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post #1561 of 1650 Old 04-26-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feyizu View Post

Hii dears...I've ordered the two caps (493-1754-ND)to digikey however I 've cancelled because of transportation cost..(They claimed US$ 75 for transportaion)
Now I will look for in local markets and found already but there are some difference between digikey's and mine..(Brand name is Panasonic EEUFFM1A332 and major specifications are same)
1) Digikey cap is PW series, mine is FM
2) Digikey cap's Ripple current is 1.95 A, mine is 3190 mA
3) Dİgikey cap's Impedance is 30 mOhm, mine is 0.015 ohm

That are the differences and taken from their spec. list..I dont know anything about electronics,,please tel me can I use those caps instead of digikey's?

Wait a second, are you shipping overseas ? Don't ship 1st class...just ship 3rd Class, should cost you no more than $10. The package is less than 1 pound (1/2 kilo).
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post #1562 of 1650 Old 04-27-2012, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Wait a second, are you shipping overseas ? Don't ship 1st class...just ship 3rd Class, should cost you no more than $10. The package is less than 1 pound (1/2 kilo).

Yes it will overseas shipping..both Fedex and UBS claim $75 for shipping cost to Turkey. See attached picture
Anyway I've found the caps in local market already, just I have to sure about the equivalence of caps.Caps' price is little bit higher than Digikeys but there is no transportation cost.
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post #1563 of 1650 Old 04-27-2012, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feyizu View Post

Yes it will overseas shipping..both Fedex and UBS claim $75 for shipping cost to Turkey. See attached picture
Anyway I've found the caps in local market already, just I have to sure about the equivalence of caps.Caps' price is little bit higher than Digikeys but there is no transportation cost.

That's ridiculous.....I can't believe a tiny package costs that much...it's like a letter-pouch, a fat envelope. If someone mailed them to you from the states probably alot less. I think they are trying to rip you off.

Keep us posted if you can't find good caps overseas. If you knew someone in the States have them order them from Digikey and then mail them to you. I can't believe it costs more than $10 to ship it there, $20 tops.

Here's some dialogue on the subject:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...7051157AAaap1K
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post #1564 of 1650 Old 04-28-2012, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

That's ridiculous.....I can't believe a tiny package costs that much...it's like a letter-pouch, a fat envelope. If someone mailed them to you from the states probably alot less. I think they are trying to rip you off.

Keep us posted if you can't find good caps overseas. If you knew someone in the States have them order them from Digikey and then mail them to you. I can't believe it costs more than $10 to ship it there, $20 tops.

Here's some dialogue on the subject:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...7051157AAaap1K

You are right..it is good idea for cost down but unfortunately I have no friends in States to send caps to me.
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post #1565 of 1650 Old 05-02-2012, 01:31 PM
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Black Screen Problem: Getting an intermittent black-screen a few times a day.....usually last minutes and then will fix itself. Turning the 9631 ON/OFF will sometimes but not always solve the problem; changing channels does NOT, turning off the cable STB does not. So it appears to be a 9631-specific problem.

On-Screen Menu is not visible either and if I could see SOURCE and goto the Blu-Ray I doubt it would show either. Was able to switch to recorded DVR program and TV stayed black. Problem seems to stay for 5-15 minutes but seems to be happening more frequently (1-3 times a day from once every few days when it first happened a few weeks ago).

Sound is fine....in fact, as I have my back to the TV while on my PC doing work, it goes dark for minutes or longer before I turn around and see if turning off. So far, has not happened when watching something important like a sporting event but I wonder if this will increase.

Software is up-to-date so isn't BSOD.

Will check our posts in this thread to see if others had it but any solutions appreciated.
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post #1566 of 1650 Old 05-02-2012, 01:48 PM
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I have BJ24U-1.9.0.0_03161 is the software version on my 50" 9631

The SBY PROC version is 001.008.001..014

Production Code is YA1B0625010455

In the Service Menu there is a RESET ERROR BUFFER option (though I have no ERRORS showing) and the SW MAINTENANCE option has a SW EVENTS with a reboot test as well as a HW EVENTS. Not sure anybody has every mentioned those here.

This problem seems very similar to BSOD but I am sure my software is up-to-date and haven't had the problem after 2 1/2 years and 10,000 hours.
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post #1567 of 1650 Old 05-02-2012, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Black Screen Problem: Getting an intermittent black-screen a few times a day.....usually last minutes and then will fix itself. Turning the 9631 ON/OFF will sometimes but not always solve the problem; changing channels does NOT, turning off the cable STB does not. So it appears to be a 9631-specific problem.

On-Screen Menu is not visible either and if I could see SOURCE and goto the Blu-Ray I doubt it would show either. Was able to switch to recorded DVR program and TV stayed black. Problem seems to stay for 5-15 minutes but seems to be happening more frequently (1-3 times a day from once every few days when it first happened a few weeks ago).

Sound is fine....in fact, as I have my back to the TV while on my PC doing work, it goes dark for minutes or longer before I turn around and see if turning off. So far, has not happened when watching something important like a sporting event but I wonder if this will increase.

Software is up-to-date so isn't BSOD.

Will check our posts in this thread to see if others had it but any solutions appreciated.


You might want to look at this post and the one it links to:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20951945#post20951945

Your situation may not be related, but re-seating the drive connectors doesn't cost anything except time.

I would try a tap test. On the 42PF7320, the driver cards are behind the right edge of the screen. I presume they would be similarly located on other models in the family. I would try tapping (not pounding) on the area to the right of the screen front and the back behind the right quarter or so of the screen. If that causes the unit to flicker or switch from black to on or on to black, I would definetely try a re-seat.
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post #1568 of 1650 Old 05-02-2012, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

I would try a tap test. On the 42PF7320, the driver cards are behind the right edge of the screen. I presume they would be similarly located on other models in the family. I would try tapping (not pounding) on the area to the right of the screen front and the back behind the right quarter or so of the screen. If that causes the unit to flicker or switch from black to on or on to black, I would definetely try a re-seat.

Thanks......so the LEFT side of the back of the unit....maybe 3/4 of the way up ?

If it is dark and the tap brings it up does that imply something is loose ?
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post #1569 of 1650 Old 05-02-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Thanks......so the LEFT side of the back of the unit....maybe 3/4 of the way up ?

If it is dark and the tap brings it up does that imply something is loose ?

I would usually tap anywhere from 1/4 of the way up to 3/4 of the way up. That covers the area where the driver boards are mounted in my 42" set. Yours is bigger, so I don't know where they would fall. They are mounted about 5 to 10 inches from the right edge(as viewed from the front of my TV) or the left edge as viewed from the back. Again, I don't know where they would be on a 50" TV.

In my case, the tap test would cause the screen to flicker to 1/2 black or black when it had been good or become good when it had been 1/2 black or black.

I believe my problem to be an issue with the quality of the connectors that mate the horizontal drive boards to the mother board. My problem first appeared when the TV was several years old. I re-seated the driver boards, and the problem went away for almost 2 years. I re-seated them again last summer, and I have not had a problem since then.

Immediately after the re-seat, the tap no longer had any effect.

I do expect to have to re-seat them every so often, because I suspect something causes a contamination buildup on the connectors, over time.

I also suspect that different pins on the connectors can have issues, creating slightly different symptoms. In my case, the most common problem was a bottom 1/2 black, next was the top 1/2 black, and the least common was all black. All were intermittent, and followed no obvious pattern. The fact that there were multiple symptoms was why I thought there was some possibility that your set could have developed the same issue.

The post I linked to in my initial reply provides a link path to the re-seat procedure I used.
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post #1570 of 1650 Old 05-03-2012, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

I would usually tap anywhere from 1/4 of the way up to 3/4 of the way up. That covers the area where the driver boards are mounted in my 42" set. Yours is bigger, so I don't know where they would fall. They are mounted about 5 to 10 inches from the right edge(as viewed from the front of my TV) or the left edge as viewed from the back. Again, I don't know where they would be on a 50" TV. In my case, the tap test would cause the screen to flicker to 1/2 black or black when it had been good or become good when it had been 1/2 black or black. I believe my problem to be an issue with the quality of the connectors that mate the horizontal drive boards to the mother board. My problem first appeared when the TV was several years old. I re-seated the driver boards, and the problem went away for almost 2 years. I re-seated them again last summer, and I have not had a problem since then. Immediately after the re-seat, the tap no longer had any effect. I do expect to have to re-seat them every so often, because I suspect something causes a contamination buildup on the connectors, over time. I also suspect that different pins on the connectors can have issues, creating slightly different symptoms. In my case, the most common problem was a bottom 1/2 black, next was the top 1/2 black, and the least common was all black. All were intermittent, and followed no obvious pattern. The fact that there were multiple symptoms was why I thought there was some possibility that your set could have developed the same issue.
The post I linked to in my initial reply provides a link path to the re-seat procedure I used.

HOLY CRAP, IT WORKED !!!!

Gonna try it again but it brought back the TV when it happened this morning after about 70 minutes of viewing. Not sure what is loose since I don't live near a railroad or anything that would jostle any wires or circuits.

I'll go over yours and other posts and then determine what I should do next. Gonna try the 'tap' again if/when it happens again just to confirm it is the same problem you had.

Thanks again !
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post #1571 of 1650 Old 05-03-2012, 06:48 AM
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CONFIRMED: Went dark and the tap fixed it again.....now I just have to decide on what to do. You say that re-seating the driver boards (you mean, re-bolting them ???) fixed the problem but I am surprised a board can get loose in the first place. A wire or connector or fuse or capacitor I could see. Any idea how a board gets loose when the TV hasn't moved an inch in 3 years ???
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post #1572 of 1650 Old 05-03-2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

CONFIRMED: Went dark and the tap fixed it again.....now I just have to decide on what to do. You say that re-seating the driver boards (you mean, re-bolting them ???) fixed the problem but I am surprised a board can get loose in the first place. A wire or connector or fuse or capacitor I could see. Any idea how a board gets loose when the TV hasn't moved an inch in 3 years ???

My theory has been talked about if you follow the link path I referred to. The re-seating procedure is also discussed in the article and the ones it links to.

One possibility is the defective connector theory. They build up contamination, and the connection deteriorates. Re-seating temporarily cleans off the contamination and buys some time.

Another possibility that has occurred to me may be the way the boards are mounted. The mother board and the driver boards are screwed into stand-offs installed in a panel. If the boards and the panel do not have identical thermal expansion characteristics, which is not unlikely, the connectors between the driver boards and the mother boards will be stressed over time as the TV heats and cools. My Plasma TV definitely warms up quite a bit. During heating or cooling, the boards may shrink, compared to the panel, which would separate the connectors. When they grow with respect to the panel, they should get pressed together again, but I have no idea, if the insertion and extraction force requirements for the connectors are an exact match. Over hundreds of temperature cycles, the connectors may be walking out of their ideal seating area. Actually, I don't consider the mounting arrangement to be a good one. They probably should have made it possible for the driver boards to slide(The holes in the boards could have been slotted and they could have used mounting screws that did not bind the boards to the standoffs, or the boards could have slid into a track), or they could have used a flexible connector arrangement.

Obviously, I don't have the information to be sure what is happening, but a temporary repair for both of these possibilities is the same. The re-seating procedure I have performed included removing the screws and unplugging the driver boards and plugging them back in again. The screws were then re-installed. The process would tend to clean up any build up on the surface of the connectors, undo any separation of the connectors that might have taken place, and take off stress that may have built up in the board mounting system.

It is a fair amount of work to do the re-seating, and you should follow ESD procedures, but torx screw drivers are the most unusual tools needed although an ESD wrist strap is a good thing to have. I have posted what I went through. It is up to you whether the effort is worth it to you.
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post #1573 of 1650 Old 05-03-2012, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenavs View Post

It is a fair amount of work to do the re-seating, and you should follow ESD procedures, but torx screw drivers are the most unusual tools needed although an ESD wrist strap is a good thing to have. I have posted what I went through. It is up to you whether the effort is worth it to you.

Thanks a ton, Kenavs, I actually have an electrician friend who is quite good with TV's (he helped me with the 3300 uf capacitor problem on both of my 9631's). I sent him your replies and he says it seems like a simple procedure for him so I should be good to go.

In the meantime, The Tap will help me make sure I don't miss any NHL or NBA playoff games !!
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post #1574 of 1650 Old 05-09-2012, 05:47 AM
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Hii Dears,

I've received the 3300uf caps today and opened the plasma immediately but big surprise...My 42 in plasma has different psu board..Actually the boards which shared in this thread is big, however mine is small (maybe two pieces) I've attached some photos for your better understand...The 2nd photo shows P/N of the board..
I've checked the parts very carefully but I could not see any blown or damaged capacitor...now I need help again!! which is the problem board and which is the problem caps where responsible for 6-3 red blink?
( Full model code of TV is: 42PF9631D/10 and S/N is:T62206322 or QG1C0631024148)
Thanks a lot in advance.
Feyiz
Please click the photo and go to the imageshack for better resolution.

[IMG][/IMG]
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post #1575 of 1650 Old 05-09-2012, 02:11 PM
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Feyizu, I'm a bit rushed or I'd find the exact post #, but goto the pages in this thread in the high 20's, and read FORWARD....you will see plenty of clear pictures. There's also YouTube links.

There are 2 different PSB's, you must have one of the two. The caps may be different colors but the C8059 marker should ID where they are located.
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post #1576 of 1650 Old 05-10-2012, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Feyizu, I'm a bit rushed or I'd find the exact post #, but goto the pages in this thread in the high 20's, and read FORWARD....you will see plenty of clear pictures. There's also YouTube links.

There are 2 different PSB's, you must have one of the two. The caps may be different colors but the C8059 marker should ID where they are located.

I've read almost all this thread but I could not find any PSB picture like mine..also no YouTube links which refer to my 42in plasma.
I'm stuck
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post #1577 of 1650 Old 05-10-2012, 06:11 PM
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My TV is a 50PF9630A and my power board looks like this:


Notice all the cabling coming off it.


Here's a link to a video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_n...eature=related

Photo of a 42" power board:


Website where I found it: http://www.forumazur.com/en/infos/te...philips-lcd-tv


Google search for other photos of the board: HERE
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post #1578 of 1650 Old 05-11-2012, 01:54 AM
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Thanks a lot Carpenter for your info..But My 42in plasma's problem is a little bit different than forumazur's..My problem is 6-3 red blinking and PS Board is also different..I've read many forums but each forum advises different solutions..some say to replace some caps the other say to replace 7-8 different parts and I am not sure which one is correct.
If I find a person who has same problem and same board with me, he's solution will be more aplicable for me.My PSB is same as with the one on the picture below.

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post #1579 of 1650 Old 05-14-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feyizu View Post

Thanks a lot Carpenter for your info..But My 42in plasma's problem is a little bit different than forumazur's..My problem is 6-3 red blinking and PS Board is also different..I've read many forums but each forum advises different solutions..some say to replace some caps the other say to replace 7-8 different parts and I am not sure which one is correct.
If I find a person who has same problem and same board with me, he's solution will be more aplicable for me.My PSB is same as with the one on the picture below.

Do you turn your TV on with the 6-3 Blink problem using PLUG-UNPLUG ?

If yes...then replace the two 3300 UF caps.
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post #1580 of 1650 Old 05-14-2012, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Do you turn your TV on with the 6-3 Blink problem using PLUG-UNPLUG ?

If yes...then replace the two 3300 UF caps.

It seems easy to do ..the problem is which caps are 3300uf..please remember my board is different (smaller and looks like has many IC's)
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post #1581 of 1650 Old 05-15-2012, 11:43 AM
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The 3300's are about 1/2" long.....black in my case with silver top....looks like 1/2 of a AA battery.
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post #1582 of 1650 Old 05-20-2012, 12:14 PM
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You are lucky for having big size PSU board..everyone knows where are the problem caps on the board..and also there are many successfull solution stories on the forum.
I am still searching a successful repair story on my small size PSU board.
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post #1583 of 1650 Old 05-23-2012, 11:29 PM
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Fez, any luck ?
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post #1584 of 1650 Old 05-24-2012, 01:09 AM
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No, still unplug/plug and searching
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post #1585 of 1650 Old 05-27-2012, 01:27 PM
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Hi all, I've successfully replaced the 2 bad caps that seem to be fairly common around here about 15 months ago. It's been working great since... this past week.
One night it was working fine and when the souce changed, the TV blacked right out and gave me the 7 blinking lights (my TV has one HDMI cable to it, all sound and source switching is done on the receiver. We went from DVR to BluRay on the receiver. The input on the TV never changes). My first thought was, "thankfully I bought 4 caps the last time this happened!".
When I turned it back on it came on without an issue, and in fact the 7 blinking lights have never come back again. It powers on all the time with no issues. The problem is the picture itself. It's totally messed up. Red and Green fuzz with a faint picture behind it.
I took it off the wall today to have a peak inside and I'm not seeing anything out of ordinary. The replaced caps look like the day I put them in and there are no others that seem to be bad.
Has anyone seen this before? I don't want to put a whole lot of money into this TV for new parts, but I do enjoy it's Picture Quality when it's working and we love the Ambilight!

I also plugged the power back in with no inputs and the green pixelated screen persists.

Here's a poor cell phone picture of the TV while on with a cable source, and another with no source connected. You'll notice that you can still read "GALAXIE" in the bottom right corner. We were listening to Galaxy Radio on cable TV when it crapped out. I decided to watch the hockey game that night even with the worse-than-rabbit-ears quality.
LL
LL
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post #1586 of 1650 Old 06-03-2012, 07:00 PM
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no one's seen this before? ^^
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post #1587 of 1650 Old 06-03-2012, 07:10 PM
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Just a wild thought -- try hooking up your receiver or Blu-ray with component cables instead of the HDMI as a test to see if it is your HDMI connection is at fault.

John Hanley
Sugar Land, TX
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post #1588 of 1650 Old 06-03-2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advil_yum View Post

no one's seen this before? ^^

I am thinking it's the "Y-Board" or one of the other boards that doesn't house the 3300 caps. I think it was mentioned here but years back, probably Pages 15-25 or so on this thread. And also maybe in the 9630 User Thread, too.

Check YouTube, too.

Can you get a good picture using component ? What about with a Blu-Ray/DVD ? Side inputs ???

Report back....
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post #1589 of 1650 Old 06-03-2012, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hh22166 View Post

hmm ok, it prolly is based on cable mostly, but the click off is whats drastically different for me.

Click-off ? You mean the click-off when you turn off the TV that happens anywhere from 1-10 seconds later ? Or the clicking when the TV is off when something is updating internally from the cable connection ?
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post #1590 of 1650 Old 06-04-2012, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retexan599 View Post

Just a wild thought -- try hooking up your receiver or Blu-ray with component cables instead of the HDMI as a test to see if it is your HDMI connection is at fault.

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Originally Posted by Advil_Yum View Post

I also plugged the power back in with no inputs and the green pixelated screen persists.

The green screen picture you see in my post is what happens with no inputs connected at all. Just powered up.
I'll try some other inputs, but I'm fairly certain it'll be fruitless. Thanks for the suggestions.
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