Official Samsung PNxxF8500 "Bugs" Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 389 Old 07-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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[QUOTE=airgas1998;25695865]lower left hand corner back side it's a joystick press in to turn on/off[/QUOTE


Thanks, I have been pulling the power cord after I put in stand-by.
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post #362 of 389 Old 07-12-2014, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airgas1998 View Post
lower left hand corner back side it's a joystick press in to turn on/off
Well sorry to say this, but when mine has the RED light LLC on in the standby mode, if I then press the little joystick in the rear of the panel I can NOT turn OFF the set, it comes ON no matter what I do.

So in my case it is not an ON/OFF switch, in my case its a STANDBY/ON switch.

Please let me know if I am doing something wrong. I was also told by Samsung that the unit does NOT have an ON/OFFswitch as such.
But then again maybe I am missing something and if thats the case please enlighten me because I would love tobe able to turn the TV OFF at nite.

Rob
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post #363 of 389 Old 07-13-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cooknl View Post
Well sorry to say this, but when mine has the RED light LLC on in the standby mode, if I then press the little joystick in the rear of the panel I can NOT turn OFF the set, it comes ON no matter what I do.

So in my case it is not an ON/OFF switch, in my case its a STANDBY/ON switch.

Please let me know if I am doing something wrong. I was also told by Samsung that the unit does NOT have an ON/OFFswitch as such.
But then again maybe I am missing something and if thats the case please enlighten me because I would love tobe able to turn the TV OFF at nite.

Rob

Same here! This does not power off the set for me.
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post #364 of 389 Old 07-13-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post
Same here! This does not power off the set for me.
Back to pulling the plug!
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post #365 of 389 Old 07-13-2014, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Back to pulling the plug!

This is why people are having HDMI problems when they do factory resets, they are not clearing the HDMI cables that with certain inputs to the TV have power and signal in them.... therefore they do not reset properly.
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post #366 of 389 Old 07-13-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post
This is why people are having HDMI problems when they do factory resets, they are not clearing the HDMI cables that with certain inputs to the TV have power and signal in them.... therefore they do not reset properly.
Video Equalizers, Satellite Receivers, etc, that are still sending out a signal. Like the Sat Revrs - Telling you to turn it on.
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post #367 of 389 Old 07-17-2014, 03:03 PM
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Just had the "no input" error. Tried everything to get it back. Finally had to unplug the HDMI cable, pull the power on the TV, plug power back in and power on, then plug in HDMI cable.

This is with the new v1200 firmware, BTW.
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post #368 of 389 Old 07-17-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jojoxl View Post
Just had the "no input" error. Tried everything to get it back. Finally had to unplug the HDMI cable, pull the power on the TV, plug power back in and power on, then plug in HDMI cable.

This is with the new v1200 firmware, BTW.

No wonder you are having problems.....
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post #369 of 389 Old 07-22-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post
No wonder you are having problems.....
Meaning what, exactly?
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post #370 of 389 Old 07-22-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jojoxl View Post
Meaning what, exactly?
I think he was trying to blame the firmware, but I'm not 100% sure.
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post #371 of 389 Old 07-22-2014, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jojoxl View Post
Meaning what, exactly?

You stated you reapplied power to the Samsung and then connected the HDMI cables. To be safe you should always disconnect the AC before changing HDMI cables. Sure, many people get away without having problems but it can happen. By re-applying power you reset the HDMI communication between components. Good Luck


Reference:http://www.avforums.com/threads/is-h...pable.1229098/
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Last edited by KONICA TECH; 07-23-2014 at 07:10 AM. Reason: add info
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post #372 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
CS works great 99% of the time. However since it basically using 4 identical frames in 96hz (4x24hz) to give the movie a smoother flow, every once in awhile it will hiccup and you can see an extra frame, or brief stutter.
It sure seems to me that the hiccups are a lot more frequent than "every once in a while" when playing 1080p23.976 (24/1.001) content. I'm going to make a few test pattern videos (at different frame rates) with a moving white box (or similar) to hopefully figure out what the problems is. From what I've seen so far I'm surprised there isn't a crowd of people lined up with pitchforks and torches screaming at Samsung because the current implementation sure seems close to unusable. In my attempts to use the feature, there are tons of stutters on what seem to be a pretty frequent periodic basis and I know my playback source (HTPC) isn't dropping any frames and I know the source material I'm sending to the TV is real 1080p23.976 (IVTC'd 1080i60).
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post #373 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 04:39 PM
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So, I made some test clips and I'm not entirely sure what to make of my results so far. Basically, the F8500 doesn't seem play either 24.000Hz or 23.976Hz (24/1001) content from the HDMI port perfectly regardless of the settings. There are hiccups in the playback if Cinema Smooth is on or off. There are hiccups if the Motion Judder Canceller is set to off, standard, or smooth. The best results with the least hiccups seemed to be with 24.00Hz and Cinema Smooth turned on. My testing so far shows the set seems to favor 24Hz over 24/1.001Hz. Of course that's not what is on a Blu-Ray disc...

Also, the hiccups are not on a predictable periodic basis.

Edit: I still need to do more testing where I take the HDMI splitter and receiver out of the playback chain as well as try a second PC with a different graphics chipset.

Last edited by Stereodude; 07-25-2014 at 04:49 PM.
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post #374 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
So, I made some test clips and I'm not entirely sure what to make of my results so far. Basically, the F8500 doesn't seem play either 24.000Hz or 23.976Hz (24/1001) content from the HDMI port perfectly regardless of the settings. There are hiccups in the playback if Cinema Smooth is on or off. There are hiccups if the Motion Judder Canceller is set to off, standard, or smooth. The best results with the least hiccups seemed to be with 24.00Hz and Cinema Smooth turned on. My testing so far shows the set seems to favor 24Hz over 24/1.001Hz. Of course that's not what is on a Blu-Ray disc...

Also, the hiccups are not on a predictable periodic basis.

Edit: I still need to do more testing where I take the HDMI splitter and receiver out of the playback chain as well as try a second PC with a different graphics chipset.
Spears and Munsil 2 Blu-ray Video Motion Tests - the F8500 will never pass any of them except 60. 24 and 30 will fail every time.
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post #375 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 07:49 PM
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I have no motion hiccups anymore. There are 3 things that I have changed since I got mine in April. 1) I turned off all wi-fi and internet capabilities as well as motion control and voice recognition. 2) Went to custom color space instead of native. 3) and more hours everyday have this thing hummin'. I have no idea if 2 is helping, but I'm leaving it. I went through every single configuration I could and this is what is working for me.
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post #376 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Spears and Munsil 2 Blu-ray Video Motion Tests - the F8500 will never pass any of them except 60. 24 and 30 will fail every time.
To be fair, I have not seen any plasma pass the 24 and 30p motion tests. The mighty Kuros fail all but the 60p test.

"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory"
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post #377 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 08:36 PM
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Spears and Munsil 2 Blu-ray Video Motion Tests - the F8500 will never pass any of them except 60. 24 and 30 will fail every time.
I tried bypassing the receiver and HDMI splitter and I'm not sure anything improved.

I'm not familiar with those motion tests. Can you describe the test / how it works?

My tests don't rely on any sort of deinterlacing or IVTC. They're progressive files that have smooth consistent motion in a test pattern. The test is simply playing the file with the refresh rate matching the file and look for hiccups, jumps, jerkiness, etc. in the motion. Here's the 24/1.001FPS one:

1080p23.976 (24/1.001) mkv

I will upload more of my motion tests at other frame rates and post links to them later. I need to generate a few more files.

Last edited by Stereodude; 07-25-2014 at 08:40 PM.
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post #378 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
I tried bypassing the receiver and HDMI splitter and I'm not sure anything improved.

I'm not familiar with those motion tests. Can you describe the test / how it works?

My tests don't rely on any sort of deinterlacing or IVTC. They're progressive files that have smooth consistent motion in a test pattern. The test is simply playing the file with the refresh rate matching the file and look for hiccups, jumps, jerkiness, etc. in the motion. Here's the 24/1.001FPS one:

1080p23.976 (24/1.001) mkv

I will upload more of my motion tests at other frame rates and post links to them later. I need to generate a few more files.
Please note Posting above yours. #376
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post #379 of 389 Old 07-25-2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Please note Posting above yours. #376
Yeah, I saw that. I'm unsure why the sets would have issues with 24 or 30Hz. 24Hz should work perfectly with Cinema Smooth enabled since it's a multiple of 96 which you get with Cinema Smooth enabled. Proper 30Hz playback is just a matter of showing each frame twice at 60Hz. However, as I mentioned I'm not familiar with the S&M motion tests so they may be attempting to test something other than what I'm testing.
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post #380 of 389 Old 07-26-2014, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
Yeah, I saw that. I'm unsure why the sets would have issues with 24 or 30Hz. 24Hz should work perfectly with Cinema Smooth enabled since it's a multiple of 96 which you get with Cinema Smooth enabled. Proper 30Hz playback is just a matter of showing each frame twice at 60Hz. However, as I mentioned I'm not familiar with the S&M motion tests so they may be attempting to test something other than what I'm testing.
Hi your problem is the HTPC, PC cpus and graphic Cards have problems showing properly 24p, see this topic:
Let's set this straight - No one can do 24p consistently well
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post #381 of 389 Old 07-26-2014, 07:12 AM
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Hi your problem is the HTPC, PC cpus and graphic Cards have problems showing properly 24p, see this topic:
Let's set this straight - No one can do 24p consistently well
I'm extremely skeptical that it's caused by slight frame rate variances from the HTPC. Yes, the typical HTPC 24/1.001 frame rate is typically ever so slightly off, but at least on my HTPC only to the tune of around 2 repeated or dropped frames over the length of a 2 hour movie. The F8500 has a lot more than 2 hiccups in 24/1.001Hz Cinema Smooth playback over the course of a 2 hour movie. It's several noticeable glitches per 10 minute interval. I wouldn't be complaining about 1 glitch per hour. Heck, I probably wouldn't even notice that. Besides, it's possible to test your slight frame variance explanation and rule it out. MadVR reports dropped or repeated frames. If you see a hiccup / hitch in the motion, check madVR's stats, and see the counters haven't increased from before the motion glitch, then it seems rather unlikely that the HTPC is responsible (due to the minute frame rate variance).

Further, I'm highly skeptical that the 24/1.001Hz output from standalone blu-ray players is any better. They just don't have any means to show you the exact frame rate they're outputting so no one notices 1 or 2 glitches over a 2 hour movie and basically no home user has any means of precisely measuring the frame rate of a standalone Blu-ray player it to know it's off.

Last edited by Stereodude; 07-26-2014 at 07:15 AM.
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post #382 of 389 Old 07-26-2014, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
I'm extremely skeptical that it's caused by slight frame rate variances from the HTPC. Yes, the typical HTPC 24/1.001 frame rate is typically ever so slightly off, but at least on my HTPC only to the tune of around 2 repeated or dropped frames over the length of a 2 hour movie. The F8500 has a lot more than 2 hiccups in 24/1.001Hz Cinema Smooth playback over the course of a 2 hour movie. It's several noticeable glitches per 10 minute interval. I wouldn't be complaining about 1 glitch per hour. Heck, I probably wouldn't even notice that. Besides, it's possible to test your slight frame variance explanation and rule it out. MadVR reports dropped or repeated frames. If you see a hiccup / hitch in the motion, check madVR's stats, and see the counters haven't increased from before the motion glitch, then it seems rather unlikely that the HTPC is responsible (due to the minute frame rate variance).

Further, I'm highly skeptical that the 24/1.001Hz output from standalone blu-ray players is any better. They just don't have any means to show you the exact frame rate they're outputting so no one notices 1 or 2 glitches over a 2 hour movie and basically no home user has any means of precisely measuring the frame rate of a standalone Blu-ray player it to know it's off.
If you can try a blue ray player, or a media player like the mede8er, dune, etc.

Try also a factory reset and disconnect all hdmi cables. And leave it disconnected from the power for 10min.
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post #383 of 389 Old 07-27-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
I will upload more of my motion tests at other frame rates and post links to them later. I need to generate a few more files.
I created a thread with all my motion test clips. There are 24/1.001 (23.976), 24, 25, 30/1.001 (29.97), 30, 50 , 60/1.001 (59.94), & 60Hz files.
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post #384 of 389 Old Yesterday, 08:07 AM
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Hi All,


I have a really strange issue with my F8500.

I have a Cable Box, PS4, Xbox One (and 360) and a Denon X2100. I am trying to set the Cable box on HDMI 1 out of the receiver into spot 1 input into the TV. I also have HDMI 2 out of the receiver into spot 2 of the TV.

I was planning to have HDMI 1 be for movies/TV and HDMI 2 set to 'PC' for gaming.

When I have the Cable box and PS4 hooked up, everything works fine.

When I add the Xbox to the mix, I will see the image for a split second, and then the TV goes black, with the pop-up saying it can not find a signal. If I change the source, the PS4 no longer works and the cable works sometimes. If I unplug the Xbox, everything works again.

Any ideas? Hopefully I explained myself well enough.
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post #385 of 389 Old Yesterday, 09:20 AM
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What do you mean by "add the Xbox to the mix"? Turn it on? Plug it in? Change to its input on the receiver?

And, which Xbox?
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post #386 of 389 Old Yesterday, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
What do you mean by "add the Xbox to the mix"? Turn it on? Plug it in? Change to its input on the receiver?

And, which Xbox?
I would plug in the HDMI cable and turn on the Xbox. I would then change to it's input on the receiver. If that happened to work, I would swap inputs on the TV, and that would never work. Always get a flash of the Xbox menu and then black.

I did a complete power off one time too, but I had someone tell me I need to unplug the power to all devices, which I did not try but makes sense. In addition, I found out I could damage things to pull/plug the HDMI wires as things are on, so I will no longer be doing that!

This was with both the Xbox One and the Xbox 360.
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post #387 of 389 Old Yesterday, 09:34 AM
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Did you try plugging either Xbox directly into the TV or use a different HDMI port on your receiver?
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post #388 of 389 Old Yesterday, 09:41 AM
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I would plug in the HDMI cable and turn on the Xbox. I would then change to it's input on the receiver. If that happened to work, I would swap inputs on the TV, and that would never work. Always get a flash of the Xbox menu and then black.

I did a complete power off one time too, but I had someone tell me I need to unplug the power to all devices, which I did not try but makes sense. In addition, I found out I could damage things to pull/plug the HDMI wires as things are on, so I will no longer be doing that!

This was with both the Xbox One and the Xbox 360.
sounds like a HDMI handshake problem.

Try to connect the xbox directly to the tv, and see if it does the same.

I would connect the receiver to the tv HDMI3 since it's ARC enabled, with this you can play the sound of the tv through the receiver.
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post #389 of 389 Old Yesterday, 09:47 AM
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I did not try plugging it directly in, but I can try that too. All 4 components work fine if I only have one HDMI cable going from the receiver to the TV.

I will also do the ARC HDMI 3 input.
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