I'm sort of in the same boat as you guys... I broke my Kuro (accident) but I have premium home insurance that is supposed to fully cover accidents including dropping your phone on the floor and cracking screen, spilling coffee on your macbook etc.
Since they don't make plasma, and are obliged to replace with similar value... I wonder what the insurance company will do.
Plasma is an emissive display (like OLED) and not transmissive (Like all LED/LCDs/QLEDs)
The Kuro cost $4000 back in its day, but that was 9 years ago... but it was the world's best display 2008,2009,2010,2011,2012 and some would even say 2013 (ZT60/VT60/first gen OLED).
I'm going to try and argue that the $4000 2008 model Kuro is worth the cost of an LG B6 ($1500 in my country)
I filled out the form with consideration that the Kuro cost $4000 and that todays replacement product is worth $1500, so far the programme / automatic fill out form estimates I have to pay $200 myself and they'll cover the rest of the replacement cost.
But I'm terrified that the insurance company will undervalue the TV, "hurr-durr 8 year old plasma is probably worse than a $300 TCL LCD"
Cause even if they give me a $1200-1300 LCD (which is so close to $1600 anyway, I'd rather pay the extra couple hundred bucks out of pocket) , the best TV I can get for that money is a 55" Samsung KS9000 which is a great TV, but...
- 0.02 cd/m2 blacks vs 0.003 cd/m2 blacks (0.001 in my case)
- 7000:1 ANSI contrast vs 40,000:1 ANSI contrast (120,000:1 in my case)
- 300 lines of motion resolution vs 1080 lines of motion resolution
- terrible viewing angle vs flawless viewing angle
- average screen uniformity vs perfect screen uniformity.
- clouding vs no clouding
+ HDR peak highlights over 1000+ nit vs no HDR (huge advantage with <1% of content but not relevant with >99% of content)
+ 4K resolution vs 1080p (for what its worth)
+ better in bright room (but I have a completely darkened out room thanks to 99% light proof "curtains" (I don't know the word/name for it)
+ Greater DCI-P3 coverage
+ 10 bit panel vs 8 bit panel
* similar average CCT
* equally low DeltaE
* same gamma more or less
* Neither have any burn in issues, near-black, vignetting etc..
My objective comparison to a $1200+ LCD... So if you compare vs a sub-$1000 LCD then the Kuro absolutely destroys it, especially when it has 7-20 times better blacks and 7-20 times higher contrast (most important factors of image quality) compared to the KS9000...
Let me know how it works out for everyone here and maybe I'll refer to some cases here