The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 250 - AVS Forum
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post #7471 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 07:17 AM
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my settings...

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 35
Brightness: 2
Color: -8
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: low
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 1


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On
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post #7472 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 07:23 AM
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Where are the red, green, and blue settings located in the Service menu?
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post #7473 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 07:55 AM
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when I go into the sm to change the side mask,all I have under initialize is side mask,no individual r mask g mask b mask it just says side mask <=> 115 . that is different from post #83. which is correct?
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post #7474 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post

You're probably right, I was just giving him some suggestions to play with. I suspect that many of us do NOT quite have accurate displays but like you said, we have to go with what works best for us.

I agree on the Gamma 3 being better for MOVIE but I figured he could try it.

And YES, I might try your SM "red push" elimination technique if I get ballsy later tonight....

Agreed.

Oh, and Gamma 2 is better for movie; 3 for User. I'm sure that's what you meant, though

Rick and Woody -

I posted the instructions a number of pages back in this thread and also in the PS3/Xbox 360 Kuro settings thread, but here ya go:

Please be careful. I won't be held responsible for anything that happens.

My journey to find the "perfect" speaker
Dr. Olive's Blog

 

 

No matter what measurements tell us, a loudspeaker isn’t good until it
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post #7475 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by facke02 View Post

I had the distinct pleasure of having Jeff (umr) over to my house last night for a video and audio calibration.

Thanks for the calibration report. It's been included in the list that is linked at the bottom of my post.

If anyone knows of calibration reports, including the name of the calibrator, that I've missed, please PM me. I'm not able to read all the related threads.
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post #7476 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jqmn View Post

I will add my kudos to Ken's (facke02) comments about Jeff (UMR).

Thanks for your calibration report. I've added it to the list of reports that is linked at the bottom of my post.
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post #7477 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 12:02 PM
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Qustion about Pixels. I have had my 5080 since Sunday and I'm blown away so far. I tend to be a worry wort about my stuff especially when a I pay a lot for it. When I turned my tv on for the first time I notcied that what apeared to be a few white spots on the screen that went away in a split second. It's almost as if they were pixels that were firing just a tad late compared to the others. I'm not sure if that is what it was or not, but it only hapened that one time at first start up and never since. I'v logged around 20 hours of viewing and most of that being the break in SVCD. I have not seen any dead or stuck pixels since. Is this sort of thing normal whe you turn the tv on for the first time? I just want to make sure that I don't have anything to worry about in the future.

Thanks for any help on this.
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post #7478 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 01:32 PM
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Well, Jeff (UMR) just left my house and I still have the grin stuck on my face. Jeff was a pleasure to talk to and you can feel his passion for what he does. I can most definitely see the difference his calibration has made on my 150FD. My original settings were crushing blacks and my greyscale was out of whack. Post calibration, the blacks are wonderful now, with shadow detail more pronounced. The picture has an added depth that I did not see before. I have not had a chance to test out much material (he just left!), but of the few clips I have viewed, the improvement to my eyes is NOT subtle.

An even bigger surprise was the improvement he made to my audio system. I figured there was not much to improve since my setup is quite modest when it comes to my speakers. After getting my levels adjusted correctly and getting my subs to play nice together, I was amazed how good my little setup sounded. No matter what the cost of your equipment, proper setup is key.

I've jumped on the UMR bandwagon and don't plan on getting off. Anyone even remotely considering having calibration work done, it would behoove you to seek out Jeff's services. Thanks Jeff for helping me get the most of my system, I'll be calling when it's time to setup the new theater and PJ! Have a safe trip on the rest of the tour.

Regards,
Anthony

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post #7479 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cilent1 View Post

Well, Jeff (UMR) just left my house and I still have the grin stuck on my face.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the list that is linked at the bottom of my post.
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post #7480 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cilent1 View Post

Well, Jeff (UMR) just left my house and I still have the grin stuck on my face. Jeff was a pleasure to talk to and you can feel his passion for what he does. I can most definitely see the difference his calibration has made on my 150FD. My original settings were crushing blacks and my greyscale was out of whack. Post calibration, the blacks are wonderful now, with shadow detail more pronounced. The picture has an added depth that I did not see before. I have not had a chance to test out much material (he just left!), but of the few clips I have viewed, the improvement to my eyes is NOT subtle.

An even bigger surprise was the improvement he made to my audio system. I figured there was not much to improve since my setup is quite modest when it comes to my speakers. After getting my levels adjusted correctly and getting my subs to play nice together, I was amazed how good my little setup sounded. No matter what the cost of your equipment, proper setup is key.

I've jumped on the UMR bandwagon and don't plan on getting off. Anyone even remotely considering having calibration work done, it would behoove you to seek out Jeff's services. Thanks Jeff for helping me get the most of my system, I'll be calling when it's time to setup the new theater and PJ! Have a safe trip on the rest of the tour.

Regards,
Anthony

Congrats Anthony - the picture is just amazing after Jeff works his magic...

Ken
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post #7481 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 05:23 PM
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Jeff (umr) - any plans on visiting Phoenix or Scottsdale, AZ, soon? I looked on your site and your travel plans do not list AZ, at all.

My favorite toy
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post #7482 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 06:55 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Agreed.

Oh, and Gamma 2 is better for movie; 3 for User. I'm sure that's what you meant, though

Rick and Woody -

I posted the instructions a number of pages back in this thread and also in the PS3/Xbox 360 Kuro settings thread, but here ya go:

Please be careful. I won't be held responsible for anything that happens.


So I'm not crazy...I did think that Gamma 2 was better with Movie mode. Glad someone else agrees with me. However, I think that only apply's if you alter the RGB setting in the user menu and set color temp to MID, right? I have mine changed and I know you have had it calibrated so your's has been changed also.
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post #7483 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

A Gamma of 2 will throw off the Gamma curve IMO. With User mode, 3 is better. With Movie Mode, 2 is better. YMMV.

Also, I do believe a color temp of Low is closer to 6500 out of the box than Mid. Sure, you have some Red Push, but I've posted how to get rid of that.

In the end, choose whichever looks best to you.

DRE low and +2 brightness worked pretty well, thanks. There is definitely some extra red in the picture. I'll search the thread a bit to find the red push SM fix and give it a go. Thanks for your help.
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post #7484 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 08:03 PM
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i am setting up my 150 and i can not seem to switch to standard picture. any help would be helpful. Also everytime my HD local channels switch from commercial to a show, i hear a popping a popping noice. i heard this is normal, but a bestbuy employee told me exchange the unit. please help.
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post #7485 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedonga View Post

DRE low and +2 brightness worked pretty well, thanks. There is definitely some extra red in the picture. I'll search the thread a bit to find the red push SM fix and give it a go. Thanks for your help.

No problem.

Here is how to get into the service menu and adjust the RGB settings. Lower the R-High setting if you want to get rid of the red push. Lower it in increments of 5 until you're happy. It should be noted, this only applies to the color temp of Low.

Good luck and be careful. I won't be held responsible for those who tinker around in the SM.

My journey to find the "perfect" speaker
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No matter what measurements tell us, a loudspeaker isn’t good until it
sounds good. - Dr. Floyd Toole
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post #7486 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronin View Post

So I'm not crazy...I did think that Gamma 2 was better with Movie mode. Glad someone else agrees with me. However, I think that only apply's if you alter the RGB setting in the user menu and set color temp to MID, right? I have mine changed and I know you have had it calibrated so your's has been changed also.



Changing the RGB settings in the SM applies to all color temps. The SM does default to Mid when you enter it, but an experienced technician can easily use the low color temp for calibration (mine did). You just have to know how.

I use the low color temp because its closer to D65 out of the box. My TV was calibrated with the low color temp. My recommended settings, including a gamma of 2 in Movie mode, apply to the Low color temp only (I've never used the Mid color temp because the whites are too blue and there is blue push). Having my greyscale in line helps, of course.

Hope that helps.

My journey to find the "perfect" speaker
Dr. Olive's Blog

 

 

No matter what measurements tell us, a loudspeaker isn’t good until it
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post #7487 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

Jeff (umr) - any plans on visiting Phoenix or Scottsdale, AZ, soon? I looked on your site and your travel plans do not list AZ, at all.

Not soon. I expect it will not be until the summer.
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post #7488 of 12878 Old 02-19-2008, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cilent1 View Post

...

An even bigger surprise was the improvement he made to my audio system. I figured there was not much to improve since my setup is quite modest when it comes to my speakers. After getting my levels adjusted correctly and getting my subs to play nice together, I was amazed how good my little setup sounded. No matter what the cost of your equipment, proper setup is key....

Thank you for the review Anthony.

This is the fact that most people are totally ignoring. It really does not matter what level of surround system you have or if it has automatic calibration tools. The quality of the sound is usually improved more than the video with proper setup. Not considering setup services that include audio with video is a huge loss.
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post #7489 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 05:07 AM
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D-Nice: I watched my first old B & W movie on my 110 the other night. Thank you for your settings for these movies! ! The picture looked much better with them.

John
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post #7490 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 06:07 AM
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I have about $900 in sony points (can use to buy anything sony) and a new pioneer 5080. Any suggestions? Blu-Ray player or ps3? etc? I'm not a big gamer...hardly ever used the PS2..but it might be cool to have. Not sure how these things play on the 5080. Thanks
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post #7491 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 06:37 AM
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Once you get in the sm,how can you swich from the default mid color temp to the warm color temp without having to go back and forth in and out of sm?
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post #7492 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdubs97 View Post

I have about $900 in sony points (can use to buy anything sony) and a new pioneer 5080. Any suggestions? Blu-Ray player or ps3? etc? I'm not a big gamer...hardly ever used the PS2..but it might be cool to have. Not sure how these things play on the 5080.

I've got a PS3 hooked up to my 6010. It plays wonderfully. IMO, buy the 40GB unit. You'll pay about the same as for a Blu-ray player and you get a game machine as well. There are plenty of types of games out there that you might find you're interested in. It's not all shooters, there's stuff like Guitar Hero, Rock Band, and other 'family-friendly' or 'party' type games.

The advice is free and worth exactly what you paid for it.
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post #7493 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody0654 View Post

when I go into the sm to change the side mask,all I have under initialize is side mask,no individual r mask g mask b mask it just says side mask <=> 115 . that is different from post #83. which is correct?

THat setting is correct for your set. If you lower this setting to 0 you can achieve the following, e.g., when watching a 4:3 DVD, the side mask will be black when you select "FIXED" under the user menu Side Mask setting and grey when you select "AUTO".
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post #7494 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorba1331 View Post

Hi all--new Pioneer 4280 owner here and VERY simple when it comes to A/V issues so I was looking for some A/V for dumb dumbs type help!

I have my DVD player hooked up via HDMI cable in the #4 port. When I push the HDMI control button on my remote the menu comes up but the options are all greyed out and I can't access them. At the bottom of that menu it says: Current settings do not allow selection and adjustment.

I don't really know what other settings I need to fiddle with to solve the issue. The settings in the HDMI section of the dvd player just has:

Auto
480p
576p (which is greyed out)
720p
1080i

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me crazy!

It is likely that your DVD player does not offer HDMI control...if it does, go to the 4280 OPTIONS/HDMI Control menu set options to ON and test the Power ON/OFF. If this is greyed out, your DVD player does not offer HDMI control.
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post #7495 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 08:36 AM
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Beowulf57-thanks for the info!
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post #7496 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 02:43 PM
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Beowulf57-thanks for the info!

My pleasure...you are quite welcome.
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post #7497 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 03:43 PM
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Seems to me I read somewhere that the 5080 has a feature that reduces screen intensity if left on a static image for too long - is this true, I did not see it in the manual?
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post #7498 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grybeard View Post

Seems to me I read somewhere that the 5080 has a feature that reduces screen intensity if left on a static image for too long - is this true, I did not see it in the manual?

sounds like LG ..
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post #7499 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grybeard View Post

Seems to me I read somewhere that the 5080 has a feature that reduces screen intensity if left on a static image for too long - is this true, I did not see it in the manual?

I'm not sure about that, but it does have a timer that will turn off the tv if there has not been any user input for 3 hours.
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post #7500 of 12878 Old 02-20-2008, 04:53 PM
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Just got my 5080 and have a few questions:

-I'm planning to use D-Nice's settings during break-in, unless anyone has a better suggestion. Where's the best place/link to get a break-in DVD? How many hours should the break-in be?

-is there a special purpose for the large on/off button on the lower left front of the tv, or is it simply for folks who don't want so use a remote?

-I have a SA8300HD STB (w/DVR). What's a good universal remote to give me the most control over the 5080 and the STB (w/DVR)? Are there universal remotes where I can change 5080 inputs easily?

-when using a universal remote, is there a way to delete unused inputs so I don't have to cycle through all of them?

-I was hoping this tv had a volume setting to keep all channels at the same level, but it doesn't appear so. Because the speakers connect externally, is there an external device I could buy to regulate the volume going to the 5080's external speakers?
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