Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 176 - AVS Forum
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post #5251 of 5262 Old 07-11-2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chise View Post
To be honest Steve I did not believe this myself till one of my friends did a demo. over my house, I was shock, So I got dedicated 20 amp line with Furutech power outlets with in 4 weeks my burn-ins went away on my screen I have a clear crisp picture now, this is step 2 and I have 4 more to go anything else I pm you.
I am an electrical engineer,

Changing the power lines have nothing to do with quality of electricity unless you want to minimize power losses and voltage drop across high current long lines.
This of course depends on the load current which comes nowhere near enough to heavily load the line in a domestic appliances environment.
Low line voltage may fluctuate depends on the time of the day, but that also does not matter anymore because of switching power supplies.

These have absolutely nothing to do with plasma's uneven phosphor decay.
Don't get me started on Audiophiles... their "theories" are a joke.

So forget the whole "clean electricity" rubbish about TV picture quality (and audio) unless your TV is against a wall and is VERY susceptible to magnetic field of a fully loaded line in the wall or of an extension cord lying near the screen.


Trust in pixel flipper!

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-11-2014 at 08:31 PM.
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post #5252 of 5262 Old 07-11-2014, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
I am an electrical engineer,

Changing the power lines have nothing to do with quality of electricity unless you want to minimize power losses and voltage drop across high current long lines.
This of course depends on the load current which comes nowhere near enough to heavily load the line in a domestic appliances environment.
Low line voltage may fluctuate depends on the time of the day, but that also does not matter anymore because of switching power supplies.

These have absolutely nothing to do with plasma's uneven phosphor decay.
Don't get me started on Audiophiles... their "theories" are a joke.

So forget the whole "clean electricity" rubbish about TV picture quality (and audio) unless your TV is against a wall and is VERY susceptible to magnetic field of a fully loaded line in the wall or of an extension cord lying near the screen.


Trust in pixel flipper!
Can't poorly designed power supplies in various consumer devices impart some ripple in the circuit they are connected to? Unfortunately I don't have 100x probe for my scope of I'd just check it myself. Not saying it makes a difference, a well designed circuit is going to be pretty well regulated on the DC side, but I thought any ripple going into the transformer that feeds any outputs like in an amplifier could make difference, even if it's small.

I know switch mode puts out some nasty RF that can really mess with stuff. But anyone designing a switcher in audio products should be able pick the switching frequency that least affects anything else in the product.

Just learning here.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #5253 of 5262 Old 07-11-2014, 11:05 PM
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You could scope the dc rail but I doubt you'd see anything but a flat line,
unless you bought the PSU (any chinese kind) on ebay for 3.99$.

I agree that poorly designed switcher can wreak havoc in audio equipment (RF, harmonics, oscillation, ripple, etc...).
Although I trust electronic engineers whom by now should have perfected the art of switching.

Definitely closer to the heart of the beast, but still nothing to do with phosphor decay and IR once again...
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post #5254 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
I am an electrical engineer,

Changing the power lines have nothing to do with quality of electricity unless you want to minimize power losses and voltage drop across high current long lines.
This of course depends on the load current which comes nowhere near enough to heavily load the line in a domestic appliances environment.
Low line voltage may fluctuate depends on the time of the day, but that also does not matter anymore because of switching power supplies.

These have absolutely nothing to do with plasma's uneven phosphor decay.
Don't get me started on Audiophiles... their "theories" are a joke.

So forget the whole "clean electricity" rubbish about TV picture quality (and audio) unless your TV is against a wall and is VERY susceptible to magnetic field of a fully loaded line in the wall or of an extension cord lying near the screen.


Trust in pixel flipper!
Slim I don't give dam if don't believe it and big **** you have degree wow I'm really scared.
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post #5255 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
You could scope the dc rail but I doubt you'd see anything but a flat line,
unless you bought the PSU (any chinese kind) on ebay for 3.99$.

I agree that poorly designed switcher can wreak havoc in audio equipment (RF, harmonics, oscillation, ripple, etc...).
Although I trust electronic engineers whom by now should have perfected the art of switching.

Definitely closer to the heart of the beast, but still nothing to do with phosphor decay and IR once again...
Yeah, I'm a mechanical engineer with a concentration in Mechatronics, I don't usually deal with any AC. Pretty much all DC low voltage unless I need "fake" AC low voltage for something. Only thing I've needed that for was measuring the resistance of a wide band O2 sensor element temperature control.

I need an isolator for my scope as well before I do any thing with AC line voltage. I use an old monster of a BK precision switching lab supply. The floating ground is great for hooking up my RC computerized charger to the computer for logging. Great charger but they didn't do anything for the ground loop created when a power supply and computer share the same ground. Without a usb isolator, PS with floating ground (or negative I guess is more appropriate, but I hardly ever use the feature for its intended function), hacking a BT module into the charger, or using a laptop on battery or powering the charger with a battery, they like to fry the usb-serial board in the charger. If you're lucky anyway, as theoretically it could pull charging current ~20 amps through usb, letting all the magic smoke out.

Anyway, when I finally buy a house I'll still have a dedicated circuit for AV gear, with some quality receptacles / power cords. Definitely won't be using any exotic metal plated stuff though. I use all Signal Cable interconnects/cables/power. About the same cost as Monster stuff, but instead of buying a name I'm buying quality custom cables.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #5256 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chise View Post
To be honest Steve I did not believe this myself till one of my friends did a demo. over my house, I was shock, So I got dedicated 20 amp line with Furutech power outlets with in 4 weeks my burn-ins went away on my screen I have a clear crisp picture now, this is step 2 and I have 4 more to go anything else I pm you.
AA Step 2:

Quote:
"Came to believe that a power greater than ourselves could restore us to sanity."

I assume you have a very well lubricated Serpent too...
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post #5257 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post
AA Step 2:




I assume you have a very well lubricated Serpent too...
Well they way I look at this folks on AVS just don't know and they never tried it, and for me, it did not cost me a lot money plus my gear is running fine, do you hear me complaining burn- ins anymore and finally I have not brought a new TV in three years.
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post #5258 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chise View Post
Well they way I look at this folks on AVS just don't know and they never tried it, and for me, it did not cost me a lot money plus my gear is running fine, do you hear me complaining burn- ins anymore and finally I have not brought a new TV in three years.
Well to me the 'S' in AVS supposedly stands for 'Science' and when people report remarkable and immaculate cures I must call BS. I don't doubt you have made your personal peace with IR BUT expensive overpriced power cords and such had nothing to do with it.
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post #5259 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post
Well to me the 'S' in AVS supposedly stands for 'Science' and when people report remarkable and immaculate cures I must call BS. I don't doubt you have made your personal peace with IR BUT expensive overpriced power cords and such had nothing to do with it.
I don't think so either, but who knows? I sure am not going to install any crazy expensive stuff without proof, nor would I recommend it to anyone, but I can't say it's impossible. Being an engineer and grounded in science and logic I can get pretty close though.

Like I said before, I give all my cable money to signal cable. Very good quality, and last time I checked you could even get silver cables for around 200 bucks. Only problem I had were the interconnects I bought around 2003, the RCAs were super tight, and I ended up slipping the termination wrap on the plug body. Well that and I specified the wrong speaker termination on the amp side of the speaker cables I bought at the same time. But that's totally my fault.

Bought some interconnects a few years ago (cheaper versions from what I had) for a birthday present, and they worked out great for my buddy. I highly recommend them. No frills website or marketing, quality vs price speaks for themselves. Plus you can call and he'll make you just about anything you want.

Also, like I said, I'm not going to hesitate to put my gear on 1 or 2 dedicated circuits, with quality outlets and maybe some kind of extra protection on those circuits just to keep the expensive gear somewhat isolated from the rest of the house/any surge sources.

But quality stuff doesn't mean exotic materials and $$$$$$$$ for me. I have very good hearing, but in a blind test I picked the $200 cables over the multi thousand dollar ones. Someone that can afford that stuff, and buys it, will almost always say it sounds better/looks better. How could you not when you drop a couple grand on a cable like HDMI that only carries digital? Digital is digital, as long as the terminations and the contacts are good I don't care if the cable is made up of rhodium plated solid gold strands all encased in 2 inch lead with liquid nitrogen cores with each piece of lead encased with 4 inch (insert some crazy exotic dielectric / shielding here, I've run out of crazy stuff to say lol). Yes that was supposed to sound like I am off my rocker! If what you're connecting has good contacts and terminations in the devices, and the HDMI signal produced from a source plays nice with the sink, then a $5 cable from Fry's (be sure to buy in the computer department because the cables there are way cheaper than the same exact cable being sold under a different SKU in the HT dept) will perform perfectly well as long as the standard you need is met or exceeded.

Same with coax digital and optical. Optical COULD be tricky as there are different types such as single or multi mode, but I've only seen that kind of designation for fibre networks. I don't think you can buy the "wrong cable" for HT, it's either a standard or started as a gentlemen agreement that no one in their right minds w would go against now.

The only things I would consider paying a bit more for are analogue interconnects and speaker cables. Purely for shielding purposes. But you could spend a grand on some well shielded interconnects and make render ask that extra cash useless by having a gang of cabling, or bundling interconnects with speaker cables. I have seen this done more than a few times, by integrators no less. Calibrating or recalibrating someone's display / audio that was installed by a custom installer/integrator. Basically getting the same sound out of thousand dollar cables that you would get out of a run of the mill shielded cable at a 10th of the price if they are installed correctly. Quite unbelievable.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #5260 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Iceberg86300 View Post
I don't think so either, but who knows? I sure am not going to install any crazy expensive stuff without proof, nor would I recommend it to anyone, but I can't say it's impossible. Being an engineer and grounded in science and logic I can get pretty close though.

Like I said before, I give all my cable money to signal cable. Very good quality, and last time I checked you could even get silver cables for around 200 bucks. Only problem I had were the interconnects I bought around 2003, the RCAs were super tight, and I ended up slipping the termination wrap on the plug body. Well that and I specified the wrong speaker termination on the amp side of the speaker cables I bought at the same time. But that's totally my fault.

Bought some interconnects a few years ago (cheaper versions from what I had) for a birthday present, and they worked out great for my buddy. I highly recommend them. No frills website or marketing, quality vs price speaks for themselves. Plus you can call and he'll make you just about anything you want.

Also, like I said, I'm not going to hesitate to put my gear on 1 or 2 dedicated circuits, with quality outlets and maybe some kind of extra protection on those circuits just to keep the expensive gear somewhat isolated from the rest of the house/any surge sources.

But quality stuff doesn't mean exotic materials and $$$$$$$$ for me. I have very good hearing, but in a blind test I picked the $200 cables over the multi thousand dollar ones. Someone that can afford that stuff, and buys it, will almost always say it sounds better/looks better. How could you not when you drop a couple grand on a cable like HDMI that only carries digital? Digital is digital, as long as the terminations and the contacts are good I don't care if the cable is made up of rhodium plated solid gold strands all encased in 2 inch lead with liquid nitrogen cores with each piece of lead encased with 4 inch (insert some crazy exotic dielectric / shielding here, I've run out of crazy stuff to say lol). Yes that was supposed to sound like I am off my rocker! If what you're connecting has good contacts and terminations in the devices, and the HDMI signal produced from a source plays nice with the sink, then a $5 cable from Fry's (be sure to buy in the computer department because the cables there are way cheaper than the same exact cable being sold under a different SKU in the HT dept) will perform perfectly well as long as the standard you need is met or exceeded.

Same with coax digital and optical. Optical COULD be tricky as there are different types such as single or multi mode, but I've only seen that kind of designation for fibre networks. I don't think you can buy the "wrong cable" for HT, it's either a standard or started as a gentlemen agreement that no one in their right minds w would go against now.

The only things I would consider paying a bit more for are analogue interconnects and speaker cables. Purely for shielding purposes. But you could spend a grand on some well shielded interconnects and make render ask that extra cash useless by having a gang of cabling, or bundling interconnects with speaker cables. I have seen this done more than a few times, by integrators no less. Calibrating or recalibrating someone's display / audio that was installed by a custom installer/integrator. Basically getting the same sound out of thousand dollar cables that you would get out of a run of the mill shielded cable at a 10th of the price if they are installed correctly. Quite unbelievable.

Regards,
Steve
That's why you should have good friends not freeloaders.
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post #5261 of 5262 Old Yesterday, 05:48 PM
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That's why you should have good friends not freeloaders.
???????? Who said I have freeloaders as friends and not good friends?

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
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post #5262 of 5262 Old Today, 03:43 AM
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Will turning up the color setting on my plasma to get a more vibrant look hurt it in any way? Will it decrease lifespan or fade colors faster? thats if colors fade on plasma tvs? Im clueless about plasmas
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