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post #1501 of 1650 Old 02-11-2012, 06:39 PM
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Alright, I am confident that I can remove and replace the capacitors but have absolutely no idea which ones to buy. I looked at the Digikey website and understand that these are 3300uf, but do not see anything that lists them as 8059 or 8060. Can you toss me another bone? I dont have a clue about electrical components.
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post #1502 of 1650 Old 02-11-2012, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgoo656 View Post

We are having the same "no video but ambilights and sound work" issue as iontyre (back on pages 40-44) with our 50PF9631D/37. We have read through all of the posts on this and the 9631 thread. Nobody has resolved this issue other that iontyre (he replaced the entire PS board @ $400). We've even spent countless hours of 9631 no screen/no video/etc. searches. Anybody have any suggestions on what components on the PS board to inspect/test/troubleshoot/replace?

You could try and get another PS Board and on Craigslist or other online parts places you should be able to get one for less than $100. Might be worth a look but maybe Googling the problem or "9631/PSB problem" will show which specific part (capacitors ? Fuse?) are the problem.

Are you up-to-date on software ?

Can you get a picture from side inputs (USB stick) or other input sources (Blu-Ray, DVD, etc) ???
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post #1503 of 1650 Old 02-11-2012, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

We have got to the point of turning it on once each day and then leaving it on until late evening. When I initially turn it on, the green light stays on for about ten seconds and then it goes off and the reds start. I unplug it and wait for it to discharge and then plug it back in and it comes on withn ten seconds. I have done this probably 15 times so far.

The problem is new and you haven't had to wait too long -- yet. Good idea to get the capacitors.

BTW, don't forget to check your hours and reset the PDP hours if it is stuck at 4,000.

Quote:
I plan to order the capacitors and have them ready when it gets to be more of a hassle. Hopefullly, I will be able to record the process and post here. The video that is shown earlier in this thread is very helpful, even with the sound and focus problems. I have a feeling that everyone will run across this at some point. Thanks to everyone who has posted about this problem. All comments are very helpful.

No need to record the process, we have enough pics here -- and video. If you want to, great, but just concentrate on getting your 9631 fixed and report back. Good Luck !

BTW, if you turn the TV off for less than an hour or so you will probably be able to turn it on regularly -- if the caps/TV are still 'hot' you won't need to do any plug/unplugs. I think the usual limit for me was 45-60 minutes, maybe 90 minutes max (if the TV had been running along time).
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post #1504 of 1650 Old 02-11-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

Alright, I am confident that I can remove and replace the capacitors but have absolutely no idea which ones to buy. I looked at the Digikey website and understand that these are 3300uf, but do not see anything that lists them as 8059 or 8060. Can you toss me another bone? I dont have a clue about electrical components.

Doug, the Parts Number is:

P/N 493-1754-ND

3300 UF 10v ELECT PW RADIAL


8059/60 are the spaces on the circuit board that they are located on, nothing to do with the type of capacitor or the Digikey ordering info.
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post #1505 of 1650 Old 02-12-2012, 04:35 PM
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Now I understand! The two capacitors are identical and they go in slots 8059 and 8060. Sorry I am so dense. I can rebuild a classic car engine, but have never done anything much with electronics repair. Thank you for all the help! I will get these and let you all know how it goes. However, I will not do this until I am unable to get the set to come alive. Probably a few months away.
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post #1506 of 1650 Old 02-12-2012, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

Now I understand! The two capacitors are identical and they go in slots 8059 and 8060. Sorry I am so dense. I can rebuild a classic car engine, but have never done anything much with electronics repair. Thank you for all the help! I will get these and let you all know how it goes. However, I will not do this until I am unable to get the set to come alive. Probably a few months away.

If you are leaving the TV on for long hours of the day, it's not only costing you $$$ but its shortening the TV life. Its one thing to leave it on for a 1/2 hour or even an hour if you are gonna run an errand or go out for lunch/dinner and the plug/unplug is getting lengthy (if the TV stays 'hot' you might be able to turn it on normally anyway or with very few plug/unplugs).

I wouldn't leave it on for hours at a time unattended. Better to do plug/unplug or fix the capacitors if you don't want to spend more than 3-4 minutes doing plug/unplug.

Remember: A 'cold' TV will require longer and longer plug/unplug time. But if you turn off the 9631 after it's been used you can (probably) get it turned on right away in the normal fashion.

The 1st time you turn the TV on each day (presumably when you wake up or when you come home from work) will be the best indicator of how long it's taking plug/unplug to turn the TV on, since the 'cold' condition is basically the same.

As I indicated in my posts in September 2010, I think I was able to go almost 3 months before the plug/unplug time was starting to approach 15-20 minutes. When you get home a few minutes before 9 PM for a show, or when you rush in to catch the bottom of the 9th inning of a ballgame, those longer plug/unplug times can be the straw that break the camels back and get you to do the capacitor switch. Plus, it's a PITA to bend over for 10-15 minutes doing plug/unplug near the side of the 9631.

Honestly, if I could have gotten my friend over sooner, knowing how easy the replacement was, I probably would have done the switch once the time for plug/unplug exceeded 5 minutes (after a month probably).
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post #1507 of 1650 Old 02-13-2012, 05:05 PM
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Plug-Unplug Method Limit: OK, I went back over my posts here from 2010. I first got the 7-blinking LED at the end of May but it was only about a week later (June 7th) that I could not longer get the TV on with normal POWER-ON.

Then on September 7th I said I was calling someone because it took me almost 30 minutes to get the TV on from a cold start.

So it appears it took 3 months (90 days) for me to reach my limit...taking into account my 7-day vacation and a few other days when I was out of the house....you are probably talking about 80 days of doing plug-unplug...rare that I would need to do plug/unplug 3 times, at most usually 2, some days only 1 (remember, even if I shut off the TV for lunch/dinner it would turn on NORMALLY so long as I came back in 45-75 minutes). I don't know if turning the TV on normally when it was still 'hot' drained the capacitors the same as a PLUG/UNPLUG -- I'd lean towards "YES." BTW, remember that prolonged PLUG/UNPLUG will artificially increase the 1st Hour Counter in the Service Menu -- every time you get a failed 'click' that doesn't turn the TV ON, it adds 1/2 hour to that 1st number (but not the lower 2nd one).

Anyway.....I now estimate that I probably got about 100 successful plug/unplugs, plus or minus 15 attempts.

FWIW, I also had the same problem in my bedroom 42" TV but that TV was used very rarely. I could still get it on 10 months later because I probably only turned it on maybe 40-50 times in that time.
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post #1508 of 1650 Old 02-13-2012, 11:59 PM
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First of all, thanks to all the folks that have posted information on the problems of the Philips 9631 Ambilight televisions; there is some truly selfless stuff on here. Hopefully, no one has relayed a solution to my problem because after about 5 straight research hours online, I simply cannot peruse these troubleshooting threads anymore.

That being said, I relay my tale...

I bought the Philips 50pf9631D/37 plasma with ambilight from a Sears in around August of 2006. It worked fine for a couple of years until late 2010, when I started to get the 7 blinking light error code. I performed the Unplug/Plug trick for months, no telling how many times, and it got progressively worse. It got to the point where I was doing the damn trick forever. Now, I did some research and came to the conclusion that it was the aforementioned capacitors 3300uF 10V 105C located in the ...59 and ...60 slots.

I have some soldering experience, having been a tech in the Navy, so I decide to take on the project. I put the tv in position to finally receive some much needed maintenance. For some reason ( I had the set on an entertainment center when I did the trick) when I moved the tv I decided to give the old girl another try just to see if it duplicated the discrepancy, as anyone who has troubleshot electronics knows can be a huge PITA. What do you know? No 7 blinking lights. As soon as I plug the set in, I get a solid AMBER light and nothing happens. No screen, Ambilight, audio or anything. Dead. I don't have to try to turn it on, only plug it in and the AMBER light comes on NOT RED. Also, it is steady. The audible clicks that were so common before have disappeared. I have googled and everything else you can think of trying to find a reference to it and nada.

Now, I have taken the panel off and replaced the same capacitors which everyone else who has had this problem has done with great success. They were indeed blown, visible bubbling on the top. Alas, this did not solve my problem. I still have the steady amber light upon plugging the set in. It is surely possible, indeed probable, that I relied on the unplug/plug trick for too long. What I don't know is what damage I could have possibly done save perhaps blown a fuse, another of the suggestion/solutions found on this very thread. However, if my problem was the fuse in question which was alluded to earlier (the one right after the power wire connection on the PS) I believe that the LED light would not receive power because fuses sever current.

I have attempted to look at the schematics and block diagrams of the chassis for this tv, the only problem is they are grainy and illegible on the pages that I need (error code page, and diagram of the power supply, for example). The audible click or lack thereof would seem to be a huge clue as to what is wrong, being that the click was there with the 7 light error message and that it is notably absent upon plug-in now.

Summing up:

1) 50 inch plasma 9631 model. Had 7 blinking RED lights. Performed Unplug/Plug on it for months, getting to point of futility.

2) In Troubleshooting mode, attempted to duplicate...no RED lights....steady AMBER light upon plugging tv into wall recepticle. No audible click.

3) Replaced capacitors C8059 and 60. No joy. No change in problem. AMBER light remains. Performed inspection of rest of visible caps and they seem good to go. I stress 'seem'.

4) There is no reference on the internet to this problem as far as I am aware. Would really love to know how the AMBER LED light gets powered up, as that would let me know if there is something as simple as another capacitor blown or perhaps an electro-magnetic relay that is stuck. Any help with what the steady Amber light means would be a huge help.

5) I believe the problem to be prior to the failing capacitors in the circuit, however, my lack of television knowledge combined with my lack of an adequate diagram hurts my chances of finding out what exactly is messed up without testing each and every component with a multimeter. Needless to say, I'm trying to avoid that.

Thanks for any and all help with this matter. I'd love to be able to get this tv working with just a little willpower and determination and not spend more money than it would take to just buy a new one.

If you got through this whole post, you are a trooper and deserve my respect and thanks.
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post #1509 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 11:28 AM
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Jbrooks, welcome aboard and don't despair. Let's see if we can figure out a few things.

(1) Can you get into the Service Menu ? If so, check the ERROR CODE and see if there's a message/code/number.

(2) What did you mean by "Troubleshooting Mode" ??? Are you just referring to when you were about to replace the caps, or are you referring to a special state that the TV was in ? I'm not aware of any "T-S" mode.

(3) 8059 & 8060 are not the caps, they are the locations. I trust you ordered Digikey P/N 493-1754-ND (3300 UF 10v ELECT PW RADIAL) caps ? These are the best ones.

(4) Any other visibly broken caps ???

(5) Did you disturb anything when doing the cap replacement ? Did you trim the excess antenae ? Did you make sure not to touch anything else, particularly a problematic fuse that someone here replaced (go back a few pages) and which solved a 9631 power problem ?

(6) AMBER LED -- you mean a brownish color ? Not GREEN, not RED ???

Plug/Unplug for a long time is not your problem; all it does is build up a charge. It can only damage the problem capacitors and your back from bending over to do the stupid routine.

Have you tried another power cord ?

Have you tried plugging in to another outlet ?

Can you get any picture from other inputs or from the side (SD Card, UBS stick, etc).

Report back ASAP.
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post #1510 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 11:32 AM
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I want to be clear on this part of your post:

Quote:


For some reason ( I had the set on an entertainment center when I did the trick) when I moved the tv I decided to give the old girl another try just to see if it duplicated the discrepancy, as anyone who has troubleshot electronics knows can be a huge PITA. What do you know? No 7 blinking lights. As soon as I plug the set in, I get a solid AMBER light and nothing happens.

So right before the moving of the TV, plug-unplug was working, right ?

It gets to be too long and you decide to do the cap replacement, right ?

You move the TV (to where ????) to where you want to do the replacement and while it is moved you try to power it up (TV is on side or standing up but not where you used to watch TV, right ?) and plug it in (to a new outlet ?) and instead of the Green LED and then the 7-blinking REDs.....all you get is a solid Amber color in the LED in the lower right -- IS THIS RIGHT ?????
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post #1511 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 02:29 PM
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Thanks Phanatic for your interest.

Troubleshooting mode: me starting the process of fixing the television. I am well aware of the ins and outs of capacitor replacement. Polarities were correct and "antennae" snipped. I went directly from the specs on the capacitors which were there, although in retrospect that was probably a bad idea. I should have opted for the larger size.

I moved the television closer to where I would do the actual work. I did, in fact, get the tv to work on one occasion when I had just moved the tv and I had company that wanted to watch a show. I performed the unplug-plug trick for a while and it worked and we were able to watch the show. That was the last time it worked. I had planned on troubleshooting the problem soon thereafter. The next time I plugged in the tv, the LED on the bottom right while facing the front of the screen IMMEDIATELY turned ORANGE. Not RED.

Having spent hours on end plugging and unplugging the tv, there is definitely a difference between the RED that blinks the failure code and this ORANGE or AMBER color. I have tried the diagnostics code with the remote, but the screen is blank. Like I said, there is no audible clicking noise that occurred with the plugging and unplugging method.

The light is a steady orange that occurs upon plugging the cord into the outlet. It does not matter which outlet, although I have not changed the power cord. I would assume that if the cord were damaged, that it would not send power to the unit that lights the orange light upon plugging it in; but I could certainly be wrong about that. I'll keep that possibility in mind.

Thanks for the assistance. I have confidence that I'll figure this out somehow.
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post #1512 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrooks0122 View Post

Troubleshooting mode: me starting the process of fixing the television. I am well aware of the ins and outs of capacitor replacement. Polarities were correct and "antennae" snipped. I went directly from the specs on the capacitors which were there, although in retrospect that was probably a bad idea. I should have opted for the larger size.

No, marginal benefit.....7,000 vs. 8,000 hours....least of our problems. It buys you a few more months of TV usage, that's it. Always best to stay with original specs, IMO.

Quote:


I moved the television closer to where I would do the actual work. I did, in fact, get the tv to work on one occasion when I had just moved the tv and I had company that wanted to watch a show. I performed the unplug-plug trick for a while and it worked and we were able to watch the show. That was the last time it worked. I had planned on troubleshooting the problem soon thereafter. The next time I plugged in the tv, the LED on the bottom right while facing the front of the screen IMMEDIATELY turned ORANGE. Not RED.

OK, gotcha.....there is a Philips Service Technicians Manual PDF (or link to a PDF) somewhere after Page 30 on this thread...I would download that. I will see if I have it already and post it here if I do. Might have the specific problem diagnosed for AMBER LED.

Quote:


Having spent hours on end plugging and unplugging the tv, there is definitely a difference between the RED that blinks the failure code and this ORANGE or AMBER color. I have tried the diagnostics code with the remote, but the screen is blank. Like I said, there is no audible clicking noise that occurred with the plugging and unplugging method.

I may have gotten this AMBER color when I got a weird blinking pattern, but not sure. But it disappeared when I reset everything I believe. Reminded me of a 1-time 'handoff' issue you sometimes see with cables.

So you can't get even a blank screen, so no Service Menu ? Nothing from other inputs, etc ? It does appear that this AMBER LED is telling you something important, gonna look around.
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post #1513 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 08:19 PM
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Having talked to a tv guy, he says he's positive that it is the power supply board. I would think that it would have to be, considering the role that those two capacitors play in the tv's operation. Plus, that's where they are. Sending juice to those busted capacitors over and over again might have heated them to the point of affecting something else in the vicinity on the board. Conceivably, I could replace everything within distance of those parts. The power supply board, however, can be found on the internet for around $120 new. Think I'm gonna go that route as it appears the most efficient; have to think about how much I would want to get paid to essentially build half of the power supply myself and how much time it would take. Considering this was over a $2000 tv when I bought it, well worth it to get the board and add life to this awesome television. It has been a good television save this little defect. Movies and sports look amazing on this screen with the ambilight on. Thanks for the help PhilipsPhanatic! Oh, by the way, the Part Number for the entire power supply board for the Philips Plasma Model Number 50pf9631d/37 is 996500042147.

I'll let you know how it all works out.
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post #1514 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrooks0122 View Post

Having talked to a tv guy, he says he's positive that it is the power supply board. I would think that it would have to be, considering the role that those two capacitors play in the tv's operation. Plus, that's where they are. Sending juice to those busted capacitors over and over again might have heated them to the point of affecting something else in the vicinity on the board.

The problem capacitors serve as 'buffers' as I understand it so you did NOT do any damage to them. As I said, I used mine for 3 months and at the end was doing plug/unplug without success for over 45 minutes. If I didn't damage my set, I doubt you did, either.

Quote:


Conceivably, I could replace everything within distance of those parts. The power supply board, however, can be found on the internet for around $120 new.

Don't buy it yet. Let's check the Service Manual, I have a few requests in for the PDF.
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post #1515 of 1650 Old 02-14-2012, 09:14 PM
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The audio stinks, but he mentions a few key things to look for if the TV is getting power, check out the first 90 seconds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsJSzYVUWVA

This guy shows the cap replacement but he has a website that you might e-mail him about your problem, maybe he can sell you another part or fuse that is causing the problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAiPOxIz-c
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post #1516 of 1650 Old 02-19-2012, 09:22 AM
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I opened this dog yesterday, removed the board, replaced the two capacitors and closed it back up. Works perfectly.. Total cost... $4.71 for the caps which included shipping from DigiKey. Thank you all for the video, advice and guidance.
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post #1517 of 1650 Old 02-20-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Good post, Cheese.....someone else posted better pics, mine were blury, I believe the numbers were 8059 and 8060. They will be evident from the 'blown' black goo coming out of the tops of the two 3300 UF caps.


Thought I'd mention mine didn't have any goo or bulge. I replace those two caps and TV working fine for a long time now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

We have got to the point of turning it on once each day and then leaving it on until late evening. When I initially turn it on, the green light stays on for about ten seconds and then it goes off and the reds start. I unplug it and wait for it to discharge and then plug it back in and it comes on withn ten seconds. I have done this probably 15 times so far.

This happens to me about every three months. I attribute it to ????. As with you, a simple unplug and replug gets the job done.
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post #1518 of 1650 Old 02-20-2012, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

I opened this dog yesterday, removed the board, replaced the two capacitors and closed it back up. Works perfectly.. Total cost... $4.71 for the caps which included shipping from DigiKey. Thank you all for the video, advice and guidance.

Awesome, Doug ! Congrats !!!

BTW, how many hours did you have on the TV (the 2 numbers in the Service Menu) -- don't forget to go into the SM and change the 2nd PDP counter to "0000" when it gets stuck at 4,000.

Glad it went smoothly, if we can diagnose the other problems with a change of just the problem caps or fuses, we'd be in nirvana.
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post #1519 of 1650 Old 02-20-2012, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by carpenter940 View Post

Thought I'd mention mine didn't have any goo or bulge. I replace those two caps and TV working fine for a long time now.

Did you have the 7-blinking LEDs ? It's possible the caps had only a slight bulge and maybe you couldn't tell. Or maybe they 'went' without any visible distortion or leakage.


Quote:


This happens to me about every three months. I attribute it to ????. As with you, a simple unplug and replug gets the job done.

If you replaced the caps, this should not happen EVER. Doesn't make sense that it would happen this infrequently; either 7-BLINKING LEDs is there or it isn't. On my 50" 9631 it happened once, then was fine...then happened all the time about a week later. But the delay between the 1st time you get it and when it becomes a persistent problem should be days, a week or two tops, and not something every 3 months. Could be 'dirty' electricity or a handoff issue somewhere (cable STB, cables, HDMI, etc).

Worst case, I guess if a single PLUG/UNPLUG is needed every 3 months, that's not much of a problem. I'd sign up for that if it gave me a few more years of life on my 9631 !!!
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post #1520 of 1650 Old 02-20-2012, 03:41 PM
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Not sure. I have looked through all of the menu pieces and am unable to find the counter you refer to. Can you let me know how to get there?
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post #1521 of 1650 Old 02-20-2012, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchallenger View Post

Not sure. I have looked through all of the menu pieces and am unable to find the counter you refer to. Can you let me know how to get there?

Sure.....use the Philips Remote and hit the following numbers CLEARLY:

"0.....6....2....5....9.....6.......INFO"

NOTE: The "6" will not show up in the blue Philips type on the TV screen....as long as you see "06259" hit the "6" clearly and then the "INFO" button.....you will see the WARNING sign and then hit the RED BUTTON to enter the Service Menu.

DO NOT DO ANYTHING IN THE SERVICE MENU but scroll....the 1st number is the higher count, includes 1/2 hour for each ON/OFF that the TV performs....the lower number (scroll down) is actual PDP hours. That's the one that gets stuck at 4,000 hours.
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post #1522 of 1650 Old 03-06-2012, 05:19 PM
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Well fellows I am attempting the 50pf9631D/37 with a reported 6 blinks. This one unfortunately has the odd or little known Samsung version of the Power Supply, LJ44-00125A / 996500042147 that does not have the common 2 replacement caps.
According to the fault code its the 5volt line for 6 blinks. So far I have found 2 bad caps on the 5 volt sw line and also a couple others.
IC 8028 cold solder joint.
C8028 bad cap
C8046 and C8047 Bad, these are on that 5v sw line.. 5 Caps in ToTaL might be on to something here.
Will report back on findings
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post #1523 of 1650 Old 03-06-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by d_cool View Post

Well fellows I am attempting the 50pf9631D/37 with a reported 6 blinks. This one unfortunately has the odd or little known Samsung version of the Power Supply, LJ44-00125A / 996500042147 that does not have the common 2 replacement caps. According to the fault code its the 5volt line for 6 blinks. So far I have found 2 bad caps on the 5 volt sw line and also a couple others.IC 8028 cold solder joint.C8028 bad capC8046 and C8047 Bad, these are on that 5v sw line.. 5 Caps in ToTaL might be on to something here.
Will report back on findings

Where did you find these solutions to your 6-3 BLINKING problem ? The Technicians/Service Manual ?

So it's this Samsung circuit board that necessitates a different approach....others who had the 6-3 BLINK problem said they fixed it with the 3300 10v cap replacements but you are doing more work than that.

Report back, for sure, and Good Luck !
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post #1524 of 1650 Old 03-06-2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hellokitbills View Post

You're pretty much right on the flash memory drives. You can use the smallest size available. Just remember, flash memory/drives can be used for other purposes, so if you have a need for any other purpose, get the size that fits the other need. If you have a digital camera, you probably have flash memory for that and you would only need a reader/writer.

Hellokit, are you talking about updating software ? Very few of us do that since there hasn't been an update in years but you are right on using the smaller size since tying up a huge gigabyte UBS for 20 megs of updates isn't worth it.
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post #1525 of 1650 Old 03-17-2012, 01:36 PM
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Where did you find these solutions to your 6-3 BLINKING problem ? The Technicians/Service Manual ?

So it's this Samsung circuit board that necessitates a different approach....others who had the 6-3 BLINK problem said they fixed it with the 3300 10v cap replacements but you are doing more work than that.

Report back, for sure, and Good Luck !

The solution for the 6 blinks is in the manual however, it can be found on the "error code chart" uploaded by Steven earlier. I have re-attached it for reference; hope he does not mind.
If you look at the chart locate the number 6 (stands for 6 blinks) in the left hand column: across to the right of which it states the problem area as the 5v supply. I basically looked that circuit up and using the manual and silk screen on the board for reference - plus one hidden bulger underneath the heat sink which coincidentally fed the input side of the 5volt regulator circuit..

The 680Uf cap was the feeder and what was bulged. - I am a techie so i hope I am not only right but clear. Three of the caps were the filter stage for the 5vsw. The other two while not really needed where on the 5v stb which we knew was working if not we could not hit power and get a response (in a nut shell).

Yes, this board entails a different approach from the norm. But it should be quite as easy to fix as the other boards, of course that's with the assumption that I have provided enough details in my post and the board has the same problem. Please let me know if more details are needed. Unfortunately I did not take any photos... However, I have attached a like photo from the bay.

Anyway, fellows that was the fix which has eluded everyone; minus the typos of course.lol

Phew.
LL
LL
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post #1526 of 1650 Old 03-17-2012, 04:08 PM
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The solution for the 6 blinks is in the manual however, it can be found on the "error code chart" uploaded by Steven earlier. I have re-attached it for reference; hope he does not mind.
If you look at the chart locate the number 6 (stands for 6 blinks) in the left hand column:

Got it...but the other numbers down the line can't stand for blinks, can they ? 63 blinks at the bottom ?

Quote:


across to the right of which it states the problem area as the 5v supply. I basically looked that circuit up and using the manual and silk screen on the board for reference - plus one hidden bulger underneath the heat sink which coincidentally fed the input side of the 5volt regulator circuit..The 680Uf cap was the feeder and what was bulged. - I am a techie so i hope I am not only right but clear. Three of the caps were the filter stage for the 5vsw. The other two while not really needed where on the 5v stb which we knew was working if not we could not hit power and get a response (in a nut shell). Yes, this board entails a different approach from the norm. But it should be quite as easy to fix as the other boards, of course that's with the assumption that I have provided enough details in my post and the board has the same problem. Please let me know if more details are needed. Unfortunately I did not take any photos... However, I have attached a like photo from the bay. Anyway, fellows that was the fix which has eluded everyone; minus the typos of course.lol Phew.

Thanks for the Code Key and the shot of the Power Board....so bottom line, replacing the 680 UF capacitor is the key, right ?? You replaced which capacitors in total ?
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post #1527 of 1650 Old 03-17-2012, 04:44 PM
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Quick Help needed - Have a 42" Philips with recently replaced buffer boards that failed - that fix was pretty easy.

Now however, with the TV back up in a new spot, I have had it fail with the 6 red LED blinks. It failed while on with a light pop and some cap smell - the smell is still there a bit now.

I took it apart and have the power supply board now out of the unit. The PC Board is a LJ44-00101C version.

I powered it up to try to find any hot caps and CAP C8019 which is a small green 100uf 35v cap is slightly bulged and it was hot when powered up...

I would be fine replacing the 2 caps that normally fail at the same time as C8019 which is the only one that is bad. The 3300uF Caps (C8059, C8060) look fine.

Any advice would be welcome! Thanks
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post #1528 of 1650 Old 03-17-2012, 10:35 PM
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Quick Help needed - Have a 42" Philips with recently replaced buffer boards that failed - that fix was pretty easy. Now however, with the TV back up in a new spot, I have had it fail with the 6 red LED blinks. It failed while on with a light pop and some cap smell - the smell is still there a bit now. I took it apart and have the power supply board now out of the unit. The PC Board is a LJ44-00101C version.I powered it up to try to find any hot caps and CAP C8019 which is a small green 100uf 35v cap is slightly bulged and it was hot when powered up...I would be fine replacing the 2 caps that normally fail at the same time as C8019 which is the only one that is bad. The 3300uF Caps (C8059, C8060) look fine.Any advice would be welcome! Thanks

Keep it simple...just replace whatever you think went bad. If you have replacement caps for other parts, keep them aside until the originals go.

Q. Why did you replace the entire buffer board ?

Q. Did the caps fail right after you replaced the buffer board or had it been working a while ?
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post #1529 of 1650 Old 03-18-2012, 10:48 AM
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I replaced the buffer board due to failing IC's, my picture failed with bands across it - my TV had the older style IC's which were apparently prone to failure.

The newer buffer boards work great - at least while the power supply worked...

I repaired the TV while waiting to move into a new place - once moved in I have used the TV for only a few hours. I don't think the buffer boards have anything to do with the new failure of the Power Supply Board as they are downstream.

I do think I won't put too much more into the TV - I bought it as a Refurb Costco unit directly from Philips years ago. It isn't worth spending any more on it really - a few caps, which I can easily replace I don't mind, but I won't be getting any new boards again for it.
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post #1530 of 1650 Old 03-18-2012, 11:21 AM
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I replaced the buffer board due to failing IC's, my picture failed with bands across it - my TV had the older style IC's which were apparently prone to failure.The newer buffer boards work great - at least while the power supply worked...I repaired the TV while waiting to move into a new place - once moved in I have used the TV for only a few hours. I don't think the buffer boards have anything to do with the new failure of the Power Supply Board as they are downstream.I do think I won't put too much more into the TV - I bought it as a Refurb Costco unit directly from Philips years ago. It isn't worth spending any more on it really - a few caps, which I can easily replace I don't mind, but I won't be getting any new boards again for it.

Yeah, getting new circuit boards is tougher and more expensive than just replacing caps. Where'd you find them anyway ?

The whole reason for extending these TV's is because of the Ambilight feature. I can't justify going out and getting a used one like I did 2 1/2 years ago because then the 9631's technology was only 2-3 years old back then. Now it's 6 years old and while the picture is still acceptable, the newer TV's are (1) much sharper picture, esp. on sports (2) thinner (3) lighter (4) better-built (though I got lucky with my two 9631's).

I still can't believe that Funai can't modify Philips high-end European or British models to sell here. They have to know there's a market for the Ambilight feature.

Guess my next TV will be a state-of-the-art with that $60 LED backlighting kit.
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