Buying a Craigs List plasma advice - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-04-2016, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Buying a Craigs List plasma advice

I need to replace my plasma that has developed four black lines. I am also looking at LCDs (which I really don't like). But if I were to find one on CL what exactly should I be looking at and considering. When you are evaluating in some elses home I highly doubt a lot of tinkering is going to be allowed. So what should I look for or should I just scrap the idea?
Right now I can score a 55vt30 for $575 or a TC-P58S2 for $325.
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-04-2016, 05:18 PM
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I would have the owner enter the Service Menu and check the hours of operation and tell me what kind of usage it experienced (primary TV, secondary TV, business TV on 24/7, etc.).
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post #3 of 19 Old 01-04-2016, 07:47 PM
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I would bring a flashlight and check for any cracks on the screen, any scratches if any on the anti reflective filter, check for burn in, bring a usb stick with the colored slides on it.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-05-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmeng View Post
I would bring a flashlight and check for any cracks on the screen, any scratches if any on the anti reflective filter, check for burn in, bring a usb stick with the colored slides on it.
+1 on all of the above, and i'd also bring up a white screen and listen for excessive buzzing (you should not be able to hear buzzing from more than a foot or two away).

I wouldn't worry too much about the hours on the panel - it's rated for 100,000 hours as it is (like 30+ years of daily use) so as long as the TV checks out per the above checklists it wouldn't matter to me how many hours it has on it.

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post #5 of 19 Old 01-05-2016, 01:51 PM
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All good advice above. I bought my 65" VT30 of CL less than a year ago. It needed the A board repaired so I had that done. It is still going strong and I am absolutely in love with the picture.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-06-2016, 09:42 AM
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I have a Panasonic TC-P60VT60 I may need to sell. what is a fair price?
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-07-2016, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarich View Post
I need to replace my plasma that has developed four black lines. I am also looking at LCDs (which I really don't like). But if I were to find one on CL what exactly should I be looking at and considering. When you are evaluating in some elses home I highly doubt a lot of tinkering is going to be allowed. So what should I look for or should I just scrap the idea?
Right now I can score a 55vt30 for $575 or a TC-P58S2 for $325.
Watch winter Olympic sports,skiing,hockey,curling.In the light colored areas Look for red discolouring areas,horizontal dark bars that go across the screen,dirty screen dark or red blotches.These problems are more there "when the camera moves around a lot".It would be easier too see if you turn the the color to zero and in a dark room.With color at zero you could see some discolored" blotches purple or green" as well that are not supposed to be there.its part of the technology of plasma" they all do it" but if its really noticeable I would not buy it.

Make sure the picture settings are around the advised settings for that model.Look for burn in.
I think burn in is easier to spot on light screens but not sure.
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post #8 of 19 Old 01-07-2016, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarich View Post
I need to replace my plasma that has developed four black lines. I am also looking at LCDs (which I really don't like). But if I were to find one on CL what exactly should I be looking at and considering. When you are evaluating in some elses home I highly doubt a lot of tinkering is going to be allowed. So what should I look for or should I just scrap the idea?
Right now I can score a 55vt30 for $575 or a TC-P58S2 for $325.
Watch winter Olympic sports,skiing,hockey,curling.In the light colored areas Look for red discolouring areas,horizontal dark bars that go across the screen,dirty screen dark or red blotches.These problems are more there "when the camera moves around a lot".It would be easier too see if you turn the the color to zero and in a dark room.With color at zero you could see some discolored" blotches purple or green" as well that are not supposed to be there.its part of the technology of plasma" they all do it" but if its really noticeable I would not buy it.

Make sure the picture settings are around the advised settings for that model.Look for burn in.
I think burn in is easier to spot on light screens but not sure.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-10-2016, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Honestly should I bother looking at the used 55vt30. The guy tells me is perfect, but has a manufacturing date of May 2011.
I am starting to get leary of the idea of buying used.
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post #10 of 19 Old 01-10-2016, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarich View Post
Honestly should I bother looking at the used 55vt30. The guy tells me is perfect, but has a manufacturing date of May 2011. I am starting to get leery of the idea of buying used.
The build date is inconsequential. As long as that used 55VT30 is in perfect condition (no burn-in, no buzzing, no scratches or blemishes on the screen etc etc) then it's a pretty good deal. That model is a solid performer.

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post #11 of 19 Old 01-11-2016, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I was concerned about the light fluctuations issue on the 2011 panny plasmas. Also would I be better off with a p50s64 since it is newer instead?

Last edited by Zarich; 01-11-2016 at 03:19 PM.
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post #12 of 19 Old 01-13-2016, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarich View Post
Honestly should I bother looking at the used 55vt30. The guy tells me is perfect, but has a manufacturing date of May 2011.
I am starting to get leary of the idea of buying used.
Those 2011 30 models had defective software, which destroyed the SC-SU-SD boards.

Unless the firmware was updated on the TV, I'd avoid that 30 series.

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #13 of 19 Old 01-14-2016, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarich View Post
I was concerned about the light fluctuations issue on the 2011 panny plasmas. Also would I be better off with a p50s64 since it is newer instead?
The S64 series is pretty good for an entry level model. It's exactly the same as the S60 series, but adds the Anti-Reflective Filter that came on the higher ST60 model. I'd probably pick an S64 over a VT30/ST30 series.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post
Those 2011 30 models had defective software, which destroyed the SC-SU-SD boards. Unless the firmware was updated on the TV, I'd avoid that 30 series.
Is it possible for the end-user to update the firmware on this model? I remember self-updating the firmware on my old PZ700U by downloading it from Panasonic's support site. Dunno if they even have a support site anymore.

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post #14 of 19 Old 01-14-2016, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
Is it possible for the end-user to update the firmware on this model? I remember self-updating the firmware on my old PZ700U by downloading it from Panasonic's support site. Dunno if they even have a support site anymore.
The firmware and instructions can be found here and here.

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Last edited by tomwil; 01-14-2016 at 01:11 PM.
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-14-2016, 04:18 PM
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I am in the same boat. Let us know what you pick?
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post #16 of 19 Old 01-15-2016, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I picked neither. Someone beat me to the s64 and I just can't get myself to spend $550 on a used vt30. There is too much worry about failures. I either want cheaper or newer. So I am still looking.
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post #17 of 19 Old 01-17-2016, 02:08 PM
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Here is my .02, I picked up a Pio Elite 61"PRO-1410HD off of CL. The unit worked fine at the sellers, unfortunately once I got it home & hung it was dead as Caesar.
The "pucker factor" over the next two days of R&D was unbelievable. The glare from the "minister of finance" in my house could have stopped a train.

I finally found a "secret safety switch" that was flush on the bottom of the black bezel. You could run your hand around the frame all day and never know it was there. Once I depressed this flush plastic piece the unit powered up. The seller had put a piece of black electrical tape on it that I later found in the car that fell off during transit.

The best I can figure is this is intended to activate if the unit tips over and falls off the stand. Probably a result of some legal windfall decision conjured up by a room of lawyers. If this 148 lb unit fell over in it's stand, the least of your worries would be electrocution !

If the unit you are looking at is missing the OEM remote, manual or stand, each has value so make sure it's discounted accordingly.

Good Hunting
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post #18 of 19 Old 01-17-2016, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
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Here is my .02, I picked up a Pio Elite 61"PRO-1410HD off of CL. The unit worked fine at the sellers, unfortunately once I got it home & hung it was dead as Caesar.....I finally found a "secret safety switch" that was flush on the bottom of the black bezel. You could run your hand around the frame all day and never know it was there. Once I depressed this flush plastic piece the unit powered up. The seller had put a piece of black electrical tape on it that I later found in the car that fell off during transit.

The best I can figure is this is intended to activate if the unit tips over and falls off the stand. Probably a result of some legal windfall decision conjured up by a room of lawyers.
That's not a safety switch, it's a Master Power switch and i think all Pioneer monitors have this. You have to turn this switch on to put the TV into Standby Mode, so that it will power up with the remote.

This switch has scared a lot of new Pioneer owners over the years so you're not alone

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post #19 of 19 Old 01-18-2016, 09:57 AM
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Always bring a USB/SD card and throw up some white or gray slides to check for burn-in. You'd be surprised that many people have it and don't even realize it. I've had this happen before when looking.

Even if these panels are rated for 100K hours, I've also found that if you can actually get into the service menu and discover the hours, it often makes it a little easier to negotiate a lower price - especially if it's like 12-15K hours on a set that's already overpriced to begin with.
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