### Samsung PN60F5500 - By the numbers (calibration and settings) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 52 Old 02-08-2014, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Samsung PN60F5500

I got my 5500 at the end of November, waited to have over 100 hours before I seriously started with the adjustments.

I researched the plasmas for a while, and bar none the best plasmas as of 2013 were the Panasonic VT and the Samsung F8500. I did not want to spend that much for the top tear model series so I started looking for the second tear models and found the Panasonic ST and the Samsung F5500. I ended getting the F5500 and very impressed.

The F5500 replaced a Hitachi 57 RPCRT that I still consider to have reference picture quality and its my point of comparison.

Beside the normal adjustments there is a voltage mod that improves black levels for this model. I'll wait after my warranty is over and I'll try the mod.

I finally had some time to do some real adjustments and compare among the different settings, specifically the "the dark room" and "HDMI black" settings.

I've notice that some calibrate their sets to have the highest light output possible, I calibrate my sets to have a comfortable light output that one would be able to watch with out eye fatigue for prolonged periods (more than one movie), I shot for mid 30s FtL.


The Numbers

The TV was calibrated to obtained a gamma of 2.2 and a 35 FtL. Color/Tint were adjusted using the isolation blue mode first and then adjusted with the colorimeter.
I used ColorHCFR, an Eye-1 colorimeter and AVSHD-709 for test patterns. The BD player is a PS4 through HDMI.




Grayscale & Color measurements

The TV performed excellently. Note that the contrast ration is almost 5,000:1 which is very good for a plasma, and tracked the RGB very evenly from 20 to 100.









Color wise also performed very well. The average Delta for all colors is below 5. Very respectable.







Complete ColorHCFR file

(Reneme the file by removing the .txt extension)
Samsung2.7.14Cal2.chc.txt 217k .txt file
Attached Files
File Type: txt Samsung2.7.14Cal2.chc.txt (217.4 KB, 54 views)
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post #2 of 52 Old 02-08-2014, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Menu Settings

Picture Settings

Cell - 16
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 15
Color - 50
Tint - G49-R51
Color Tone - Standard
HDMI Black Level - Low
Black Opt - Darkroom
Flesh Tones - -2
Gamma - 0

White Balance

ROff - 21
GOff - 24
BOff - 8
RGain - 45
GGain - 31
BGain - 15

Any additional processing OFF
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post #3 of 52 Old 02-08-2014, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Screen Shots












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post #4 of 52 Old 02-08-2014, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the thread. I'm thinking about grabbing one of these. How do you feel the shadow detail is after calibration?
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post #5 of 52 Old 02-08-2014, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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As you can see, it actually calibrates very nicely with very good results. The picture actually reflect the numbers.
It is a very good TV for the money. The PQ is very good. Very good detail and definition. Overall light output is exceptional, if needed for bright rooms. In light control rooms the picture quality really shines. Contrast and shadow detail, as the measured contrast ratio, 5,000:1 demonstrate is very good. Image depth is outstanding as well.

Another option to consider in its favor is its 3D picture quality. I'm not too experience with 3D but I could say that compares to 3D at a movie theater or better. I was really impressed with Pacific Rim 3D.

Really impressed with this tv... nice buy for the money.

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post #6 of 52 Old 02-09-2014, 07:53 PM
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Excellent results, Leo. You have the makings of a pro calibrator there! I still prefer our Hitachi CRT tho, it was so much fun dialing it in at your place, on that trip where we all went and saw Avatar at your IMAX.

If you have any way to change its gamma, we have been finding that 2.4 works better than 2.2 (see Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread). It gives you the gamma bump, which allows shadow detail to be more pronounced and available to your eyes in dark areas while keeping blacks still ultra inky black. I know your plas cannot match your Hitachi in the blacks - CRT is after all, CRT! - but having the shadow detail more available to see while the blacks stay black is a very nice perk if you can have it. It is especially valuable in relatively dark films like LOTR.

Check to see if there are various levels of gamma available on your set, in User section. Or if you can find anything in the service menu to that effect. If so choose the one that gives you that gamma bump. You'll be pleased, I am sure.

cool.gif

b

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post #7 of 52 Old 02-10-2014, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Bob, learned from the best (and still learning). I still consider the Hit to have a reference PQ and I use it as a point of comparison.

I had sometime during the weekend (no one home) to run the calibration with different scenarios. The TV has a gamma adjustment from the user menu. I tested it from -1 to +1. It appears that the gamma adjustment alters the higher end, from 70-100 but has very little effect on the lower end -- for shadow detail. I don't consider the blacks to be clipping of crushed but I would have to agree that it would probably look better with a little bump on the lower end. I did try upping it two clicks on the brightness and it seems to give a bump for shadow detail, but either way is acceptable to my eyes. I would have to remeasure to see the actual results.

I've been looking for a service manual and no one seems to be able to locate one. I'm sure there are tweaks that can help via the service menu, but I don't want to change anything until I get a copy of the service menu.

Thanks for the suggestions Bob, I'll rework it when time permits and will post the results.

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post #8 of 52 Old 02-10-2014, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Menu Settings

Picture Settings

Cell - 16
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 15
Color - 50
Tint - G49-R51
Color Tone - Standard
HDMI Black Level - Low
Black Opt - Darkroom
Flesh Tones - -2
Gamma - 0

White Balance

ROff - 21
GOff - 24
BOff - 8
RGain - 45
GGain - 31
BGain - 15

Any additional processing OFF

A few tips...

use cell light 20 (max) and then adjust contrast to desired light output (35fL in your case)

use whatever color temp is closest before adjusting white balance (usually Warm2 and in a few cases Warm1)... this will help avoid the need for large adjustments in red and blue (also I prefer to leave green offset and gain alone and use the main brightness and contrast controls for that purpose)

you don't need to use flesh tone at all, zero is fine for it... instead use color/tint and set color to minimize overall luma error for all colors (especially red) and tint to minimize secondary hue errors (especially yellow)


BTW, what meter do you have? i1D2? i1D3? something else?
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post #9 of 52 Old 02-10-2014, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^

Thanks for the tips, I'll have to see how these work next time I have a chance.

I have an Eye-1 D2 and a SpyderII.

I did my preliminary adjustment using the disc patterns first and running it through different modes. After doing this it appeared to me that the best mode to use was Movie mode / Standard. I know most recommend Movie / Warm2, but like I said after some going back and forth I liked Movie / Standard better.

I did color with the isolation blue mode first. This of course adjust tint and color. Then ran ColorHCFR and adjust accordingly. One thing I did not do though is run measurement for skin tones at -2 vs 0, as you are recommending. By having skin tones at -2 reduces the red push, at least by eye. Since I left it like this not sure if it would have better measurements for color by doing it the way you are suggesting, will have to test it.

Not sure if changing anything will give me any perceptible changes, but the measurements for sure can always improve... biggrin.gif

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post #10 of 52 Old 02-11-2014, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Excellent results, Leo. You have the makings of a pro calibrator there! I still prefer our Hitachi CRT tho, it was so much fun dialing it in at your place, on that trip where we all went and saw Avatar at your IMAX.

If you have any way to change its gamma, we have been finding that 2.4 works better than 2.2 (see Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread). It gives you the gamma bump, which allows shadow detail to be more pronounced and available to your eyes in dark areas while keeping blacks still ultra inky black. I know your plas cannot match your Hitachi in the blacks - CRT is after all, CRT! - but having the shadow detail more available to see while the blacks stay black is a very nice perk if you can have it. It is especially valuable in relatively dark films like LOTR.

Check to see if there are various levels of gamma available on your set, in User section. Or if you can find anything in the service menu to that effect. If so choose the one that gives you that gamma bump. You'll be pleased, I am sure.

cool.gif

b

2.2 has better shadow detail than 2.4 (due to brighter shadows against the same black background).
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post #11 of 52 Old 02-11-2014, 04:50 PM
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Can't claim to be authoritative on the numbers for gamma and what they are supposed to be, I just know that increasing the shadow detail - not going for "brighter shadows", as you stated - while keeping the blacks deep and inky black gives the best performance.

I saw pix on the Screenshot War thread showing this increased CR phenom at 2.4 vs. showing regular performance - where the shadow detail was less pronounced and pretty much got gobbled up by the grays - as 2.2. Upping the Brightness alone - without the gamma bump - ups both the shadow detail and the background grays, and as such does not increase the contrast ratio in the shadow details at all. Screenshot War thread is where I am getting my info from. You could very well be right about those numbers being reversed, I have not run any tests with a color analyzer on it, to pin down the numbers.

But I think we are on the same page, really, about what we are trying to achieve: better contrast ratio in the dark shadow detail areas. Right?

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post #12 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 04:29 AM
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This is great, thank you Leo!

Gonna try these out this weekend.
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post #13 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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A little disclaimer -- Keep in mind that this calibration was targeted for the light output to be 35FtL. These tvs can actually output 45> FtL. So if you've been watching your tv with user controls at cell 20, contrast 100 and brightness higher than 50, these settings will take some time to get use to, however, this is truly the way the TV should look.

Give it a try for a couple of days, let your eyes adjust to the correct picture, and pay attention to the details, shadows, and colors, after a short while you'll be noticing things that you did not before -- I'm sure you'll like it, but give it some time.
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post #14 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 03:47 PM
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Thanks for all the input everyone... I'm looking forward to getting home tonight and testing these setting out. Also, superleo, you said you used a ps4 bd for the calibration...I also have a ps4, would you recommend using these settings for games or should I just use game mode?
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post #15 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^

I have everything going to an Onkyo receiver and then out to the tv to HDMI-1. For what I've read, changing the tv input to computer/game helps with lag time and ghosting, if some knows for sure please step in, however, I'm not a gamer, do not play much, or almost nothing. My son is the one that relly plays, and I don't think he could destingush any difference on lag, or not, so for us/him is fine this way.

If you try the different modes and see a difference please let us know.

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post #16 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

^^^

I have everything going to an Onkyo receiver and then out to the tv to HDMI-1. For what I've read, changing the tv input to computer/game helps with lag time and ghosting, if some knows for sure please step in, however, I'm not a gamer, do not play much, or almost nothing. My son is the one that relly plays, and I don't think he could destingush any difference on lag, or not, so for us/him is fine this way.

If you try the different modes and see a difference please let us know.

When I first bought this tv I looked everywhere for recommended picture settings. I found something within avs that suggested picture settings for this set and I applied those and thought it looked really good but those settings are somewhat different than what you posted especially with white balance. Initially I tried those settings for the ps4 and didn't think it looked so great. I know game mode helps with input lag but I've heard it also negatively effects picture quality but with that being said when I turned game mode on I thought it looked a lot better than the picture settings I had been using.
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post #17 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 08:32 PM
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Should the color space be auto or native? Also I can't adjust the hdmi black level, it's greyed out...do you know why that is or how I can fix it?
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post #18 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I have color space native.
The HDMI black level shoul be available as long as the component/player connected to the input is HDMI.
If your player is connected by HDMI and is not available, I could not even guess the reason. Perhaps ask in the main owners thread.

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post #19 of 52 Old 02-12-2014, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

I have color space native.
The HDMI black level shoul be available as long as the component/player connected to the input is HDMI.
If your player is connected by HDMI and is not available, I could not even guess the reason. Perhaps ask in the main owners thread.

Ok thanks for your help I really appreciate it
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post #20 of 52 Old 02-17-2014, 10:34 AM
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hello I want to know wht picture mode are the calibrations setup with movie,standard etc. also can you email me the steps you took too get too the internal too reach the specs my email is traisrps3@gmail.com

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post #21 of 52 Old 02-17-2014, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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hello I want to know wht picture mode are the calibrations setup with movie,standard etc. also can you email me the steps you took too get too the internal too reach the specs my email is traisrps3@gmail.com

Welcome to AVS.

the calibration was done using Movie mode and standard color tone. Nothing has been changed in the service menu; I would like to get a service manual before doing anything in there. I have not been able to locate one.

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post #22 of 52 Old 03-04-2014, 08:36 PM
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now these calibrations for the PN60 F5500 ARE THEY EFFECTIVE WITHOUT BEENING ABLE TO GO INTO THE PANELS INNER MENU SETTINGS?

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post #23 of 52 Old 03-05-2014, 06:08 AM
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The settings here are in the normal user menus, if that's what you are asking. No need to go into the Service Menus.
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post #24 of 52 Old 03-05-2014, 12:07 PM
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okay great I tried these and they are fantastic even better than my settings that i tried with my ISF DISC by monster not saying that it was'nt good but i could not get the PQ that felt this tv was capable of i had the 5350 version of the samsung plasma and i did have professionally calibrated but by geeksquad tech i'm wondering how well versed are they in calibrations but the calibrations were fantastic so much so that a friend of mine was impressed enough to buy a plasma instead of a led tv thanks agian do you have any other tips that might be helpful to bring my viewing experience too another level? 

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post #25 of 52 Old 03-05-2014, 01:08 PM
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Yes that's a part of what I was asking regarding the settings but when you talk about the white balance and below that the r-gains etc I don't know how to get to those settings is what I'm asking about in the menu thanks TRAVISRPS
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post #26 of 52 Old 03-05-2014, 07:33 PM
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Go to Menu>Picture>Advanced Settings>White Balance
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post #27 of 52 Old 03-07-2014, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a word on using someone's settings. Keep in mind that these are calibrated settings. Every TV is somewhat different, plus the room light environment come in to play too.

If you don't own a meter, or do not care to get into calibration too deep, I would suggest to use a pattern disc to at least get your contrast / brightness close to where it need to be. Some Pixar BD discs include a THX video optimizer or you can opt for a more complete suit of patterns with Disney WOW, Spears & Munsil, DVE etc.

Also there are several FREE calibration discs on this forum too.

With this TV you can also calibrate color and tint using patterns and choosing to isolate blue though the menu. No need to use a blue filter.

You can get very nice result using just the basic user adjustments.
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post #28 of 52 Old 03-12-2014, 04:18 AM
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Thank you superleo for your settings!

 

Was looking for a nice 60" set, and showed my wife the Sharp 650 series 60" LCD - but the colors where to weird and weak, so I was not allowed to buy that one.

 

Bought this Samsung 60" plasma online, no chance to view it before delivery.

 

Set it up, and found the picture was kind of blue, and not too good looking.

 

Finished setting the Samsung up according to your settings the same second she got home.

 

Looks really nice, she said, but a bit dark.

 

After a fast look thru the menus, I managed to find the ECO settings, and some light sensor settings, and turned them off.

 

Oh, now it looks really nice, said my wife - success at last!

 

And, yes with your settings it looks really neutral and nice, you made really good job there!

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post #29 of 52 Old 03-14-2014, 07:59 PM
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Superleo,

How do we adjust (or turn off) overscan for this set? I'm using your settings and the picture quality is stunning.

Thank you,

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post #30 of 52 Old 03-15-2014, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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To adjust overscan:

Menu>picture>picture size>

Click "select" and a new menu should come up. For 0 overscan select "Screen Fit"

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
Screening Room - The Dream House
RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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