The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 249 - AVS Forum
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post #7441 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdubs97 View Post

I'm new to this forum and TV is less than a month old. I have the 5080 Pioneer Kuro. I just switched to a HDMI connection. The horizontal flashy white line at the top of my screen is there (only some times) on high def channels...and seems to happen more during commercials...anyways..it was there when I had it connected via component as well as the HDMI. I called Pioneer and they said it was my cable company and how they broadcast..blabla. I never had this issue with any other tv's. I did not use a burn in dvd and have mainly been watching HD channels and in full screen mode. Any recommendations? Thanks

I see this occasionally and it goes away when I turn off the orbiter. However, I don't want any IR, so I leave the orbiter on and deal with the occasional white fuzzy line during cropped HD programming and commercials. I don't want to mess with the picture positioning, but you can.

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Originally Posted by liquidsense View Post

Please excuse my ignorance. I have been trying to search here and elsewhere, but am having trouble finding the answer.

When one has their set ISF calibrated (e.g., on a 5080), what actual changes does the calibrator make? I have a general overview of what they are trying to achieve, but what exactly do they do to the TV?

IF they do not access the service menu, are they simply changing the very small handful of options that are in the picture options?

Or are they changing the picture options AND accessing the service menu and making changes there?

Is there anything else that they do that I have missed?

They do enter the service menu and they get the greyscale as close to D65 as possible. They also get the gamma curve as spot on as they can. This will ensure the proper color, shadow detail and light output.

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post #7442 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 05:52 AM
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Thanks,
I think I'll just deal with that little delay for now. I'm getting my tv put on the wall today...so hopefully I'll really get to making everything look good thanks again
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post #7443 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 09:58 AM
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ahh crap!!
Which is the exact file to download for the break in disc, is it the ISO file?
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post #7444 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 10:08 AM
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Hello all,

I just got my PRO-150FD in yesterday and have a question regarding changing channels/resolution.

When I change from my Tivo menu screen (displaying at 720p) by telling it to play/resume a program that is recorded at a different resolution level (be it 480i to 1080i) the Kuro blanks for about two seconds and sometimes there is some garbage on screen then the picture appears as normal. During the switch I can hear the audio of the program. It is if the Kuro has to think for a bit when it changes to a different resolution mode and then it is fine. This also happens when I am switching channels through the Tivo tuner (two cable cards).

I am sure this is probably a newbie setup question that has been addressed hundreds of time before and I would find the solution if I took the time to read through the 400 plus pages of comments (!). Any help from experienced Kuro hands would be appreciated.

Here is my setup for the components involved:

1) PRO-150FD
2) Tivo Series 3 DVR with HDMI cable output going into Input #4 on the Kuro. I am using the HDMI cable that came with the Tivo.
3) Tivo's video settings are set to widescreen 16:9 and Native resolution mode.
4) The Kuro is set to factory defaults.

Thanks!

GM_Scorch
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post #7445 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 10:09 AM
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Hi all--new Pioneer 4280 owner here and VERY simple when it comes to A/V issues so I was looking for some A/V for dumb dumbs type help!

I have my DVD player hooked up via HDMI cable in the #4 port. When I push the HDMI control button on my remote the menu comes up but the options are all greyed out and I can't access them. At the bottom of that menu it says: Current settings do not allow selection and adjustment.

I don't really know what other settings I need to fiddle with to solve the issue. The settings in the HDMI section of the dvd player just has:

Auto
480p
576p (which is greyed out)
720p
1080i

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me crazy!
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post #7446 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM_Scorch View Post

Hello all,

I just got my PRO-150FD in yesterday and have a question regarding changing channels/resolution.

When I change from my Tivo menu screen (displaying at 720p) by telling it to play/resume a program that is recorded at a different resolution level (be it 480i to 1080i) the Kuro blanks for about two seconds and sometimes there is some garbage on screen then the picture appears as normal. During the switch I can hear the audio of the program. It is if the Kuro has to think for a bit when it changes to a different resolution mode and then it is fine. This also happens when I am switching channels through the Tivo tuner (two cable cards).

I am sure this is probably a newbie setup question that has been addressed hundreds of time before and I would find the solution if I took the time to read through the 400 plus pages of comments (!). Any help from experienced Kuro hands would be appreciated.

Here is my setup for the components involved:

1) PRO-150FD
2) Tivo Series 3 DVR with HDMI cable output going into Input #4 on the Kuro. I am using the HDMI cable that came with the Tivo.
3) Tivo's video settings are set to widescreen 16:9 and Native resolution mode.
4) The Kuro is set to factory defaults.

Thanks!

GM_Scorch

I started having similar issues when I switched from component to HDMI cable from my cable box. Never had tis problem with componet.
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post #7447 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krendel View Post

I started having similar issues when I switched from component to HDMI cable from my cable box. Never had tis problem with componet.

Ah ha! I thought I should try that first. I will switch to component when I get home from work.

It could be because of the DRM handshake over HDMI, maybe.

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post #7448 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meyerovb View Post

To all you seasoned pros out there, I'm seeing questions from multiple newbies (including myself) about if we should run the break in dvd non stop for 150 hours, or if we should give the set a rest for a while in between runs. Perhaps if you can all come to a consensus on this, then the post on the first page could be modified to give that advice, and all us newbies would stop pestering you about that.

Thanks!

I ran my set for a good 12-14 hours a day but shut it off at night. The wifey then fired it up in the morning using mainly DiascoveryHD theater. We did not use a break-in disc. I just varied my programming along with using reasonable settings and everything worked out just perfectly.

Wait and see what the consensus is if you'd like, but I would just run it all day and shut it off before bedtime. I also would NOT recommend leaving it running while noone is home just in case something happens!

My 2 cents.....
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post #7449 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM_Scorch View Post


When I change from my Tivo menu screen (displaying at 720p) by telling it to play/resume a program that is recorded at a different resolution level (be it 480i to 1080i) the Kuro blanks for about two seconds and sometimes there is some garbage on screen then the picture appears as normal. During the switch I can hear the audio of the program. It is if the Kuro has to think for a bit when it changes to a different resolution mode and then it is fine. This also happens when I am switching channels through the Tivo tuner (two cable cards).


Here is my setup for the components involved:

1) PRO-150FD
2) Tivo Series 3 DVR with HDMI cable output going into Input #4 on the Kuro. I am using the HDMI cable that came with the Tivo.
3) Tivo's video settings are set to widescreen 16:9 and Native resolution mode.
4) The Kuro is set to factory defaults.

Thanks!

GM_Scorch

See my pics on page 247. I have similar problems with a 5080 and it appears as though the Pios are experiencing some issues in immediately recognizing the signal being sent from the stb.

RE: The suggestion to use component in instead of HDMI... Isn't this an inferior connection for video as well as audio?
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post #7450 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

See my pics on page 247. I have similar problems with a 5080 and it appears as though the Pios are experiencing some issues in immediately recognizing the signal being sent from the stb.

RE: The suggestion to use component in instead of HDMI... Isn't this an inferior connection for video as well as audio?

Well, that is up for debate. Over distance, yes, there can be signal degradation over component versus HDMI. But that is an arguement that rages back and forth and one I shall not get into. My audio does not pipe through the TV but instead goes from the Tivo right to my stereo via digital fibre so that is no a consideration.

Thanks for the link to your problem on page 247. That is exactly what I have happening and the discussions you have after are very informative and go a long way to suppressing my initial worries.

It is nice to know that one is never alone when it comes to problems with AV equipment on this forum... the Kuro "buzz" thread taught me that.

GM_Scorch
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post #7451 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM_Scorch View Post

Hello all,

I just got my PRO-150FD in yesterday and have a question regarding changing channels/resolution.

When I change from my Tivo menu screen (displaying at 720p) by telling it to play/resume a program that is recorded at a different resolution level (be it 480i to 1080i) the Kuro blanks for about two seconds and sometimes there is some garbage on screen then the picture appears as normal. During the switch I can hear the audio of the program. It is if the Kuro has to think for a bit when it changes to a different resolution mode and then it is fine. This also happens when I am switching channels through the Tivo tuner (two cable cards).

I am sure this is probably a newbie setup question that has been addressed hundreds of time before and I would find the solution if I took the time to read through the 400 plus pages of comments (!). Any help from experienced Kuro hands would be appreciated.

Here is my setup for the components involved:

1) PRO-150FD
2) Tivo Series 3 DVR with HDMI cable output going into Input #4 on the Kuro. I am using the HDMI cable that came with the Tivo.
3) Tivo's video settings are set to widescreen 16:9 and Native resolution mode.
4) The Kuro is set to factory defaults.

Thanks!

GM_Scorch

This is normal; won't hurt anything. It seems to be a product of the HDMI handshake attempt between cable boxes. I had this happen to me when I had time warner, and I have it happen with the HR21 from D* (but HR20 users are reporting that they do not have this issue. It would seem its only certain cable/dish receivers).

Its not going to hurt the TV, so no worries there. Its more of an annoyance than anything.

Switching to component should resolve the issue entirely. Otherwise you can take the box out of "pass through" or "native" or whatever you want to call it, and select only 1080i as the resolution to be used. However, this will cause the cable/dish box to do the processing instead of the TV (the TV will do a better job).

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post #7452 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 02:56 PM
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Is it just me or do the settings for each input (ANT. A and HDMI 4) not save? I go to set the HDMI 4 input for my PS3 and then the ANT. A input for cable and I notice that they don't save. In other words, when I set HDMI 4 input for the PS3, the same settings show up for ANT. A. When I set up the ANT. A input and switch back to HDMI 4, HDMI 4 has changed to the settings for ANT. A and so on and so forth.

I thought they were independent of each other and I could have different settings for each input, i.e. settings for ANT. A and different settings for HDMI 4. However, this is not the case!

Am I missing something???

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post #7453 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatchet View Post

Is it just me or do the settings for each input (ANT. A and HDMI 4) not save? I go to set the HDMI 4 input for my PS3 and then the ANT. A input for cable and I notice that they don't save. In other words, when I set HDMI 4 input for the PS3, the same settings show up for ANT. A. When I set up the ANT. A input and switch back to HDMI 4, HDMI 4 has changed to the settings for ANT. A and so on and so forth.

I thought they were independent of each other and I could have different settings for each input, i.e. settings for ANT. A and different settings for HDMI 4. However, this is not the case!

Am I missing something???

Only if you do settings in USER
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post #7454 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jddesigned View Post

Only if you do settings in USER

I'm using Movie mode on both inputs. I think I'm going crazy b/c I remember it used to save them once they were set up. Now it doesn't .

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post #7455 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatchet View Post

I'm using Movie mode on both inputs. I think I'm going crazy b/c I remember it used to save them once they were set up. Now it doesn't .

Only User mode allow individual settings for each input.

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post #7456 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Only User mode allow individual settings for each input.

Ah...there it is then. Thanks for bringing my sanity back!

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post #7457 of 12876 Old 02-18-2008, 11:57 PM
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here's my "final" settings for 5080 w/ 400hrs on the panel, ps3 over hdmi and bluray (1080p/24hz/superwhite on/rgb full):

R high: 248 (+3)
G high: 256 (no change)
B high: 228 (-10)
R low: 500 (-12)
G low: 512 (no change)
B low: 499 (-13)

...rgb settings per d-nice's post previously...

mode: movie
contrast: 38
brightness: 0
color: -3
sharpness: +4
tint: r1

film mode: advance
text op: off

dre: low
black level: off
acl: off
enhancer mode: 2
gamma: 3

color temp: mid
cti: off

3dnr: off
field nr: off

I have went back and forth with MOVIE having more contrast and USER having less (more like 27-29 on user) and MOVIE with these settings looks the best, give them a shot... i'm pretty impressed, here's a shot from pirates

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post #7458 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 01:49 AM
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I had the distinct pleasure of having Jeff (umr) over to my house last night for a video and audio calibration. WOW what a huge difference 4 hours with Jeff made to my entire system. The video of my 150FD never looked as good as it does now, it is amazing the detail and color it now produces. What's interesting is how close the settings were on mine out of the box.

As for the audio, my system had some problems - speaker out of phase, left channel needing some repair assistance and a under powered AVR. But with all of this is sounds better then it ever did. The audio calibration was well worth the full price by itself...

For those that live in areas that Jeff visits, do yourself a big favor, book his services, you won't be sorry... I learned so much from Jeff in the short amount of time he was there. I'm ready to go buy something new so I can have him back over... Count me as a completely satisfied customer... Thanks Jeff and good luck on the rest of your tour.

Ken
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post #7459 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

...Thanks Jeff and good luck on the rest of your tour.


Thank you Ken for the kind words. It was my pleasure.
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I will add my kudos to Ken's (facke02) comments about Jeff (UMR). Jeff has now done two displays for me (Sony HD CRT and Pio150) and the before and after were well worth it. This was the first time Jeff touched the audio side and I must say that I am glad he has added this service to his portfolio. For those of you that are on the bubble I continue to recommend an A/V calibration and I certainly recommend Jeff as a highly qualified provider with the right tools and knowledge to do the jobs correctly.
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I've been playing around with the settings on my 4280 and D-Nice's suggestions are outstanding except in dark scenes....way too dark for me.
What should I adjust that will boost the overall levels of the darkest scenes but keep the colors close to what they are now?

Just in case someone else has the same combination of hardware I do...

4280 (D-Nice settings + 2 on contrast)
Dvico Tvix HD M6500A
HDMI

Mainly playing HD broadcasts over-the-air and DVD rips right now.

thanks for any suggestions.
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post #7462 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedonga View Post

I've been playing around with the settings on my 4280 and D-Nice's suggestions are outstanding except in dark scenes....way too dark for me.
What should I adjust that will boost the overall levels of the darkest scenes but keep the colors close to what they are now?

Just in case someone else has the same combination of hardware I do...

4280 (D-Nice settings + 2 on contrast)
Dvico Tvix HD M6500A
HDMI

Mainly playing HD broadcasts over-the-air and DVD rips right now.

thanks for any suggestions.

Well, you can try upping the brightness but too much of that will wash out the blacks. Too much contrast will make the whites to hot and will start to mess up the color.

What are your actual settings right now? Post them and we'll take a look....
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settings now: (I tried brightness +1 and +2 as well)

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 0
Color: -13
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -11


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On
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post #7464 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedonga View Post

settings now: (I tried brightness +1 and +2 as well)

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 0
Color: -13
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -11


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On

Couple things you could try:

Contrast: 32
Brightness: +2
DRE Picture: LOW (this gives a slight dark scene/light scene transient "kick")
Color Temp: MID (Low is too red IMO and the MID temp may liven things up)
Gamma: 2 (gamma 3 washes the picture out ever so slightly, IMO)

See if any of this helps. Remember too that an overly bright picture is NOT accurate and you might have to watch some different programming with these new settings to really evaluate them.

Good Luck
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post #7465 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

I had the distinct pleasure of having Jeff (umr) over to my house last night for a video and audio calibration. WOW what a huge difference 4 hours with Jeff made to my entire system. The video of my 150FD never looked as good as it does now, it is amazing the detail and color it now produces. What's interesting is how close the settings were on mine out of the box.

As for the audio, my system had some problems - speaker out of phase, left channel needing some repair assistance and a under powered AVR. But with all of this is sounds better then it ever did. The audio calibration was well worth the full price by itself...

For those that live in areas that Jeff visits, do yourself a big favor, book his services, you won't be sorry... I learned so much from Jeff in the short amount of time he was there. I'm ready to go buy something new so I can have him back over... Count me as a completely satisfied customer... Thanks Jeff and good luck on the rest of your tour.


Great news! I'm sitting here now waiting for Jeff to pull up! Glad it worked out well Ken Is it strange to be excited about a calibrator showing up? Or is it the geek in me .

"...I'm ready for dream-time Mr. B."
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post #7466 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilent1 View Post

Great news! I'm sitting here now waiting for Jeff to pull up! Glad it worked out well Ken Is it strange to be excited about a calibrator showing up? Or is it the geek in me .

It's the geek You are going to LIKE the results, trust me... Good luck and let us know how it goes...

Ken
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post #7467 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:24 AM
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s2mikey:
thanks I'll try your suggestions when I get home.
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post #7468 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by thedonga View Post

settings now: (I tried brightness +1 and +2 as well)

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 0
Color: -13
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -11


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On

I agree with S2mikey concerning some of what he said. Your brightness is too low. +2 looks much better but doesn't make the blacks loose their inkiness. You can also try turning DRE to Low.

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post #7469 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post

Couple things you could try:

Contrast: 32
Brightness: +2
DRE Picture: LOW (this gives a slight dark scene/light scene transient "kick")
Color Temp: MID (Low is too red IMO and the MID temp may liven things up)
Gamma: 2 (gamma 3 washes the picture out ever so slightly, IMO)

See if any of this helps. Remember too that an overly bright picture is NOT accurate and you might have to watch some different programming with these new settings to really evaluate them.

Good Luck

A Gamma of 2 will throw off the Gamma curve IMO. With User mode, 3 is better. With Movie Mode, 2 is better. YMMV.

Also, I do believe a color temp of Low is closer to 6500 out of the box than Mid. Sure, you have some Red Push, but I've posted how to get rid of that.

In the end, choose whichever looks best to you.

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No matter what measurements tell us, a loudspeaker isn’t good until it
sounds good. - Dr. Floyd Toole
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post #7470 of 12876 Old 02-19-2008, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

A Gamma of 2 will throw off the Gamma curve IMO. With User mode, 3 is better. With Movie Mode, 2 is better. YMMV.

Also, I do believe a color temp of Low is closer to 6500 out of the box than Mid. Sure, you have some Red Push, but I've posted how to get rid of that.

In the end, choose whichever looks best to you.

You're probably right, I was just giving him some suggestions to play with. I suspect that many of us do NOT quite have accurate displays but like you said, we have to go with what works best for us.

I agree on the Gamma 3 being better for MOVIE but I figured he could try it.

And YES, I might try your SM "red push" elimination technique if I get ballsy later tonight....
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