Philips 42" Plasma (42PF7320A) - Page 70 - AVS Forum
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post #2071 of 2100 Old 01-04-2010, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kpeindl View Post

Ok.. My 42pf7320a/37 is flashing 1 slow red then 4 rapid red and repeating... any idea on what this is? I have seached for 4 blinks and not seen much.

I don't know what the error code means, but I believe the slow blinks are the tens digit of the error code and the rapid blinks are the units digit. If that is correct, the error code you are getting is 14.
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post #2072 of 2100 Old 02-08-2010, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dmck312 View Post

Currently having the same issue. Opened up the back and found the two caps with the bulges. My PS board looks different, but the caps are at the same locations C8059 and C8060, so I'd guess one of us has an older version. I'm heading to radio shack to try and find the part, then buy somewhere online if I can't get it there.

Also, before I got to the blinking red, I was getting the slow power up and increasingly more frequent error codes of multiple flashes (6 and then 4 i think) before it finally completely failed to power up.

How did you determine the identities of the bad capacitors? Is the circuit board labeled with C8059 and C8060 (i.e., is the board stamped with those labels...and are the labels on the top side or the bottom side of the board?). Thanks.

John Hanley
Sugar Land, TX
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post #2073 of 2100 Old 02-08-2010, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by a002074t View Post

Wow - fantastic forum. Let me jump in and add to the power-supply issues and one more possible solution. I just acquired a used 42PF7320A/37 with 6 blinking red lights on power-on. After diagnosing the pwr-supply board, all CAPs look good from top but most had poor solder joints. It was very obvious on C8059 and C8060 (as mentioned previously as CAPs which tend to fail).

Remove the pwr-supply board and look closely at the solder contacts on the back. If you see a ring around the joint, cracking, etc then you have a 'cold solder joint'. Hit those with your soldering iron and some fresh solder. That fixed my issue right up.
All the best, Drew.

How did you determine the identities of the bad capacitors? Is the circuit board labeled with C8059 and C8060 (i.e., is the board stamped with those labels...and are the labels on the top side or the bottom side of the board?). Thanks.

John Hanley
Sugar Land, TX
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post #2074 of 2100 Old 02-17-2010, 10:49 AM
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I have a 42PF7320A/37 When I first plug it in Green light comes on and then the red light starts flashing 7 times. So I thought it was the power Suppy (LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH) and started looking at all the caps. They all look great. So after that I decided to do a little testing I disconneted the jumpers to the X, Y and buffers. I then repluged the unit in and I got green lite and it stayed green. I unplugged (Power) the Unit and statred to replug the buffer X, Y one at a time when I repluged in the Y-main Board (LJ92-01200A) back in and repowered the unit it when back to flashing red lite 7 times because of this testing I suspect the Y-main Boad. Would that be a good assumption?
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post #2075 of 2100 Old 02-18-2010, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by IndMale44 View Post

I have a 42PF7320A/37 When I first plug it in Green light comes on and then the red light starts flashing 7 times. So I thought it was the power Suppy (LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH) and started looking at all the caps. They all look great. So after that I decided to do a little testing I disconneted the jumpers to the X, Y and buffers. I then repluged the unit in and I got green lite and it stayed green. I unplugged (Power) the Unit and statred to replug the buffer X, Y one at a time when I repluged in the Y-main Board (LJ92-01200A) back in and repowered the unit it when back to flashing red lite 7 times because of this testing I suspect the Y-main Boad. Would that be a good assumption?

Did you try the same procedure with the X-main board? if you did & it DIDNT blink red then I'd say your assumption is correct but if it DOES youre back to square one in my opinion. Also you could try to reverse - plug in the Y board then the X board. Let us know how it goes.
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post #2076 of 2100 Old 02-18-2010, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ALRUI View Post

Did you try the same procedure with the X-main board? if you did & it DIDNT blink red then I'd say your assumption is correct but if it DOES youre back to square one in my opinion. Also you could try to reverse - plug in the Y board then the X board. Let us know how it goes.

Yes i did I can leave the X-board pluged in and no red light. I also checked the Voltages on the PSU Board and found them within Spec's as seen Below
except for the two(2) I couldn't find

Output voltage(V)------Voltage Setting (Normal Load)----Output Voltage Variable Point-----Test Results

Vs-------------------------208V-----------------------------190V -210V--------------------194V
Va--------------------------70V------------------------------50V -70V---------------------69.8V
Ve--------------------------90V------------------------------80V -105V--------------------85.9V
Vset-----------------------195V-----------------------------180V -205V---------------------195V
Vscan-------------------- -195V--------------------------- -170V --205V------------------ -188V
Vsb--------------------------5V-------------------------------Fixed----------------couldn't find test point
Vg--------------------------15V-------------------------------Fixed-----------------------15.15V
D5VL-----------------------5.2V-------------------------------Fixed---------------couldn't find test point
D3V3-----------------------3.3V-------------------------------Fixed-------------------------3.3V

If you think there is any other thing I can check before I buy a replacement board please let me know.

And thank you
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post #2077 of 2100 Old 02-19-2010, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IndMale44 View Post

If you think there is any other thing I can check before I buy a replacement board please let me know.

I'd say you did a thorough job! Buy the board then tell us about your success:-)
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post #2078 of 2100 Old 02-25-2010, 01:19 PM
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I changed out the LJ92-01200A Y- board with a Known good one and it still didn't help Also I happen to notice that now on the LJ44-00101B power board there looks like a sub board On layout it says ALARM SUB and one of the diods is lit on it. any sugestions?
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post #2079 of 2100 Old 10-13-2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PGHammer View Post

I've had my 7320A/37A (Mexican-made Philips sold only in North America) for over a year and a half (bedroom wall-mounted on a Peerless tilt/telescope wall-mount) and it's still going strong. I don't have the "mileage" on mine as some of the folks that have frequented this thread (fewer than 1000 hours), but the PQ is still kicking butt and not even bothering to take names.

It's been almost three years since my last post in this thread - however, there's actually a good reason for it.

The TV is still working - in fact, I just installed a CableCARD (Comcast of Prince George's County, MD) in it yesterday.

The only problem I had with the CC is a mis-setup error - but on Comcast's end; not mine.

The ID (on the forum) changed is due to a change in my e-mail address (Comcast HSI) and them failing to allow forwarding. Thus I had to re-register here. (I was originally PGHammer here at AVS Forums.)
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post #2080 of 2100 Old 10-22-2011, 10:11 AM
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So I am glad to have found this thread on these forums. I am in dire need of help from you guys.
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post #2081 of 2100 Old 10-22-2011, 10:17 AM
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I had register to post in here to keep this thread alive and get me some good advice. When I plug the TV in or try to turn it on, it stays off/turns off and blinks red 6 times rapidly. From what I understand this may be some kind of 5v problem. I am not sure which test point I should be testing. I'll buy a new power board if I must, or desolder and replace what I must, in order to get this TV working again. Hopefully you guys can offer me some kind of advice or help to get her back up and running again.

>>Warning 22 MB Image<<
http://www.fileupyours.com/files/315...msungboard.jpg
If anyone has anything important to add to this, I can.



I also have a Philips service manual PDF I found. It covers this model number, so it could work. Problem is I know next to nothing about TVs. I am in school to be an Electrical Engineer though, so I'm no stranger to soldering irons, diagrams, and DMM operations. I am still a stranger to TVs though. It's 30 MB so I can't edit it here, but if you want to check it out I MIGHT be able to email it. Drop me a PM and I can send it to you. It covers a wide range of models, but the one I'm interested is the 42PF7320A of course.
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post #2082 of 2100 Old 11-19-2011, 07:46 PM
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I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED's on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Snowman
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post #2083 of 2100 Old 11-22-2011, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman53 View Post

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence. I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.When I apply power there are two green LED’s on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.Can nyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?Any other suggestions?Thanks!

If it's giving you the 7-Blinking RED LED problem, then it's got to be the same or similar capacitors diagnosed in Thread Pages 28-37 of the main Philips 9631 User Thread.

The 'blown' caps would be very tough to tell unless you look closely -- they may also not exhibit problems. Check out the pictures on the 9631 thread and if you can identify the SAME numbered or similarly-positioned capacitors on your model, I would order replacements from Digikey.

Did you type the model number correctly -- 730A ??? Totally unfamiliar with that designation.

See if you can get the TV turned on using PLUG-UNPLUG (see the 9631 Thread for instructions on how to do this).
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post #2084 of 2100 Old 11-23-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman53 View Post

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED's on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

The picture I posted up there is a picture of the board with a lot of zoomed in parts. Someone may be able to point out which caps you need to replace.
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post #2085 of 2100 Old 11-23-2011, 03:14 PM
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Thanks
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Originally Posted by jeffmace View Post

I just ordered the Philips 42" Plasma(42PF7320A).. Does anyone have any information on this regarding whether its good or not. Did not see any reviews, but I got a good price on it and it had a nice looking display at the store.

Thanks,
Jeff

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post #2086 of 2100 Old 11-23-2011, 05:51 PM
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Thanks for the responce - I will replace the caps, but I sort of suspect that there is some other problem - there is evidence that someone has worked on the TV before.

I miss typed the model number in my post above.

Thanks.

Snowman
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post #2087 of 2100 Old 11-25-2011, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rjhall90 View Post

I had register to post in here to keep this thread alive and get me some good advice. When I plug the TV in or try to turn it on, it stays off/turns off and blinks red 6 times rapidly. From what I understand this may be some kind of 5v problem. I am not sure which test point I should be testing. I'll buy a new power board if I must, or desolder and replace what I must, in order to get this TV working again. Hopefully you guys can offer me some kind of advice or help to get her back up and running again.

Rjhall, I would goto the 9631 Thread and see what the fix was for the 6-LED problem there. It might be similar.

How old is the TV ? At this point, considering the TV is probably either from 2003 or 2004, might just pay to get a new one.
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post #2088 of 2100 Old 11-25-2011, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Rjhall, I would goto the 9631 Thread and see what the fix was for the 6-LED problem there. It might be similar.

How old is the TV ? At this point, considering the TV is probably either from 2003 or 2004, might just pay to get a new one.

I got the TV for free, and if I can fix it for a hundred bucks, it's still way cheaper than a new 42" of any kind. But yeah, in that thread apparently after people fixed the caps they still got 7 blinks. Maybe replacing the power board will fix it, in the same way it fixed theirs?
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post #2089 of 2100 Old 11-28-2011, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rjhall90 View Post

I got the TV for free, and if I can fix it for a hundred bucks, it's still way cheaper than a new 42" of any kind. But yeah, in that thread apparently after people fixed the caps they still got 7 blinks. Maybe replacing the power board will fix it, in the same way it fixed theirs?

Tough to get a new one...and the previous problem with the Power Boards was mostly blown capacitors so buying a new PB doesn't make sense.

Check the fuses posts in the 9631 Thread and make sure you didn't disturb anything while replacing the relevant capacitors.
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post #2090 of 2100 Old 11-28-2011, 09:36 PM
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I have a 42PF7320A which has just recently begun 6 slow red blinks then 3 quick red blinks. I see may posts stating this problem, but found none so far with a fix. Any ideas?
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post #2091 of 2100 Old 11-30-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman53 View Post

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF7320A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED's on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Thanks!

I replaced the C8059 & C8060 caps. The same problem exists. I found the 8.6V test point & it comes up to spec before the monitor kicks in. I did not check every voltage, but all the ones I checked i.e. 12V, 5.2V, 8.6V, etc all seem to be OK. Next I unplugged all of the boards collectively and one at a time.

What I found was that one of the connectors to the tuner board seems to cause the problem. Looking at the back of the TV, the connector is the inboard one on the power board (which goes to the outboard connector on the Tuner board).

Anyone able to offer any suggestions on trouble shooting the tuner board problem?

Thanks!

Snowman
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post #2092 of 2100 Old 12-02-2011, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Tough to get a new one...and the previous problem with the Power Boards was mostly blown capacitors so buying a new PB doesn't make sense.

Check the fuses posts in the 9631 Thread and make sure you didn't disturb anything while replacing the relevant capacitors.

I haven't replaced anything yet. I posted a large picture, but I'll attach some smaller ones.

The capacitors don't have a noticeable bulge. Without a capacitance tester, there's really no way to tell for certain if they're bad or not. I checked the power fuse with a DMM, it's not blown.

Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/qpLPp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GIOBD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rGw9I.jpg
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post #2093 of 2100 Old 12-08-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman53 View Post

I replaced the C8059 & C8060 caps. The same problem exists. I found the 8.6V test point & it comes up to spec before the monitor kicks in. I did not check every voltage, but all the ones I checked i.e. 12V, 5.2V, 8.6V, etc all seem to be OK. Next I unplugged all of the boards collectively and one at a time.

What I found was that one of the connectors to the tuner board seems to cause the problem. Looking at the back of the TV, the connector is the inboard one on the power board (which goes to the outboard connector on the Tuner board).

Anyone able to offer any suggestions on trouble shooting the tuner board problem?

Thanks!

I replaced the tuner board which did not solve the problem. Still getting the dreaded 7 red blinks on the front and eleven blinks on the power supply monitor daughter board.

Pulling the one connector to the tuner board solves the blinking problem.

Anyone able to offer suggestions for solving this?

Thanks!!

Snowman
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post #2094 of 2100 Old 12-11-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post

I finally broke down and ordered a replacement (Sony 52" LCD) for my almost 3 year old Phillips 42". I bought it as a refurb with free shipping. I wish it had lasted longer.

My Phillips has two black lines running down the left side of the screen. They take up about 3-4" of the screen. I've had them for about 6 months, and they have not gotten worse. To be honest with you, I hardly notice them now.

Also, within the past couple of weeks, the bottom half of the screen has been turning black for a few seconds at a time. Then it fixes itself.

Any suggestions what to do with this old TV? Anyone interested in it for parts?

I have a single (somewhat broad) block stripe running slightly to the right of center - worse, I can't get a Motorola M-card (Comcast) to display any sort of pairing data. (The TV does indeed pick up the M-card; however, I always get error message 161-53. I also get a proper channel map; however, without being able to properly pair things up, the channel lineup is (mostly) useless.)

Both happened practically one after the other less than two months ago.

An RPTV (only models currently available with in-set support for CableCARD) is a non-starter (too large), so that means either a Tivo (the sticking point isn't the initial price, but the $20 extra for the service, when I'll be using it basically as an HD STB, as opposed to the other features) or returning the (free) CableCARD (Comcast does not charge for the first one) for an HD STB (yuck - I went with a FP that supports CC to avoid this).

I *did* get six years (bought the set as a new closeout in 2005) out of it, and prices for FPTVs (3D LED-LCD) have been halved for the same screen size class.

Not a knock on Philips - or even on this particular plasma; just reporting what's happening.
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post #2095 of 2100 Old 05-02-2012, 02:25 PM
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Black Screen Problem: I am having a problem that seems very similar to the BSOD problem that the Philips plasmas (7320, 9630, 9631) had years ago. I have a 50" 9631 but it has the latest software (has for years) and not sure if a capacitor or fuse could be behind the problem.

No ERRORS seen in Service Menu.

More details in 9631 Thread, any 7320 Owners who have had the Black Screen problem in recent months/years after the original BSOD was eradicated, please chime in.
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post #2096 of 2100 Old 06-04-2014, 09:23 AM
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Any chance you still have the pdf service manual for the philips 42pf7320a/37?

 

I have the same issues 7 red and 7 green on the daughter brd

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post #2097 of 2100 Old 06-05-2014, 11:13 PM
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I'll have to check and see if I may have a PDF of the manual, its on another computer if I do. Give me a day or so...
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post #2098 of 2100 Old 06-06-2014, 07:42 AM
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Thanks for looking for manual.

To give a bit more detail on issue. This TV was a friend's and I replaced the 2 10v capacitors were a few months ago, at that time there were 6 red blinks. He already had the board out so I never saw the daughter board.

It worked well after that.

He was watching the TV heard a "pop" and that was it. 7red blinks on the power led and 7 green blinks on the board in trhe chasis (I believe is the daughter board). I tried testing the voltage at the Ve, Vs, Vcan, etc and they seem all over the place.

None of the caps look bad, I am not sure where to test the resistors mentioned else where in the thread.
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post #2099 of 2100 Old 06-06-2014, 02:02 PM
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post #2100 of 2100 Old 06-06-2014, 09:06 PM
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Thanks, you beat me to it:-)
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