Panasonic TH-42PA20 shut down issue - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 1019 Old 09-24-2010, 08:58 PM
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I have found a circuit and also I beleive the fault to be with an IC6601 that controls 2 Mosfets in a Voltage Boost circuit, I think the chip is a M63992FP made by Mitsubishi. I have checked the Mosfets and the Superfast Dual Diodes, both check out o.k. I don't believe its the transistors controlling the Mosfets but the IC controlling them. Inductors in the circuit are still generating voltage as testiment to High voltage ~220 VDC seen momentarily when measuring circuit. Anyone got any thoughts on this?
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post #992 of 1019 Old 11-03-2010, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnpa2534ae View Post

dude, your problem is some of those mosfet shorted, it burns that mosfet because some of the other mosfet are shorted ... you need to test one by one .... or buy a new sc board
!

Ok, this tv has sc board that is the one to the left, it has the d1 board with sound builted in, d2 board that goes inside d1, the first power supply and the tnpa2598 big power supplu, then finally the ss board.

Do you mean that SS board may not be working properly? how to test the boltages in it?
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post #993 of 1019 Old 11-03-2010, 01:03 AM
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The real problem was the sc board that had a mosfet burned! I could not fix it and replaced the full board! and the tv is powering on, but it remains on that gray screen ... I can see the back light of plasma on .......

Then I suspected of d1, this d1 has a sound card builted in and fun control ...... I ordered a brand new board and still the same symptom!

Now that I arrive here, I got the full diagram for this TNPA2598, that is the main power supply that supply the driver boards ..... I will test item per item!!!! and I will follow the tracks one by one into diodes, and I will look over the internet information of datasheet in order to test it.

Then, after I understand item per item of this power supply ..... I believe there is some problem in this power supply it has some optocuplers .... many zener diods ..... mosfets and inductors!

I will test one by one until I find the problem.

Now lets see who is the boss!!!!
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post #994 of 1019 Old 11-03-2010, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahooooey View Post

I have this same repeating problem as others with respect to the SC board, but rather than swap out the SC board I'd like to try and repair it, is their a circuit diagram for this board?

Just to help those who might attempt to repair this TV or boards:

TH-42PA20U Service Manual

TH-42PA20U Technical Guide

I found the technical guide helpful in understanding the circuitry of later models.

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #995 of 1019 Old 11-05-2010, 12:09 AM
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CHAMPION CVI4200 42" PLASMA MONITOR

Chassis No. J3W-CVI4200
S\\N: 54201838

MADE IN JAPAN 1AA6P4S2905


Ok, forum I am am a slave of my words!

Here is the power lines


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1288936214


Then I just begin to create a pdf files specifical for this model of Champion Cvi4200, later I will post a link here in order to help another electrical engineer to repair This plasma tv.

It is a shame that Champion company so called respected company is doing to their customers as there is not a service manual for this and the technology are mixes with "Sanyo, Panasonic and Fujitsu".

THE MAIN BOARDS RESPONSIBLE FOR MANY PROBLEMS AND THE ONES I AM TESTING RIGHT NOW AND CREATING A PDF WITH ALL OF THEM TOGETHER AFTER EDITING THE WORKING STEPS USING PANASONIC TRAINING CURSES ARE:

Champion "CVI4200" uses "P1" FROM PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5 TNPA2598, AS SS BOARD SUSTAIN BOARD TNPA2535 ALSO FROM PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5, AS SC SCAN BOARD TNPA2534 ALSO AS PANASONIC TH-42PW5/TH-42PWD5,

NOW AS "D2" BOARD TNPA2653 (THIS IS THE BOARD THAT CONTROLS THE LOGIC PULSES ON BOTH SC AND SS BOARDS).

I AM DESPERATE LOOKING FOR DIAGRAM OF D2 TNPA2653 BOARD IN ORDER TO FINISH MY MANUAL AND GO AHEAD TO DIAGNOSES ONCE I GOT ALL CIRCUITS INTO A DOCUMENT.

IS THERE A REPLACEMENT SIMILAR BOARD FOR THIS D2??? THE REASON I AM ASKING THIS IS BECAUSE IT HAS A FIRMWARE THAT SYNCH TO SANYO D1?

THIS CHAMPION CVI4200 USES THE SAME "D1 BOARD FROM SANYO"

BOARD THAT SANYO PLASMA TV USES ON ... PDP-42WV1 / PDP-42WV1S / PDP-42WV1A / PDP-42WV1AS

AS "D1" THIS CHAMPION 42CVI USES SANYO "D1" THAT HAS THIS SERIAL NUMBER ATTACHED TO IT (J3WG 407J01 B10N040A0) THIS BOARD WORKS TOGETHER WITH A RESSONANT FILTER THAT SOURCES THE STB 5V TO THIS SANYO "D1" AND THIS FILTER HAS A NUMBER IN IT (SUP-R10G-E1-5)

This SUP could mean "supressor".

THIS D1 BOARD HAS "Z" BOARD BUILTED IN, I MEAN THE SOUND CARD IS BUILTED IN THIS BOARD ALSO THE CONTROL FOR TWO FANS, ONE TO THE RIGHT AND ANOTHER IN FRONT OF THIS (SUP-R10G-E1-5)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1288936198


BUT I NEED TO FIND THE DOCUMENT RELATED TO THIS TNPA2653 AND ALSO HOW TO TEST IT!!!

I NEED TO CHECK IF THE VIDEO SIGNAL IS GOING TO THIS BOARD ONCE I POWER ON THE UNITAND IF THIS BOARD IS SENDING THE SIGNAL TRIGGER TO MOSFET ON SC AND SS DRIVERS.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1288936198

I could not understand this ................


THEN ........

BINGO!!!

I WILL FIND OUT WHATS WORONG WITH THIS STUFF.

PLEASE, HELP ME ............................................. IT IS ALMOST ONE YEAR WORRIED AND WORKING INTO THIS PLASMA TV.

I'VE ORDERED TNPA2534 BRAND NEW AFTER THE MOSFET WAS BURNED!

BUT I ONLY GOT A GRAY SCREEN ONLY WITH PLASMA LIGHTS ON

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1280469865

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...4&d=1280469865

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...5&d=1280469865


NOW THE NEXT STEP WILL BE:

1) CHECK VOLTAGE LINES ON "D2",
2)CHECK IF "D1" IS SENDING THE SIGNAL TO "D2",
3)CHECK IF "D2 TNPA2653" IS TRIGGERING THE VOLTAGES ON SC AND SS BOARDS.


BY THE WAY .....

I GOT A "D1 (J3WG 407J01 B10N040A0) THE SAME THAT SANYO PLASMA TV USES ON ... PDP-42WV1 / PDP-42WV1S / PDP-42WV1A / PDP-42WV1AS" TO SELL AS I DID NOT TESTED THIS BOARD AND JUST ORDERED IT, I can accept paypal.

MY EMAIL IS italiangirardi@gmail.com
LL
LL
LL
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post #996 of 1019 Old 11-05-2010, 12:14 AM
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I just spent hours and hours in this frustrated plasma repair and my looses are already out of control ..............
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post #997 of 1019 Old 11-07-2010, 03:29 AM
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It is a quite hard job to organize and mount a "pdf" manual using mixed technologies of 3 companies!

But I am doing as much as I can to make a proper "pdf" for this Champion CV14200

Maybe one day I will get a job to make "technical manuals" as I am quite logic and smart to make this kind of stuff.
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post #998 of 1019 Old 12-14-2010, 09:14 PM
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Hello, I have an old (Jan 2003) TH42PWD5UY that shuts down shortly (not always immediately - sometimes up to 5-10 minutes later) after being turned on.

I took the cover off and pulled the SU board and got a picture on the bottom. Put the SU back in and pulled the SD. Picture now on top. Put the SD back in - weird psychedelic colors on the bottom. Re-seated the SD a couple of times and a full screen picture showed up. Ran like this (with no rear cover) for 10-20 minutes without any problems.

So - I thanked the electronics gods and put the cover back on and turned the TV back on. I was able to watch TV for 5-10 minutes, then it turned off again with the same 2 Red Flash code.

Do I have screwy boards or is this possibly a different issue?

Do this monitors still fetch any $ when sold for parts? I'm tempted to collect whatever I can and buy a new TV...

Thanks,

\\ Henrik
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post #999 of 1019 Old 12-15-2010, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gr8dane View Post

Hello, I have an old (Jan 2003) TH42PWD5UY that shuts down shortly (not always immediately - sometimes up to 5-10 minutes later) after being turned on.

I took the cover off and pulled the SU board and got a picture on the bottom. Put the SU back in and pulled the SD. Picture now on top. Put the SD back in - weird psychedelic colors on the bottom. Re-seated the SD a couple of times and a full screen picture showed up. Ran like this (with no rear cover) for 10-20 minutes without any problems.

So - I thanked the electronics gods and put the cover back on and turned the TV back on. I was able to watch TV for 5-10 minutes, then it turned off again with the same 2 Red Flash code.

Do I have screwy boards or is this possibly a different issue?

Do this monitors still fetch any $ when sold for parts? I'm tempted to collect whatever I can and buy a new TV...

Thanks,

\\ Henrik

Well, either the SU (probably) or SD or even the SC is heating up only with the cover on.
Try the same SU/SD pull test and put the cover back on until it overheats again.
Of course put a piece of plastic around the removed board so it doesn't short against the rear panel.

TW

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post #1000 of 1019 Old 12-17-2010, 04:25 PM
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Hi TechniWizard - thanks for your reply.

The situation has changed a little. I tried pulling the SU board, the SD board and both of them together, but every time I turn the TV on now, it sits for 2-3 seconds and then a red LED (marked D853) on the SC board lights up briefly and the TV turns off. Then I get the two red flashes again.

So - bad SC board? I'm wondering if I'd be better off just replacing all 3 of them...

I see some on ebay. If you happen to have any for sale, please send me a PM?

Thanks,

\\ Henrik
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post #1001 of 1019 Old 12-17-2010, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gr8dane View Post
Hi TechniWizard - thanks for your reply.

The situation has changed a little. I tried pulling the SU board, the SD board and both of them together, but every time I turn the TV on now, it sits for 2-3 seconds and then a red LED (marked D853) on the SC board lights up briefly and the TV turns off. Then I get the two red flashes again.

So - bad SC board? I'm wondering if I'd be better off just replacing all 3 of them...

I see some on ebay. If you happen to have any for sale, please send me a PM?

Thanks,

\\ Henrik
Yes, the SC is a prime suspect, but the SU and/or SD could be bad also.
Some of the later series' 7 blink troubleshooting tips may work on your SC but if you have zero electronics experience, I would not recommend DIY.

TW

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post #1002 of 1019 Old 01-12-2011, 03:35 PM
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Dude, your case is like icecream, you must chase the heat factor.....

ALL ELECTRICAL MOSFET GET HOT AND STOP WORKING ONCE CAPACITANCE DROPS DOWN THE MINIMUM LIMIT TO CHARGE DC VOLTS THAT LATER ON WILL BE USED TO GENERATE THE HIGH VOLTAGE SIGNALS.

PLASMA TV USES UGE CAPACITANCE ........ ON MAIN POWER BOARD AND MEDIUM CAPACITORS AT THE SS AND SC BOARDS.

Please, follow this instructions.

1:=>Remove again your tv stuff in order to get access to all the boards you suspect has the problem.

2:=>Turn on tv and wait to it turn off by overheating and check if your fun were powered on during this overheat process, if fun does not turn on, this is the problem, check why your fun is not powering on, IT MAY BE A FUN BROKEN .... SENSOR FAULTY...... OR EVEN YOUR "D1" FAULTY.

3:=>After it turned off, remove all the power and wait some seconds in order to the capacitors to discharge.


4:=>Once the power cord is removed, check with your fingers the very hot parts.

IMMEDIATELY BEGIN TO PUT YOUR FINGERS ON ALL THE "POWER COMPONENTS CHASING HOT PARTS".

5:=>Chase the tracks untill you got the nearer capacitor of those parts that is hot.

6:=>Check for visible blown up capacitors, it will be abnormal fat and hot, components overheat in majority of cases because missing of capacitance on main power that supply those voltages.

8=>Replace the capacitors blown up.


GOOD LUCK
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post #1003 of 1019 Old 01-12-2011, 03:56 PM
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ALL ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT STOP WORKING ONCE MINIMUM CAPACITANCE REQUEIRED DROPS DOWN ITS LIMIT.

THIS SHOULD BE THE TEACHERS LESSONS ON HARVARD UNIVERS. WHEN A CAPACITOR GETS HOT, DC CURRENT STOPS OR BECOME UNSTABLE.

IN THIS TV, IT HAS AN IC THAT MONITORS THE VOLTAGE AND TURN OFF TV ONCE VOLTAGE FALL DOWN ITS MINIMUM REQUIRED.


ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL THIS IS CAPACITANCE PROBLEM....... I DID REPAIRED HUNDREDS OF HI POWER EQUIPMENTS ONLY REPLACING KEY CAPACITORS.

GO EBAY, FIND A PRECISE CAPACITOR TESTER

I AM NOT SELLING NOTHING JUST TRYING TO EDUCATE PEOPLE INTO THEIR SOLUTIONS.....

HERE ON EBAY HAS A VERY GOOD CAPACITOR TESTER IN MY OPINION OF TECHNICIAN.

http://cgi.ebay.com/EC153-Capacitor-...item4a9847ee22

GOOD LUCK.
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post #1004 of 1019 Old 01-18-2011, 08:12 PM
 
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TW, maybe you can diagnose the issue:

When I turn the TH-50PHD8UK unit on, four thin vertical lines appear on the left side, going from the bottom of the screen to halfway up the screen (2 red and 2 green, each is 1-pixel wide). I can toggle the inputs with the remote and I can see the input displayed in the upper right-hand corner. The lines on the left are there in every input. After a few seconds, the GREEN (not red) light blinks 5 times, each time with audible clicking, as if the unit was trying to turn itself on/off. During the clicking cycle the lines disappear, only to appear again after 5 clicks. And so it continues until I power off the unit.

I disconnected all the cables, removed all power for a day - same thing. Any idea what might be wrong? Thanks!
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post #1005 of 1019 Old 02-09-2011, 05:45 PM
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TW,

I am local. How much do you charge for your services for the Panasonic TH-42PA20 shut down issue FIX.

PLease let me know if you are interested in some business.
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post #1006 of 1019 Old 02-09-2011, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trung1130 View Post

TW,

I am local. How much do you charge for your services for the Panasonic TH-42PA20 shut down issue FIX.

PLease let me know if you are interested in some business.

Look for a PM.

The unit must be June - August 2003 production to have this symptom.
And 2 or 5 blinks, counted as they go dark.
Usually takes 30 min - several hours to shutdowm.
Changing channels or high brightness causes more often.

Otherwise it is another problem.

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post #1007 of 1019 Old 02-09-2011, 06:46 PM
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I've got the 7 blink problem. It seems swapping out the IC unit in the power panel would be the fix.
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post #1008 of 1019 Old 03-18-2011, 11:53 PM
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Hello - I've read most of this thread, and others I can find on a search for Panasonic TH-42PA20.

( know this is slightly off-topic, but this seems the most alive thread on it!)

(might be a TH-42PA20E - I'm in New Zealand, a PAL country)

I recently picked one up from Freecycle.
It had just gone faulty;-they replaced it.

I have no power LED light, but (with no video/aerial input) I just get a flowing multicolour purplish static on the RH side of screen.

The SC & SS board LEDs are lit, but on close inspection this resistor R461 is so burnt (& is open circuit) that I can't read its value.

It's in the collector circuit of Q491 just below it. Q491 appears to have shorts, on a diode test.

This seems to be (I guess) a revison 3 board - the set is dated 2004 from memory (I just reattached the back, with this board out.)

The layout is slightly different in this area from the board layout in the service manual(s) from ElektroTanya.com.
Also different in this area from an SC (rev. 1?) board I saw for sale.
(Q491 on that was small, like Q492 in my pic)

It's frustrating that in all the material (6 items now, two per day!) that I've downloaded there, there's only a small "revised components" list and nothing overall; certainly not for this (or any other) SC board.

Can anybody please help with this resistor value? (see attached pic)

I may have to replace Q491 2SD1263A & Q492 2SC1473A as well.
From what I can gather from the block diagram, they and IC491 are parts of the VSET regulation system

There were some shreds of sooty dust about; - maybe a cause of the problem, or just component failure?

Very grateful if someone is familiar with this revison of SC board & can look up this value for me - or read it off an actual board!

Thanks & kind regards,

Ross_M
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post #1009 of 1019 Old 04-11-2011, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techniwizard View Post
LED Chart for TH50PX25UP

7 Blinks is the SCAN area, where you found the 2 bad resistors.
Try to power up with the SU or SD disconnected from the SC board. Leave the ribbons to the panel connected.

Look for a good upper or lower 1/2 screen. The removed PCB is likely bad if the other 1/2 screen appears.

TW
If replacing the resistors don't fix it what else should I look for.
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post #1010 of 1019 Old 05-08-2011, 10:07 AM
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My TH-42PWD6UY panel has seen very little use over the years and has finally started to shut down daily with 5 blinks. Unsure of the build date because it's wall mounted, but it's probably around June to Aug 03, because it was purchased in late Sept 03.

I'd like to know if there's a reasonably priced source for IC551 (C5HABZZ00123) other than Panasonic factory parts, since $35 delivered seems a little dear for a simple IC. I did find a source in Canada, but other than that, the part made by Sanken appears to be discontinued.

Thanks,
Byron
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post #1011 of 1019 Old 05-08-2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoxer View Post

My TH-42PWD6UY panel has seen very little use over the years and has finally started to shut down daily with 5 blinks. Unsure of the build date because it's wall mounted, but it's probably around June to Aug 03, because it was purchased in late Sept 03.

I'd like to know if there's a reasonably priced source for IC551 (C5HABZZ00123) other than Panasonic factory parts, since $35 delivered seems a little dear for a simple IC. I did find a source in Canada, but other than that, the part made by Sanken appears to be discontinued.

Thanks,
Byron

I still have a dozen or so of these brand new in the box. I could do $25 delivered. Look for a PM.

T Wiz

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post #1012 of 1019 Old 06-29-2013, 09:54 AM
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Hi , first let me say hello as this is my first post.
I have a Panasonic th-42pwd5 plasma tv that recently started to give me problems.
After power on : green led followed by two flashes of red led, brief flash of light from screen but no picture.
After spending hours going through the 34 pages on here, and through process of elimination,
i pulled sd board nothing on screen,reinstalled then pulled su board still nothing so suspected it was a
faulty sc board . Bought a second hand sc board on ebay that had been tested working and installed it.
unfortunately still same problem, i did notice that during power up the leds on sc and ss board light up briefly,
except only one of two leds light up on ss board.
I have no service manual for this model so any help/advice would be much appreciated
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post #1013 of 1019 Old 08-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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TechniWizard

New to the forum here, but have read a number of your postings and hoping you can help.

I have a TH-42PA20, Nov 2003 that we have had nearly 10 years of troublefree viewing. However, recently it just sudden;y lost video and shutdown. No noise, smoke or smells. The LED code is 11 blinks which I saw from this forum to be related to the PA board. So I ordered a refurbished PA board (TN2884AB PA), installed it with no issues. However it has not fixed the problem. It did not immediately shutdown, but showed a few flickers/flashes of light on the panel then maybe after 20 seconds shutdown and again displayed the 11 blinks. I suspicion there's something else the PA board is supplying power to that is causing the real issue, but that would be a guess.

Do you have any suggestions or more in depth information.

Thanks
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post #1014 of 1019 Old 10-16-2013, 09:34 AM
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th42pa20A

Tv wont turn on standby red light flashes and when tv is on it switches of and light flashes it then NOTHING and you hear another click and then the red light flashes again 12 blinks no picture or sound,replaced ps board,still 12 blinks any ideas?
I change the PS and still I'm having the same problem
Can anybody help me with the next step I have to take?
I download the service manual for this TV but it does not shows the problem mad.gif
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post #1015 of 1019 Old 02-22-2014, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techniwizard View Post


I still have a dozen or so of these brand new in the box. I could do $25 delivered. Look for a PM.

T Wiz

Hi Techniwizard,

 

I have a Panasonic TH-42PA25 with a date stamp of May 2005 (out of the date range you talk about) with the 7 blink issue.  On power up I hear a few clicks then get the 7 blinks and must pull the plug to shut them off.

The power board is TNPA2841 AH with an ic551 of STR F6668.  Since I have the F6668 do you think this is my problem?  Its been a few years since you posted this but do you still have any of the C5HABZZ00123 version for sale?  Panasonic has them backordered (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartsListChoice.asp) and ebay doesn't have it but they do have the F6668.

 

Thanks and Aloha,

Mark

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post #1016 of 1019 Old 02-23-2014, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by markchun View Post

Hi Techniwizard,

I have a Panasonic TH-42PA25 with a date stamp of May 2005 (out of the date range you talk about) with the 7 blink issue.  On power up I hear a few clicks then get the 7 blinks and must pull the plug to shut them off.
The power board is TNPA2841 AH with an ic551 of STR F6668.  Since I have the F6668 do you think this is my problem?  Its been a few years since you posted this but do you still have any of the C5HABZZ00123 version for sale?  Panasonic has them backordered (http://www.pstc.panasonic.com/Epartr/PartsListChoice.asp) and ebay doesn't have it but they do have the F6668.

Thanks and Aloha,
Mark


Mark,

Yes, I still have some of these although the TNPA2841 AH is supposed to have the 123 IC551.
The key is looking for F6668M, which is the 123 IC. F5558B was the original that would go thermal over time.

I could get you one but if you are in HI, the price would be higher due to shipping - guessing $30 total by PayPal or other secure method. Check would have to clear first.

You may in fact need an entire board from some eBay source like ShopJimmy, but be sur to specify the THPA2841 AH suffix.

Your choice. No rush for me as I have had these for several years and there is not much demand these days.

T. Wiz

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Mark,

Yes, I still have some of these although the TNPA2841 AH is supposed to have the 123 IC551.
The key is looking for F6668M, which is the 123 IC. F5558B was the original that would go thermal over time.

I could get you one but if you are in HI, the price would be higher due to shipping - guessing $30 total by PayPal or other secure method. Check would have to clear first.

You may in fact need an entire board from some eBay source like ShopJimmy, but be sur to specify the THPA2841 AH suffix.

Your choice. No rush for me as I have had these for several years and there is not much demand these days.

T. Wiz

Techniwizard,

 

Thanks for the quick response.  My concern was that I already had the AH board but with the F6668 IC.

I couldn't find the TNPA2841 AH from ShopJimmy but there are some other sellers and the price is just a little more than the $30 for the IC alone so that might be the safer route.

 

I recall from a previous post you mentioned a ps board replacement might require some voltage adjustments.  Is that correct?

 

Mark

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Old and New IC551s are labeled F6668, I made a typo in my original post.
The difference is the old IC has a suffix "B" - F6668B. The new one (which you probably have) has a suffix "M" - F6668M

Some of the TNPA2841 boards between suffix AB and suffix AH used a hand selected F6668B but will have a white dot in the upper left corner of the black IC body.
These eventually went thermal also.

A quick but not long-lasting cure is to loosen the mounting screw, bend the IC away from the heatsink, then load it up with white thermal grease, like the small tubes included with CPUs when you are putting together a computer motherboard.

In your case, you are probably better off getting an entire board as all later TH42PA20 and all TH42PA25 were supposed to have the new board.
There are other things that could cause a 7 blink shutdown besides IC551 so shotgunning the whole board should be a good move.

There are Voltage adjustments on a label pasted somewhere on the back of the PDP, Vsus, etc. You will need a DMM (voltmeter) and a copy of the Service Manual to find the test points.

Many manuals are available for download at ELEKTROTANYA.com, an eastern European website, <--- FYI only, enter and download at your own risk, make sure you have virus protection.

In a pinch, look over the pots on the board and match the pointer directions to your original board. Factory parts precision is that tight of a tolerance that makes this possible.

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Originally Posted by Techniwizard View Post

Old and New IC551s are labeled F6668, I made a typo in my original post.
The difference is the old IC has a suffix "B" - F6668B. The new one (which you probably have) has a suffix "M" - F6668M

Some of the TNPA2841 boards between suffix AB and suffix AH used a hand selected F6668B but will have a white dot in the upper left corner of the black IC body.
These eventually went thermal also.

A quick but not long-lasting cure is to loosen the mounting screw, bend the IC away from the heatsink, then load it up with white thermal grease, like the small tubes included with CPUs when you are putting together a computer motherboard.

In your case, you are probably better off getting an entire board as all later TH42PA20 and all TH42PA25 were supposed to have the new board.
There are other things that could cause a 7 blink shutdown besides IC551 so shotgunning the whole board should be a good move.

There are Voltage adjustments on a label pasted somewhere on the back of the PDP, Vsus, etc. You will need a DMM (voltmeter) and a copy of the Service Manual to find the test points.

Many manuals are available for download at ELEKTROTANYA.com, an eastern European website, <--- FYI only, enter and download at your own risk, make sure you have virus protection.

In a pinch, look over the pots on the board and match the pointer directions to your original board. Factory parts precision is that tight of a tolerance that makes this possible.

Actually my IC551 is just "F6668" with NO suffix.

The one being sold on ebay right now has a B suffix so I know what you are referring to.

 

For some reason I keep getting errors trying to insert any image but here's a pic on my OneDrive if you care to look.  http://1drv.ms/1gDKKiB

 

Since I get the 7 blinks immediately on power up I'm not sure if the extra thermal grease would help but I'll give it a shot.

 

I did find the service manual earlier in this thread that another user graciously made available.  I see the adjustments I need to make to Vsus and Vda. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.  I really appreciate your help.

 

Aloha

Mark

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