up and discovered that my 500m no longer powers on as normal. When I turn it on, it immediately powers off and goes into protection mode, with the red lighting blinking. It blinks two times, pauses for a second, blinks two times, etc.

I know I was unable to adjust the VADR voltage to within spec for whatever reason. The display was generally working though and was looking better than it had in a while. I must assume that the shutdown was due to problems with the too low VADR voltage that caught up with the display.

Is there anything that could be done or that I could try? It could be due to something completely different of course.

When my display started having problems, I originally had set ABL too high when I first learned about tweaking and pulled up an all white field in the service menu and the set went into protection mode. Everytime I turned on the set, the all white field would display again and turn off the tv again with the red light blinking.

I panicked and immediately ordered a new power supply and replaced the old one, not realizing what was actually happening. Thankfully, I was able to get out of the service menu and the all white pattern using a custom program in ControlCal so I could turn on the tv and lower ABL back down to default.

What I am trying to say is I have an extra power supply, but it seems not to be working also even though it was never the problem when I replaced it earlier.

So I have two power supplies and I'd like to get one of them to work correctly somehow so I don't have to buy another one.


I have looked around and power supplies for the KRP-500m/Pro-101FD are simply not available anywhere. Actually, Pioneer still sells them, but they are charging $375 for them. I don't know how I could justify that price. I think $200 would be my absolute ceiling.


Anyway, my other power supply won't even attempt to turn on. When I swapped them today, I would press the power button on my remote and instead of powering up, the red standby light simply went off and the blue "on" light lit up. But no powering up sound and no picture. Pressing the power button again did nothing.

If anyone could help me with this at all, I would be tremendously grateful. There must be something else I could try to get one of these two power supplies to work correctly!

Maybe a blown fuse on the old power supply?

Thanks for the help. I've basically determined from my limited tweaking that most, if not all, of the post-reset problems I was having was due to a power supply issue when I replaced them before. The voltages (V SUS and VADR) were out of spec and causing problems.
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post #2145 of 2244 Old 01-14-2016, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
Anyway, my other power supply won't even attempt to turn on. When I swapped them today, I would press the power button on my remote and instead of powering up, the red standby light simply went off and the blue "on" light lit up. But no powering up sound and no picture. Pressing the power button again did nothing.
This is the same exact symptom I saw when I swapped the Y board on my 141. The TV behaved like it was working (i.e. red standby light goes off and blue light lit up solid) but there was no picture. The issue was that, rather than screwing on the Y board, I simply clipped it on with the plastic clips. Apparently, the screw holes on the boards have metal lining, which creates a ground with the chassis. TV worked just fine after I screwed the board on.

Make sure to screw the board on before you do any testing. I bet this is your issue.
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post #2146 of 2244 Old 01-14-2016, 07:07 PM
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Hi Dan
I have a 5090 in the front room of our home which I bought 5 half yrs ago after 2 yrs I started to get the red tint and it spread over time with the kids getting older and staying up later I got a second hand krp500a for my man cave which had red tint issues I am useless with computers and after reading forums for over 2 yrs I bought a logitech and got a sequence loaded onto it to access the service menu.
I have used some tweaks from forums and I have to say have made a massive improvement now I have pitch black bars and background. . The measurements I used are.
vol sus 128
Vol offset 113 unchanged
rstp 001 previous 003
XPOFS1 085 / xpofs2 063 unchanged
FS1D 088 was 138
FS3D 078 was 128
FS4D 099 was 149
YKNOFSA D 128
I hope this helps as they are awesome tvs
or maybe the more experienced members may be able to help.
Good luck.

Chris
Hey Chris, can you share or PM the logitech sequence to access the service menu?
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post #2147 of 2244 Old 01-15-2016, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
This is the same exact symptom I saw when I swapped the Y board on my 141. The TV behaved like it was working (i.e. red standby light goes off and blue light lit up solid) but there was no picture. The issue was that, rather than screwing on the Y board, I simply clipped it on with the plastic clips. Apparently, the screw holes on the boards have metal lining, which creates a ground with the chassis. TV worked just fine after I screwed the board on.

Make sure to screw the board on before you do any testing. I bet this is your issue.
Thanks for the help but unfortunately that didn't resolve the issue. I screwed it in with all screws and the issue persists. I'm thinking that my old power supply board simply is defective. The other one shuts down immediately and goes into protection mode, but at least it turns on for a minute. I also tested all the fuses with my multimeter and they all test out fine.

I must assume that the problem is the VADR voltage being out of spec. I still can't seem to get any definitive answer as to how VADR voltage is adjusted on a KRP-500m/PRO-101FD power supply. I don't know why adjusting any of the four pots I can see doesn't seem to adjust the VADR voltage one bit.

If I test it, the voltage reading showed about 41-42v for VADR, when it should be between 72 and 78v. That is clearly WAY out of spec.


Did you ever try your hand at adjusting the pots on either a 101fd or 500m? It would be really great to confirm the correct way to raise VADR, as doing so might solve my issue. Or my power supply might be defective but it would be good to know before I try and replace it.


If I end up having to get a new power supply, any idea where I could look to find one for a reasonable price? I can find Y-boards, X-boards and many other parts very cheap on eBay, but not the power supply.

Nobody except Pioneer seem to have any in stock. If I were to order one direct from Pioneer, including tax and shipping, it would cost me more than $420. I've seen KRP-500m sets being sold on Craigslist with relatively low hours and no problems for $600 to $700 so I just cannot justify a price like that.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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post #2148 of 2244 Old 01-15-2016, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
Thanks for the help but unfortunately that didn't resolve the issue. I screwed it in with all screws and the issue persists. I'm thinking that my old power supply board simply is defective. The other one shuts down immediately and goes into protection mode, but at least it turns on for a minute. I also tested all the fuses with my multimeter and they all test out fine.

I must assume that the problem is the VADR voltage being out of spec. I still can't seem to get any definitive answer as to how VADR voltage is adjusted on a KRP-500m/PRO-101FD power supply. I don't know why adjusting any of the four pots I can see doesn't seem to adjust the VADR voltage one bit.

If I test it, the voltage reading showed about 41-42v for VADR, when it should be between 72 and 78v. That is clearly WAY out of spec.


Did you ever try your hand at adjusting the pots on either a 101fd or 500m? It would be really great to confirm the correct way to raise VADR, as doing so might solve my issue. Or my power supply might be defective but it would be good to know before I try and replace it.


If I end up having to get a new power supply, any idea where I could look to find one for a reasonable price? I can find Y-boards, X-boards and many other parts very cheap on eBay, but not the power supply.

Nobody except Pioneer seem to have any in stock. If I were to order one direct from Pioneer, including tax and shipping, it would cost me more than $420. I've seen KRP-500m sets being sold on Craigslist with relatively low hours and no problems for $600 to $700 so I just cannot justify a price like that.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Aside from a full sanity check to ensure all connectors are seated properly, especially make sure ribbon cables are not flipped the three cables that hook up to the gray box where the power plug goes are in the right order, there's nothing else I can think of but to find a replacement power supply.

There's a listing for a broken 500M on ebay. Perhaps the seller is down to sell individual parts?

I've never adjusted pots on a 500M or 101fd but the pots are plastic (there's some gray goo over the pot that you need to remove) and are labelled on the circuit board. Just take a small flat head screwdriver and adjust.
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post #2149 of 2244 Old 01-17-2016, 11:06 AM
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I tweaked things a bit yesterday on the reset LX6090H, being around the 300hr mark atm.
I was able to raise V1F around 10 clicks with almost no increase on white/green sparkles near black, and lower V3F/V4F around 20 clicks before magenta lag start to show slightly again on combi mask 1 (still obvious on combi mask 10 but hardly visible in real content).
The black splotch in the middle is starting to fade, and I don't really notice it anymore except if I really look for it on a black screen.
I could set brightness down to 0 again, with bar 19 visible (completely red, but visible lol).
Low end greyscale is still red tinted, but this will get away when I'll be able to raise V1F and lower V3/V4F closer to stock values.

RSTP was raised on the pot to around 90V, at stock value (3) in service menu.

MLL matches my VT in a pitch black room, no red tint.

Funny thing is, while displaying a dark content on both the kuro and the VT, the dark red tinting of the lowest shades (not visible from viewing distance) on the kuro makes it look darker than the VT, with around the same gamma.

V1F is 46 clicks lower than stock, and V3/V4 are 30 clics higher, after yesterday adjustments.
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post #2150 of 2244 Old 01-17-2016, 11:56 AM
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I was wondering if someone could answer a couple of questions I have.

I have a LX5090, and the black levels have gone up and the blacks have the red tint.

What's the 'safest' way to remove the red tint and lower the black levels? I've read that fooling around with the voltages can cause artifacts, but is it possible to remove the red tint and lower the blacks without causing the artifacts? I don't necessarily need to lower the blacks that much, but would like to remove the red tint at least.

I want to calibrate my set after changing the voltages. Will the voltages change again over time, so I have to do it over and over, so the calibration will stay correct? If so, how often do you have to change the voltages?
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post #2151 of 2244 Old 01-17-2016, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I tweaked things a bit yesterday on the reset LX6090H, being around the 300hr mark atm.
I was able to raise V1F around 10 clicks with almost no increase on white/green sparkles near black, and lower V3F/V4F around 20 clicks before magenta lag start to show slightly again on combi mask 1 (still obvious on combi mask 10 but hardly visible in real content).
The black splotch in the middle is starting to fade, and I don't really notice it anymore except if I really look for it on a black screen.
I could set brightness down to 0 again, with bar 19 visible (completely red, but visible lol).
Low end greyscale is still red tinted, but this will get away when I'll be able to raise V1F and lower V3/V4F closer to stock values.

RSTP was raised on the pot to around 90V, at stock value (3) in service menu.

MLL matches my VT in a pitch black room, no red tint.

Funny thing is, while displaying a dark content on both the kuro and the VT, the dark red tinting of the lowest shades (not visible from viewing distance) on the kuro makes it look darker than the VT, with around the same gamma.

V1F is 46 clicks lower than stock, and V3/V4 are 30 clics higher, after yesterday adjustments.
Wait, so you raised v1f by 10 and raised v3f and v4f by 30 ticks?

At any rate, please keep us updated in how your set reacts as it ages as I will definitely reset mine if v1f can eventually go back to default after time.
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post #2152 of 2244 Old 01-17-2016, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I tweaked things a bit yesterday on the reset LX6090H, being around the 300hr mark atm.
I was able to raise V1F around 10 clicks with almost no increase on white/green sparkles near black, and lower V3F/V4F around 20 clicks before magenta lag start to show slightly again on combi mask 1 (still obvious on combi mask 10 but hardly visible in real content).
The black splotch in the middle is starting to fade, and I don't really notice it anymore except if I really look for it on a black screen.
I could set brightness down to 0 again, with bar 19 visible (completely red, but visible lol).
Low end greyscale is still red tinted, but this will get away when I'll be able to raise V1F and lower V3/V4F closer to stock values.

RSTP was raised on the pot to around 90V, at stock value (3) in service menu.

MLL matches my VT in a pitch black room, no red tint.

Funny thing is, while displaying a dark content on both the kuro and the VT, the dark red tinting of the lowest shades (not visible from viewing distance) on the kuro makes it look darker than the VT, with around the same gamma.

V1F is 46 clicks lower than stock, and V3/V4 are 30 clics higher, after yesterday adjustments.
Nvm, figured it out you raise v1 and lowered v3 and v4. Keep the updates coming inarbi!
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post #2153 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 02:28 AM
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Hi all,

I dropped a very long post of my whole 'used' Kuro Experience, its unfortunately been a tough ride but i sometimes have to question myself, am i actually enjoying all the tweaking

Makaveddie, from your findings s1, s3 +s4 don't adjust after reset, I had been messing with them individually initially because this was the only way i knew how to get rid of the green lag.

I read a recent post of yours and tried raising VX1 20 clicks instead and it worked! This meant i can leave s1, 3, 4 FSA D all at default settings and not have any issues. Thanks for this.

You also said about raising RSTP to over 100 removed most of the Sparkles after reset, i tried it and it worked for me but was of course was left with raised black levels and red tint.

In fact i now felt like my panel looks the same as it did pre-reset. Not great of course but at least i now know how if the Sparkles became unacceptable.

Some people report that their panels don't misfire/sparkle after reset in the same way mine did, maybe though this was because my red tint was pretty bad and because my default RSTP appeared to be set at 001! Maybe those panels with a higher default RSTP don't react quite as badly as one with lower default RSTP.

Currently my RSTP is set to 30, yes i could go lower but experience some black lag, i see it after watching a dark movie for a few mins and then changing channel. 30 seems to be a happy medium.

I was watching from Dusk to Dawn series last night on Netflix, a lot of low light scene shadow seemed a little be a little too red for my liking, is this something i can fix with voltages?

I watched some of the same scenes on my Samsung S6 Amoled screen and it wasn't red in the shadows like the Kuro. The Kuro's blacks looked nicer though, the S6's had a lot of noise in some of the blacks.

As it stands I now have 3 options until someone can advise me on improving low light shadow details and sparkles

Raise RSTP to over 100 - No nasty sparkles but raised black levels and some red tint

Lower RSTP to 001 - Sparkles near black mainly, black rain, incredible black levels, can barely see the TV is on when using a blank input.

Set RSTP to 30 - Sparkles near black not quite as bad - Very good black levels - This is the option i am currently using.

Thanks for reading
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post #2154 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 02:58 AM
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Peaugeot205gti: Which kuro model do you have?
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post #2155 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by andrno View Post
Peaugeot205gti: Which kuro model do you have?
LX 5090

Thanks
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post #2156 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 08:21 AM
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As a general rule: You probably need to recalibrate your set when you reset or tweak the voltages. Mine was WAAAY off, but after calibration it looks unreal. Straight gamma 2.4 without even sweating.

I have black rain, but does not affect normal watching, only sometimes when the subtitles are in the black border..but it's pretty subtle so I'm the only one noticing it. That is the price to pay for the oled like blackness.
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post #2157 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by peugeot205gti View Post
Hi all,

I dropped a very long post of my whole 'used' Kuro Experience, its unfortunately been a tough ride but i sometimes have to question myself, am i actually enjoying all the tweaking

Makaveddie, from your findings s1, s3 +s4 don't adjust after reset, I had been messing with them individually initially because this was the only way i knew how to get rid of the green lag.

I read a recent post of yours and tried raising VX1 20 clicks instead and it worked! This meant i can leave s1, 3, 4 FSA D all at default settings and not have any issues. Thanks for this.

You also said about raising RSTP to over 100 removed most of the Sparkles after reset, i tried it and it worked for me but was of course was left with raised black levels and red tint.

In fact i now felt like my panel looks the same as it did pre-reset. Not great of course but at least i now know how if the Sparkles became unacceptable.

Some people report that their panels don't misfire/sparkle after reset in the same way mine did, maybe though this was because my red tint was pretty bad and because my default RSTP appeared to be set at 001! Maybe those panels with a higher default RSTP don't react quite as badly as one with lower default RSTP.

Currently my RSTP is set to 30, yes i could go lower but experience some black lag, i see it after watching a dark movie for a few mins and then changing channel. 30 seems to be a happy medium.

I was watching from Dusk to Dawn series last night on Netflix, a lot of low light scene shadow seemed a little be a little too red for my liking, is this something i can fix with voltages?

I watched some of the same scenes on my Samsung S6 Amoled screen and it wasn't red in the shadows like the Kuro. The Kuro's blacks looked nicer though, the S6's had a lot of noise in some of the blacks.

As it stands I now have 3 options until someone can advise me on improving low light shadow details and sparkles

Raise RSTP to over 100 - No nasty sparkles but raised black levels and some red tint

Lower RSTP to 001 - Sparkles near black mainly, black rain, incredible black levels, can barely see the TV is on when using a blank input.

Set RSTP to 30 - Sparkles near black not quite as bad - Very good black levels - This is the option i am currently using.

Thanks for reading
Keep in mind that my pre and post reset voltage readings were done on a 60 inch model. For all we know, the 50 inch sets (which the LX5090 is) may react differently after reset.

I've never seen the green lag on a 50 inch set before. I was under the impression that it was exclusive to the 60 inchers.

What I like to do on the 50 inch sets after reset is set RSTP to 18 and raise SAD (with S1, S3 and S4 at their default values) until combi mask 6 (scrolling strobe pattern) is clear of magenta sparkles. Raising SAD does two things - removes magenta sparkles on white AND gets rid of black rain. Once that is done you can experiment with RSTP, but I've found 18 to be the sweet spot.

Give it a shot an report back your findings.

Your set will definitely need to be calibrated after reset, as resetting causes the service menu RGB high and low values to go back to their starting values. There will definitely be a red push post reset.
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post #2158 of 2244 Old 01-26-2016, 12:29 PM
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And especially a severe lack of blue
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post #2159 of 2244 Old 02-25-2016, 05:53 AM
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Hi all,

Been quite some time since i posted now.

After the reset i have never been able to get rid of the Green Sparkles near black unless raising RSTP to over 100 which bring back red tint and basically puts it back to how it looked before the reset.

However, i noticed sparkles were soooo much worse on Sky Broadcasts which would make sense because of terrible compression compared to Blu-Ray or even Netflix. When watching Blu Ray or Netflix the Sparkles are hardly ever apparent, i have never seen them unless 1ft from screen and looking for them.

Being from the UK i usually watch Sky in Drive Mode 2, broadcasts here are 50hz and it performs better for the majority of basic TV content, football and tennis especially. Motion rather strange on sports in drive mode 1.

I changed back to Drive 1 which actually appears to give slightly better contrast and black level but it also has reduced the Sparkles but quite a bit!

Not only that, dark badly compressed scenes on Sky also look much much better. Only programmes that suffer in Drive Mode 1 seem to be sport, i use Drive 1 for all movie channels and most other content, it really does look better. I used to find shadow detail was a little too red on badly compressed content.

So if anyone faces the reset Sparkles of doom then i recommend using Drive Mode 1 as much as possible unless you see motion issues.

My understanding is that Blu-Ray 24p and Neflix 60hz default to drive mode 1 anyhow which is probably why sparkles are hardly apparent as well as better compression.

I am now very very happy with my overall picture. I used to think my Panasonic UT50b had great black levels. I turned it on the other day and couldn't believe how grey it was compared!! Picture still pretty awesome overall though but its no Kuro.

I saw a OLED in store the other day, still tempted but going to give the Kuro a few more years!

Cheers guys
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post #2160 of 2244 Old 02-25-2016, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peugeot205gti View Post
Hi all,

Been quite some time since i posted now.

After the reset i have never been able to get rid of the Green Sparkles near black unless raising RSTP to over 100 which bring back red tint and basically puts it back to how it looked before the reset.

However, i noticed sparkles were soooo much worse on Sky Broadcasts which would make sense because of terrible compression compared to Blu-Ray or even Netflix. When watching Blu Ray or Netflix the Sparkles are hardly ever apparent, i have never seen them unless 1ft from screen and looking for them.

Being from the UK i usually watch Sky in Drive Mode 2, broadcasts here are 50hz and it performs better for the majority of basic TV content, football and tennis especially. Motion rather strange on sports in drive mode 1.

I changed back to Drive 1 which actually appears to give slightly better contrast and black level but it also has reduced the Sparkles but quite a bit!

Not only that, dark badly compressed scenes on Sky also look much much better. Only programmes that suffer in Drive Mode 1 seem to be sport, i use Drive 1 for all movie channels and most other content, it really does look better. I used to find shadow detail was a little too red on badly compressed content.

So if anyone faces the reset Sparkles of doom then i recommend using Drive Mode 1 as much as possible unless you see motion issues.

My understanding is that Blu-Ray 24p and Neflix 60hz default to drive mode 1 anyhow which is probably why sparkles are hardly apparent as well as better compression.

I am now very very happy with my overall picture. I used to think my Panasonic UT50b had great black levels. I turned it on the other day and couldn't believe how grey it was compared!! Picture still pretty awesome overall though but its no Kuro.

I saw a OLED in store the other day, still tempted but going to give the Kuro a few more years!

Cheers guys
On my 141fd, the sparkles are horrendous regardless of source.

By drive mode do you mean Pure Cinema Mode or the actual Drive Mode in the ISF settings?
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