NEC 50XR5, 42XR4, 61XR4 Settings, Tweaks and Issues Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 148 Old 03-23-2006, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I think most people felt it would be better to have a separate thread to post the settings, tweaks, issues, etc. on the new NEC 50XR5, 42XR4 and 61XR4, rather than have it lost in the main thread. I figured I'd get it started for everyone - but a special thanks to netarc for copying and posting most of the below! (I edited slightly to cut out some of the repetitive settings by cpcat, but feel free to throw them back in if you see fit. ) I've also added my current settings as well. Most people I think find them to cool (tempature wise), but worth trying them all out right?


Main NEC 50XR5 plasma display thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=622396

NEC FAQ
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-f...read.php?t=148

Register your NEC here...
http://www.necvisualsystems.com/Supp.../Registration/

---

WALL MOUNT install specifics
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6911452
http://www.necvisualsystems.com/Docu...0XR5_IGv10.pdf

---

SERVICE MENU
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6917511

To access push [EDIT], [EDIT], [EDIT], [EDIT] on the remote.
To leave the SM, repeat the access code or turn off the display.

---

TUNING/CALIBRATION

I suggest looking at the Horizontal Gray Ramp test pattern at Title 1, Chapter 103 (also can be found by menu selecting Chapter 7 - Audio & Video Calibration, Video Test Patterns, Gray Scale & Levels, Grey Steps & Ramps, Horizontal Gray Ramp). It should be smooth with no banding or color shifts across the ramp and linear with no compression at either end. It is also a very useful pattern to set the brightness and contrast to maximize dynamic range for best detail. I use the contrast control to get the white end linear and the brightness control to get the black end linear.

---

Incidentally, color and tint controls are *disabled* on the 50XR5 when feeding the panel native rate so color and tint will need to be adjusted via the HDP. Cinema mode is also fixed to "On" and can't be adjusted and the only available picture settings are "normal" and "default".

---

PICTURE & MODE SETTINGS
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6975457

There are 6 separate picture memories. Any and all adjustments are available and appear to stick per memory. This includes the picture mode i.e. Theater 1, normal, bright, as well as the submenu values for white balance and color tune. It also appears that separate white balance submenu settings will stick per color temp setting per memory . The memories will be automatically recalled for the input they are saved for. If you assign more than one memory to an input, it will return to the last memory you had selected for that input. You can still manually select them all as desired and you can reassign them as necessary by doing another save.

---

I've played with the grey scale while looking at the vertical/horizontal grey ramps on AVIA. The smoother the ramp, the less banding you'll see when watching real material as well. Obviously, a pro ISF'er could do it more precisely but I still think it helps. The pedestal is the IRE setting at which you set the black. Typically, it's 7.5 for Video and 0 for PC. However, when using HDMI setting HDMI to "high" in the setup menu takes care of that already so you need to set pedestal to zero for Video. Using component, set pedestal to 7.5 assuming you are using a standard video input.

Look at the vertical and horizontal grey ramps on AVIA and the temp settings above should provide smoother ramps. The best default temperature mode seems to be middle low if you want a quick and dirty setup.

Red Gain (RG), Bias Red (BR), etc
Those are the red, green, and blue gain and bias adjustments found if you
select the color temp in the user menu. These are grey scale adjustments.

---

NEC 50XR5 through HDMI inputs, HDMI set to "high" in setup menu

Contrast 48
Brt 36
Sharp 0
Color 28
Tint 31
Color Temp Mid (at default values, all 40)
Pic mode Theater 1
Gamma 2.2
Pedestal 0
Low tone auto

---

For some reason my brightness is unusually low, the dvd players brightness must have been jacked up or something, but I don't have the remote for it anymore. I think most peoples will be around the 20-30 range.

50 - Contrast
15 - Brightness
28 - Color
28 - Tint
Mid-Low Color Temp
Theatre 1 Pic Mode
Gamma 2.2
Low Tone Auto
Pedestal 0
Gain Red - 26
Gain Green - 22
Gain Blue - 28
Bias Red - 38
Bias Green - 36
Bias Blue - 40

---

I would just bump the contrast and brightness down a bit, switch it to theatre 1 (a little darker) and make sure to ramp the sharpness down really low. I am not really sure why they have it so high from the factory but the sharpness introduced many unwanted artifacts in my opinion. I have mine set at around 3 or 4 (16 is default I think).

---

CPCAT + LISAM Settings

Cutting back red and magenta to 30 in the color tune menu seems to have solved any issues I had with overdone orange/reds and sunburned fleshtones. NCIS was at least watchable last night. It doesn't seem to have negatively effected the more undersaturated shows either.

O.K. Here are current settings for "Bright" picture mode with inclusion of LisaM's color tune adjustments. This is via HDMI with HDMI set to "high" in the setup menu. If you use component, you'll likely need to set pedestal (setup level) to 3.75 to make the brightness settings equivalent.

Contrast 44
Brt 38 (can adjust +/- 2 for taste without altering grey ramp smoothness)
Color 29
Tint 32
Sharp 0 (for HDMI, may vary for taste, may need to adjust for component input)
NR 2 (set to taste, NR can be at expense of fine detail)
Color temp (mid low customization, highlight mid-low, enter, adjust values to below)
*GR46
*GG42
*GB40
*BR40
*BG40
*BB40
Cinema on
Pic Bright
Gamma 2.2
Low tone auto
Setup level pedestal 0 (set to 3.75 for component input)
Color tune (custom, highlight color tune, enter, adjust to below values)
*Red 30
*Green 32
*Blue 32
*Yellow 32
*Magenta 30
*Cyan 32

To save all to memory, highlight selected memory, highlight "set", press enter

-----

Okay, I finally had a chance to mess with the Bright setting you posted cpcat. I do have to say there is a bit deeper blacks with that setting. Definitely close, if not right on, with the Panny level. I did not notice any really "floating" of the blacks yet. cpcat, did you witness the blacks floating, or did you just presume that the Bright setting floats the blacks?

Anyways, below are the settings I've settled on. Cpcat, I think we must either have drastically different lighting and setups, or much different taste in colors. Either way is cool, that's what make it individual preferences. Figured I'd post what I settled on for the Bright setting for anyone who wants to try them out. The below is using HDMI with my HR10-250 and SA8300HD.

Contrast 44
Brightness 32
Sharpness 0
Color 32
Tint 32
NR Off for HD material, will sometimes throw on NR2 for SD
Color Temp Mid-Low
GR 30
GG 31
GB 32
BR 38
BG 36
BB 35
Cinema Mode On
Pic Mode Bright
Gamma 2.2
Low Tone Auto
Setup Level 0%
Color Tune - All Default


---

NATIVE RATE via HDMI

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6910803
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6917691
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6926935

I found that 1:1 mapping was a snap. I was making it too hard. Here are the timings (obtained from NEC secondhand) via Lumagen VisionHDP through HDMI:

VTOT 788 HTOT 1526
VACT 768 HACT 1365
VSYN 4 HSYN 50
VFRN 4 HFRN 51

V freq. 60.00 Hz
H freq. 47.20 Hz

Make sure RGB select in setup menu is set to "auto"
Disable orbiting in PDP saver menu
Set image adjust values all to zero.
That's it. Double check signal info in the menu and it should read 1365 x 768 and memory 18.

V-line and H-line patterns via the Lumagen test patterns are perfect one-pixel rows.

---

I've not seen the PQ of the 5060, but I know it does *not* do native and 1:1 over HDMI. That to me would mean at least the electronics are dissimilar.

---

DCypher's computer/HDMI timings with Nvidia
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7184461

Here's the important note:
Horizontal pixels:
Front-end active is 1368 pixels
back-end active: 1365 pixels

If you don't setup that correctly, it won't sync right!

Hope this helps,
Jeff

Oh yeah... here's a bit more information for you to make things perfect:

go into the NEC's menu and go to the image adjustment:
V-Position: 0
H-Position: +4
V-Height : 0
H-Width: 0

This moves the image 4 pixels to the right without any scaling (fills the entire screen).

EDIT TO ADD THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION FROM BVADER (THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR EFFORTS)

Breakin DVD
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6230381

Actual Link to the Service Menu ( I see it is earlier but not with the Service menu discussion)
http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=148

Setting The Gray Bars
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7161593

Pedestal Settings
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7174931

Contrast Setting Discussion
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7291828

Image Retention Discusiion
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7160815


Quick compare of XM5 vs XR5
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7112448

Some Installed Pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7338720
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...ppuser/7575623
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6970550
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6970550
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post #2 of 148 Old 03-23-2006, 03:35 PM
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Good job Tony and thanks to bvader as well. Now I've got another thread to cruise.
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post #3 of 148 Old 03-29-2006, 07:10 PM
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Anyone have some advice for Component Video and getting better blacks?
All HD content is coming via Xbox 360 TS streaming, Xbox1 or Pioneer DVD via Component Video. The blacks are much more grey than my previous screen LG plasma, I know many have said they are able to get the blacks as dark as on a panasonic , but I haven't had any success.. As soon as I drop the pedestal/setup value to 3.75 or 7.5, I lose so much detail in the blacks.. ie.. the creases in a persons suit just dissappears into the black, losing all shadow and detail. Leaving it at 0 yields the best detail in shadows, and dark information. But the blacks look very grey. Any help for a component video setup would be great.66
Also what are the differences between using normal vs bright settings?
Right now I have it at
48 Con
36 bright
5 sharp
colour - unchanged from default
gamma 2.2
pedestal/setup 3.75
NR 0
pic mod: Normal
Low tone: auto

I'm not too happy with the blacks. I've also tried the same settings with pic mode bright and while everything is more vibrant, the blacks are still grey.
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post #4 of 148 Old 03-29-2006, 07:17 PM
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ppydg68,

You probably just need to turn the brightness down a few notches.

Pedestal, brightness, and contrast all interact to affect blacks and maximum contrast and you'll need to mess around with it to see what reacts best to your setup.
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post #5 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 05:12 AM
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puppydog,

I'd definitely try the settings noted above under "cpcat and LisaM" including the custom white balance and color tune adjustments. Just put them in a memory and save them to try. Pedestal at 3.75 should be about right to make the settings equivalent with component input. You may need to double check your brightness setting with a test pattern such as AVIA black bars pattern. You should just barely see the leftmost bar. You can tweak the brightness +/- 2 from 38 for more or less shadow detail without effecting the grey ramp smoothness.
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post #6 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 07:05 AM
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puppydg, I agree with jvincent...I'd try cranking down the brightness setting to 15-20 or so. When I get my component inputs brightness cranked up to 30 or more, it's way to washed out and the blacks are gray.

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #7 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:03 AM
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Component input will definitely require resetting the brightness lower. Whether doing it through the setup pedestal or through the brightness control, I don't think it really matters but if you do it through the pedestal it's easier to keep the settings equivalent for other inputs especially if you are using HDMI/DVI or plan to. This also makes it easier to calibrate various inputs. For example, if you are calibrating off DVD via component it should be possible to use the same settings for DVI/HDMI as long as you use the setup pedestal to compensate for the component input. Otherwise, it's even more of a guessing game.

Also, some DVD players/STB's will have adjustable black pedestal settings. You should set the DVD player/STB for "video level" if that is the case.
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post #8 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:05 AM
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You could be right cpcat, but my XM5 doesn't have a pedestal setting that y'all are always speaking of...

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #9 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Setup Level = Pedestal. Do you have a Setup Level setting?
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post #10 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky_Mark896 View Post

You could be right cpcat, but my XM5 doesn't have a pedestal setting that y'all are always speaking of...

Good point. In that case, there's no choice but to use the brightness control.
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post #11 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:10 AM
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Tony, nope, no setup level on the xm5 that I can see.

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #12 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You may have posted already (I apologize if you did), but what is your list of available setting options?
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post #13 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:24 AM
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Tony here's a link to my settings:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7302670

Actually a lot of these have changed, but you can get the idea of what's available on the XM5. Heck, here's my current settings:

Contrast 40
Brightness 20
Sharpness 0
Color 30
Tint 32
Picture mode - Bright
NR - off
Color Temp - High
Gamma 1
Low Tone Auto
Color Tune Default
PLE-Auto

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #14 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky_Mark896 View Post

Tony, nope, no setup level on the xm5 that I can see.


It's there, for DVI anyways, it's just hidden pretty well.

Under "Option 2" of the menu system there is a setting for "DVI Set Up".

You need to have the advanced OSM enabled to see "Option 2".
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post #15 of 148 Old 03-30-2006, 08:36 AM
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Ahh, well I'm not using my DVI input yet. Only component.

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #16 of 148 Old 04-06-2006, 06:44 PM
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Thanks to the CBC (good to see my tax dollars at work) I've managed to get what looks to be a pretty good setup.

Here's my configuration and what I ended up with.

Source: SA8300HD PVR connected via HDMI.

Final Settings:
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 12
Sharpness: 16 (default)
Color: 26
Tint: 31
NR: Off
Color Temp: Middle (Defaults)
Cinema Mode: On
Picture Mode: Normal
Gamma: 2.2
Low Tone: 3
Set Up Level: 0
Color Tune (Defaults)

HDMI Setup: Low

A few comments. I ended up using HDMI setup on Low rather than high because as I was setting the brightness and contrast, I found that I had more "range" of settings with it at low. The same was true of Set Up Level. Anything other than 0 restricted the range that I could put on the black level, so 0 it is.

First step was to set Black level using the pluge bars. That was easy. Contrast was next.

Now of course, Brightness and Contrast interact. If I turned the contrast much past 45 it started to raise the black level, so that's pretty much the full dynamic range of the panel. I backed the contrast off it's max level of 45 to get as much dynamic range as possible without getting it super bright. I might increase a little later on.

Next was the Colour. It's worth noting that Contrast and Colour interact. Colour is set by matching the blue bar to the white bar viewed through a blue filter and the higher contrast it set, the higher colour needed to be set.

Once I got Brightness, Contrast, and Colour set Tint was next and was pretty much bang on the default.

I went into the Color Temp and Color Tune sub menus to see if I could get the other colours more balanced, as seen through the green and red filters, and to be honest, the best results were left at default.

I also cycled through Theater1/2, Bright, Normal and it had no effect on the colour balance.

I'm watching Rick Steve's Europe on PBS as I type this and the colours and flesh tones all look really good so far, so I'm going to leave it this way for a while.
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post #17 of 148 Old 04-07-2006, 08:38 AM
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Could anyone list the break-in settings in this nice short thread?

Tom
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post #18 of 148 Old 04-07-2006, 03:12 PM
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Would power conditioning to 50" XR5 through a monster powercenter (HTS1600) make a difference to the picture quality? or would it simply just blow up the power center cause the plasma draws 450W leaving nothing for the rest of the components (receiver, dvd player etc).
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post #19 of 148 Old 04-07-2006, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky_Mark896 View Post

Tony here's a link to my settings:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7302670

Actually a lot of these have changed, but you can get the idea of what's available on the XM5. Heck, here's my current settings:

Contrast 40
Brightness 20
Sharpness 0
Color 30
Tint 32
Picture mode - Bright
NR - off
Color Temp - High
Gamma 1
Low Tone Auto
Color Tune Default
PLE-Auto

My settings for the XM5A - Component Input (DVD)
are:
Contrast 44
Brightness 30
Sharpness 20
Color 28
Tint 32
Picture Mode - Bright
NR - 1
Color Temp - Mid
Gamma 2
Low Tone Auto
Color Tune Default
PLE - Auto
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post #20 of 148 Old 04-07-2006, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haveoneolboy View Post

My settings for the XM5A
are:
Contrast 44
Brightness 20
Sharpness 20
Color 28
Tint 32
Picture Mode - Bright
NR - 1
Color Temp - Mid
Gamma 2
Low Tone Auto
Color Tune Default
PLE - Auto

Those look pretty good. The only changes I prefer are color temp- high, and NR-off.

It's not just a hobby, it's an obsession...
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post #21 of 148 Old 04-09-2006, 12:26 PM
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Slightly modified settings which seem to work with both "normal" and "bright" modes with inclusion of LisaM's color tune adjustments. It is possible that "bright" mode could cause more black shifting which can be bothersome to some. The grey ramp smoothness doesn't seem be effected regardless of mode. IMO, the blacks are slightly darker with "bright" mode. This is via HDMI with HDMI set to "high" in the setup menu. If you use component, you'll likely need to set pedestal (setup level) to 3.75 to make the brightness settings equivalent. The one point increases in contrast/brightness seem to smooth the ramps out further and provide a little better shadow detail. I've also changed to low tone 3 (error diffusion method) based on JVincent's suggestion as it seems to give a more consistently smooth dark background.

Contrast 45
Brt 39 (can adjust +/- 1 for taste without altering grey ramp smoothness)
Color 29
Tint 32
Sharp 0 (for HDMI, may vary for taste, may need to adjust for component input)
NR 2 (set to taste, NR can be at expense of fine detail)
Color temp (mid low customization, highlight mid-low, enter, adjust values to below)
*GR46
*GG42
*GB40
*BR40
*BG40
*BB40
Cinema on
Pic Bright or Normal to taste
Gamma 2.2
Low tone 3
Setup level pedestal 0 (set to 3.75 for component input)
Color tune (custom, highlight color tune, enter, adjust to below values)
*Red 30
*Green 32
*Blue 32
*Yellow 32
*Magenta 30
*Cyan 32

To save all to memory, highlight selected memory, highlight "set", press enter
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post #22 of 148 Old 04-10-2006, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marky_Mark896 View Post

Those look pretty good. The only changes I prefer are color temp- high, and NR-off.


XM5A - Component input
After playing around with the settings this weekend I have adjusted the brightness up to 30 (I edited my settings post above to reflect this change). It gives more shadow detail but still produces good black. I used Avia and THX optimizer for the tweaks. I tried the high color temp but it causes a blue tint and the flesh tones weren't quite right. I can say this display seems like it is getting better the more I watch it.
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post #23 of 148 Old 04-10-2006, 01:17 PM
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Hey all, just got my 42XR4 Friday and loving it so far...I tried out cpcat's and LisaM's settings but they seem to be a little too green. I'm not a videophile or anything, so not real sure the best way to correct it, but even the default settings seemed slightly heavy on the green/yellows to my wife and I. (The picture is still stunning, don't get me wrong!) Any advice on how to adjust? It was the worst with the one of our daughters baby DVDs, but I'm assuming that could be from the DVD itself?

Also, can someone give me a concise explanation of the zoom modes? Is there any setting that will always stretch a 4:3 image, but leave 16:9 images alone? (I thought this was stadium but I could of sworn it was stretching a 16:9 image the other day...)

Last question...the manual said the ferrite core things are for attaching to a remote cable (I think if you use the IR loop)...why? Just curious

Thanks!
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post #24 of 148 Old 04-10-2006, 01:50 PM
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A couple more questions -- not sure if these should be in this thread or the main one -- but here goes:

My wife loves HGTV. In our area we only get it through basic cable (not digital) but PQ is not bad if we put the TV on NR-2 and stadium. Anyway HGTV puts up their logo on the bottom right most of he time, but it is kind of white/somewhat see through. Is this susceptible to IR? Haven't seen any problems yet and stretching the image even more gives poor PQ.

Also, anyone with an NEC and a Harmony 880? I'm setting up out Harmony and wondering if anyone has any tips for working with the 880 (and a SA8300HD for that matter).

Lastly, anyone use a remote booster system like the Hot Link Pro with their NEC? Any interference issues if you mount the IR receiver right on the tv? All our components are in cabinets with glass doors, but the door frames block some of the IR receivers. With a 15 month old at home that LOVES buttons, we keep the doors closed and secured This makes for quite a bit of remote gymnastics as I stretch and contort my body to try to get the signal to the correct component. I'm thinking the Hot Link Pro would simplify things dramatically but I've heard plasmas can interfere with IR signals...

Thanks again!
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post #25 of 148 Old 04-10-2006, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thorsenjon View Post

Hey all, just got my 42XR4 Friday and loving it so far...I tried out cpcat's and LisaM's settings but they seem to be a little too green. I'm not a videophile or anything, so not real sure the best way to correct it, but even the default settings seemed slightly heavy on the green/yellows to my wife and I. (The picture is still stunning, don't get me wrong!) Any advice on how to adjust? It was the worst with the one of our daughters baby DVDs, but I'm assuming that could be from the DVD itself?

Also, can someone give me a concise explanation of the zoom modes? Is there any setting that will always stretch a 4:3 image, but leave 16:9 images alone? (I thought this was stadium but I could of sworn it was stretching a 16:9 image the other day...)

Last question...the manual said the ferrite core things are for attaching to a remote cable (I think if you use the IR loop)...why? Just curious

Thanks!

I would first simply return the color tune settings to all defaults. This will add a little red back in. Then if you need to tweak the tint control towards red a little. Remember that color can vary from show to show.

"anamorphic" is the proper setting for 16:9 images. To stretch a 4:3 image you can use "stadium" which will stretch the sides a little more and leave the center more undistorted. For an SD signal, "anamorphic" will linearly stretch a 4:3 image.

The TV will automatically go to the stretch mode last used and will discriminate between SD and HD signals so you shouldn't have to manually switch it in that case. However, there's no way it can tell if it's a 4:3 HD image so in that case you may have to manually switch to "stadium" or "zoom" to get rid of the pillar bars. For letterboxed 2.35:1 you can use "2.35:1" to get rid of the letterbox or simply watch it that way if you want.

The large ferrite cores go on either end of the power cord. This helps reject RF and probably are included to provide the FCC class B rating. They probably don't matter in most installations.

I can't remember if there were smaller ones in the box, but it seems there might have been. I wouldn't worry about those.
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post #26 of 148 Old 04-11-2006, 12:59 AM
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Hello thorsenjon :
Hot Link Pro is the most plasma friendly/proof Remote repeater and it will enhance the performance of remotes as well.
See this page for plasma LCD noise mitigation...
http://www.hot-link.com/continue_3.html

The only TV Monitors* Hot Link Pro cannot overcome the noise issues with, are the Sharp Aquos 37 inch LCD and the Pioneer 61 inch Plasma. *( that we know of after 13 years)
The Sharp 42" and 45" and the smaller ones under 37" all work with the caveat that the Eye be in the middle on the larger ones as the power supplies for the CCFL lamps emit low frequency RF from both sides. The Eye does not pick up these emissions when merely mounted in the middle, to or bottom, on the back.

Some of the 52 inch LCDs are fairly IR noisy, but usually a place can be found for the Eye that mitigates the noise and still see's the remote. It seems so far that plasma's are less noisy than the LCDs.

Comment culled from Smarthome site...
Works perfectly. I use it with my 42" Panasonic plasma with zero problems - and the "eye" sits right below the monitor! Great product!

At your service,
Marcus, Microsmith Inc.
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post #27 of 148 Old 04-11-2006, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

"anamorphic" is the proper setting for 16:9 images. To stretch a 4:3 image you can use "stadium" which will stretch the sides a little more and leave the center more undistorted. For an SD signal, "anamorphic" will linearly stretch a 4:3 image.

The TV will automatically go to the stretch mode last used and will discriminate between SD and HD signals so you shouldn't have to manually switch it in that case. However, there's no way it can tell if it's a 4:3 HD image so in that case you may have to manually switch to "stadium" or "zoom" to get rid of the pillar bars. For letterboxed 2.35:1 you can use "2.35:1" to get rid of the letterbox or simply watch it that way if you want.

Thanks CPCAT, I think it was CBS HD showing 4:3 that threw me off...so anamorphic should be fine unless it is a HD broadcast in 4:3, in which case I need to use stadium, correct? But will anamorphic = stadium in all other situations or is the anamorphic stretch of a SD signal different than the stadium stretch? And on a 16:9 HD image will anamorphic and stadium give the same result? (I'll have to play with the tv when I get home from work

Also, we're getting more used to the colors...I think part of the problem was that we had been watching such a poor TV for so long that we got used to it's excessive red!
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post #28 of 148 Old 04-11-2006, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsenjon View Post

Thanks CPCAT, I think it was CBS HD showing 4:3 that threw me off...so anamorphic should be fine unless it is a HD broadcast in 4:3, in which case I need to use stadium, correct? But will anamorphic = stadium in all other situations or is the anamorphic stretch of a SD signal different than the stadium stretch? And on a 16:9 HD image will anamorphic and stadium give the same result? (I'll have to play with the tv when I get home from work

Also, we're getting more used to the colors...I think part of the problem was that we had been watching such a poor TV for so long that we got used to it's excessive red!

Anamorphic will linearly stretch a 4:3 SD image to fill the screen. For an HD image, it will pass it through undistorted. If the HD channel happens to be showing a 4:3 image, it will stay 4:3.

Stadium will non-linearly stretch the image so that the sides will be stretched more than the center of the image. It also zooms and crops the image slightly. This applies to both HD and SD images. If you are watching a 16:9 HD image, use anamorphic not stadium. Stadium is designed for stretching a 4:3 image to fill the screen while leaving the center of the image relatively undistorted and can be used for either SD or HD sources.
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post #29 of 148 Old 04-12-2006, 07:16 AM
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Just wanted to share a tip for setting brightness that I used last night. I don't know why I didn't do this before, since it's completely obvious.

When you're calibrating for black level, you want black to be, well, black. I have always done my calibrating from my sitting position which is generally fine. It dawned on me last night that since the electronics in the panel are dithering the individual sub-pixels at the low brightness settings, it should be possible to see this effect on the screen.

Looking at the black bars from 6" away you can clearly see the dithering effect decrease as you decrease the brightness. My particular calibration disk shows below black and as you start turning down the brightness the dithering effects disappear from the below black bars in sequence and eventually the "Reference black" bar becomes completely quiet, i.e. no dithering effect.

The end result, reference black, i.e. digital RGB = 16, is now completely "off" for my display. Give it a shot.
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post #30 of 148 Old 04-12-2006, 12:15 PM
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Yep, exactly what I've found. This is also the level at which decreasing the brightness any further has no benefit. The blacks get no darker, you just lose shadow detail.
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