Pioneer Kuro Post Reset Recovery Guide - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 65 Old 06-07-2014, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Are you seeing the pixel on the vol offset flowchart or the yknofsad flowchart?

If you see it in the vol offset flowchart, you need to go to the appropriate recovery flowchart and adjust vol sus. If recovery flowchart instructs you to increase vol offset, you decrease vol sus. If the recovery flowchart instructs you to decrease vol offset, then you increase vol sus. Remember, you need to follow the vol offset flowchart to a T. If it instructs you to move to a recovery flowchart, do so, but it is at this point when you adjust vol sus and not vol offset.
makaveddie81 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 65 Old 06-07-2014, 07:59 PM
Member
 
sledhead1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
This must not be the pixel. Its always stuck not just during the masks. Even in normal viewing. I didnt see any other pixels while going through the vol offset flowchart. Nothing effects it and i dont see anything else in any of the masks other than the green one. when i fisrt go to it there all sorts of ir that slowly go away. is that what im looking for?
sledhead1 is offline  
post #33 of 65 Old 06-08-2014, 12:52 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by sledhead1 View Post

This must not be the pixel. Its always stuck not just during the masks. Even in normal viewing. I didnt see any other pixels while going through the vol offset flowchart. Nothing effects it and i dont see anything else in any of the masks other than the green one. when i fisrt go to it there all sorts of ir that slowly go away. is that what im looking for?

Sounds like you have a stuck pixel. I also have a intermittent stuck pixel on my 101fd that I ignore when going through the flowcharts. I've never performed the procedure on a 6020 so I wouldn't know what to look for, but the stuck pixel(s) showed up on the green mask (raster mask 19) in the vol offset flowchart on my 101fd. What you could do is, once you have set vol offset to the value that the vol offset flowchart tells you to, reduce vol sus a few click until you see misfires (they look like flashing or solid stuck pixels), then increase vol sus until they disappear.

Remember to set your voltages to their factory default values and perform this procedure in a darkened room, as the misfires are difficult to spot. You literally have to press your nose on the screen to see them. When putting up masks, make sure you use 60VS.

I went over the flowcharts in the service manual and have created a step by step for you with what I THINK you should see/do.

1. Display raster mask 12.
2. Set VOL OFFSET to tentative setting value minus 34 (68-34=34).
3. You should not see any misfires.
4. Display raster mask 10.
5. You should not see any misfires.
6. Display raster mask 2.
7. Set VOL OFFSET to tentative setting value plus 67 (68+67=135).
8. You might see misfires. If you do, proceed to Recovery Flowchart 1-3 and increase VOL SUS when it instructs you to reduce VOL OFFSET to remove misfires (do NOT reduce VOL OFFSET). As mentioned above, you could try reducing VOL SUS a bit to see if the misfires become more obvious.
9. Display raster mask 3.
10. This is where you should see misfires. If you do, proceed to Recovery Flowchart 1-4 and increase VOL SUS when it instructs you to reduce VOL OFFSET to remove misfires (do NOT reduce VOL OFFSET). As mentioned above, you could try reducing VOL SUS a bit to see if the misfires become more obvious.
11. Set VOL OFFSET back to 68.
12. Perform the VOL YKNOFSA D flowchart as per the instructions in the service manual to find the optimal VOL YKNOFSA D value. You should see the misfires when reducing VOL YKNOFSA D to 96 on raster mask 19, 18 or 23.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #34 of 65 Old 06-08-2014, 11:40 AM
Member
 
sledhead1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
ok ill give vol sus a go. I was trying y sus b. It only has a small range and it did nothing but i am not have any dead pixels or abnormally lit ones. I will look closer but the only thing i saw was maybe some dithering, nothing like the stuck pixel i have.
sledhead1 is offline  
post #35 of 65 Old 06-13-2014, 11:37 AM
Member
 
jrodefeld's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I wanted to post my experience with following the above guide on my reset KRP-500m. I was able to get the correct voltages by following the flowcharts in the 101/500m service manual. It is important to note that you may need to follow different flowcharts than other people with different raster masks showing the stuck pixels. For example, for makaveddie81 and others they used the green raster mask 22 pattern to detect the stuck pixels. I didn't notice any stuck pixels on that pattern but I did on the red raster mask 21.

I suggest everyone follow the flowcharts precisely from the service manual, as that is the source of this information and you can freely tailor the process to your particular display.

Not all problems have been resolved with my display. It still doesn't look as good as it did and black scenes sometimes look dirty. But I also only have about 160 hours since reset and I highly suspect that performance will improve in the next couple hundred hours. For those that just reset, I would encourage you to not get too impatient with picture quality problems. Just find the correct voltages and "break in" the display for a few hundred hours.

Here is a link to the service manual for all those that want it. I would suggest that ANYONE who has reset or otherwise tweaked their displays should have a copy of this to troubleshoot problems.

http://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_pro-.../download.html
jrodefeld is offline  
post #36 of 65 Old 06-13-2014, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
I wanted to post my experience with following the above guide on my reset KRP-500m. I was able to get the correct voltages by following the flowcharts in the 101/500m service manual. It is important to note that you may need to follow different flowcharts than other people with different raster masks showing the stuck pixels. For example, for makaveddie81 and others they used the green raster mask 22 pattern to detect the stuck pixels. I didn't notice any stuck pixels on that pattern but I did on the red raster mask 21.

I suggest everyone follow the flowcharts precisely from the service manual, as that is the source of this information and you can freely tailor the process to your particular display.

Not all problems have been resolved with my display. It still doesn't look as good as it did and black scenes sometimes look dirty. But I also only have about 160 hours since reset and I highly suspect that performance will improve in the next couple hundred hours. For those that just reset, I would encourage you to not get too impatient with picture quality problems. Just find the correct voltages and "break in" the display for a few hundred hours.

Here is a link to the service manual for all those that want it. I would suggest that ANYONE who has reset or otherwise tweaked their displays should have a copy of this to troubleshoot problems.

http://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_pro-.../download.html
I think I made it clear in the initial post that the main flowchart should be followed with precision, including instructions that divert the user to the recovery flowcharts. I simply included my own experience in each step as an examples. Although you saw artifacts on a different pattern than I did, both patterns are used to determine the minimum value for YKNOFSA D - which is why you have to set it to 103 before putting up those two patterns. The overview on page 194 of the 101/500M service manual is extremely handy (I have included it as an attachment and highlighted the section that is used to determine the minimum YKNOFSAD value).

How many hours have you aged it after setting the final voltages?

Thanks for posting feedback.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1.png
Views:	31
Size:	112.4 KB
ID:	114593  
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #37 of 65 Old 06-13-2014, 08:50 PM
Member
 
jrodefeld's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
I think I made it clear in the initial post that the main flowchart should be followed with precision, including instructions that divert the user to the recovery flowcharts. I simply included my own experience in each step as an examples. Although you saw artifacts on a different pattern than I did, both patterns are used to determine the minimum value for YKNOFSA D - which is why you have to set it to 103 before putting up those two patterns. The overview on page 194 of the 101/500M service manual is extremely handy (I have included it as an attachment and highlighted the section that is used to determine the minimum YKNOFSAD value).

How many hours have you aged it after setting the final voltages?

Thanks for posting feedback.
Very few hours since I last changed voltages. Ten maybe? About 162 hours since reset. Do you think its better to age the display with slides as opposed to just watching content?
jrodefeld is offline  
post #38 of 65 Old 06-13-2014, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
Very few hours since I last changed voltages. Ten maybe? About 162 hours since reset. Do you think its better to age the display with slides as opposed to just watching content?
I dont know. Im doing slides so i can rid of the very slight imprint of the service menu that I discovered after resetting. Seems like the display is more prone to burn in after reset.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #39 of 65 Old 06-17-2014, 11:21 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post
Not all problems have been resolved with my display. It still doesn't look as good as it did and black scenes sometimes look dirty.
Try to raise your red and green high value 1 step, it did the trick on mine. Was 503 for red and 492 for green, ended up at 504 red and 494 green.

Be aware that 72 and 75Hz share the same WB mode, so it will change for both, but differ from the 60Hz WB values. For 72Hz just play a blu ray before entering SM and changing the values. If your ABL value for 72Hz is 126, raise it to 128 too.

You can use the QSI command to confirm you have the good input signal (starts with 72VS for instance), and QPW to confirm you are in the right white balance mode.

The differences for one single step are huge color-wise and affect all picture modes including ISF, you can check the results without rebooting.

Last edited by lnarbi; 06-17-2014 at 11:23 AM.
lnarbi is offline  
post #40 of 65 Old 06-17-2014, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
Try to raise your red and green high value 1 step, it did the trick on mine. Was 503 for red and 492 for green, ended up at 504 red and 494 green.

Be aware that 72 and 75Hz share the same WB mode, so it will change for both, but differ from the 60Hz WB values. For 72Hz just play a blu ray before entering SM and changing the values. If your ABL value for 72Hz is 126, raise it to 128 too.

You can use the QSI command to confirm you have the good input signal (starts with 72VS for instance), and QPW to confirm you are in the right white balance mode.

The differences for one single step are huge color-wise and affect all picture modes including ISF, you can check the results without rebooting.
Would this be the equivalent of adjusting the same values in the regular menu during calibration? I plan on calibrating mine after 200 hours of aging.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #41 of 65 Old 06-17-2014, 03:11 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
I think it's somewhat different as it affects ISF aswell, worth to give it a try, it's easy to get back if it doesn't help or make things worse.
lnarbi is offline  
post #42 of 65 Old 06-17-2014, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I think it's somewhat different as it affects ISF aswell, worth to give it a try, it's easy to get back if it doesn't help or make things worse.
I'm assuming it would be the same if I adjust on the modes that I will be calibrating (ISF Night and ISF Day). Will give it a shot after I hit the 200 hour mark.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #43 of 65 Old 06-17-2014, 04:07 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
I'd say it mainly affects the light effects, when I've put in the values I use know I immediately noticed the increase in the picture depth, the increase in in-depth sharpness and that moving people looked like real 3D objects moving inside the picture, which was more subtle before.
lnarbi is offline  
post #44 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 01:47 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
This is my experience with 2 LX5090H sets, one being reset at around 4K hours and no red tint, the other one not reset at 14k hours, with stock voltages and red tint.
Both are identical models, same panel, same SM values (except RSTP).

Mostly, talking about color accuracy and density, overall sharpness (still or in motion), overall depth and sense of 3D on moving objects, they are quite the same, and the sets need to be both displaying the same content to be able to tell there are differences (except red tint of course).

But 2 things are really different between both sets :

- the reset display is having a hard time to display dark colors on very low APL content (think game of thrones in the dark scenes) and a comparison side by side between the sets show that despite the red tint, the non reset display always seem accurate, even on these colors. I think it's mostly the shades of dark red that are having a hard time on the reset display. It seems there is no way to get this right again. I removed the dirty effect by using the red and green high SM values from the non reset one but low colors are still impossible (for me) to get back right.

- the overall brightness between the 2 sets is like night and day. My ISF night on the reset display produces the same light output as my ISF day on the non reset one. If I put both on ISF day (and same settings) the reset display blows the other one completely away in terms of light output and perfect whites.

That makes me wonder if the kuros progressively loose overall brightness, or if this increased brightness on the other one is a consequence of the reset. But fact is that in high APL scenes, the light effects feel more real on the reset display than the non reset one. On the other hand, on low APL scenes, the non reset display remains accurate despite its red tint, as the reset display is no more.

Have other multiple kuro owners found out such overall brightness differences between sets ?

BTW : energy saving and light sensor disabled on both sets, ABL at same values on all modes, and same ISF settings. I tried to raise contrast on the non reset one, above 40 whites start to clip so I stopped at 38, which equals to 20 on the other set.

Last edited by lnarbi; 06-20-2014 at 01:57 AM.
lnarbi is offline  
post #45 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
This is my experience with 2 LX5090H sets, one being reset at around 4K hours and no red tint, the other one not reset at 14k hours, with stock voltages and red tint.
Both are identical models, same panel, same SM values (except RSTP).

Mostly, talking about color accuracy and density, overall sharpness (still or in motion), overall depth and sense of 3D on moving objects, they are quite the same, and the sets need to be both displaying the same content to be able to tell there are differences (except red tint of course).

But 2 things are really different between both sets :

- the reset display is having a hard time to display dark colors on very low APL content (think game of thrones in the dark scenes) and a comparison side by side between the sets show that despite the red tint, the non reset display always seem accurate, even on these colors. I think it's mostly the shades of dark red that are having a hard time on the reset display. It seems there is no way to get this right again. I removed the dirty effect by using the red and green high SM values from the non reset one but low colors are still impossible (for me) to get back right.

- the overall brightness between the 2 sets is like night and day. My ISF night on the reset display produces the same light output as my ISF day on the non reset one. If I put both on ISF day (and same settings) the reset display blows the other one completely away in terms of light output and perfect whites.

That makes me wonder if the kuros progressively loose overall brightness, or if this increased brightness on the other one is a consequence of the reset. But fact is that in high APL scenes, the light effects feel more real on the reset display than the non reset one. On the other hand, on low APL scenes, the non reset display remains accurate despite its red tint, as the reset display is no more.

Have other multiple kuro owners found out such overall brightness differences between sets ?

BTW : energy saving and light sensor disabled on both sets, ABL at same values on all modes, and same ISF settings. I tried to raise contrast on the non reset one, above 40 whites start to clip so I stopped at 38, which equals to 20 on the other set.
These are very interesting observations. Did you raise VOL SUS on the reset display? If so, I have read that ABL needs to decreased if VOL SUS is increased. Haven't done so myself, but just a little FYI.

I'm going to experiment tonight and measure my reset 101fd (with VOL SUS at 178, required to remove artifacts) to see if its light output matches its pre-reset light output (the set was calibrated before reset). If the light output is significantly higher, then I will reduce VOL SUS to its default value and reduce Y SUS B to remove artifacts and measure again.

Dirty/noisy picture on low APL scenes (and an all black field) seems to be a prevalent issue on most reset displays. I am battling it right now along with some weird temporary IR on an all black screen that doesn't go away until I put up some content.

Will keep you posted.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #46 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 04:01 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
The reset one has VSUS and FSAD at 135, that's the only adjustments, everything else to default.
IR has gone completely, it behaves like my non reset one on this.

The only thing that I did (or just simply not did) is letting the screen unpowered (with no power cord) for more than a month.

It's right that vsus raises brightness, but 7 clics is not a huge step, and could not make such a difference.
I recall the reset display, before it was reset, when entering service menu had a big rise in light output, like semi torch mode. The other one when entering the service menu, the light output doesn't change.

I think the reset display has normal behaviour on this, the other one might be a bit tired...
lnarbi is offline  
post #47 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
The reset one has VSUS and FSAD at 135, that's the only adjustments, everything else to default.
IR has gone completely, it behaves like my non reset one on this.

The only thing that I did (or just simply not did) is letting the screen unpowered (with no power cord) for more than a month.

It's right that vsus raises brightness, but 7 clics is not a huge step, and could not make such a difference.
I recall the reset display, before it was reset, when entering service menu had a big rise in light output, like semi torch mode. The other one when entering the service menu, the light output doesn't change.

I think the reset display has normal behaviour on this, the other one might be a bit tired...
How many hours after reset did it take for IR to go away?
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #48 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 05:26 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
I don't know when precisely, it's around 400hrs now since reset.
lnarbi is offline  
post #49 of 65 Old 06-20-2014, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I don't know when precisely, it's around 400hrs now since reset.
Dirty low APL scenes and and dirty blacks persisting even after 400 hours after reset does not bode well for my current panel aging technique, as those are the symptoms I am trying to remove.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #50 of 65 Old 06-21-2014, 01:24 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
This might be the side effect of a reset that can't be fixed. I remember bumtious saying that after a reset a lot of things happen under 30IRE, especially in red.
But if you watch CSI Miami all the time, the screen is perfect and really has a wonderfull picture
lnarbi is offline  
post #51 of 65 Old 06-21-2014, 05:24 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
I put yesterday the combi mask 6 pattern on the non reset display, and it was completely free of misfires. The reset one gets plenty magenta misfires (no matter what I do), that still makes me believe that a reset panel won't behave like a non reset one ever.

Anyway I'm still trying to decide if I should keep those 2 or sell both to buy a new 55VT60 which is currently still available for 1700€, from an internet retailer though (I really don't like the fact to buy a plasma from an internet retailer, but they are the only ones left in France). I still don't know what to do, and I know in a few months it will be too late for a new in the box VT60... Hard choice

Last edited by lnarbi; 06-21-2014 at 05:29 AM.
lnarbi is offline  
post #52 of 65 Old 06-21-2014, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I put yesterday the combi mask 6 pattern on the non reset display, and it was completely free of misfires. The reset one gets plenty magenta misfires (no matter what I do), that still makes me believe that a reset panel won't behave like a non reset one ever.

Anyway I'm still trying to decide if I should keep those 2 or sell both to buy a new 55VT60 which is currently still available for 1700€, from an internet retailer though (I really don't like the fact to buy a plasma from an internet retailer, but they are the only ones left in France). I still don't know what to do, and I know in a few months it will be too late for a new in the box VT60... Hard choice
Combi mask 60, and all other masks for that matter, are squeaky clean on my 101fd. The key for combi mask 6 is the vol sus value.

Follow my guide on the first post of this thread to find your correct voltages.

I agree that all the anomalies we see at 30 IRE and below are reset battle scars that cant be removed. I believe that those are caused by the pulse meter no longer being in line with the panels age.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #53 of 65 Old 06-21-2014, 05:25 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
I don't care about misfires on patterns, really, they never show on normal content.
Vol sus is good where it is, this panel is bright enough, even too much, ISF Night at contrast 20 can go really bright at moments.

The first scene in total recall with the stroboscopic white lights comes to mind, I just showed it to a friend this evening all lights off and ISF Day (lol), he just said "WOW calm down".
What ? Plasmas are not bright enough ? Eat this

Last edited by lnarbi; 06-21-2014 at 05:55 PM.
lnarbi is offline  
post #54 of 65 Old 06-21-2014, 11:51 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
I don't care about misfires on patterns, really, they never show on normal content.
Vol sus is good where it is, this panel is bright enough, even too much, ISF Night at contrast 20 can go really bright at moments.

The first scene in total recall with the stroboscopic white lights comes to mind, I just showed it to a friend this evening all lights off and ISF Day (lol), he just said "WOW calm down".
What ? Plasmas are not bright enough ? Eat this
I did some testing with vol sus and ysus b and their final values, derived from the process in the first post of this thread, cause a 2ftl rise in overall brightness.

Isf night with default values is 31ftl. With modified vol sus or ysus b values, light output went up to 33ftl. I saw the same 2ftl increase in isf day mode, from 49 with default to 51 with modified values.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #55 of 65 Old 06-22-2014, 01:43 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Inarbi, how uniform does the image look on an all black field? By black field I mean an actual feed of a black field and not a blank input.

Mine, on very close inspection, looks very much like watching a very dark static signal, with blotches of pixels dancing around.

I am hopeful that this will clear up with aging and it would bee good to know where your set, with its 400 hours of post reset aging, stands in this regard.
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #56 of 65 Old 06-22-2014, 02:57 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
That's the same behavior an all my panels, if you put your nose on the screen you see tiny dancing lighted pixels.
We will still see a glow no matter what we do, and that is the glow we see. If you get rid of them you get an OLED TV, and that's technically impossible.
craigyboy likes this.
lnarbi is offline  
post #57 of 65 Old 06-22-2014, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
That's the same behavior an all my panels, if you put your nose on the screen you see tiny dancing lighted pixels.
We will still see a glow no matter what we do, and that is the glow we see. If you get rid of them you get an OLED TV, and that's technically impossible.
I understand the glow is normal and inherent of plasma technology, since ot cant turn individual pixels off. I can see the small dancing pixels on my non reset 141 and they dont bother me at all. The dancing pixels are much more pronounced on the reset 101. It doesnt look like individual pixels dancing around, but more like moving blotches like watching a static signal.

Do you see a difference on a black field feed between your reset and non reset displays?
makaveddie81 is online now  
post #58 of 65 Old 06-22-2014, 11:49 AM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
They almost behave the same (except on is red and the other one is black )
lnarbi is offline  
post #59 of 65 Old 06-23-2014, 02:29 PM
Member
 
lnarbi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked: 18
From Bumtious on AVF :

Quote:
The set over drives for around 200-225 hours, then that circuitry drops out, the next 50 hours its looks yuk then it really starts to settle, dont worry if blacks are not perfectly uniform that's why it needs 4-500 hours to settle, once settled,,,,mmmmm

Might be the same behavior after a reset.
lnarbi is offline  
post #60 of 65 Old 06-23-2014, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
makaveddie81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
From Bumtious on AVF :




Might be the same behavior after a reset.
Wow, great find! Definitely made my day! Aging process resuming today.
makaveddie81 is online now  
Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off