The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 430 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12871 of 12895 Old 05-17-2014, 11:39 AM
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I've tried a few times to get into the service menu on my 5080. I just want to check the hours used. I start with the tv OFF, I've tried with the set powered completely off and in standby. Then press Display, wait 3 seconds (Saying one thousand One etc, ) Then Left, Up, Left, Right, and Power. My set comes on but I see nothing, it tells my it's set to input 5, but I never see the Info Page. I assume it's a timing thing and I'm just not holding my tongue right. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or doing something out of sequence. I think I did this once before years back after reading how on this forum. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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post #12872 of 12895 Old 05-18-2014, 08:33 PM
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DLDUKES,
once you are in the service menu, select INFORMATION then HOUR METER. THe note I see is (after entering Factory mode, press DOWN five times).
Mike

Mike
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post #12873 of 12895 Old 05-18-2014, 11:15 PM
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You literally need to hold the remote next to the sensor on the tv to check the hours.
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post #12874 of 12895 Old 05-22-2014, 03:39 PM
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Thanks, folks, I've tried a few more times, Last time with the damn remote right up against the ir sensor. no love. I see the remote's red light flash with each press, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Not the end of the world, but I know I did it once before years back.
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post #12875 of 12895 Old 06-08-2014, 02:08 AM
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Is it Worth Getting my TV Professionally Calibrated

not sure how many hours it has but here is what my tv says
its a PRO110FD

Hour Meter
Panel 021088H 44M
MTB 058389H 55M

P-Count 00005247 TIMES

Not sure what my hours are and what panel and MTB is

Thanks
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post #12876 of 12895 Old 06-08-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konfusion View Post

Is it Worth Getting my TV Professionally Calibrated

not sure how many hours it has but here is what my tv says
its a PRO110FD

Hour Meter
Panel 021088H 44M
MTB 058389H 55M

P-Count 00005247 TIMES

Not sure what my hours are and what panel and MTB is

Thanks
You can read other owners comments about their Kuro calibrations using the link in the signature area at the bottom of my post. Flat panel reports are in post number two.
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post #12877 of 12895 Unread 08-24-2014, 04:41 PM
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I'm not sure how active this thread is but I figured to start here.

After moving my family (and my Kuro) to a new home I've decided it's time to sell my PDP-6010FD. I'm writing to get anyone's advice as to the best way to get this done. Obviously this is a huge TV and would have to be a local sale (Minnesota) but just curious if anyone has had success buying or selling a Kuro recently.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Craigslist is of course an option for a local sale but I'm wondering how knowledgeable the buyers are in that market.

I have totally babied the TV and it's great, it just doesn't work in my set up anymore.
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post #12878 of 12895 Unread 08-24-2014, 04:41 PM
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I'm not sure how active this thread is but I figured to start here.

After moving my family (and my Kuro) to a new home I've decided it's time to sell my PDP-6010FD. I'm writing to get anyone's advice as to the best way to get this done. Obviously this is a huge TV and would have to be a local sale (Minnesota) but just curious if anyone has had success buying or selling a Kuro recently.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Craigslist is of course an option for a local sale but I'm wondering how knowledgeable the buyers are in that market.

I have totally babied the TV and it's great, it just doesn't work in my set up anymore.
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post #12879 of 12895 Unread 09-14-2014, 10:58 PM
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PDP-6010FD Reference Settings

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Updated 3/27/2008

Pioneer 5010FD/6010FD Reference Settings

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 33
Brightness: 0
Color: -10
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2 (Dot by Dot Stretch Mode) Mode 1 (All other Stretch Modes)


Note:
  • The color setting has been set to bring the overall color saturation to levels where everything "appears" correct. Feel free to change the color setting to your liking.
Hello D-Nice,

I used the settings you posted on the first page, however, my TV is looking REALLY flat/yellow. When i changed color temp to low i really noticed it. Colors dont pop and the whites are a light yellow. Do you have any new or updated settings i can try or a way to calibrate the tv myself? Mine has about 18,000 hours so idk if that has affect color settings over time. Also, I bought the TV second-hand and dont know if it was calibrated beforehand

thanks in advance for your help and the abundance of knowledge youve posted on this forum



_n.
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post #12880 of 12895 Unread 11-12-2014, 06:51 PM
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Hope someone can help a friend of mine. He has an 8G Elite and says that if the image doesn't change for a long time, the screen dims. Problem is, when he then unpauses, the screen still stays frozen and the only fix seems to be power cycling the Kuro. This occurs from multiple sources (xbox360, PS3, and PS4), all connected by HDMI. His power saver setting is turned off.

Any ideas?
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post #12881 of 12895 Unread 11-12-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
Hope someone can help a friend of mine. He has an 8G Elite and says that if the image doesn't change for a long time, the screen dims. Problem is, when he then unpauses, the screen still stays frozen and the only fix seems to be power cycling the Kuro. This occurs from multiple sources (xbox360, PS3, and PS4), all connected by HDMI. His power saver setting is turned off.

Any ideas?
Is your friend in the habit of pausing the set for long periods of time? I would start with not doing that. But if I did, I would try switching to another input source and back to the original source. That might also work. If his set only uses one input source then change the source further back in the signal path at the AVR.

He may be having a handshake problem which could be caused by a lot of different things.
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post #12882 of 12895 Unread 11-13-2014, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
Is your friend in the habit of pausing the set for long periods of time? I would start with not doing that. But if I did, I would try switching to another input source and back to the original source. That might also work. If his set only uses one input source then change the source further back in the signal path at the AVR.

He may be having a handshake problem which could be caused by a lot of different things.
My apologies, I misunderstood him. He says once it dims, it stays dimmed, but everything still works fine...it's just at 50% brightness or so, until he power cycles. So he still sees video, hears audio, can use the remote, can watch movies, can play video games, etc... but all while dimmed.

This is not the source dimming. I know PS4 also dims after period of inactivity, but that's a dimming he can see separately and it wakes up from that. Plus this dimming occurs regardless of the device outputting the video.

I will ask him to try changing inputs as you suggest.
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post #12883 of 12895 Unread 11-13-2014, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
My apologies, I misunderstood him. He says once it dims, it stays dimmed, but everything still works fine...it's just at 50% brightness or so, until he power cycles. So he still sees video, hears audio, can use the remote, can watch movies, can play video games, etc... but all while dimmed.

This is not the source dimming. I know PS4 also dims after period of inactivity, but that's a dimming he can see separately and it wakes up from that. Plus this dimming occurs regardless of the device outputting the video.

I will ask him to try changing inputs as you suggest.
It seems that your friend is in the habit of pausing his set for long periods of time. Ask him why.

Also, I'm not sure you got the point of changing to another source and then back to the one he's watching. Even if it's a source without a signal, it will force a handshake which might bring back the brightness without doing a power cycle.
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post #12884 of 12895 Unread 11-14-2014, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
It seems that your friend is in the habit of pausing his set for long periods of time. Ask him why.

Also, I'm not sure you got the point of changing to another source and then back to the one he's watching. Even if it's a source without a signal, it will force a handshake which might bring back the brightness without doing a power cycle.
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set". On my 9G remote I have a pause button, but it doesn't cause dimming, and I don't think he's actively pausing anything. I'd assume he's just doing what a lot of people do and walking away to answer the phone, use the restroom, or something and maybe taking longer than expected.

Good news, your advice to switch inputs does in fact make the dimming go away. So that's already an improvement over having to power cycle the TV. I understood the part about HDMI handshaking. I'm giving him the usual advice for that (trying a direct connection with no switchbox/AVRs, trying different cables, trying different input ports, etc).
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post #12885 of 12895 Unread 11-14-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set". On my 9G remote I have a pause button, but it doesn't cause dimming, and I don't think he's actively pausing anything. I'd assume he's just doing what a lot of people do and walking away to answer the phone, use the restroom, or something and maybe taking longer than expected.

Good news, your advice to switch inputs does in fact make the dimming go away. So that's already an improvement over having to power cycle the TV. I understood the part about HDMI handshaking. I'm giving him the usual advice for that (trying a direct connection with no switchbox/AVRs, trying different cables, trying different input ports, etc).
Are you saying that your friend walks away from his TV without doing anything, and when he comes back the image has been dimmed? I've never heard of that feature.
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post #12886 of 12895 Unread 11-14-2014, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set".
Well, your original post says, "Problem is, when he then unpauses, ..." so I think that's what is meant. Yeah, pause playback on your device (DVD, BDP, DVR, whatever), leave it paused for some time (I don't know what it is and I've avoided it assiduously on my 6010FD) and the image will dim by design. It's an image burn-in avoidance scheme and is normal. If switching inputs restores the image intensity then I think the issue has been addressed.
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post #12887 of 12895 Unread 11-14-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quarlo View Post
Well, your original post says, "Problem is, when he then unpauses, ..." so I think that's what is meant. Yeah, pause playback on your device (DVD, BDP, DVR, whatever), leave it paused for some time (I don't know what it is and I've avoided it assiduously on my 6010FD) and the image will dim by design. It's an image burn-in avoidance scheme and is normal. If switching inputs restores the image intensity then I think the issue has been addressed.
Yes, my mistake again. Trying to get help on the forum is difficult for a third party that isn't me and I wasn't there. I have to make some assumptions and can't really get the story straight.

Still though, any image burn-in avoidance scheme should turn off automatically once the signal is no longer stagnant. Switching inputs is a usable work around and far superior to power cycling the TV, but it's not really a fix.
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post #12888 of 12895 Unread 11-14-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
Yes, my mistake again. Trying to get help on the forum is difficult for a third party that isn't me and I wasn't there. I have to make some assumptions and can't really get the story straight.

Still though, any image burn-in avoidance scheme should turn off automatically once the signal is no longer stagnant. Switching inputs is a usable work around and far superior to power cycling the TV, but it's not really a fix.
I have the 6010 and I've never used the pause function long enough to see the image dim, and there is no way I'm going to test to see how long it takes. I doubt that my set has ever been paused for as much as five minutes.

If your friend makes a habit of staying away for long periods of time he should use something other than pause.
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post #12889 of 12895 Unread 01-06-2015, 08:51 PM
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My Pro-1150HD is slowly dying. At last check I could operate the TV normally but when I press TV Guide I get a black screen only and have to power off. Also the TV is running for 5 - 10 minutes and will power itself off and blink 12 times.

Is there a service menu reset that I can try WITHOUT special equipment? If so what is the process once I enter the service menu?

With TV Guide going offline in March of last year is there a way to disable the TV Guide program (IPG) Interactive Program Guide but leave the tuner active? I use the tuner to bring in digital over the air channels to tuner A.

I was unable to locate a "disable auto clock" in the menu.

Looking to see if I can stop the bleeding where I am at with a factory reset or has the damage been done....

Main board refurbishing is 70 bucks on Ebay right now through Techtronics1234

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Servi...:X:AAQ:US:1123

Contacted him and he says main board part number is the same as the PDP-6010HD

Thoughts?

BB
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post #12890 of 12895 Unread 01-06-2015, 08:51 PM
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My Pro-1150HD is slowly dying. At last check I could operate the TV normally but when I press TV Guide I get a black screen only and have to power off. Also the TV is running for 5 - 10 minutes and will power itself off and blink 12 times.

Is there a service menu reset that I can try WITHOUT special equipment? If so what is the process once I enter the service menu?

With TV Guide going offline in March of last year is there a way to disable the TV Guide program (IPG) Interactive Program Guide but leave the tuner active? I use the tuner to bring in digital over the air channels to tuner A.

I was unable to locate a "disable auto clock" in the menu.

Looking to see if I can stop the bleeding where I am at with a factory reset or has the damage been done....

Main board refurbishing is 70 bucks on Ebay right now through Techtronics1234

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Servi...:X:AAQ:US:1123

Contacted him and he says main board part number is the same as the PDP-6010HD

Thoughts?

BB
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post #12891 of 12895 Unread 01-06-2015, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennybone View Post
My Pro-1150HD is slowly dying. At last check I could operate the TV normally but when I press TV Guide I get a black screen only and have to power off. Also the TV is running for 5 - 10 minutes and will power itself off and blink 12 times.

Is there a service menu reset that I can try WITHOUT special equipment? If so what is the process once I enter the service menu?

With TV Guide going offline in March of last year is there a way to disable the TV Guide program (IPG) Interactive Program Guide but leave the tuner active? I use the tuner to bring in digital over the air channels to tuner A.

I was unable to locate a "disable auto clock" in the menu.

Looking to see if I can stop the bleeding where I am at with a factory reset or has the damage been done....

Main board refurbishing is 70 bucks on Ebay right now through Techtronics1234

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Servi...:X:AAQ:US:1123

Contacted him and he says main board part number is the same as the PDP-6010HD

Thoughts?

BB

Benny- this thread has a lot of valuable information in it. I have the 1150HD and had "similar issues". Find the post on resetting you set to factory settings. Here is the problem and an inherent fault with these sets. When initially purchased new, one should never activate the TV GUIDE FEATURE. it causes problems down the line. Sometimes faster than others. Mine happened and I reset to factory default and then when asked about TV GUIDE? SAY NO!!! Do not enable it. It cleared up all my problems so far and it's been over 1-year. Good luck. It's a bad ass plasma with one Beautiful Picture IMHO.
Herman8or~
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post #12892 of 12895 Unread 01-07-2015, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mittene View Post
Just a heads-up for anyone experiencing the blinking blue LED light problem. My 4280 just started having the problem where it blinks 12 times repeatedly & the TV turns off by itself after being on anywhere from about 5 to 20 minutes. So after looking around here and a couple of other threads I tried some of the suggested troubleshooting steps, but the following did not work:

-Unplugging the set, waiting 15 minutes, then plugging the set back in
-Changing the zip code in the TVGOS setup to a nearby local zip
-Changing the zip code in the TVGOS setup to 00000
-The TVGOS diagnostics submenus wouldn't even work for me as the main diagnostic menu froze and I could no longer navigate. (Had to turn the set off to get out).

The good news is that I already had my settings written down, so I decided to go with the factory reset procedure. When going through the steps, I came across the same issue that some had where you get a "final setup abort" message, telling you go power down the set. After that message popped up I still waited the 1 minute before powering down and unplugging the set, and then waited at least 5 minutes before plugging it back in. Then, a few seconds after turning the set back on, the TVGOS setup screen came on. I skipped the setup by selecting the "don’t remind me again” option.

It has been a few hours now, and problem seems to have been solved. The factory reset worked in spite of the abort message that had popped up. The regular menu settings (picture, sound, etc.) did go back to their defaults. As for the service menu settings, I want to wait a day or two to make sure that all is still well before going back in there to change the settings that I had changed. I’m guessing that the settings in the service menu did actually revert to the factory defaults because my side mask color reverted back to its original color.

Thanks to all who have provided us with these troubleshooting procedures! I hope this post helps out anyone who runs into the “final setup abort” issue – you might not have to freak out like I did when it popped up.
Update, the above worked to fix the display. A factory reset through the Integrators Menu continuing through the Final Setup Abort message and waiting the specified times as outlined here

Quote:
Originally Posted by garyalex67 View Post


With TV off/in standby....press home menu.
Within 3 seconds turn TV on , Integrated Menu will appear.
Hold Display button until Final Setup appears in the top menu.
Arrow left or right until yes appears in lower menu.
Hold enter until menu disappears.
Wait 1 minute.
Power TV off and unplug from the wall for 5 or more minutes.
Thanks everyone, hopefully a couple of more years of trouble free service should do it.

BB
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post #12893 of 12895 Unread 01-07-2015, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennybone View Post
Update, the above worked to fix the display. A factory reset through the Integrators Menu continuing through the Final Setup Abort message and waiting the specified times as outlined here



Thanks everyone, hopefully a couple of more years of trouble free service should do it.

BB

Benny - that's the menu I wanted you to get to. TV GUIDE DONT REMIND ME AGAIN. congratulations! Let me know how long the fix works. Hopefully years!
Herman8or~
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post #12894 of 12895 Unread Today, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
Hope someone can help a friend of mine. He has an 8G Elite and says that if the image doesn't change for a long time, the screen dims. Problem is, when he then unpauses, the screen still stays frozen and the only fix seems to be power cycling the Kuro. This occurs from multiple sources (xbox360, PS3, and PS4), all connected by HDMI. His power saver setting is turned off.

Any ideas?
My 8G non-elite (5080) does the same thing. My workaround has been to switch the power saving level to a different level (off, 1, 2) and back. Not ideal but the auto brightness limiting (ABL) doesn't "snap back" for some reason.
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post #12895 of 12895 Unread Today, 03:37 PM
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My ~5 year old Pro-1150HD is still working trouble free. It will be a sad day if it dies one day. To this day, long after others jumped on the HDTV bandwagon and upgraded to flat screens, people comment how good my picture is compared to theirs. I am hoping my elite holds out until when and if 4K becomes the new standard and has lots of available content.

"It's not a lie if you believe it's the truth" --- George Costanza
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