Originally Posted by buttonsw
I have a question about VOL_SUS?
I have performed many resets on my 500A each trying slightly different techniques and the one that you quoted above does a good job but my FSAD needs raising to about 170 ish to clear all misfires on COMBI_MASK 6 and that has a detrimental effect on my black level.
I have found that my Kuro is still requiring a bit of juice even after this and raisng VOL_SUS really helps this with the picture and menus much snappier with no lag. What I want to know is how much can I raise it safely as I do not want to fry the boards so to speak. To clear a white field required a figure of about 162 and the temps stay below 50 degrees. The good thing about raising VOL_SUS is that it cleans up COMBI_MASK 6 a little and so FSAD is not needed to be raised nearly enough as before to clean it fully (about 148) which results in a better black level. Is it safe to raise VOL_SUS if the temps are OK or is it best to leave it and just use YSUS_B & XSUS_B?
In the past, I used to juggle between raising VOL SUS and lowering XSUSB/YSUSB but after performing pre and post reset voltage measurements on multiple Kuros from the entire model spectrum, I lean towards the latter, as VOL SUS readings remained unchanged in these trials (meaning VOL SUS does not change as the panel ages).
I wouldn't call effects of raising FSAD until combi mask 6 is clear as detrimental. What this step does is it sets the "safe floor" for your black level, as anything lower than this will yield black rain/lag, IR and blotchy black field. Remember, these things were NOT designed to produce OLED blacks. Forcing these things to do so causes black rain/lag and horrible image retention. Using combi mask 6 as a reference for setting FSAD (and thus your black level) yields a black rain free image that is still below stock black level.
Yes, VOL SUS does clear combi mask 6, but it does nothing to combat black rain/lag. Set FSAD back to 128 and clear combi mask 6 by simply raising VOL SUS and your set will have horrible black rain/lag and IR.
Using raster mask 1 (white field) as a reference to set X/YSUSB (after raising FSAD to clear combi mask 6) gives the Kuro the remaining amount of juice to produce a nice clean picture with no artifacts.
My goal when I developed this workflow was a red tint free image with black level no higher than stock with no artifacts while maintaining reference. On all sets that I have applied this work flow, the black level is always below stock (both visually and by meter). The reason for this is because RSTP is much lower than it's pre-reset value after workflow completion. The last step (where rstp is checked) allows for further tweaking of black level. The black level improvement is much more obvious when working on a non reset display, so you may not be seeing any improvement because your set was already reset and you're used to it.
Sure you can juggle a bit between VOL SUS and FSAD to not have to raise FSAD too much, but you will have some black rain/lag. It's all a matter of compromise.