Samsung PN64F8500AFXZA Issues with turning on - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 346 Old 05-04-2017, 08:19 PM
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OK, Samsung PN64F8500 mavens--here's my tale of woe. Please tell me if you can make sense of it.

We were watching the TV last week, and I reached for the TV remote to adjust the volume. As soon as I touched the remote, the screen went black--no picture, no sound--and the red LED monitoring light started to flash on and off every five seconds or so. We tried unplugging and re-plugging several times, but we just kept getting that slowly flashing LED, and attempting to turn on the TV did nothing to change that response.

I had a tech look at the TV. In phone consultation with Samsung, he tested out the X-main board and power module, and they both tested out OK, so the Samsung guy said that it must be the Y-main. I managed to find a new one on eBay a couple of days ago; earlier today, I installed it. I made some progress--with the new Y-main in place, plugging in the set produced the expected steady-state red LED; but when I powered the set on, I got the flashing that you expect during turn-on, but no picture--just endless turn-on flashing.

My assumption is that maybe when the Y-board went, it somehow took the X board with it--does this sound possible? I'm also assuming that the power module is OK, or I wouldn't be getting the steady power-off LED when the set is plugged in. I have an X board arriving tomorrow, but it's a salvaged, used one--so I have my fingers crossed.

Do you think that panel could have suddenly died all at once? This doesn't seem to make sense--doesn't panel degradation or failure usually come with some big hideous stripe on the screen, not just a black screen? Plus I was getting that weird slowlyl flashing LED before I changed the Y board--that is now resolved, but still no picture.

Any thoughts about what might be the problem here, and which board might be the culprit? Or could it be the panel?

I'd be grateful for any informed conjecture on this.
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post #302 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
OK, Samsung PN64F8500 mavens--here's my tale of woe. Please tell me if you can make sense of it.

We were watching the TV last week, and I reached for the TV remote to adjust the volume. As soon as I touched the remote, the screen went black--no picture, no sound--and the red LED monitoring light started to flash on and off every five seconds or so. We tried unplugging and re-plugging several times, but we just kept getting that slowly flashing LED, and attempting to turn on the TV did nothing to change that response.

I had a tech look at the TV. In phone consultation with Samsung, he tested out the X-main board and power module, and they both tested out OK, so the Samsung guy said that it must be the Y-main. I managed to find a new one on eBay a couple of days ago; earlier today, I installed it. I made some progress--with the new Y-main in place, plugging in the set produced the expected steady-state red LED; but when I powered the set on, I got the flashing that you expect during turn-on, but no picture--just endless turn-on flashing.



I'd be grateful for any informed conjecture on this.
It seems that you've "divorced" the tech who you chose originally and I don't actually understand the reasoning. Did you choose the tech or a Samsung choice?

Did the PBA # on the purchase match exactly what you removed?
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post #303 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
...the red LED monitoring light started to flash on and off every five seconds or so...

...when I powered the set on, I got the flashing that you expect during turn-on, but no picture--just endless turn-on flashing.
Did you try to count and measure the red flashing?
Mine had this constant series:
Power On
(black screen)
2 sec pause
1,3 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink -> total nine 0,5 secs blinks
4,7 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink -> total four 1 sec blinks
sound comes on but still black screen.
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post #304 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVZR1 View Post
It seems that you've "divorced" the tech who you chose originally and I don't actually understand the reasoning. Did you choose the tech or a Samsung choice?

Did the PBA # on the purchase match exactly what you removed?
The original tech represented an extended warranty firm. When it became apparent that they might not be able to repair the set and would have to replace it, they denied the warranty claim on a technicality, and that was the end of that relationship.

I'm not sure about the PBA#--will have to check that. I'm certain that it corresponds to the version number of my TV.

I will install the x-board today and see if that revives the set. If not, I may have to give up on it. This 64-incher seems to be a badly designed set with dubious longevity. I'm in a quandary now--I don't want to invest $3,500 plus tax in an OLED, nor am I inclined to get another PN64F8500 on the used market because of its high early-mortality rate.

If the new x-board does not revive the set, here are my options:

1. Recheck PBA numbers to make sure boards match in every respect--if not, order new boards.
2. If they boards seem to check out, order a power module to see if that does the trick.
3. Give up on putting any more money into this temperamental beast and buy a new TV. Given that OLEDs are too pricey for my blood right now, I'm considering a Vizio P65-C1. Will that drive me mad after living with the F8500, or is it pretty decent?
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post #305 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
The original tech represented an extended warranty firm. When it became apparent that they might not be able to repair the set and would have to replace it, they denied the warranty claim on a technicality, and that was the end of that relationship.

I'm not sure about the PBA#--will have to check that. I'm certain that it corresponds to the version number of my TV.

I will install the x-board today and see if that revives the set. If not, I may have to give up on it. This 64-incher seems to be a badly designed set with dubious longevity. I'm in a quandary now--I don't want to invest $3,500 plus tax in an OLED, nor am I inclined to get another PN64F8500 on the used market because of its high early-mortality rate.

If the new x-board does not revive the set, here are my options:

1. Recheck PBA numbers to make sure boards match in every respect--if not, order new boards.
2. If they boards seem to check out, order a power module to see if that does the trick.
3. Give up on putting any more money into this temperamental beast and buy a new TV. Given that OLEDs are too pricey for my blood right now, I'm considering a Vizio P65-C1. Will that drive me mad after living with the F8500, or is it pretty decent?
Interesting - which warranty group and what "technicality" did they find to deny the service?
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post #306 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR1 View Post
Interesting - which warranty group and what "technicality" did they find to deny the service?
I'd rather not discuss that publicly. Anyway--have you had any experience with the Vizio I mentioned? Ever see it under controlled conditions? If so, any opinion on it? There has to be some way out for people with these Samsung plasma boat anchors who don't want to sink four grand into a television.
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post #307 of 346 Old 05-05-2017, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
I'd rather not discuss that publicly. Anyway--have you had any experience with the Vizio I mentioned? Ever see it under controlled conditions? If so, any opinion on it? There has to be some way out for people with these Samsung plasma boat anchors who don't want to sink four grand into a television.
I've no experience with the Vizio - none!! There's no showroom near me that likely has one either. I'm certainly not "rural" but you'd certainly think so when looking for a quality display. When I was shopping the PN64F8500 a local Best Buy wouldn't even take an order for it. I was told I needed to visit a store with a Magnolia video/audio section.
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post #308 of 346 Old 05-07-2017, 07:03 AM
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PN64F8500 not turning on fixed!

I am pleased to confirm that the solution advanced in this (long) thread has indeed solved the issue for me as it has for many others. I strongly recommend that anyone experiencing the same symptoms goes for the same fix (read on).

First, the situation: I had a Samsung 64" plasma TV bought for $3,000 in April 2014 (at Best Buy) that started to falter at the end of 2016 and eventually died in February 2017. The symptoms were as follows: black screen, red LED blinking, initially sound would come on without video, initially also the TV would eventually turn on through some random repetition of trials. Eventually it would not turn on.

Then my frustration: I got no help from Samsung's horrible customer support. I was out of warranty and had no extended warranty, plus they no longer make Plasma TVs (correction nobody does anymore) and no longer have parts. I also got no help from either of Geek Squad (largely incompetent) and Sears who could not properly diagnosed the cause of the failure. Sears suggested replacing the panel for another $2,000+! As is now typical, I felt I was the customer left holding the bag at the end of the line. Because of that and the $3k, I was not inclined to give up and splurge on a new set.

Until I came to this forum that is. As explained in previous posts, the culprit for the symptoms listed are those three 10 mF caps. I bought the caps from Mouser (got 10 at $1+ a piece) and paid $50 to a TV/Audio shop yesterday to solder the caps on. Came back home, put the board back on, and turned the TV on...et voila. Currently watching a soccer game as I type this.

I am very grateful to the people who have taken the time to post their findings here and help the rest of the us solve this problem as well.
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post #309 of 346 Old 05-08-2017, 06:38 AM
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I received personal emails requesting more details on how to remove board (main Y BN96-25216A I believe) safely so I am posting a pic with a few notes here to help out even though several were posted early on.
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post #310 of 346 Old 05-09-2017, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Derekch84 View Post
I received personal emails requesting more details on how to remove board (main Y BN96-25216A I believe) safely so I am posting a pic with a few notes here to help out even though several were posted early on.
Thank you very much !
I am sure it will be very helpful, I just got my hands on a PN64F8500 that wont turn on for 300$ CAN. I hope this will make it come back to life.

I am supposed to go get it this afternoon, do you think its worth it ?
Got the Oled in my main room and this would be for my gaming man cave.

Living room: LG 65E6, PN64F8500, Sonos 5.1, OPPO UDP-203, OPPO HA-1, PS4 Pro
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post #311 of 346 Old 05-15-2017, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by memento24 View Post
Thank you very much !
I am sure it will be very helpful, I just got my hands on a PN64F8500 that wont turn on for 300$ CAN. I hope this will make it come back to life.

I am supposed to go get it this afternoon, do you think its worth it ?
Got the Oled in my main room and this would be for my gaming man cave.
It's been nearly 1 week and you've not been back to the thread "BOASTING" regarding the buy/fix etc.

What happened?

*****************************CURIOUS

Has anyone inventoried the boards while rear cover is removed to see how may of these are maybe used throughout the assembly? I imagine most have purchased multiples and I'm curious as to how many might be a considered a reasonable quantity to order.
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post #312 of 346 Old 05-15-2017, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
I'd rather not discuss that publicly.
I would think you'd be doing the community a favour by doing so if they did not legitimately follow through.
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post #313 of 346 Old 05-16-2017, 12:22 PM
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Just to share with all of you having the "turn on" issue....
After more than a year since first symptoms came, and installation of ventilators, time to change the caps has come.
Today it's quite warm and the TV did not come on, even with powering on after disconnection of AC power.

So, I went to local electronics store and bought a 33uF 63V electrolyte Cap.
Afterwards, I have removed the three blue caps and soldered the electrolyte on it's place.
This was much easier to me than soldering the 3 ceramic caps, so I went this way.
Despite knowing that the trimming of various pots could be a good idea, I left it alone.
My unit now works as before, as noticed after some minutes looking at the TV set.

Should I do the trimming which is quite tricky, at least for me, or?

Hope the unit will work for an extended time without problems (my vents are working still)

Tom
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post #314 of 346 Old 05-16-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tomsag View Post
Just to share with all of you having the "turn on" issue....
After more than a year since first symptoms came, and installation of ventilators, time to change the caps has come.
Today it's quite warm and the TV did not come on, even with powering on after disconnection of AC power.

So, I went to local electronics store and bought a 33uF 63V electrolyte Cap.
Afterwards, I have removed the three blue caps and soldered the electrolyte on it's place.
This was much easier to me than soldering the 3 ceramic caps, so I went this way.
Despite knowing that the trimming of various pots could be a good idea, I left it alone.
My unit now works as before, as noticed after some minutes looking at the TV set.

Should I do the trimming which is quite tricky, at least for me, or?

Hope the unit will work for an extended time without problems (my vents are working still)

Tom
Is there any substantial argument for which might be the "preferred"? I'll have the singles in hand soon but if there were a valid argument for "a preferred" I'm certainly interested! I'll be "watching"!!!!!
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post #315 of 346 Old 05-16-2017, 05:59 PM
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PN64F8500 here...
Set has been acting up over the last few months with the same symptoms described by everyone else. Last week it decided that it wasn't going to display any picture no matter how many times I turned it on and off.

3rd party warranty provider has done everything in their power to not honor the warranty (Mack International), and truthfully, they probably wouldn't be able to get a new board anyway.

Thanks to this thread, capacitors ordered, and soldering gun waiting on deck. Can't wait for them to get here so I can get to work and hopefully fix this thing (my life has felt empty the last few days, and my wife is starting to get irritated).

Fingers crossed...
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post #316 of 346 Old 05-18-2017, 09:30 AM
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I have the 60f5500 and I've had the problem for about a year now. It was really hot yesterday and now it stopped working just getting blinking red light. I read through this whole thread and didn't see any pictures of we're the 3 compasitors are located for the 60f5500. Can anyone please tell me were they are located thank you.
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post #317 of 346 Old 05-19-2017, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Payton View Post
I have the 60f5500 and I've had the problem for about a year now. It was really hot yesterday and now it stopped working just getting blinking red light. I read through this whole thread and didn't see any pictures of we're the 3 compasitors are located for the 60f5500. Can anyone please tell me were they are located thank you.
I think you are looking at the wrong board. The one that has three blue faulty caps is on the left side if you are looking at the back of the TV set.
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post #318 of 346 Old 05-19-2017, 03:09 PM
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This is the area u are showing but I don't see three of them.
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post #319 of 346 Old 05-19-2017, 03:21 PM
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Here's some more pics
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post #320 of 346 Old 05-19-2017, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memento24 View Post
Thank you very much !
I am sure it will be very helpful, I just got my hands on a PN64F8500 that wont turn on for 300$ CAN. I hope this will make it come back to life.

I am supposed to go get it this afternoon, do you think its worth it ?
Got the Oled in my main room and this would be for my gaming man cave.
I will get the tv back this Wednesday, unfortunately, the caps where not the only problem with the set I got and the Y-Board had to be "refurbished" (I dont know if this is the right term in english). The repair shop have to replace a bunch of parts on it. 320$ Canadian worth of repairs.

So this tv will set me back to 620$ CAD.
I think it is worth it since it is the last great plasma and that I never had one before (a plasma).
Cant wait to compare blurays with the oled.

Living room: LG 65E6, PN64F8500, Sonos 5.1, OPPO UDP-203, OPPO HA-1, PS4 Pro
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post #321 of 346 Old 05-20-2017, 11:51 AM
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I've joined the ranks of the dead.......

My 51f8500 just died. Watching it and all of the sudden pic went away, no status light, just black screen. In my case I contacted Squaretrade with whom I had bought a 4 year warranty for $105 and they are shipping three different boards to my home with a repair scheduled for next Thursday. Best I could do with the schedule for parts and repair. I'll let everyone know what he or maybe she puts in.
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post #322 of 346 Old 05-20-2017, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Payton View Post
Here's some more pics
Sorry, you have another TV set, just noticed that it's not 8500 model.
The boards are not the same.

However - it might be a cap problem, but I do not know which one.
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post #323 of 346 Old 05-24-2017, 11:22 AM
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I have a PN64F5500 that intermittently will not have any video. The red light blinks 6 times, then stops. I ordered and installed a new Samsung power supply, but it still occurs. Do you think it is the Y-board (BN96-25264A LJ92-01929A on my TV)? Could it be the caps? If so, what kind and value are the caps so I can purchase them before I rip the board out. Thanx in advance. One more thing, if I unplug it and press the power so it drains the power, it will power back on.

EDIT: I'm seeing talk here about having to adjust voltages after replacing those caps (never heard of this before if the caps are identical!) Will I need to get that done? If I bought a board off eBay, will I still need to get the voltages adjusted?

EDIT: Ok, looking at the board on the eBay post, I don't see any potentiometers TO adjust! And where would the capacitors that need to be replaced be on THIS Y-board??


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post #324 of 346 Old 05-31-2017, 02:16 PM
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I have a PN64F5500 that intermittently will not have any video. The red light blinks 6 times, then stops.
That is the same behaviour that we've all experienced with our F8500's so it's likely the cause is the same. That said, this thread is about a different model TV than you have and the boards are no the same so you'll likely have to do your own digging to determine which cap(s) are the culprit(s) in your case. If you're lucky the blown caps are electrolytic instead of ceramic, they are often easy to tell visually.

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post #325 of 346 Old 06-02-2017, 12:10 PM
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Another Samsung PN64F8500 fixed by replacing the Y board capacitors. My set was 3.5 years old and showing symptoms for 6 to 9 months before completely failing three weeks ago. I searched for and found this thread. I read it front to back several times and ordered the capacitors from Mouser.com. I then decided that I didn't want to learn how to solder components using this excellent and irreplaceable plasma. I googled "circuit board repair" and found a local shop that was willing to do the job for me.

I took the board in and watched them do the repair. I'm glad I didn't try and do this myself. All my experience swapping boards and fixing computers was irrelevant. I would have jumped right in and screwed it up. Removing the old capacitors was a lot more difficult and involved than I thought it would be. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from going that route but if you do, as suggested by others here, cut the posts!

Anyway, I took the repaired board home, plugged it in, replaced the back cover, and gave a little yelp as the set came back to life. It was pretty impressive, to me anyway, that those 3 small capacitors were such an immediate and fundamental fix. The dead brought back to life. I didn't attempt to adjust the voltage settings but I haven't seen any degradation in the picture quality or other anomalies.

Only one small additional tip on removing the Y board from the six left side connectors. . . The edge of the board the connectors are mounted on sits about a quarter inch below the edge of the Y board. Being very careful not to touch any circuits or components I inserted the blade of a broad flat head screwdriver between the two boards. Without moving the screw driver up, down, left or right, I gave it a small twist. I did this several times alternating the location up and down the board. After a couple of iterations it popped right out. It is important to only move the Y board by the a small amount as you alternate between locations. You want the Y board to stay as straight as possible. If the top or bottom gets too far ahead of the other you run the risk of bending pins or maybe even breaking a connector.

Many, many thanks to everyone who have taken the time to share their knowledge and experience!!!
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post #326 of 346 Old 06-02-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mithrilG60 View Post
That is the same behaviour that we've all experienced with our F8500's so it's likely the cause is the same. That said, this thread is about a different model TV than you have and the boards are no the same so you'll likely have to do your own digging to determine which cap(s) are the culprit(s) in your case. If you're lucky the blown caps are electrolytic instead of ceramic, they are often easy to tell visually.
Unfortunately, there are NO posts regarding my model and the power on issue on this forum! Are there other Samsung forums I might find more info on?

Mike
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post #327 of 346 Old 06-02-2017, 01:50 PM
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OK - from what I can find, the Y-board is the same for the 5500 and the 8500 - at least same PN - can someone smarter than me confirm this please?

Mike
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post #328 of 346 Old 06-14-2017, 06:14 AM
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Cool I should open an electronics repair shop

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If I can install them and it fixes my plasma without catching fire or electrocuting my cat, I would be happy to help you as well. I bought plenty of caps. Send me a PM and I'll give you my contact details.
Well, this weekend the wife got fed up with the tv's bad behavior and I tackled the fix. It was getting bad enough that I had to pull power to get it to turn on.

I pulled it off the wall, removed and notated all the screws, back panel off, then could easily see the board on the left hand side. I decided to remove the board to ease soldering, using the twisting-screwdriver method to disconnect the left-hand side plugs. Once the board was removed, it was easy to find the bad caps, snip them off, then use shakey hands to do some of the world's worst soldering ever. I spent twenty minutes first trying to determine if there was a right or wrong orientation. I don't think there is, and in the end I copied how they were installed with the print on the caps facing the same way Samsung did it.

After confirming each soldered leg was solid, I reassembled, had no extra screws (bonus!) and did a test....for complete success! Over the weekend I had many on-off events, all of which were just fine, including a few on-immediately-after-turning-off ones that were real trouble before. Once again, thanks to the fine members here for an easy fix that saved my TV and possibly my marriage.
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post #329 of 346 Old 06-15-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by n23 View Post
Well, this weekend the wife got fed up with the tv's bad behavior and I tackled the fix. It was getting bad enough that I had to pull power to get it to turn on.

I pulled it off the wall, removed and notated all the screws, back panel off, then could easily see the board on the left hand side. I decided to remove the board to ease soldering, using the twisting-screwdriver method to disconnect the left-hand side plugs. Once the board was removed, it was easy to find the bad caps, snip them off, then use shakey hands to do some of the world's worst soldering ever. I spent twenty minutes first trying to determine if there was a right or wrong orientation. I don't think there is, and in the end I copied how they were installed with the print on the caps facing the same way Samsung did it.

After confirming each soldered leg was solid, I reassembled, had no extra screws (bonus!) and did a test....for complete success! Over the weekend I had many on-off events, all of which were just fine, including a few on-immediately-after-turning-off ones that were real trouble before. Once again, thanks to the fine members here for an easy fix that saved my TV and possibly my marriage.
Great job! Nothing more rewarding than fixing something yourself!
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post #330 of 346 Old 06-15-2017, 10:26 AM
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Great job! Nothing more rewarding than fixing something yourself!
Thanks!

Also, achebee4you, PM me a way to contact you outside the board as I don't have enough posts to PM you back.
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