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post #1 of 21 Old 09-30-2014, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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New to plasma, need help choosing the right one

I'm updating the man cave. I've had a 52" Samsung LCD for a few years, and am making the switch to plasma based on a ton of research (better blacks, no motion blur, high refresh rate, viewing angles, etc). I'll be using this primarily for video games (PS4) and sports viewing.

I'm having a really hard time picking the best model for me, though... I'd like to find one that has at least 3 HDMI ports, and (importantly) low input lag (under 50ms).

My price range is around $1k, but I'd like to be under that (I'm not opposed to buying used/refurbished).

I've heard great things about the discontinued Panasonic's, but even the used ones I can find are a little more than I'm ready to spend on a "spare" TV.

The newer LGs have good reviews, but I understand they struggle with input lag (not good for gaming).

Does anyone have experience with a model that hits the criteria above?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 21 Old 09-30-2014, 10:29 AM
 
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Thats gonna be hard to find anymore.. the lowest input lags are Panny professional models and they have one HDMI, one DVI and one VGA inputs and are usually in the $1000-2000 range

What country are you buying from?
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post #3 of 21 Old 09-30-2014, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChadThunder View Post
Thats gonna be hard to find anymore.. the lowest input lags are Panny professional models and they have one HDMI, one DVI and one VGA inputs and are usually in the $1000-2000 range

What country are you buying from?
Buying in the US.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-30-2014, 05:59 PM
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Right now the best remaining choices are the F4500 and F5300 models from Samsung. Great values and excellent performers. Just decide between 720p and 1080p, and consider the Pentile issue in the 60 inch size of the 5300. There are also some LG models at good prices, but most would say the Samsungs have the best picture quality. The top Samsung is the F8500 if you have a much bigger price margin.
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 06:30 AM
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The local Costco store had their version of the F5300 (they call it F5350) on sale for $649, but wehen I went to pick one up, they were sold out. I bought one from their web site for $699, plus $30 shipping. It came to just under $800 with sales tax added.

Still a good deal, but I would like to have paid $80 less.
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post #6 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dave in Houston View Post
The local Costco store had their version of the F5300 (they call it F5350) on sale for $649, but wehen I went to pick one up, they were sold out. I bought one from their web site for $699, plus $30 shipping. It came to just under $800 with sales tax added.

Still a good deal, but I would like to have paid $80 less.
Thanks! I read that the input lag high on this model. True?
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 01:20 PM
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60" 5300 is going to be your best bet hands down. Spend about double the price and you will have a really nice 60"8500. those will be the easiest to get your hands on. unless you want spend even more and buy a panasonic
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post #8 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by zcherub View Post
Thanks! I read that the input lag high on this model. True?
You can check input lag for most flat screens in this database. For example the Samsung 2013 PN60F5300 (A model) is listed at 47ms for an Okay rating (Excellent = 0-20ms, Great = 21-41ms, Okay = 42-62ms and Bad = 63ms+). They do not list a 2014 PN60F5300 (B model) which may or may not be exactly the same.

They describe the Okay rating as follows:

Most higher-end HDTVs will fall under this category. These displays are designed for casual gaming, and do not have strict response requirements. These displays usually put more emphasis on great picture quality that requires more advanced image processing to deliver. If you’re not too picky about input performance and just want to enjoy your games on a pretty screen, this category is for you.

Note that no plasma in the database earns an Excellent rating. The best plasmas for gaming have Great ratings.

Last edited by Dave in Green; 10-01-2014 at 02:04 PM.
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post #9 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 02:15 PM
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Sports and video games? Just buy an LED. Black levels don't mean a thing for what you want to use it for and you won't have to worry about IR if you game a lot.
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Sports and video games? Just buy an LED. Black levels don't mean a thing for what you want to use it for and you won't have to worry about IR if you game a lot.
I prefer to avoid the motion blur that I've experienced with the LCSs/LEDs I've had...
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post #11 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 06:28 PM
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I prefer to avoid the motion blur that I've experienced with the LCSs/LEDs I've had...
Were you using ones with at least 120hz native refresh rates or 60hz panels with software enhancements if even that much?
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-01-2014, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post
Were you using ones with at least 120hz native refresh rates or 60hz panels with software enhancements if even that much?
Are you talking about frame interpolation? That feature is not without faults in that...

1) It may make things smoother by creating a midframe between two original frames, but it still will not aid in detail retrieval in motion, meaning it will still be blurry.

2) Not every interpolations will be done without some hiccups. There are some variances in speed in interpolated frames, it's not really 100% consistant. Although I do admit Sonys are pretty resilient in this regard with the right setting.

3) Hello, input lag, welcome back! It would be comical buying an LCD with very low input lag only to increase it again by using frame interpolation.

...And this is just my preference but, I'd like to at least play 60 fps games as true 60 fps games, thank you very much. Movie aficionados aren't the only ones abhoring the soap opera crap.

BFI/backlight scanning are much more effective means to improve motion performance. Thank goodness Samsung has at least a usable BFI. Sony's Motionflow Impulse, while superior to Samsung's solution, is nigh useless with brightness loss.

...and you will have to pry my Panasonic S60 from my fingers before I even think about using LCDs for gaming purpose. I've had both LG and Panasonic plasmas for gaming exclusively. No break-in slides for both, no BS fake 16:9 for my 4:3 games (I even played 4:3 games exclusively on my Panny for more than a month) and still I got ZERO IR for my LG, and insignificant amount of IR for my Panny that always ended up getting wiped out quickly, IR wouldn't even be on my radar if I was to voice my complaints about my plasma.
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-02-2014, 04:15 AM
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Are you talking about frame interpolation? That feature is not without faults in that...

1) It may make things smoother by creating a midframe between two original frames, but it still will not aid in detail retrieval in motion, meaning it will still be blurry.

2) Not every interpolations will be done without some hiccups. There are some variances in speed in interpolated frames, it's not really 100% consistant. Although I do admit Sonys are pretty resilient in this regard with the right setting.

3) Hello, input lag, welcome back! It would be comical buying an LCD with very low input lag only to increase it again by using frame interpolation.

...And this is just my preference but, I'd like to at least play 60 fps games as true 60 fps games, thank you very much. Movie aficionados aren't the only ones abhoring the soap opera crap.

BFI/backlight scanning are much more effective means to improve motion performance. Thank goodness Samsung has at least a usable BFI. Sony's Motionflow Impulse, while superior to Samsung's solution, is nigh useless with brightness loss.

...and you will have to pry my Panasonic S60 from my fingers before I even think about using LCDs for gaming purpose. I've had both LG and Panasonic plasmas for gaming exclusively. No break-in slides for both, no BS fake 16:9 for my 4:3 games (I even played 4:3 games exclusively on my Panny for more than a month) and still I got ZERO IR for my LG, and insignificant amount of IR for my Panny that always ended up getting wiped out quickly, IR wouldn't even be on my radar if I was to voice my complaints about my plasma.
You do realize just because you don't get IR doesn't mean plasma's are resistant to IR and no one get its, right?
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-02-2014, 08:30 AM
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You do realize just because you don't get IR doesn't mean plasma's are resistant to IR and no one get its, right?
As I said, my Panny does get its own share of IRs which I consider pretty tame.

Ok, I'll be be slightly a bit more detailed. Just right after I got my Panny, I started playing Phantasy Star Online for 8 hours. Then I discovered stuck HUD (levels and HP) 2 hours away playing other games it's gone. Then I played with orbitor, and I discovered it takes much longer (from 6 to 8 hours) to wipe out after images, so I just left it on. BTW, I have abused my Panny S60 in worst possible fashion possible. No break-in, using it as a PC monitor, heavy dose of 4:3 games, and no movies. I was a bit concerned with IR for the first 100 hours, but after 1000 hours, it's become much more resistant to IRs, nowadays I can only see it if I try very hard and even if I do see it, it goes away in less than 30 minutes.

That's for logo IR (after images stuck temporarily), clouding IR is something else and doesn't really clean up on its own so that's the time I use slides to wipe out. (This type of IR is accumulation of all IRs, so it's really only visible in full black screen)

Maybe other people will be concerned if they see IRs like mine, who knows. I don't care either way because I rarely see it, it goes away quickly, and only require a minor maintanance (running slides) to keep it in a top form. Now, mine has gathered over 3800 hours and still running like a champ.
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post #15 of 21 Old 10-02-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post
You do realize just because you don't get IR doesn't mean plasma's are resistant to IR and no one get its, right?

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Originally Posted by KOF View Post
As I said, my Panny does get its own share of IRs which I consider pretty tame.

Ok, I'll be be slightly a bit more detailed. Just right after I got my Panny, I started playing Phantasy Star Online for 8 hours. Then I discovered stuck HUD (levels and HP) 2 hours away playing other games it's gone. Then I played with orbitor, and I discovered it takes much longer (from 6 to 8 hours) to wipe out after images, so I just left it on. BTW, I have abused my Panny S60 in worst possible fashion possible. No break-in, using it as a PC monitor, heavy dose of 4:3 games, and no movies. I was a bit concerned with IR for the first 100 hours, but after 1000 hours, it's become much more resistant to IRs, nowadays I can only see it if I try very hard and even if I do see it, it goes away in less than 30 minutes.

That's for logo IR (after images stuck temporarily), clouding IR is something else and doesn't really clean up on its own so that's the time I use slides to wipe out. (This type of IR is accumulation of all IRs, so it's really only visible in full black screen)

Maybe other people will be concerned if they see IRs like mine, who knows. I don't care either way because I rarely see it, it goes away quickly, and only require a minor maintanance (running slides) to keep it in a top form. Now, mine has gathered over 3800 hours and still running like a champ.

The S60 isn't as prone to IR as some other PDP's, such as sets that incorporate panels that display 3D like the ST60.

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post #16 of 21 Old 10-03-2014, 10:36 AM
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Sports and video games? Just buy an LED. Black levels don't mean a thing for what you want to use it for and you won't have to worry about IR if you game a lot.
I would agree if you could find a CCFL backlight lcd. the 'processing' these days seems to bandaid the motion good enough for most, but i'd still caution against LED if you haven't experienced one before. the clouding/flashlighting could be a deal breaker. it should at least be looked into.

but if uniformity, motion, and viewing angles don't concern you, there's a LOT more choices in the lcd market, and more choices almost always leads to a better fit.

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post #17 of 21 Old 10-10-2014, 06:07 AM
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If you can, look at both the Samsung and LG plasma offerings side-by-side. I did, and found the LG and Samsung so similar that PQ difference was a non-issue. I ended up going with a LG due to myself and friends not be satisfied with the build quality of our old Samsung and Samsung exiting the Plasma market.
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post #18 of 21 Old 10-10-2014, 12:02 PM
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Need some advice: comparing 2 models - the Samsung F5300 and the Panasonic TC-P50GT25 (which I currently own). Thinking of selling the Panny bc of a cross country move and buying the newer Samsung. Thoughts??? Should I just hold on to the Panny?
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post #19 of 21 Old 10-11-2014, 02:25 PM
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Hey everyone been out of the loop for a few years now on tvs but ever since my 2 year old took a toy to my 64" 8000 series samsung I am in need of a new one. What is the best tv hands down at this time? My budget is 3k.
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post #20 of 21 Old 10-12-2014, 01:15 AM
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^^^^ That would be the Samsung PN64F8500 which is on sale currently for $2500

Samsung f8500 pricing reduction?
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post #21 of 21 Old 10-12-2014, 04:15 PM
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Thanks Chere, After spending some time on here I think you are correct.
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