### Samsung PN60F5500 - By the numbers (calibration and settings) - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 52 Old 03-15-2014, 11:50 PM
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Thanks for this thread, superleo. I have a couple if questions if you don't mind.

I just got this TV a couple of days ago and should I wait until I'm at 100 hours before trying your settings? Is there anything I should really turn down during the "break-in" phase? I turned some stuff down for the break-in at the advice of another member (e.g. cell light = 12, contrast = 75-80).

Also what is the purpose of the ColorHCFR file in the OP? Is that for only if you have a calibrator?
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post #32 of 52 Old 03-16-2014, 08:00 AM
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Thank you sir!
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post #33 of 52 Old 03-16-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdip View Post

Thanks for this thread, superleo. I have a couple if questions if you don't mind.

I just got this TV a couple of days ago and should I wait until I'm at 100 hours before trying your settings? Is there anything I should really turn down during the "break-in" phase? I turned some stuff down for the break-in at the advice of another member (e.g. cell light = 12, contrast = 75-80).

Also what is the purpose of the ColorHCFR file in the OP? Is that for only if you have a calibrator?

The best thing that you can do, to protect your TV from burned in and image retention, during the first 100-200 hours is what you did -- lowering the contrast. Even with the lower contrast you should try to avoid watching content with tickers or static images. If you do, change to something with a full screen for 30 min before tuning off the TV.

The HCFR file is for those interested on the full array of measurements. ColorHCFR is a free program used for calibration. You can download it, install it and open the file to check ALL the graphs and measurements.

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post #34 of 52 Old 03-16-2014, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

The best thing that you can do, to protect your TV from burned in and image retention, during the first 100-200 hours is what you did -- lowering the contrast. Even with the lower contrast you should try to avoid watching content with tickers or static images. If you do, change to something with a full screen for 30 min before tuning off the TV.

The HCFR file is for those interested on the full array of measurements. ColorHCFR is a free program used for calibration. You can download it, install it and open the file to check ALL the graphs and measurements.

Thanks for the info! biggrin.gif
Do you think I should go lower on contrast or is 75-80 fine?
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post #35 of 52 Old 03-17-2014, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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^^^

You are fine there.

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post #36 of 52 Old 03-21-2014, 03:42 PM
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This good for the PN51F5500 as well since it's all in the same series just different size?
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post #37 of 52 Old 03-21-2014, 04:02 PM
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post #38 of 52 Old 03-21-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Menu Settings

Picture Settings

Cell - 16
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 15
Color - 50
Tint - G49-R51
Color Tone - Standard
HDMI Black Level - Low
Black Opt - Darkroom
Flesh Tones - -2
Gamma - 0

White Balance

ROff - 21
GOff - 24
BOff - 8
RGain - 45
GGain - 31
BGain - 15

Any additional processing OFF

Thank you for these settings, I went ahead on my 51 inch model with your calibration and everything looks fantastic. Only adjustments I made was sharpness a little higher (I like a sharper pic just me) and color at 49 instead of 50 using the RGB Blue filter mode was the accurate setting through Xbox Ones built in color calibration setter. Also this made whites much brighter IMHO and less gray. Is there any huge difference with leaving the Black Optimizer on Auto compared to Dark Room? I have a completely dark room at night of course but during the day I have light though without the reflection on tv as they are skylights. So would it be best to leave it at Auto or wouldn't matter? Ty again
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post #39 of 52 Old 03-26-2014, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXGhostXx View Post

Thank you for these settings, I went ahead on my 51 inch model with your calibration and everything looks fantastic. Only adjustments I made was sharpness a little higher (I like a sharper pic just me) and color at 49 instead of 50 using the RGB Blue filter mode was the accurate setting through Xbox Ones built in color calibration setter. Also this made whites much brighter IMHO and less gray. Is there any huge difference with leaving the Black Optimizer on Auto compared to Dark Room? I have a completely dark room at night of course but during the day I have light though without the reflection on tv as they are skylights. So would it be best to leave it at Auto or wouldn't matter? Ty again

Any reply?
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post #40 of 52 Old 03-26-2014, 06:49 PM
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Have you tried both?
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post #41 of 52 Old 03-31-2014, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post

Have you tried both?

Yes and Auto seems to have deeper blacks no matter the time of day. I just wanted to know the huge difference as he did an accurate calibration with it on dark room only.
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post #42 of 52 Old 04-01-2014, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I have never used auto, since every recommendation I've seen is with native mode.

I'll take a look using auto.

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post #43 of 52 Old 04-02-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXGhostXx View Post

Yes and Auto seems to have deeper blacks no matter the time of day. I just wanted to know the huge difference as he did an accurate calibration with it on dark room only.
auto and dark room for the black optimizer produce the same black level
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post #44 of 52 Old 04-06-2014, 11:24 AM
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@superleo

 

Ok I finally had a quieter weekend with some time to try the settings you outlined. And wow, kudos. Amazing job.

 

I use it only on my blu ray player input (HDMI 2), as that is where I get anal about PQ (TV viewing is full of compressed signals, I have it set now where it looks okay for any channel we have it on).

So over the weekend I watched four movies with your settings. Hobbit/Smaug, 47 Ronin, Escape Plan, and even a comedy; Bad Grandpa.

 

Incredible. Colours were perfectly balanced. As interested as I am in tv displays, I don't have the know-how of dialling in things like white balance, etc. Watching these movies was a feast for the eyes. Absolutely cinema quality. Good stuff and thanks again for putting the work into this! :D

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post #45 of 52 Old 04-07-2014, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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^^^

Glad is useful information and it works for your TV.

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
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post #46 of 52 Old 04-15-2014, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Menu Settings

Picture Settings
Cell - 16
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 15
Color - 50
Tint - G49-R51
Color Tone - Standard
HDMI Black Level - Low
Black Opt - Darkroom
Flesh Tones - -2
Gamma - 0

White Balance
ROff - 21
GOff - 24
BOff - 8
RGain - 45
GGain - 31
BGain - 15

Any additional processing OFF

Superleo,

Thanks for the settings. I am more of an audio guy than video, so I apologize if below is more basic.
- I understand the provided numbers are for a specific PDP in a specific room, but have confidence your numbers are way closer than I would be able to guess at / find by blind luck (pun intended).
- In my case the PN60 is wall mounted in a media room (i.e. dark with no windows) with the seats 12 feet from screen, sources are TWC digital/analog cable, Samsung BDC5500 BluRay, and Oppo 980H DVD.

Two questions.

1) To confirm "Any additional processing OFF" would mean . . .
From the "Advanced Settings Menu":
Dynamic Contrast Off
Black Tone Off
RGB Only Mode Off
Color Space Native (as opposed to Auto)

From the "Picture Options Menu":
Color Tone Standard
Digital Clean View Off
MPEG Noise Filter Off
HDMI Black Level Low
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Standard
Cinema Black Off

2) When I put in your recommended numbers and the menu settings above, the broadcast 1080i (HD channels) looked great, but 480i (standard cable channels) looked worse compared to Samsung's standard "Movie" numbers and settings ??

a) Is this a case of more accurate settings exposing the flaws in imperfect media; like one finds on the audio side of things with more accurate/revealing speakers?
or
b) Is there another way to improve the 480i picture, i.e. "Channel Settings/Fine Tune"?

Thanks in advance,
XEagleDriver

Cheers,
XEagleDriver

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post #47 of 52 Old 04-21-2014, 09:56 PM
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hello superleo these settings you posted on the f5500 are excellent by far than the dics i have tried if there are any other settings you have too share that are helpful by all means please post them ASAP u d'man :):cool:

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post #48 of 52 Old 04-27-2014, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XEagleDriver View Post


Two questions.

1) To confirm "Any additional processing OFF" would mean . . .
From the "Advanced Settings Menu":
Dynamic Contrast Off
Black Tone Off
RGB Only Mode Off
Color Space Native (as opposed to Auto)

From the "Picture Options Menu":
Color Tone Standard
Digital Clean View Off
MPEG Noise Filter Off
HDMI Black Level Low
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Standard
Cinema Black Off

2) When I put in your recommended numbers and the menu settings above, the broadcast 1080i (HD channels) looked great, but 480i (standard cable channels) looked worse compared to Samsung's standard "Movie" numbers and settings ??

a) Is this a case of more accurate settings exposing the flaws in imperfect media; like one finds on the audio side of things with more accurate/revealing speakers?
or
b) Is there another way to improve the 480i picture, i.e. "Channel Settings/Fine Tune"?

Thanks in advance,
XEagleDriver

As far as any extra or additional processing, you could try it on/off and see which way you like it better. I am going with purist recommendation on not adding any additional processing, or as little proceeding, as needed, but I guess they are there for a reason and if they look better for you use them.

Regarding 480i/p, there is nothing you can do to make it look better. The information is just not there. If anything you can upconverted to 1080i/p that would make it decent but it will never be as real 1080. Most blurays upcomvert DVD, but if you are referring to broadcast source then a video processor would be needed such as a lumagen of DVDO.

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Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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post #49 of 52 Old 05-07-2014, 09:39 AM
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Awesome thread! Thanks Superleo!!smile.gif
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post #50 of 52 Old 05-22-2014, 01:52 PM
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Thanks Superleo.

Got my set today and started off with a different set of calibration settings found elsewhere in this forum.

After I got done, the picture was washed out and looked terrible. Even my wife commented how bad the picture was.

I changed my setting to match yours and the difference is amazing!

Now I see why so many of the comments describe the picture quality of this set as "amazing".

I'll probably try to calibrate it myself after the break-in period, but if this is as good as it gets I'm very happy with my purchase!

Thanks again.
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post #51 of 52 Old 06-13-2014, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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New Firmware out.
Just installed it, I don't know what actually changed, but not any naked eye differences perceived so far.

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
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Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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post #52 of 52 Old 07-14-2014, 08:10 AM
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Great thread.

Using these settings on the 51" F5500 and just one thing I'm noticing. It seems as if skin tones are a bit too reddish. To be honest, I'm not sure if it's just the content I'm watching or if the settings need tweaking.

Anyone care to comment or have any advice?

Thanks
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