Pioneer Kuro Post Reset Recovery Guide - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 65 Old 05-19-2014, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Let me open this up by saying that I do NOT encourage resetting or tweaking Kuros. I am NOT responsible for any damage that may occur on your display. Proceed at your own risk. I am merely posting this to share my experience in repairing my reset 101fd.

This guide is meant for the unfortunate souls who have reset their displays and have been unable to escape the various artifacts that are inherent in a reset. A few months ago, I idiotically reset my 101fd for reasons I wish not to discuss, and have been battling artifacts such as black rain, image retention and magenta sparkles for months, simply hoping that they would go away with panel aging. Well, I reached my boiling point yesterday and decided to take matters into my own hands. I believe I finally cracked the code to repair reset Kuros as i was able to not only get my Kuro back to its original stock glory, but am also able to tweak it to lower black levels with very minimal artifacts.

Below is the process I performed:

1. Set ALL voltages to factory default values using the below guide. Since RSTP is a panel specific voltage, its good practice to set it to 0 and power off and on the display as it will revert back to its original value.

PRO-101FD / KRP-500M
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 113
VOL RSTP = 18
VOL XPOFS1 = 85
VOL XPOFS2 = 63
VOL YNOFS1 D = 138
VOL YNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YNOFS4 D = 149
VOL YNOFSA D = 128

PRO-141FD / KRP-600M / PRO-151FD / PDP-6020FD
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 68
VOL RSTP = 18
VOL XPOFS1 = 105
VOL XPOFS2 = 63
VOL YNOFS1 D = 86
VOL YNOFS3 D = 96
VOL YNOFS4 D = 143
VOL YNOFSA D = 128

PRO-111FD / PDP-5020FD
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 129
VOL RSTP = 31
VOL XPOFS1 = 85
VOL XPOFS2 = 47
VOL YNOFS1 D = 143
VOL YNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YNOFS4 D = 172
VOL YNOFSA D = 128

2. Perform the "Checking VOL OFFSET" flowchart for your respective display (for 101fd and krp500m, page 196 in the service manual). Keep in mind that when the service manual states to set VOL OFFSET to the tentative setting value plus/minus XX, the tentative setting value is your factory default value. For instance, in the first step, it states to set VOL OFFSET to the tentative setting value minus 45. In my case, I set it to 113 - 45 = 68. You will see a stuck pixel(s) in one of the internal patterns. In my case, I saw a stuck pixel on raster mask 19 (the 3rd and final step of the flowchart). If you see a stuck pixel, go to the appropriate recovery flowchart. In my case, I redirected to recovery flowchart 1-3. Although recovery flowchart 1-3 instructs you to reduce VOL OFFSET until the stuck pixel disappears, you need to increase VOL SUS and leave VOL OFFSET untouched. As you get closer to the correct VOL SUS value, the stuck pixel will start to blink. You will be at the correct VOL SUS value when the stuck pixel completely disappears. Complete the recovery flowchart while setting VOL OFFSET to the values requested in the recovery flowchart and ignore the recovery flowchart's instruction to return to the main flowchart. In my case, I ended up with a VOL SUS value of 168 (from a default of 128) and a 113 (default) value for VOL OFFSET. Getting VOL SUS just right allows you to keep your default VOL OFFSET and is the key to this procedure.

3. Perform the "Checking VOL YKNOFSA D" flowchart for your respective display (for 101fd and krp500m, page 197 in the service manual). Keep in mind that when the service manual states to set VOL YKNOFSA D to the tentative setting value XXX, you need to set VOL YKNOFSA D to XXX. For instance, in the first step, it states to set VOL YKNOFSA D to the tentative setting value 103. You need to set VOL YKNOFSA D to 103, as instructed. You will see a stuck pixel(s) in one of the internal patterns. In my case, I saw a stuck pixel on raster mask 22 (the 2nd step of the flowchart). If you see a stuck pixel, go to the appropriate recovery flowchart. In my case, I redirected to recovery flowchart 2-2. Perform the recovery flowchart as instructed. Recovery flowchart 2-2 instructs you to increase VOL YKNOFSA D until the stuck pixel disappears. As you get closer to the correct VOL YKNOFSA D value, the stuck pixel will start to blink. This is where you need to apply granular VOL YKNOFSA D adjustments, as you are very close to finding the correct value. You will be at the correct VOL YKNOFSA D value when the stuck pixel completely disappears. Ignore the VOL YKNOFS3 D + VOL YKNOFSA D < 254 condition. Continue with recovery flowchart while setting VOL YKNOFSA D to the values requested in the recovery flowchart and ignore the recovery flowchart's instruction to return to the main flowchart. In my case, I ended up with a VOL YKNOFSA D value of 154. Getting VOL YKNOFSA D just right allows you to keep your default VOL YKNOFS1 D, VOL YKNOFS3 D and VOL YKNOFS4 D values for easier voltage tweaking, if desired, since the allowable factory range remains intact.

4. Your Kuro is now back to stock performance. In my case, my 101fd was no longer experiencing black rain or image retention and ALL internal patterns were clean even in the different modes. My i1 display 3 pro was unable to measure the black level, and the black area of the 30% greyscale pattern in the AVSHD709 blended in with the bezel (which is where stock 101fd's and 500m's usually are). If you wish to further tweak and lower black level, proceed to step 6, otherwise you can end this procedure. Make sure to set your brightness correctly using a PLUGE pattern of your choice.

Keep in mind that I performed this on a reset 101fd, so I am not sure if it will work on other panels or the 60 inch iterations. My findings suggest that the key is to find the correct VOL SUS value by going through the "Checking VOL OFFSET" flowchart while ignoring instructions to decrease VOL OFFSET in the RECOVERY FLOWCHARTS and increasing VOL SUS instead. Once this has been accomplished, then the "Checking VOL YKNOFSA D" flowchart can be performed normally.
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Last edited by makaveddie81; 06-21-2014 at 12:09 PM.
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post #2 of 65 Old 05-19-2014, 09:05 PM
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Someone please tell me this works on a 6020. I am not near my tv for at least a couple weeks yet.
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post #3 of 65 Old 05-19-2014, 11:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Someone please tell me this works on a 6020. I am not near my tv for at least a couple weeks yet.

I truly believe it should. Just follow the flowcharts in the 6020 manual. Remember, the key is to increase VOL SUS when any of the recovery flowcharts instruct you to decrease VOL OFFSET. When going through the main flowchart for VOL OFFSET, you should see a stuck pixel on the green pattern, which will direct you to one of the recovery flowcharts. Is is here where the recovery flowchart will instruct you to reduce VOL OFFSET and you increase VOL SUS and leave VOL OFFSET intact. Once you have completed the VOL OFFSET flowchart and found your VOL SUS value, you can proceed to the VOL YKNOFSA D main flowhcart as perform it as you normally would, just ignore the "< 254" condition.
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post #4 of 65 Old 05-20-2014, 11:06 AM
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Thanks Ed for posting this!

We all know the "Theory" behind finding the correct voltage. We all know how to read texts books.

Thanks for getting us out of the classroom and in the field of actually putting it to the test. You discovered something never posted before and a actual workflow. Which is what doers and not just teachers want.

Like when I was in fire school. Classroom you learned about fire. But you couldn't wait to actually be inside one smile.gif. And only in that moment you actually learned something!

Great job and thanks for sharing!!!
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post #5 of 65 Old 05-21-2014, 09:03 AM
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Hi all

After I did a reset there was horrible image retention so I didn't get as far as watching much content to look for artifacts.

I have followed the service menu flowcharts to the letter with the exception of raising VOL SUS as oppose to lowing VOL OFFSET to get the same results and my new readings are

VOL SUS 140
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RSTP 018
VOL XPOFS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 063
VOL YKNOFS1 138
VOL YKNOFS3 128
VOL YKNOFS4 149
VOL YKNOFSA 156

Image retention is now what I would call normal. It's there but dissipates within 10 seconds or so, so that's a lot better.

There still appears to be a small amount of "black rain" when bringing up the service menu or on the input icon in the top R/H corner of the screen

When turning on the Oppo there where definite bright white sparkles on the black background but when playing the 5% screen there where hardly any and more importantly no image retention stayed on the background

I have turned the Oppo off and on again since and there were less sparkles than the first time but they are still going off

White screen is 100% clear of any problems

Blacks aren't particularly low but not really bad either and there maybe a small amount of tint coming through, but very little if it is.

I haven't noticed anything bad on a moving picture, is there something in particular that I would notice?

That's where I am at the moment, it's not perfect yet but at least it doesn't look like an un-watchable set which it did last night.

It's close now hopefully but any tips on where to go from here would be appreciated

Many thanks

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigglebug View Post



Hi all



After I did a reset there was horrible image retention so I didn't get as far as watching much content to look for artifacts.


I have followed the service menu flowcharts to the letter with the exception of raising VOL SUS as oppose to lowing VOL OFFSET to get the same results and my new readings are


VOL SUS 140

VOL OFFSET 113

VOL RSTP 018

VOL XPOFS1 085

VOL XPOFS2 063

VOL YKNOFS1 138

VOL YKNOFS3 128

VOL YKNOFS4 149

VOL YKNOFSA 156


Image retention is now what I would call normal. It's there but dissipates within 10 seconds or so, so that's a lot better.


There still appears to be a small amount of "black rain" when bringing up the service menu or on the input icon in the top R/H corner of the screen


When turning on the Oppo there where definite bright white sparkles on the black background but when playing the 5% screen there where hardly any and more importantly no image retention stayed on the background


I have turned the Oppo off and on again since and there were less sparkles than the first time but they are still going off


White screen is 100% clear of any problems


Blacks aren't particularly low but not really bad either and there maybe a small amount of tint coming through, but very little if it is.


I haven't noticed anything bad on a moving picture, is there something in particular that I would notice?


That's where I am at the moment, it's not perfect yet but at least it doesn't look like an un-watchable set which it did last night.


It's close now hopefully but any tips on where to go from here would be appreciated


Many thanks


 



Glad to hear that the method worked for you and it looks like your panel (with the exception of black rain) is currently in the same state as mine - very, very close to stock. I have no black rain on menus, some very minor IR when going into black (goes away in less than 5 seconds) and all patterns are clean. Upon close inspection (literally pressing my nose on the screen) I do see some white sparkles on an all black screen and on the 5% greyscale window, along with what looks to be dithering - dancing dark grey colored pixels. There seems to be a missing piece to this puzzle and I have tried almost every voltage combination imaginable to get rid of this behavior with no luck so far. It wont bother me one bit if I can't find the missing piece, since the panel is oh so close to stock that anyone would have a hard time.

Instead of increasing VOL SUS on the VOL OFFSET recovery chart, leave VOL SUS at 128 and reduce Y SUS B (its on the second page) one tick at a time. The stuck pixel went away after a 2 click reduction. Then proceed with SAD flowchart normally. The results are identical compared to adjusting VOL SUS, though I believe the Y SUS B is a better alternative since it seems to control the voltage going into the Y assembly board, which is where VOL OFFSET, RSTP, S1, S3 and S4 "live". I haven't updated the guide because I will continue testing tonight. I believe the missing piece of the puzzle is either related to the X assembly board, RSTP or the SAD portion of the flowchart.
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post #7 of 65 Old 05-21-2014, 07:41 PM
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Well it's good in a way to hear that you panel has reacted the same as mine even though to a lesser degree. I will give the Y SUS B theory a go. I thought I had got rid of the sparkles by lowering YKNOFS1 but it didn't really work and it was at such a low setting - 85. The bizarre thing is if I play RST MENU 5 (black screen) there isn't any sign's of sparkles and again if no input is being passed through the set there are none but as soon as the black Oppo menu is up they are there and again on a 5% window (to a lesser degree) The biggest problem at the moment is the raise in blacks. Before the reset I managed (with tweaking) to get a virtually black screen on film credits for example but now they are rather grey (the bars are still black though so I'm not sure what that implies) Having a play now before sleep, will update in the morning as to what I find

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigglebug View Post

Well it's good in a way to hear that you panel has reacted the same as mine even though to a lesser degree. I will give the Y SUS B theory a go. I thought I had got rid of the sparkles by lowering YKNOFS1 but it didn't really work and it was at such a low setting - 85. The bizarre thing is if I play RST MENU 5 (black screen) there isn't any sign's of sparkles and again if no input is being passed through the set there are none but as soon as the black Oppo menu is up they are there and again on a 5% window (to a lesser degree) The biggest problem at the moment is the raise in blacks. Before the reset I managed (with tweaking) to get a virtually black screen on film credits for example but now they are rather grey (the bars are still black though so I'm not sure what that implies) Having a play now before sleep, will update in the morning as to what I find

Yes I am seeing the same thing on my end. It looks fine with no signal... different story once I put up the 5% greyscale pattern.

Yeah not sure why someone would suggest lowering S1, when the purpose of raising SAD (which is required after reset) is to increase S1, S3 and S4 to their proper values to compensate for aging.

That is why I am against reset unless its a last resort to remove stubborn red tint. I also had a virtually black screen and my blacks almost blended in with the bezel on the 5% greyscale pattern (definitely on the 10%) with zero artifacts. Now after reset and reset repair, my blacks blend in at around the 35% greyscale pattern, which is where stock 9.5G panels blend in at. I believe the last piece of the puzzle is related to this. Perhaps we need to build hours on our panels after reset repair for all this to get corrected and be able to tweak again.
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post #9 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 03:40 AM
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I did the flow charts again but instead of raising SUS I decreased Y SUS B. This time on a green screen raising SAD had no effect on the stuck pixel even at 200 so I took a punt on raising SUS instead and it did the trick. Nothing else was different but the results were still pretty awful again!

 

Then remembered that I had changed from the Isf night to Movie the other day whilst using the contrast and brightness calibration test on a dvd as it was more accurate for what ever reason. Changed it back and it's made a big difference to the results (re-did parts of the flow charts which were effected). Less demanding?? Everything is a lot cleaner and tint was dramatically reduced. Black levels were better too

 

Not touching RST at the moment but having to drop SAD low to get a deep even black with no tint. It's making the biggest difference by a mile, 110 at the moment but moving back up hopefully if I can. Been playing with YKNOFS1, 2 and 3 but haven't worked out what is working best yet so keep reverting back to the factory figures. So at the moment

VOL SUS 154
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RST P 018
VOL XPOPS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D 149
VOL YKNOFSA D 110

Y SUS_B -3 from factory setting

This is all subject to change obviously and input welcomed!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigglebug View Post

I did the flow charts again but instead of raising SUS I decreased Y SUS B. This time on a green screen raising SAD had no effect on the stuck pixel even at 200 so I took a punt on raising SUS instead and it did the trick. Nothing else was different but the results were still pretty awful again!

Then remembered that I had changed from the Isf night to Movie the other day whilst using the contrast and brightness calibration test on a dvd as it was more accurate for what ever reason. Changed it back and it's made a big difference to the results (re-did parts of the flow charts which were effected). Less demanding?? Everything is a lot cleaner and tint was dramatically reduced. Black levels were better too

Not touching RST at the moment but having to drop SAD low to get a deep even black with no tint. It's making the biggest difference by a mile, 110 at the moment but moving back up hopefully if I can. Been playing with YKNOFS1, 2 and 3 but haven't worked out what is working best yet so keep reverting back to the factory figures. So at the moment

VOL SUS 154
VOL OFFSET 113
VOL RST P 018
VOL XPOPS1 085
VOL XPOFS2 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D 149
VOL YKNOFSA D 110

Y SUS_B -3 from factory setting

This is all subject to change obviously and input welcomed!

Thanks for adding to the thread, all information helps.

If I am reading your post correctly, reducing ysusb removed the stuck pixel in the vol offset flowchart right? On my 101fd, the pixel alwas appears on the green pattern when I set offset to 191 (as per the flowchart). A 2 click reduction of ysusb removed the stuck pixel.

Im gonna give the second part of your method a try, increasing sus to remove stuck pixel in yknofsad flowchart. On mine, the pixel also always appears on the green pattern when I set yknofsad to 103 as per the manual.

What picture mode did you use on your final run through the flowcharts?

Do you still see IR and dirty black on a full black screen or the 5% greyscale pattern?

I did some tests with the second page voltages and none of them do anything, with the exception being ysusb and xsusb.

Im still seeing IR when going into black and a bunch of dancing dark grey dots on an all black screen (mind you this is in a pitch black room). To me, it looks like theres 2 layers - one being the dancing dots with the underneath layer being IR.

I raised rstp to 128 and it did remove the dancing dots, but my black level was lcd like and the second layer (IR) remained.

I think these two issues are pulse meter related and theres nothing we can do except age the pabel a bit.

My panel looks just fine with regular content so Im not gonna stress over artifacts that i only see on an all black screen or a calibration pattern.
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post #11 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 11:18 AM
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If I am reading your post correctly, reducing ysusb removed the stuck pixel in the vol offset flowchart right? On my 101fd, the pixel alwas appears on the green pattern when I set offset to 191 (as per the flowchart). A 2 click reduction of ysusb removed the stuck pixel.

Im gonna give the second part of your method a try, increasing sus to remove stuck pixel in yknofsad flowchart. On mine, the pixel also always appears on the green pattern when I set yknofsad to 103 as per the manual.

 

 

Yes all of the above is correct. SAD just wouldn't get rid of the pixel. It's just a coincidence that Stu from the Uk had shown me his settings yesterday and he has reduced his ysusb but also raised his SUS. It was only because of this that I tried it.

 

 

 

 

Im still seeing IR when going into black and a bunch of dancing dark grey dots on an all black screen (mind you this is in a pitch black room). To me, it looks like theres 2 layers - one being the dancing dots with the underneath layer being IR

 

Yes I have the same problem. The reduction of SAD is what is covering this up to at the moment. Before reset I'm sure I that found that dropping 

VOL YKNOFS1
VOL YKNOFS3

  

also helped to cover up the grey level of pixels giving a uniform black screen (raising VOL YKNOFS4 to cover up artifacts) but they were very low and it must have been having an effect on crushing the blacks. I might go back to this though to give it another go but a quote from Avforums

 

YKNOFS1 D changes gamma near black
lower it will give you the wrong near black gamma.
you probably see it if you put up the 5% white window that it starts to look dirty and redish if you lower S1 to much.
as i see it S1 should stay in the adjustment range for your Kuro.
i have mine set at 121 which is the lowest

 

At the moment the 5% looks pretty good with no red in at all and uniform grey so it might not be worth messing with, I'll see

 

Isf night is the picture mode I'm going to use from now, it seems to have made a big difference to the results. I can only assume that this is because there is less strain being put on the panel??

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Do you still see IR and dirty black on a full black screen or the 5% greyscale pattern?

 

There are parts of the service menu which look permanent for the time being but it only shows on the lighter test screens so hopefully won't last forever and don't show on normal content. Fingers crossed!!

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I'm posting this on both forums as I'm bouncing between the 2 at the moment. Looks like a sharing of knowledge and finding's would be a good thing. I'm clearly benefiting from the advice and experience given on both threads and hopefully giving a little bit back via my own finding's as well
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigglebug View Post

If I am reading your post correctly, reducing ysusb removed the stuck pixel in the vol offset flowchart right? On my 101fd, the pixel alwas appears on the green pattern when I set offset to 191 (as per the flowchart). A 2 click reduction of ysusb removed the stuck pixel.


Im gonna give the second part of your method a try, increasing sus to remove stuck pixel in yknofsad flowchart. On mine, the pixel also always appears on the green pattern when I set yknofsad to 103 as per the manual.


Yes all of the above is correct. SAD just wouldn't get rid of the pixel. It's just a coincidence that Stu from the Uk had shown me his settings yesterday and he has reduced his ysusb but also raised his SUS. It was only because of this that I tried it.




Im still seeing IR when going into black and a bunch of dancing dark grey dots on an all black screen (mind you this is in a pitch black room). To me, it looks like theres 2 layers - one being the dancing dots with the underneath layer being IR

Yes I have the same problem. The reduction of SAD is what is covering this up to at the moment. Before reset I'm sure I that found that dropping 






VOL YKNOFS1
VOL YKNOFS3

  
also helped to cover up the grey level of pixels giving a uniform black screen (raising VOL YKNOFS4 to cover up artifacts) but they were very low and it must have been having an effect on crushing the blacks. I might go back to this though to give it another go but a quote from Avforums

YKNOFS1 D changes gamma near black
lower it will give you the wrong near black gamma.
you probably see it if you put up the 5% white window that it starts to look dirty and redish if you lower S1 to much.
as i see it S1 should stay in the adjustment range for your Kuro.
i have mine set at 121 which is the lowest

At the moment the 5% looks pretty good with no red in at all and uniform grey so it might not be worth messing with, I'll see

Isf night is the picture mode I'm going to use from now, it seems to have made a big difference to the results. I can only assume that this is because there is less strain being put on the panel??

I noticed the S1 behavior during my pre-reset voltage tweaking adventures... The way to counteract this is to reduce S3 by the same amount so as to keep the factory separation between S1 and S3 intact. Straying away from the factory separation between S4 and S1/S3 will give you "dirty" looking gradients. It is for these reasons that I always keep the factory separation for those three voltages intact when tweaking and attempting to repair reset.
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post #15 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm posting this on both forums as I'm bouncing between the 2 at the moment. Looks like a sharing of knowledge and finding's would be a good thing. I'm clearly benefiting from the advice and experience given on both threads and hopefully giving a little bit back via my own finding's as well
 
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1532421/pioneer-kuro-post-reset-recovery-guide#post_24748048
 
http://www.avforums.com/threads/pioneer-pdp-lx5090-red-tint-to-blacks-part-2-now-open-to-other-models.1719687/page-23

Every piece of knowledge helps. IMO, there's a missing piece of the puzzle that is causing the IR and dancing pixels. I already tried every voltage combination conceivable with 0 improvement (including voltages on the second page). Perhaps we need to adjust one of the pots on the power supply or start messing with settings in panel function and panel adj-2?
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post #16 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigglebug View Post

I did the flow charts again but instead of raising SUS I decreased Y SUS B. This time on a green screen raising SAD had no effect on the stuck pixel even at 200 so I took a punt on raising SUS instead and it did the trick. Nothing else was different but the results were still pretty awful again![

Were you pressing the ENTER button on the remote after each voltage adjustment? YKNOFSAD at 200 should have cleared that stuck pixel, unless you weren't committing to the adjustments by not pressing the ENTER button on the remote.
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post #17 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 12:22 PM
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Were you pressing the ENTER button on the remote after each voltage adjustment? YKNOFSAD at 200 should have cleared that stuck pixel, unless you weren't committing to the adjustments by not pressing the ENTER button on the remote.

 

Hmmm. Do you know what I'm not 100% sure but think I would have, maybe I'll revisit it tonight just to clarify. I did write this down on my settings spreadsheet though after I did it

 

flow chart 2.2. sad no difference even over 200. Sus raise of 26 to stop pixel now 154
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post #18 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmmm. Do you know what I'm not 100% sure but think I would have, maybe I'll revisit it tonight. I did write this down on my settings spreadsheet though after I did it




flow chart 2.2. sad no difference even over 200. Sus raise of 26 to stop pixel now 154

You most likely weren't hitting the enter button on the remote when you were adjusting SAD, so you did not commit any changes - hence why the stuck pixel wouldn't go away. Try it again and you will see what I mean.

I think we have the voltages squared away by reducing YSUSB and increasing SAD. The solution to IR and dancing pixels has got to be in one of the other menus.
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post #19 of 65 Old 05-22-2014, 12:41 PM
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You most likely weren't hitting the enter button on the remote when you were adjusting SAD, so you did not commit any changes - hence why the stuck pixel wouldn't go away. Try it again and you will see what I mean.

I think we have the voltages squared away by reducing YSUSB and increasing SAD. The solution to IR and dancing pixels has got to be in one of the other menus.

 

You might be right. Think I got quite high (over 170-180 ish) going up in small increments then got impatient so when to 200, probably forgot to confirm if. Now off to work so will be picking this up again in the morning. Will see if lowering YSUSB further means that SUS can be lowered to near original setting with the same results and will double check the SAD. The only thing is that having the SAD low is keeping the tint away and the screen more uniform so I'd rather have a low SAD and use SUS to give the same result if it's possible

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post #20 of 65 Old 05-23-2014, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I did some more testing last night and discovered that if you bypass the vol offset flowchart and don't increase VOL SUS (or decrease Y SUS B), the stuck pixel on the vol yknofsad flowchart would not go away regardless of how high i increased yknofsad. It's as if raising yknofsad had zero effect on the stuck pixel. I went back and set Y SUS B to 126 (the value at which the stuck pixel goes away on the vol offset flowchart) and an increase in yknofsad now had an effect on the stuck pixel, with my final yknofsad value being 158. There is a reason why the service manual instructs to perform the vol offset flowchart first and then the vol yknofsad flowchart.

My panel is still exhibiting IR and weird dancing pixels on an all black screen in a pitch black room. The good news is that I don't see these artifacts on regular content. I believe these two artifacts cannot be removed with voltage adjustments, as I have already tried every voltage combination I could think of (I even included the second page voltages). They must be cause by the mismatch in pulses between the panel and the pulse meter(s). Perhaps some aging will help.
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post #21 of 65 Old 05-23-2014, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated procedure and replaced VOL SUS increase with Y SUS B decrease.
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post #22 of 65 Old 05-23-2014, 01:30 PM
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On flowchart 2 when I bring up RST MASK 21 I don't just have a dead pixel but the whole screen has lots and lots of flashing pixels on it. It that the same on yours? SAD has to go very high to get rid of it

 

The sparkles did show up on part of Fifa so I'm sure it will be visible else where too so probably need to find a solution to it

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On flowchart 2 when I bring up RST MASK 21 I don't just have a dead pixel but the whole screen has lots and lots of flashing pixels on it. It that the same on yours? SAD has to go very high to get rid of it

The sparkles did show up on part of Fifa so I'm sure it will be visible else where too so probably need to find a solution to it

Did you alter the separation between S1, S3 and S4? I know I saw those flashing pixels when I mucked with those 3 voltages.

Remember, you must set your Y SUS B first using flowchart 1 (and your first page voltages must be at default) before you move on to flowchart 2.
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post #24 of 65 Old 05-28-2014, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I have come to the conclusion that the IR and dithering that I see only on an all black screen is a result of the pulse meter not being in line with the actual age of the panel. I have zero artifacts with regards to purple or green sparkles and zero black rain when displaying menus, since my voltages are pretty much where they need to be. While there is a way to get voltages in line with the panel's age (by following the procedure on step 1 i.e. the panel replacement flowcharts in the service menu) there is NO way to manually adjust the pulse meter to be in line with the panel's age.

When a panel is replaced, a reset of the pulse meter is mandatory, as per the service manual. This takes care of one layer, as resetting the pulse meter brings it in line with the brand new replacement panels age - ZERO. The service manual then instructs to go through the voltage checks flowcharts (and recovery flowcharts if corrections are necessary) to ensure that voltages are set correctly, thus eliminating any sparklies.

When a reset of the pulse meter is performed without replacing the panel, then there is no way to match the pulse meter with the panel's age, other than replacing the panel with brand new one, though sparkles and black rain can be removed by adjusting voltages. I have tried increasing VOL SUS and RSTP and the IR and dithering remain, though their effects are not visible on regular content, only on an all black screen. Increasing RSTP to the point where my black level rivals and LCD is simply hiding the dithering and does absolutely nothing to remove the IR.

There is a reason why the service manual and well known Kuro experts agree that that the pulse meter should NOT be reset unless the panel is replaced. Its a lesson I learned the hard way, though am glad that my panel looks as good as stock when displaying content.
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post #25 of 65 Old 05-28-2014, 07:22 PM
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I can't find any where in the service manual I repeat ANY WHERE that calls for a reset UNLESS the panel is replaced (new panel). There is no other instance that the service manual calls for any adjustments post reset.

From swapping out digital boards it makes perfect sense to me.

Good find. Unless you have the proper software to adjust the pulse meter you will always have some type of issues. Now of course the issues that occur some owners are willing to live with. I haven't seen anyone calibrate their panel to ISF standard that either was clipping blacks or have to raise brightness (volts related to) compensating to remove black rain in hand raising blacks.

Correct me if I'm wrong Ed. You have calibrated this panel? Isf standard?
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post #26 of 65 Old 05-29-2014, 12:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Havent calibrated it post reset. I will install a digital board as per your suggestion to see if i see improvement. In theory it should work, since its the closest we can get to actually modifying the pulse meter.
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post #27 of 65 Old 06-04-2014, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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As only my luck would dictate, the replacement board has less hours and pulses (only 1 hour of use and all pulse meters are at 0) than my original board. I am keeping the replacement board installed, since the total hour meter is now at 120 (the point where it was reset at the factory). I applied the procedure described in the first post and ended up with the same voltages. Regular content looks spot on - 0 IR, 0 black rain, 0 artifacts. All internal patterns are clean as well. Only issue is all black screen (not a blank input, but an actual feed of a black field) looks uneven.
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post #28 of 65 Old 06-06-2014, 11:26 PM
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anyone have the service manual for a 6020. New computer and i lost my copy.
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post #29 of 65 Old 06-07-2014, 05:20 AM - Thread Starter
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anyone have the service manual for a 6020. New computer and i lost my copy.

http://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_pdp-6020fd_sm.pdf/download.html
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post #30 of 65 Old 06-07-2014, 02:43 PM
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man im having a hard time with this. I think i found the pixel. I have one dead pixel at the top center of my 6020. Is that what im looking for? I followed the flow charts but nothing seams to affect the pixel.
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