Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 177 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #5281 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 07:56 AM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by B T C View Post
Does the Disney WOW pixel flipper cycle through all colors? I'm really hoping it will do something for the IR on my VT60, assuming it's not actual burn in. The built in screen wiper doesn't seem to do anything.
WOW pixel flipper will trigger ABL and limit the pixel brightness, this is not what we want to age the phosphor.
Your best bet is to use R,G,B only slides (they do not trigger ABL) with Max Contrast & Saturation, Vivid Mode, and Panel Brightness on High.

Create Full HD Jpeg, Red, Green, Blue slides. Copy to USB.
Enter Media Player (on the TV), now set Preset on Custom.
Contrast: 100
Brightness: does not matter
Color:100
Vivid Color: On
Adv. Panel Luminance: High.
Everything else: Off

Slideshow settings:
Interval: Long.
Repeat: On.
Everything else: Off/Normal.


No other settings I have tried use more power (measured with a clamp meter) nor are brighter OR more intensive for the phosphor.
James Freeman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5282 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 08:13 AM
Member
 
B T C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 13
What is ABL? Is it some sort of brightness limiter? I've already ordered the WOW dvd, so I'll be giving the pixel flipper a shot. If it doesn't work, maybe I'll try doing what you have suggested, although I'm not sure I have the know how. How would you create a full HD JPEG of those colors? Does it just have to be 1920x1080 in size? Is that what makes it HD? If so, perhaps Microsoft Paint would work.
B T C is online now  
post #5283 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 08:31 AM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by B T C View Post
What is ABL? Is it some sort of brightness limiter? I've already ordered the WOW dvd, so I'll be giving the pixel flipper a shot. If it doesn't work, maybe I'll try doing what you have suggested, although I'm not sure I have the know how. How would you create a full HD JPEG of those colors? Does it just have to be 1920x1080 in size? Is that what makes it HD? If so, perhaps Microsoft Paint would work.
Automatic Brightness Limiter.
Yes, on all of your questions.

I also have WOW, it's a good tool to set few basic settings but not much more (ie. no calibration windows).
Nothing that the free (and extremely good) AVS709HD can't do.

Image Retention is uneven phosphor aging, and the only thing that can be done is to age it some more and hope the the brighter parts will become as dim as the more aged parts (catch up).
You can understand why ABL is not desirable for full phosphor activation or aging, its just slows things down but keeps the room/TV cool.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5284 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 08:44 AM
Member
 
B T C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Assuming it's not actual burn in, it sounds like it should eventually go away from just watching television.

I bought WOW primarily for the pixel flipper. I also threw in the 2nd Edition Spears and Munsil blu ray for some additional calibration tools, and free shipping.
B T C is online now  
post #5285 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 10:21 AM
Member
 
Iceberg86300's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post
My ST60 has about 2800 hours on it. No burn-in but it literally gets INSTANT image retention. Directv menu up for 20 seconds, image retention. And this is with contrast at like 60. It goes away pretty quick but its still super annoying. Why, with this many hours on the tv would it still get image retention so fast? It should be pretty resistant by now. I've tried different panel brightnesses (low-med-high), that didn't help other than panel brightness high lessened the effect of line bleed. Am I just stuck with dealing with temporary IR for the life of this tv? I'm assuming so.
Second instance I've heard about this. I'd contact Panny. This not normal.

Also saw it with someone that reset their pioneer. The voltage are rather sensitive and he didn't know what he was doing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
Question about phosphor aging.
Why the various shades of grey (including white) slides if we can use only 3 most effective ones (Red, Green, Blue) where ABL is not active AND we get the fastest and most even aging of the phosphors?

Why not just blast the TV with R,G,B at 100% Contrast, High Panel Brightness, Vivid mode? What are the cons?
That should settle the phosphors (and everything else) in no time.
Greyscale slides are created by combining equal RGB. That is why grey scale slides are used for white balance and calibrating to d6500. Also great for aging. Your greyscale may be horrible, but it doesn't really matter. The various IRE levels are put together with various amounts of color. 100 IRE will command 100% of each color, 90 IRE 90% color. So using a 100 IRE slide for 5 minutes would be equal to running 100% of R, G, B, for 5 minutes each.

As far as I can tell (not up 100% on plasma tech) the flippers shock the cells, which I believe is thought to be more effective at getting rid of residuals in the cells. No clue if this is backed up by anything or not.

When I got my ISF cert in 05 or 06 the consensus was to "season" a plasma using a 70-90 IRE slide (can't remember if there was a hard number). The same method was recommended for getting rid of IR.

There is a bit of a flaw in all the methods, each color ages at a different rate, especially when young. Not a big deal when performing accelerated ageing using patterns before a calibration because the whole point is to get out of the phase in which the cells change more quickly. Then calibration can be performed to get the correct white balance.

But the cells are still going to age at a different rate, although it is nowhere near the rates you see with young cells. The more you use patterns or flippers the more pronounced the uneven ageing will be, although again, so nowhere near what is seen on young cells. This is why recals are performed more often on plasmas.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
Iceberg86300 is online now  
post #5286 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 10:27 AM
Member
 
Iceberg86300's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Forgot to add that I'd be very interested in seeing measurements on a brand new plasma, and then the same measurements on a plasma that has undergone accelerated aging.

It would also be very interesting to calibrate a brand new plasma, then take measurements after the accelerated aging.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
Iceberg86300 is online now  
post #5287 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 10:34 AM
Newbie
 
Gerbilicous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceberg86300 View Post
Second instance I've heard about this. I'd contact Panny. This not normal.

Also saw it with someone that reset their pioneer. The voltage are rather sensitive and he didn't know what he was doing. ....
I have an ST60 as well. Broke it in and things were good. only noticed IR after static image for long time. Have it connected to HTPC and knew to always be careful. Think it was after 6 months or so family was visiting and I came home and I had the taskbar and some other IR arounds sides. I used screen wipes and it helped but never fully went away. Can make out some program icons in bottom left when there's a lighter background. Now been 6 months since then and ever since, I have the same problem of instant IR. Within 10-20 seconds of menu or something being on screen and it will stick around for a bit. Settings don't seem to matter. I've been quite disappointed in the it after buying it because of all the great reviews.

Also have this, well not sure what to call it. To me it's this tv as it does not show on my pc monitor. But say when an actor is standing in front of a shelf or something that is a horizontal line behind the face, the lines from the shelf or something will go through the face. Like a shadow or something. Maybe I'll see if I can get a picture of it.
Gerbilicous is offline  
post #5288 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 10:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Cuda1169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 390
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post
My ST60 has about 2800 hours on it. No burn-in but it literally gets INSTANT image retention. Directv menu up for 20 seconds, image retention. And this is with contrast at like 60. It goes away pretty quick but its still super annoying. Why, with this many hours on the tv would it still get image retention so fast? It should be pretty resistant by now. I've tried different panel brightnesses (low-med-high), that didn't help other than panel brightness high lessened the effect of line bleed. Am I just stuck with dealing with temporary IR for the life of this tv? I'm assuming so.
IMO, temporary IR like what you're experiencing is not an issue. Is your temp IR visible under normal viewing or just when checking with certain color slides. If its temp IR that resloves quickly you're likely in good shape. If its a persistent IR image then a pixel flipper could help.

I have my ST50 for 1.5 years now and get differing degress of temp IR but only notice if I go checking for it with slides, which I no longer do. I use my panel for everything from gaming, movies, Netflix and TV and have not had a problem with IR. I was using the Disney WoW pixel flipper every couple weeks in the early months but have gotten out of the habit lately. This past weekend my nieces and nephews were visiting and abused my panel with hours of CoD. I was planning on running the pixel flipper but didn't have any IR worth worrying about.

With all this in mind, my panel is largely dedicated for my personal use and I do control what it gets used for.
Cuda1169 is offline  
post #5289 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 12:21 PM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post
IMO, temporary IR like what you're experiencing is not an issue. Is your temp IR visible under normal viewing or just when checking with certain color slides. If its temp IR that resloves quickly you're likely in good shape. If its a persistent IR image then a pixel flipper could help.

I have my ST50 for 1.5 years now and get differing degress of temp IR but only notice if I go checking for it with slides, which I no longer do. I use my panel for everything from gaming, movies, Netflix and TV and have not had a problem with IR. I was using the Disney WoW pixel flipper every couple weeks in the early months but have gotten out of the habit lately. This past weekend my nieces and nephews were visiting and abused my panel with hours of CoD. I was planning on running the pixel flipper but didn't have any IR worth worrying about.

With all this in mind, my panel is largely dedicated for my personal use and I do control what it gets used for.
I'll just give a random example. Say we are watching Frozen on Starz (Directv), its an outdoor shot showing the sky. I pause the movie and go into my directv menu to make sure a few of my shows are recording later on that night. Say I'm in there 1 minute browsing the menus. I exit that menu and at the top right of the sky I now see the directv logo and then on other light colored scenes as it fades. It takes about 1-5 minutes worth of regular watching for it to go away but it always (knock on wood) does. I've never had burn in and I have never checked for IR on slides. I normally don't even have persistent IR really. I keep my contrast relatively low (60) when gaming with HUDS or watching a logo'd channel such as history and everything fades away pretty quick.

I'm thankful that it goes away really quick, I just figured at this stage with around 3000 hours IR wouldn't really show up unless I'm at like 80+ contrast and in the menus for 5 minutes or better. Still the best tv I've ever owned, and I love it, but its just annoying. Could be worse I suppose.
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5290 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 03:58 PM
Member
 
2907Laz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerbilicous View Post
I have an ST60 as well. Broke it in and things were good. only noticed IR after static image for long time. Have it connected to HTPC and knew to always be careful. Think it was after 6 months or so family was visiting and I came home and I had the taskbar and some other IR arounds sides. I used screen wipes and it helped but never fully went away. Can make out some program icons in bottom left when there's a lighter background. Now been 6 months since then and ever since, I have the same problem of instant IR. Within 10-20 seconds of menu or something being on screen and it will stick around for a bit. Settings don't seem to matter. I've been quite disappointed in the it after buying it because of all the great reviews.

Also have this, well not sure what to call it. To me it's this tv as it does not show on my pc monitor. But say when an actor is standing in front of a shelf or something that is a horizontal line behind the face, the lines from the shelf or something will go through the face. Like a shadow or something. Maybe I'll see if I can get a picture of it.
This is called Line Bleed. It's normal for plasmas. I think they all have it to a degree.
2907Laz is offline  
post #5291 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 06:49 PM
Senior Member
 
Cuda1169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 390
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post
I'll just give a random example. Say we are watching Frozen on Starz (Directv), its an outdoor shot showing the sky. I pause the movie and go into my directv menu to make sure a few of my shows are recording later on that night. Say I'm in there 1 minute browsing the menus. I exit that menu and at the top right of the sky I now see the directv logo and then on other light colored scenes as it fades. It takes about 1-5 minutes worth of regular watching for it to go away but it always (knock on wood) does. I've never had burn in and I have never checked for IR on slides. I normally don't even have persistent IR really. I keep my contrast relatively low (60) when gaming with HUDS or watching a logo'd channel such as history and everything fades away pretty quick.
Does this always happen or just when the panel is first turned on. If the panel is warmed up it shouldn't exhibit much IR from cable menus. It could be an issue but it seems to fade quickly.
Cuda1169 is offline  
post #5292 of 5306 Old 07-16-2014, 08:50 PM
Member
 
Iceberg86300's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda1169 View Post
Does this always happen or just when the panel is first turned on. If the panel is warmed up it shouldn't exhibit much IR from cable menus. It could be an issue but it seems to fade quickly.
Sounds like it's warmed up.

garnettrules21: First of all, are your anti IR features enabled? What kind of settings are in there? If you've messed around with those, or changed a bunch in the picture menus, you may want to default the TV. This MAY help things out. Don't forget to write down your settings if you do this. Remember that each input gets its own settings, this goes for each picture mode on that input. Not sure if the IR prevention is global or not, might want to check that. Did you change any setting before this started happening? Slow progression or did this just start one day? Or did it start faintly and progress quickly? (see comment with smiley after it if the questions have already been answered)

Can you run a test? basically the same example you have given, just performed when the TV is cold, and then again when the TV has been on for around a half hour. Check to see if one is worse than the other. Before doing this you should run the flipper or use a bright greyscale or white pattern so you know your working with a clean screen. Do the warmed up portion first so you can clear the IR, then you know that the cold test is starting fresh.

Also repeat the same without pausing that scene of possible.

Can't remember if you have a test pattern source or not and I'm lazy so I didn't go back in the thread [emoji6]

If you don't you should go through the process of getting a version of the AVS709HD material. Good for front panel calibration and general testing. And it's free, so you won't regret putting in a bit of work to get the material that will work with your setup and capabilities (like if you don't a BD burner (I don't), do you have DVD burner / BD player combination that will allow you to use a DVD, or will you have to go the usb route, etc). All the info you need is in that thread.

When you have patterns more tests can be run.

Regards,
Steve

Regards, (for the vast majority of people :-p)

Steve
Iceberg86300 is online now  
post #5293 of 5306 Old 07-17-2014, 08:56 AM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceberg86300 View Post
Sounds like it's warmed up.

garnettrules21: First of all, are your anti IR features enabled? What kind of settings are in there? If you've messed around with those, or changed a bunch in the picture menus, you may want to default the TV. This MAY help things out. Don't forget to write down your settings if you do this. Remember that each input gets its own settings, this goes for each picture mode on that input. Not sure if the IR prevention is global or not, might want to check that. Did you change any setting before this started happening? Slow progression or did this just start one day? Or did it start faintly and progress quickly? (see comment with smiley after it if the questions have already been answered)

Can you run a test? basically the same example you have given, just performed when the TV is cold, and then again when the TV has been on for around a half hour. Check to see if one is worse than the other. Before doing this you should run the flipper or use a bright greyscale or white pattern so you know your working with a clean screen. Do the warmed up portion first so you can clear the IR, then you know that the cold test is starting fresh.

Also repeat the same without pausing that scene of possible.

Can't remember if you have a test pattern source or not and I'm lazy so I didn't go back in the thread [emoji6]

If you don't you should go through the process of getting a version of the AVS709HD material. Good for front panel calibration and general testing. And it's free, so you won't regret putting in a bit of work to get the material that will work with your setup and capabilities (like if you don't a BD burner (I don't), do you have DVD burner / BD player combination that will allow you to use a DVD, or will you have to go the usb route, etc). All the info you need is in that thread.

When you have patterns more tests can be run.

Regards,
Steve
Yea this happens no matter if the tv has been on 5 minutes or 5 hours. Pretty much since I've owned the tv its been about the same. Pixel Orbiter is always on (not auto). Every setting under the sun has been changed and messed with in trying to figure this out. I usually end up using a mix of either cadets or dnice's settings in the end but Pixel Orbiter is always on for every setting/input. No random setting has been enabled or disabled.

I always thought of doing a factory reset but figured its probably not necessarily a settings issue at this point but maybe the voltages on the board are out of whack causing this or something. And really didn't want to have to go back after a factory reset and re-enter every single setting. I mean I've "reset settings to default" several times throughout the 2800 hours and nothing has changed. Like I said before though, its all temporary and have never had burn-in, just this annoying short lived instantaneous IR.
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5294 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 11:56 AM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
@garnettrules21 , everybody.

Here is what I do to remove even the most stubborn IR (nothing else worked, WOW, Slides, etc..):

First, understand that the fastest burn-in or IR created when a flash of white appears on a completely black screen,
for example your enter the Menu on a black background, or using the Plasma as the main PC monitor.
To prevent this change the background to grey or white if you use a PC connected to the Plasma, or as your Home Screen TV background image.

Now download this small (2MB) video file: IR Remover Video

This video is a thin (important) line that moves across the screen that will simply "cook" phosphors quicker than anything else (and remove IR).
Its important that its THIN (unlike the one that's in the menu) to simulate the quick flash of white on a black screen.

Open this with your PC Media Player (I use MPC-HC for a reason) and play this file with maximum Contrast.
I also select in MPC-HC to exit after playback to return to the white background.
Now lower the Contrast back to normal.

Maybe it can be done on a USB stick with the TV built in Media Player?
I'll try later.

I also found a great method to clearly see all the IR's on a Panasonic TV.
1. Click the 3D button on the remote.
2. Click RED button (Manual).
3. Select 2D -> 3D.
4. Change your background to Black (try not to enter the menu).
5. Look for IR.

What 3D mode does is elevate the native black level of the TV along with all the IR so that they are CLEARLY visible.
You can return to normal 2D mode by clicking 3D button on the remote and selecting 2D.
Make sure you return the white background.


If something is not clear, ask.
Hope that helps.

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-19-2014 at 12:29 PM.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5295 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 06:22 PM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Thanks man, I downloaded it and another one similar but with a bit wider line. Have them playing on the tv now. I saved them to a USB drive. Do they just loop by themselves or is there a setting to enable? I've never used the USB plug before so I wasn't sure how video playback was.

Edit: never mind, just just saw the video options with repeat playback. We'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5296 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 08:05 PM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
@garnettrules21

How did it go?

2-3 runs (each 6 minutes) of this video is PLENTY, you do not need the repeat function.
It removed all my menu IRs with just 2 runs, whether WOW pixel flipper and Slides did nothing for hours... days.

I think IR is more about cell gas excitation than phosphor, where the gas will not fully "relax" after a huge brightness delta.

Burn-in is uneven phosphor aging which takes tens (if the TV is new) or hundreds of hours, but if its created "in a flash" its IR.
The screen can be evenly flashed so that it appears even, although it raises the (fully relaxed) black level slightly, or not.
I'll have to measure.

I think I'll experiment some more on my brand new (150 hours) ST60, for sciense and glory.

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-19-2014 at 08:59 PM.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5297 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 09:59 PM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Played lego marvel for about 2.5 hours with contrast at 60 and got some solid IR from it (hud is on about 90% of the game). Running your video now for 15 mins at 100 contrast & panel brightness high to see how it goes. Will report back.

Edit: Didn't fully remove it but did lighten it a good amount. Definitely noticed ABL never kicked in. I wish it did move faster back and forth to get more swipes on the areas. It's a good tool though along with my other one I downloaded will be nice additions.

Last edited by garnettrules21; 07-19-2014 at 10:30 PM.
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5298 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 10:43 PM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
All the speeds you need: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...2s&usp=sharing

Whats your VSUS set to in the service menu?
James Freeman is offline  
post #5299 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 11:00 PM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
I've never ventured into the service menu before cause I'm sure I would screw something up. I'm assuming that VSUS refers to something regarding voltages?
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5300 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 11:03 PM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Yes.

Try running the thin line for another 10 minuter.

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-19-2014 at 11:08 PM.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5301 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 11:09 PM
Senior Member
 
garnettrules21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Does VSUS get messed up along the way or out of the factory set incorrectly?

I ended up venturing into the service menu like a renegade, I was nervous lol. My VSUS is set to low.

Also I think my other version of the IR remover is one of the other faster/larger versions you posted. Is there a reason you prefer the slow/thin one as to the others? I don't think any activate ABL at all.

Last edited by garnettrules21; 07-19-2014 at 11:33 PM.
garnettrules21 is online now  
post #5302 of 5306 Old 07-19-2014, 11:33 PM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Yes default is Low.
Maybe your VSUS set to high, but I'm not sure myself how VSUS effects IR, or at all.

I prefer the thin line because it turns on and off the pixels quicker than the thick line.
In my oppinion it stimulates the plasma cells & phosphor better.

@garnettrules21
Did you try the 3D mode IR test?
It'll show you even the faintest IR on a black screen (simply unplug the HDMI cable).

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-20-2014 at 02:38 AM.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5303 of 5306 Old 07-20-2014, 08:58 AM
Member
 
B T C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
Yes.

Try running the thin line for another 10 minuter.
I downloaded this video. Aside from the width of the bar and the scrolling speed, is there any difference in comparison to the built in screen wiper utility on the VT60 & ZT60?

I ran the WOW pixel flipper overnight and this video for a little while this morning. I can't really tell if the IR on my set has changed at all sine I first noticed it, which is a bit discouraging. I've had the set for about 4 weeks now and it had about 1000 hours on it at time of purchase. I really hope this isn't permanent.
B T C is online now  
post #5304 of 5306 Old 07-20-2014, 09:12 AM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by B T C View Post
I downloaded this video. Aside from the width of the bar and the scrolling speed, is there any difference in comparison to the built in screen wiper utility on the VT60 & ZT60?
The difference is that it does not trigger the ABL circuitry.
In effect you get maximum brightness that the TV is capable in this thin line.

Whatever you do, NEVER pause this video.
Its the kind of things that are the best and the worst combined.

Did you try to see your IR using the 2D->3D trick?
What IR do you have? menu?

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-20-2014 at 09:18 AM.
James Freeman is offline  
post #5305 of 5306 Old 07-20-2014, 09:30 AM
Member
 
B T C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
The difference is that it does not trigger the ABL circuitry.
In effect you get maximum brightness that the TV is capable in this thin line.

Whatever you do, NEVER pause this video.
Its the kind of things that are the best and the worst combined.

Did you try to see your IR using the 2D->3D trick?
What IR do you have? menu?

So the built in screen wiper kicks in the ABL?


I haven't tried the 3D suggestion yet.


My IR is along the bottom part of my screen where static station logos or scoll bar images would be present. I can make out a bit of an NBC logo in the bottom right corner, and there is some other stuff in approximately the same location but you can't really make out anything other than the fact it's there, and a thin line that kind of goes across the entire screen that would more than likely have been the top border of a news scroller. I can't really see it unless there is a light image on the screen and if I didn't know it was there I might never notice it. But now that I know it's there, I can't not notice it.
B T C is online now  
post #5306 of 5306 Old 07-21-2014, 11:02 AM
Member
 
James Freeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Here is this line video in Slides (100 photos): Anti IR Line Slides.zip
Better to use these slides on a USB instead of the video because the video shows its interface each time it repeats.

First frame (00) is completely black to test for faint IR in 3D mode*.
Last frame (97) is completely white to pause the slide show on it and change the preset back to a normal one.

Here is how I use these slides to remove stubborn IR:

Use the Short/Fast display Interval.
Play the last slide 97 (White) first but don't start the slideshow.
Change the Contrast to 100% and Panel Brightness to High (I have a preset ready for that, I just click Picture and select it fast).
Start the slideshow by pressing OK and immediately press the Info twice to remove the interface (I run these slides all night).
Now (in the morning) pause the slideshow on the White frame and change the Preset back to your normal calibrated one.
Go to work... or not.

* To check for faint IR you can select the Black frame (use your normal contrast preset) and enter 3D mode by pressing the 3D button on the remote and OK.
Now you can clearly see all the IR you have.
To return to normal press the 3D button and OK again, and exit Photo viewer.


Whatever you do, DON'T freeze/pause these slides on any frame except the white one.
You can always press the Return button to exit the slideshow, but don't forget to switch back to your normal Preset (I use the white slide for that).

Cheers.

Last edited by James Freeman; 07-21-2014 at 11:11 AM.
James Freeman is offline  
Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

Tags
Samsung Hpt4254 42 Inch Plasma Hdtv , Pioneer Pro110 Pro 110fd Pro 110fd Tv Pro110 Kuro 50 Plasma Hdtv , Panasonic Th 50px75u 50 Inch 720p Plasma Hdtv , Playstation 3 160gb System
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off