The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 430 - AVS Forum
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post #12871 of 12888 Old 05-17-2014, 11:39 AM
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I've tried a few times to get into the service menu on my 5080. I just want to check the hours used. I start with the tv OFF, I've tried with the set powered completely off and in standby. Then press Display, wait 3 seconds (Saying one thousand One etc, ) Then Left, Up, Left, Right, and Power. My set comes on but I see nothing, it tells my it's set to input 5, but I never see the Info Page. I assume it's a timing thing and I'm just not holding my tongue right. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or doing something out of sequence. I think I did this once before years back after reading how on this forum. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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post #12872 of 12888 Old 05-18-2014, 08:33 PM
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DLDUKES,
once you are in the service menu, select INFORMATION then HOUR METER. THe note I see is (after entering Factory mode, press DOWN five times).
Mike

Mike
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post #12873 of 12888 Old 05-18-2014, 11:15 PM
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You literally need to hold the remote next to the sensor on the tv to check the hours.
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post #12874 of 12888 Old 05-22-2014, 03:39 PM
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Thanks, folks, I've tried a few more times, Last time with the damn remote right up against the ir sensor. no love. I see the remote's red light flash with each press, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Not the end of the world, but I know I did it once before years back.
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post #12875 of 12888 Old 06-08-2014, 02:08 AM
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Is it Worth Getting my TV Professionally Calibrated

not sure how many hours it has but here is what my tv says
its a PRO110FD

Hour Meter
Panel 021088H 44M
MTB 058389H 55M

P-Count 00005247 TIMES

Not sure what my hours are and what panel and MTB is

Thanks
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post #12876 of 12888 Old 06-08-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konfusion View Post

Is it Worth Getting my TV Professionally Calibrated

not sure how many hours it has but here is what my tv says
its a PRO110FD

Hour Meter
Panel 021088H 44M
MTB 058389H 55M

P-Count 00005247 TIMES

Not sure what my hours are and what panel and MTB is

Thanks
You can read other owners comments about their Kuro calibrations using the link in the signature area at the bottom of my post. Flat panel reports are in post number two.
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post #12877 of 12888 Old 08-24-2014, 04:41 PM
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I'm not sure how active this thread is but I figured to start here.

After moving my family (and my Kuro) to a new home I've decided it's time to sell my PDP-6010FD. I'm writing to get anyone's advice as to the best way to get this done. Obviously this is a huge TV and would have to be a local sale (Minnesota) but just curious if anyone has had success buying or selling a Kuro recently.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Craigslist is of course an option for a local sale but I'm wondering how knowledgeable the buyers are in that market.

I have totally babied the TV and it's great, it just doesn't work in my set up anymore.
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post #12878 of 12888 Old 08-24-2014, 04:41 PM
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I'm not sure how active this thread is but I figured to start here.

After moving my family (and my Kuro) to a new home I've decided it's time to sell my PDP-6010FD. I'm writing to get anyone's advice as to the best way to get this done. Obviously this is a huge TV and would have to be a local sale (Minnesota) but just curious if anyone has had success buying or selling a Kuro recently.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Craigslist is of course an option for a local sale but I'm wondering how knowledgeable the buyers are in that market.

I have totally babied the TV and it's great, it just doesn't work in my set up anymore.
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post #12879 of 12888 Old 09-14-2014, 10:58 PM
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PDP-6010FD Reference Settings

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Updated 3/27/2008

Pioneer 5010FD/6010FD Reference Settings

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 33
Brightness: 0
Color: -10
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2 (Dot by Dot Stretch Mode) Mode 1 (All other Stretch Modes)


Note:
  • The color setting has been set to bring the overall color saturation to levels where everything "appears" correct. Feel free to change the color setting to your liking.
Hello D-Nice,

I used the settings you posted on the first page, however, my TV is looking REALLY flat/yellow. When i changed color temp to low i really noticed it. Colors dont pop and the whites are a light yellow. Do you have any new or updated settings i can try or a way to calibrate the tv myself? Mine has about 18,000 hours so idk if that has affect color settings over time. Also, I bought the TV second-hand and dont know if it was calibrated beforehand

thanks in advance for your help and the abundance of knowledge youve posted on this forum



_n.
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post #12880 of 12888 Old 11-12-2014, 06:51 PM
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Hope someone can help a friend of mine. He has an 8G Elite and says that if the image doesn't change for a long time, the screen dims. Problem is, when he then unpauses, the screen still stays frozen and the only fix seems to be power cycling the Kuro. This occurs from multiple sources (xbox360, PS3, and PS4), all connected by HDMI. His power saver setting is turned off.

Any ideas?
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post #12881 of 12888 Old 11-12-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
Hope someone can help a friend of mine. He has an 8G Elite and says that if the image doesn't change for a long time, the screen dims. Problem is, when he then unpauses, the screen still stays frozen and the only fix seems to be power cycling the Kuro. This occurs from multiple sources (xbox360, PS3, and PS4), all connected by HDMI. His power saver setting is turned off.

Any ideas?
Is your friend in the habit of pausing the set for long periods of time? I would start with not doing that. But if I did, I would try switching to another input source and back to the original source. That might also work. If his set only uses one input source then change the source further back in the signal path at the AVR.

He may be having a handshake problem which could be caused by a lot of different things.
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post #12882 of 12888 Old 11-13-2014, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
Is your friend in the habit of pausing the set for long periods of time? I would start with not doing that. But if I did, I would try switching to another input source and back to the original source. That might also work. If his set only uses one input source then change the source further back in the signal path at the AVR.

He may be having a handshake problem which could be caused by a lot of different things.
My apologies, I misunderstood him. He says once it dims, it stays dimmed, but everything still works fine...it's just at 50% brightness or so, until he power cycles. So he still sees video, hears audio, can use the remote, can watch movies, can play video games, etc... but all while dimmed.

This is not the source dimming. I know PS4 also dims after period of inactivity, but that's a dimming he can see separately and it wakes up from that. Plus this dimming occurs regardless of the device outputting the video.

I will ask him to try changing inputs as you suggest.
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post #12883 of 12888 Old 11-13-2014, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
My apologies, I misunderstood him. He says once it dims, it stays dimmed, but everything still works fine...it's just at 50% brightness or so, until he power cycles. So he still sees video, hears audio, can use the remote, can watch movies, can play video games, etc... but all while dimmed.

This is not the source dimming. I know PS4 also dims after period of inactivity, but that's a dimming he can see separately and it wakes up from that. Plus this dimming occurs regardless of the device outputting the video.

I will ask him to try changing inputs as you suggest.
It seems that your friend is in the habit of pausing his set for long periods of time. Ask him why.

Also, I'm not sure you got the point of changing to another source and then back to the one he's watching. Even if it's a source without a signal, it will force a handshake which might bring back the brightness without doing a power cycle.
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post #12884 of 12888 Old 11-14-2014, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
It seems that your friend is in the habit of pausing his set for long periods of time. Ask him why.

Also, I'm not sure you got the point of changing to another source and then back to the one he's watching. Even if it's a source without a signal, it will force a handshake which might bring back the brightness without doing a power cycle.
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set". On my 9G remote I have a pause button, but it doesn't cause dimming, and I don't think he's actively pausing anything. I'd assume he's just doing what a lot of people do and walking away to answer the phone, use the restroom, or something and maybe taking longer than expected.

Good news, your advice to switch inputs does in fact make the dimming go away. So that's already an improvement over having to power cycle the TV. I understood the part about HDMI handshaking. I'm giving him the usual advice for that (trying a direct connection with no switchbox/AVRs, trying different cables, trying different input ports, etc).
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post #12885 of 12888 Old 11-14-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set". On my 9G remote I have a pause button, but it doesn't cause dimming, and I don't think he's actively pausing anything. I'd assume he's just doing what a lot of people do and walking away to answer the phone, use the restroom, or something and maybe taking longer than expected.

Good news, your advice to switch inputs does in fact make the dimming go away. So that's already an improvement over having to power cycle the TV. I understood the part about HDMI handshaking. I'm giving him the usual advice for that (trying a direct connection with no switchbox/AVRs, trying different cables, trying different input ports, etc).
Are you saying that your friend walks away from his TV without doing anything, and when he comes back the image has been dimmed? I've never heard of that feature.
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post #12886 of 12888 Old 11-14-2014, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
I don't understand what you mean by "pausing the set".
Well, your original post says, "Problem is, when he then unpauses, ..." so I think that's what is meant. Yeah, pause playback on your device (DVD, BDP, DVR, whatever), leave it paused for some time (I don't know what it is and I've avoided it assiduously on my 6010FD) and the image will dim by design. It's an image burn-in avoidance scheme and is normal. If switching inputs restores the image intensity then I think the issue has been addressed.
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post #12887 of 12888 Old 11-14-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quarlo View Post
Well, your original post says, "Problem is, when he then unpauses, ..." so I think that's what is meant. Yeah, pause playback on your device (DVD, BDP, DVR, whatever), leave it paused for some time (I don't know what it is and I've avoided it assiduously on my 6010FD) and the image will dim by design. It's an image burn-in avoidance scheme and is normal. If switching inputs restores the image intensity then I think the issue has been addressed.
Yes, my mistake again. Trying to get help on the forum is difficult for a third party that isn't me and I wasn't there. I have to make some assumptions and can't really get the story straight.

Still though, any image burn-in avoidance scheme should turn off automatically once the signal is no longer stagnant. Switching inputs is a usable work around and far superior to power cycling the TV, but it's not really a fix.
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post #12888 of 12888 Old 11-14-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post
Yes, my mistake again. Trying to get help on the forum is difficult for a third party that isn't me and I wasn't there. I have to make some assumptions and can't really get the story straight.

Still though, any image burn-in avoidance scheme should turn off automatically once the signal is no longer stagnant. Switching inputs is a usable work around and far superior to power cycling the TV, but it's not really a fix.
I have the 6010 and I've never used the pause function long enough to see the image dim, and there is no way I'm going to test to see how long it takes. I doubt that my set has ever been paused for as much as five minutes.

If your friend makes a habit of staying away for long periods of time he should use something other than pause.
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