Why I Bought a Plasma HDTV in 2014 - Page 26 - AVS Forum
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post #751 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post
Once you own a top of the line plasma you even start to lose interest in what other manufacturers are doing with their LED TV's. You almost don't even care because the thought of replacing that plasma with an LED never crosses your mind.
This. Ever since I purchased my first plasma(not top of the line) about six years ago, I have had this attitude. When I went to purchase a new TV a couple of weeks ago, I gave all the LCDs a good look and was dazzled by them briefly.

I then took the plasma leap of faith and purchased the dingy looking set. I have no regrets buying the PN605300.
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post #752 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by SoonerTheBetter View Post
This. Ever since I purchased my first plasma about six years ago I have had this attitude. When I went to purchase a new TV a couple of weeks ago, I gave all the LCDs a good look and was dazzled by them briefly.

I then took the plasma leap of faith and purchased the dingy looking set. I have no regrets buying the PN605300.
Yeah in a brighter showroom the Plasma's don't look as nice, but when you get it home it's a whole new set
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post #753 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
Yeah in a brighter showroom the Plasma's don't look as nice, but when you get it home it's a whole new set
In a 'theater' or semi theater setup its going to be really dark anyway which is why I went with a plasma after my last LCD. Love it. The contrast is night and day different. It looks okay with some ambient light then wakes up when its pitch black in the room.

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post #754 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by StinDaWg View Post
Such as?

I guess the 5300 is the "perfect" tv for me, because none of the features on the 8500 literally have any value to me, certainly not $1500 worth. YMMV.
One thing worth noting, I could not get the F5300 to come this close to "perfect" calibration. Not that the gap is huge—perceptually, it's quite slight. However, the F8500 is capable of coming closer to the reference ideal—worth it for me in the context of my job, but probably not worth it for many people.


f8500 SI Advanced Report-6_30_2014 by ImagicDigital, on Flickr
Calibration performed with Spectracal CalMAN 5 Pro - http://www.spectracal.com/

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post #755 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 11:54 AM
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Sorry if i missed this earlier in the thread. Are all PN60F5300s Pentile, or is it a panel lottery?

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post #756 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by machavez00 View Post
Sorry if i missed this earlier in the thread. Are all PN60F5300s Pentile, or is it a panel lottery?
Yes they are all Pentile. The PN51F5300 and PN64F5300 are not Pentile.

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post #757 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 12:11 PM
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Yes they are all Pentile. The PN51F5300 and PN64F5300 are not Pentile.
Is that bad, good, or six of one, half a dozen of the other? My 60" was part of a "The Room Store" package.

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post #758 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 12:12 PM
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Is that bad, good, or six of one, half a dozen of the other?
Some people here think it's an issue, I can't tell a difference between a pentile and non-pentile screen unless I am standing 3-4 feet away.
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post #759 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by imagic View Post
One thing worth noting, I could not get the F5300 to come this close to "perfect" calibration. Not that the gap is huge—perceptually, it's quite slight. However, the F8500 is capable of coming closer to the reference ideal—worth it for me in the context of my job, but probably not worth it for many people.


f8500 SI Advanced Report-6_30_2014 by ImagicDigital, on Flickr
Calibration performed with Spectracal CalMAN 5 Pro - http://www.spectracal.com/
What kind of brightness difference are you seeing between the 5300 and 8500 per square cm?
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post #760 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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What kind of brightness difference are you seeing between the 5300 and 8500 per square cm?
I see that both get brighter than I need them to for a proper calibration. I did not check what the peak attainable brightness is on each TV.
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post #761 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by imagic View Post
One thing worth noting, I could not get the F5300 to come this close to "perfect" calibration. Not that the gap is huge—perceptually, it's quite slight. However, the F8500 is capable of coming closer to the reference ideal—worth it for me in the context of my job, but probably not worth it for many people.


f8500 SI Advanced Report-6_30_2014 by ImagicDigital, on Flickr
Calibration performed with Spectracal CalMAN 5 Pro - http://www.spectracal.com/
Grayscale on every 5 series panel I've seen has been managed to be calibrated extremely well , it's colour accuracy where the 8500 really outshines the 5 series.
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post #762 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Grayscale on every 5 series panel I've seen has been managed to be calibrated extremely well , it's colour accuracy where the 8500 really outshines the 5 series.
Ah yes...


f8500 color by ImagicDigital, on Flickr
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post #763 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 04:58 PM
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The Panasonic's edgelit local dimming works better than Vizio's backlit dimming, except when it comes to darkening the letterbox
Can you please start a thread in the LCD section titled, "Edge-lit Local Dimming Works Better than Back-lit." It would be hilarious.
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post #764 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 07:26 PM
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smarcus3 wrote,

Thanks for the response. The PC is running at 1920x1080 HDMI through receiver to the TV via HDMI. It just looks crummy on the desktop / web browsing. I think its because with a browser basically your entire screen is white. However, when I played a movie through the PC it looks great. The same for games.[/QUOTE]


re tubetwister
Facepalm here you prbably nailed it mine doesen't look that great on an all white screen either Plasmas usually don't do all white as well as LCD
the ABL (automatic brightness limiter ) usually kicks in on all white if your brightness
or cell is above a certain point have you set your cell light at maximum? a lot of posters here seem to like it there PDP's do movies well PS3games also

You can only get 1080p Netflix and Amazon prime on a PS3 Roku ,ATV ,BD player etc .
unkless you have a win 8.1 PC running IE 11 then you can get 1080p Netflix not sure bout Amazon Prime 1080p on a PC I use a PS3 to stream on my Sammie 60 F5300 and Roku on the other sets . although PDPs don't seem to mind 720p as much as some LCD's on movies and TV's
OFC if you have a PS3 you are set .

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post #765 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 07:48 PM
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^^^ not sure if applicable. but my HTPC has different settings for 'desktop' and 'video player'. I've been able to get what I consider good results for web browsing, while still maintaining great results for media playback.


as far as abl behaviour(I'm still not sure I even see this?), I have my f8500 set with the eco mode to low because it's too bright on the normal settings. I had the cell light turned down to 10, but read that was not a good method of dimming the screen. apparently I'm supposed to use contrast, but in order to get the image comfortably bright I have to turn it down well below 60, at which point it really ruins the image. anyway, the eco setting seems to do the trick for me. but what I've noticed is that there is NO dimming between eco off and the low setting, with a full white image. there is noticeable dimming with darker content however. I'm wondering if the eco setting of low actually reduces the amount of abl. it's like it permanently puts the tv into the 'abl mode'(I don't know how to describe it) and instead of getting brighter when the scenes get dark, it just maintains that dimmer white level the whole time.


again though, I've never really seen abl 'kick in' in my life. and only noticed this because one time I was trying to determine whether I wanted eco on or off, and had a webpage displayed and it made no difference. I thought there was an issue, but when I checked again(and had a darker image on screen) it worked like normal again. I think it would be interesting to see what somebody who is sensitive to ABL behaviour thinks about using the eco mode(low setting only though) and if it actually reduces the affect of abl, or just dims the screen differently
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post #766 of 959 Old 06-30-2014, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tubetwister View Post
smarcus3 wrote,

Thanks for the response. The PC is running at 1920x1080 HDMI through receiver to the TV via HDMI. It just looks crummy on the desktop / web browsing. I think its because with a browser basically your entire screen is white. However, when I played a movie through the PC it looks great. The same for games.

re tubetwister
Facepalm here you prbably nailed it mine doesen't look that great on an all white screen either Plasmas usually don't do all white as well as LCD
the ABL (automatic brightness limiter ) usually kicks in on all white if your brightness
or cell is above a certain point have you set your cell light at maximum? a lot of posters here seem to like it there PDP's do movies well PS3games also

You can only get 1080p Netflix and Amazon prime on a PS3 Roku ,ATV ,BD player etc .
unkless you have a win 8.1 PC running IE 11 then you can get 1080p Netflix not sure bout Amazon Prime 1080p on a PC I use a PS3 to stream on my Sammie 60 F5300 and Roku on the other sets . although PDPs don't seem to mind 720p as much as some LCD's on movies and TV's
OFC if you have a PS3 you are set .[/QUOTE]

I do have 8.1 and can get Netflix 1080P rarely depending on connection speed. Cell brightness is already at the max. If thats the biggest issue I have with the TV its fine with me.

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post #767 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 05:06 AM
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fierce_gt^^^ not sure if applicable. but my HTPC has different settings for 'desktop' and 'video player'. I've been able to get what I consider good results for web browsing, while still maintaining great results for media playback.


re/tubtwister

Don't know why they need a switch for TV /PC use on the same screen.OTOH maybe for different setting of the TV mode it may be sending different image calibrations or user adjustments or even resolutions in TV mode and something else for PC desktop scaling and image optimisation for PC use that sounds cool though I could see it no prob. probably a good idea .

That Sammie f8500 is whole different enchilada from my 60 F5300 nice set ! that's about all I can say there!

I have my two screens set up in AMD Catalyst 14XX somewhat different with each being optimized for the TV or PC monitor you can run one or the other or both at the same time and in the Studio I have 2 PC monitors + a TV running off the PC in there each with its own settings from the vid card . Both PC connected TV's are 40" LED's here .


The PS3 takes care of HT duty ,wifi video streaming Netflix ,Amazon Prime ,PSN and wifi LAN DLNA streaming here .
on the Sammie PDP real good video processor wifi DLNA streamer and BD player with the PS3 .

I never use the Plasma screen as a computer it seems counter intuitive to me as do HTPC computers in general although a lot of folks like them, when you can have DNLA ,a LAN ,PS3 and 3 other PC's with one being a media server in another room all on the LAN .

PS 3 is basically an XMBC browser on steroids you can call up or stream anything you need
or play a videogame or DVD/BD greatest thing since sliced bread if you set it up right .

IF I want to encode /transcode rip or burn something something I can bring to the hot rodded overclocked daily driver in here or put several things in a cue and let it do it's thing and at the same time be using this for something or a few other things at the same time without it breaking a sweat but it's all good whatever works 4 each of us .

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post #768 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
^^^ not sure if applicable. but my HTPC has different settings for 'desktop' and 'video player'. I've been able to get what I consider good results for web browsing, while still maintaining great results for media playback.


as far as abl behaviour(I'm still not sure I even see this?), I have my f8500 set with the eco mode to low because it's too bright on the normal settings. I had the cell light turned down to 10, but read that was not a good method of dimming the screen. apparently I'm supposed to use contrast, but in order to get the image comfortably bright I have to turn it down well below 60, at which point it really ruins the image. anyway, the eco setting seems to do the trick for me. but what I've noticed is that there is NO dimming between eco off and the low setting, with a full white image. there is noticeable dimming with darker content however. I'm wondering if the eco setting of low actually reduces the amount of abl. it's like it permanently puts the tv into the 'abl mode'(I don't know how to describe it) and instead of getting brighter when the scenes get dark, it just maintains that dimmer white level the whole time.


again though, I've never really seen abl 'kick in' in my life. and only noticed this because one time I was trying to determine whether I wanted eco on or off, and had a webpage displayed and it made no difference. I thought there was an issue, but when I checked again(and had a darker image on screen) it worked like normal again. I think it would be interesting to see what somebody who is sensitive to ABL behaviour thinks about using the eco mode(low setting only though) and if it actually reduces the affect of abl, or just dims the screen differently
Here is an extremely easy way to view ABL-- fire up a Windows PC with a pretty desktop back ground. Open a large white background window with small number of icons on it (less=better). Open the window large, but dont maximize it (so you can drag it around or resize it). Grab the top of the window and drag it down to the bottom of the screen, then drag it back up. Watch the background image-- it will dim like a light on a dimmer switch when the window becomes large and get bright as you drag it off the screen.

Its not a matter of being "sensitive" to ABL. Its a matter of watching content that makes it kick in. The only way you wont see the dimming using the method I just described is if you have an LCD TV, or you are completely blind. All plasmas have it. Turning cell light up to the max helps to minimize its aggressiveness.
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post #769 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 05:27 AM
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Extremely easy way to view ABL. Fire up a Windows PC with a pretty desktop back ground. Open a large white background window with small number of icons on it (less=better). Open the window large, but dont maximize it (so you can drag it around). Grab the top of the window and drag it down to the bottom of the screen, then drag it back up. Watch the background image-- it will dim like a light on a dimmer switch when the window becomes large and get bright as you drag it off the screen.

Its not a matter of being "sensitive" to ABL. Its a matter of watching content that makes it kick in. The only way you wont see the dimming using the method I just described is if you have an LCD TV, or you are completely blind. All plasmas have it. Turning cell light up to the max helps to minimize its aggressiveness.
Completely agree with both of your comments. I think its that plus text sometimes doesn't show up crystal clear. As long as movies / games / netflix looks good thats all I care about.

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post #770 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, I kind of expected this, but not so soon...

Samsung Pulls Plug on Plasma Production

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post #771 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 07:50 AM
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Wow, I kind of expected this, but not so soon...

Samsung Pulls Plug on Plasma Production
I guess people thought the contrast ratio was tooooooo good.

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post #772 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I guess people thought the contrast ratio was tooooooo good.
My Sammy F8500 is "putting the hurt" on the Panny AX800U sitting right next to it, at least when I watch a Blu-ray or a Vudu HDX stream in a darkened room. It's a great loss for fans of (relatively) affordable home theater-worthy TVs.

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post #773 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 07:58 AM
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My Sammy F8500 is "putting the hurt" on the Panny AX800U sitting right next to it, at least when I watch a Blu-ray or a Vudu HDX stream in a darkened room. It's a great loss for fans of (relatively) affordable home theater-worthy TVs.
Dark room is key. Its actually critical for its success. perhaps that's why its not as appealing to the broad market.

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post #774 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by imagic View Post
Wow, I kind of expected this, but not so soon...

Samsung Pulls Plug on Plasma Production
Looks like we bought them just in time! Should there ever be an issue in the future, and the TV needs to be replaced, are we SOL?

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post #775 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like we bought them just in time! Should there ever be an issue in the future, and the TV needs to be replaced, are we SOL?
Probably Looks like I'm heading back to Best Buy to get a Geek Squad warranty on the one I just bought, knowing that I'll probably have to settle for some sort of "replacement." I sure do hope OLED prices continue to drop rapidly.

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post #776 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:13 AM
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How does the f5300 handle motion vs the f8500?

I'm building a budget bedroom theater (watching from bed) sitting 11ft away. Light will be well under control with most viewing done at night time anyway. Dont care about 3d or smart features. I'm used to watching a 42" LG LCD with atrocious black levels in this setup. I will be calibrating and I am picky about picture quality (motion judder, light/color uniformity, blacks, and color accuracy come to mind).

Is going for a 64" F5300 ($1400) vs a 51" F8500 ($1600) a no brainer in this scenario?

My other option is to go very budget and get the 51" F5300 ($550). I've sort of ruled out the 60" version of both series due to the pentile display - should I even be concerned about whether or not it is pentile? That size seems like a very good value, especially for the F5300. Pentile and imagic's experience with magenta push concerns me though.

I go back and forth on this. I am picky about imagine quality and will be calibrating. I obviously need to make a decision soon and funds are limited (I've been looking at retailers with layaway options for the higher priced options).

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post #777 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
Looks like we bought them just in time! Should there ever be an issue in the future, and the TV needs to be replaced, are we SOL?
I believe companies are required to have parts for repair for up to 7 years. As far as replacement goes well that will last as long as their supply lasts and that could be anyone's guess. If you do need a replacement in a few years, you may just get offered an LCD (unless OLED is available in supply then).
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post #778 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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How does the f5300 handle motion vs the f8500?

I'm building a budget bedroom theater (watching from bed) sitting 11ft away. Light will be well under control with most viewing done at night time anyway. Dont care about 3d or smart features.

Is going for a 64" F5300 ($1400) vs a 51" F8500 ($1600) a no brainer in this scenario?

My other option is to go very budget and get the 51" F5300 ($550). I've sort of ruled out the 60" version of both series due to the pentile display - should I even be concerned about whether or not it is pentile? That size seems like a very good value, especially for the F5300. Pentile and imagic's experience with magenta push concerns me though.

I go back and forth on this. I am picky about imagine quality and will be calibrating. I obviously need to make a decision soon and funds are limited (I've been looking at retailers with layaway options).
The magenta push was hard for me to take, although a non-issue for letterbox content. I would strongly prefer a TV that displays whites/grays without discoloration. The pentile display made zero difference when watching movies from seven or eight feet away. At 11 feet it would be a total non-issue, since the resolution loss is only in the chroma channel. Based on what I saw, the 64-inch F5300 could be considered a no-brainer for your intended use as long —as it does not have the same issue I found in those two 60-inchers.
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Last edited by imagic; 07-01-2014 at 08:36 AM.
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post #779 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:22 AM
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Probably Looks like I'm heading back to Best Buy to get a Geek Squad warranty on the one I just bought, knowing that I'll probably have to settle for some sort of "replacement." I sure do hope OLED prices continue to drop rapidly.
Yeah I would, I purchased a 4 year warranty from Square Trade, might want to look into that instead. No deductible, no need to mail the TV anywhere, and it's a lot cheaper than BB. I paid $106 with a coupon for mine.

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post #780 of 959 Old 07-01-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
I believe companies are required to have parts for repair for up to 7 years. As far as replacement goes well that will last as long as their supply lasts and that could be anyone's guess. If you do need a replacement in a few years, you may just get offered an LCD (unless OLED is available in supply then).
Okay that is good to know, as long as it could be repaired I am fine, I have 4 years of warranty coverage. And hopefully if it does break on me beyond repair, they can come deliver me a nice new OLED at that point

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