Master Burn-In/IR/Break In Thread Part II: All Posts Here Only - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 5310 Old 04-01-2008, 04:45 PM
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I've read magazines and posts on this site that say instances of IR pretty much stop after you get a few hundred hours on a plasma. I have about 2000 hours on my Pioneer 4270 now and I still get IR after only about 30 minutes of gaming. And that's with the set in game mode. I played for about 90 minutes this weekend and the HUD and ammo counts faded away after 20 minutes of regular TV viewing but it makes me nervous. Especially when I see there are people that say they game for hours and never see a hint of IR. What gives? Is this normal or is my set just more susceptible to IR than other Pioneers?
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post #152 of 5310 Old 04-02-2008, 06:43 AM
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well, I hope using the burn in dvd will help break my new LG plasma from having a lot of IR.

I'm almost not happy about this fact with plasmas. This is my first one after coming from LCDs. I never had problems with the LCDs.

I also then see all this stuff about the "green flicker" or whatever. I have yet to try anything fast paced but I have to worry about this now. I know LCDs have thr ghosting and it depends on the TV and the person to how much there is. I did not notice too much of it on my 32in LCD when using the PC to play games.

Maybe it's buyers remorse but I don't want to know what will happen if I attempt to retutn the thing because I can see these issues.
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post #153 of 5310 Old 04-02-2008, 10:28 AM
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I just got my 50PZ85U yesterday. I got it all hooked and I am in the Break In process. I have turned off all the special picture adjusters (Color Management, etc). I turned on the Pixel Orbiter to 4. Turned the Picture, Brightness, etc to under 50 (I belive around 40).

The problem that I had been having is creating a copy of the Break In CD/DVD. I was having no luck with any of the tools. In the end I created 7 images, red, black, gray, light gray, dark gray, green and blue. They are all 1920 X 1080. I put them onto an SD card and plugged that into the back of the set. I then started a slide show, with a 10 second pause on each image. I can then leave this running for as long as I want. It just keeps repeating.

First, does this sound like it will do the Break In as needed? Second, for those with an SD slot, and if this is a good idea, I will be glad to share the images.

Thanks.
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post #154 of 5310 Old 04-03-2008, 02:09 PM
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i would def appreciate it if you gave it to me
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post #155 of 5310 Old 04-04-2008, 03:56 PM
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I just bought my 5084 on sunday and have put about 80 hrs on it so far (cartoon network overnight). i was hoping to get a bit of clarification as far as break in time and settings go. I have my brightness, contrast, and color all set to about 48 and sharpness set to 10. Are these settings ok? and is the break-in period 100 hrs? 200 hrs? 250? just hearing a lot of conflicting information.

After saying that, I just want to turn my picture settings up to where I'd like them asap so i can play some COD4. Thanks for the help guys.
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post #156 of 5310 Old 04-04-2008, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainmangk View Post

I just bought my 5084 on sunday and have put about 80 hrs on it so far (cartoon network overnight). i was hoping to get a bit of clarification as far as break in time and settings go. I have my brightness, contrast, and color all set to about 48 and sharpness set to 10. Are these settings ok? and is the break-in period 100 hrs? 200 hrs? 250? just hearing a lot of conflicting information.

After saying that, I just want to turn my picture settings up to where I'd like them asap so i can play some COD4. Thanks for the help guys.

the more you wait, the better it will be but i calibrated my 4264 at 100 hours, then at 250. i play games on mine but i just activate the scrolling effect after i'm done and set the sleep timer for 120minutes just as a precaution
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post #157 of 5310 Old 04-05-2008, 07:08 PM
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I just bought a Panny 42PX80 and have been watching for a few hours/day. Last night, I fell asleep while watching a homemade DVD, and I woke up approximately three hours later with the image fixed on the menu screen

To my alarm, the shadow/image of the menu can be seen whenever a black screen is viewed. However, upon confirmation using Video Essentials, there is absolutely no IR on a solid white, red, green, or blue background?

I have been playing Pixar's Cars for about 12 hours straight, and no improvement has been realized. Has anyone heard of this? What kind of damage did I do to my new set?

Thanks,

Ryan
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post #158 of 5310 Old 04-06-2008, 07:57 AM
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all this talk makes me think that plasma IR is far worse than CRT RPTV. Is this correct or I've misconstrued everything written here? Most of my favourite movies (be it on DVD, HD DVD or BD) are in 2.35:1 ratio.

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post #159 of 5310 Old 04-07-2008, 03:31 AM
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I have about a 1 inch vertical black bar on the right side of my plasma. We don't watch programs with side bars or wide screen DVD's. You can't see the bar when you are watching TV. I just notice it when the TV is off. I was wondering what I can do to fix it. Is this burn it?
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post #160 of 5310 Old 04-07-2008, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by affirm View Post

I have about a 1 inch vertical black bar on the right side of my plasma. We don't watch programs with side bars or wide screen DVD's. You can't see the bar when you are watching TV. I just notice it when the TV is off. I was wondering what I can do to fix it. Is this burn it?

What brand of set do you own? I've now 250 hours on my Pioneer 5080 and have not a hint of I/R or burn-in. What are you doing to your set?
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post #161 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 12:33 AM
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newbie here. I bought my first tv ever, it being a TH-42PX80U 42" panasonic plasma 720p.

I popped in this break-in disk and saw black bars. I use zoom mode to fill up the screen, this is right, right?
I popped in batman begins and saw black bars. This is typical as a bunch of movies have slightly different aspect ratios? I should be watching everything in zoom mode for the first 100-200 hours, than after that can watch regular mode ok?
Should I turn orbital up to 4?
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post #162 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 08:27 AM
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I am not suffering from the problem and I hope to keep it that way. I have done quite a few searches but could not find exactly what i was looking for so I am just going to ask.

I purchased a new Pioneer Kuro 50" plasma TV. This being my first HD capable TV I have never really paid attention to any HD channels my cable offers or even the normal channels.

Now that I have it, I have been watching them all and what I see on a numerous amount of channels are the TV's own logo. On Encore Action, I see E Action in the bottom right hand corner of the screen. HD TNT, has HD TNT in the bottom right hand corner. I probably have 30 channels with this. All of them are White in lettering, usually it is the outline of the word, so it does change colors as pictures pass through it but even when it changes to whatever is in the background, you can still always read it.

I hope I explained that correctly so you understand what I am seeing. My question now is will this cause the image burn or retention that I heard about over the years. I know TV's are much better in terms of this but I was just surprised at how many channels I see this kind of thing on and it has me worried. Do I need to be worried?
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post #163 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 08:31 AM
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In the initial stages (first 100 to 500 hours), the recommendation is to be a little extra cautious. Take your settings out of torch mode. If it's a transparent logo, it's usually not a problem, unless you are going to watch many many hours of only that.

But in all honestly, enjoy your display, don't worry about it and don't go looking for problems.

Russ
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post #164 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob13bob View Post

newbie here. I bought my first tv ever, it being a TH-42PX80U 42" panasonic plasma 720p.

I popped in this break-in disk and saw black bars. I use zoom mode to fill up the screen, this is right, right?
I popped in batman begins and saw black bars. This is typical as a bunch of movies have slightly different aspect ratios? I should be watching everything in zoom mode for the first 100-200 hours, than after that can watch regular mode ok?
Should I turn orbital up to 4?

If it's the break in DVD popular here it should fill the screen when set to "full." There should be no black bars.

I would watch everything zoomed to full screen and avoid static images for at least the first 100 hours or so, and limit them for the first 200. That's what I'm doing.

I have orbit set to 1, as that is apparently the most aggressive setting.
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post #165 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave A. View Post

I've read magazines and posts on this site that say instances of IR pretty much stop after you get a few hundred hours on a plasma. I have about 2000 hours on my Pioneer 4270 now and I still get IR after only about 30 minutes of gaming. And that's with the set in game mode. I played for about 90 minutes this weekend and the HUD and ammo counts faded away after 20 minutes of regular TV viewing but it makes me nervous. Especially when I see there are people that say they game for hours and never see a hint of IR. What gives? Is this normal or is my set just more susceptible to IR than other Pioneers?


Dave A
I'm in the same boat. I've had the 4270 for almost a year and still get IR after playing COD4. I guess you just have to keep an eye on it.
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post #166 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob13bob View Post

newbie here. I bought my first tv ever, it being a TH-42PX80U 42" panasonic plasma 720p.

I popped in this break-in disk and saw black bars. I use zoom mode to fill up the screen, this is right, right?
I popped in batman begins and saw black bars. This is typical as a bunch of movies have slightly different aspect ratios? I should be watching everything in zoom mode for the first 100-200 hours, than after that can watch regular mode ok?
Should I turn orbital up to 4?

On the anti-IR feature, Pixel Orbiter, 1 is most aggressive setting to reduce IR. The numbers, 1-4, refer to minutes, in how long between when pixels are shifted on screen. i.e. shiftting pixels every 1 minute, rather than every 4 minutes, will reduce chance of IR the most.

The break-in dvd was generated in 16:9 aspect, so there should be no letterboxing. Check and make sure your dvd player is set to output signal to 16:9 tv, rather than 4:3. All dvd players should have this adjustment in the menu.
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post #167 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 11:05 AM
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Yes, listen to Russ, he is wise. As a general rule, if you've never had problems with image retention on the older tubes you shouldn't worry about it on plasmas.

Patience has its rewards.
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post #168 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 11:53 AM
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Thanks
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post #169 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 03:34 PM
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I really hope someone can give me some advice or help here.

I have a Sammy 5054.

I have taken very good care of it since hour 1. Used Zippy's break-in settings for 300. After that have been using EGHILLs setttings.

Never any problems. IR was very minimal w/ any static images.

Now with about 800-900 hours on my TV IR is becoming a problem. Certain static images....like a score banner during a game becomes retained EXTREMELY quick. After watching one inning of a baseball game on ESPN the score thing is retained or just last night watching the NCAA championship on CBS, by the first commercial. (no more than 10 mins) the score banner is retained.

Now it does fade out w/ in about 5 mins & there in no 'burn in' thank goodness.

But why would IR be getting worse as the TV gets past the 800 hour mark? I do not use any type of torch settings (as stated still using EG's)

What can I do, if anything to try & help this?

Also what should my pixel shift settings be to best help w/ the IR?

P.S. I do zero gaming on the set.
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post #170 of 5310 Old 04-08-2008, 05:29 PM
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all this talk makes me think that plasma IR is far worse than CRT RPTV. Is this correct or I've misconstrued everything written here? Most of my favourite movies (be it on DVD, HD DVD or BD) are in 2.35:1 ratio.

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post #171 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 08:52 AM
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When I get my new plasma this summer/fall I will be posting some test shots for IR sensitivity (I don’t know why more people have not done this?)

Based on my opinion on IR/Burn-in causes I will not be doing a long break in period. Here is what I’ll be doing.

1 – Run a full field white screen for a few hours to normalize the discharge probability, voltage, and delay of all cells.

2 – Test for IR sensitivity using a test pattern and post photos (full black , full white) using long and short exposure times.

Classical IR will show up as a dark spot on a full white field and a bright spot on a full dark field.
Note that 2 types of IR are possible.

1 - Residual wall charge (short lived - minutes)

2 - MgO sputtering (persistent, can be mistaken for burn-in)

Over thinking, over analyzing separates the body from the mind
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post #172 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 12:17 PM
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Well I have the 5044, two of them in fact, basically your tv without the glare screen and side fluff.
I didn’t follow zippybongs advice (a great work of fiction) and I had my sets isf calibrated.

Both my tv’s are running nearly constantly, and one has the weather channel going 50% of its on-time.

The only time I encounter hard IR is when I game for hours on end, but it diminishes in less than 30min of full screen watching. I do not have station DOG’s or residual weather channel info retained more than 5min (maybe less).
My friends are watching the NHL Playoffs at my place and nope, no IR when I check between periods with the scrolling grey/white wash.

Pixel shift is a bit of a gimmick in my experience, I’m pretty sure it only shifts on-screen displays, (Mute icon) not the tv actual image, so it wont help shifting station DOG’s, logos, tickers, bars etc. I don’t even use mine.

I can only advise you reign in the settings, specifically contrast, and see if that helps diminish the IR longevity, although your IR seems pretty typical and not extraordinary. Or you’ll have to zoom1 / zoom2 and lose a bit of the screen while you watch.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Seconds View Post

I really hope someone can give me some advice or help here.

I have a Sammy 5054.

I have taken very good care of it since hour 1. Used Zippy's break-in settings for 300. After that have been using EGHILLs setttings.

Never any problems. IR was very minimal w/ any static images.

Now with about 800-900 hours on my TV IR is becoming a problem. Certain static images....like a score banner during a game becomes retained EXTREMELY quick. After watching one inning of a baseball game on ESPN the score thing is retained or just last night watching the NCAA championship on CBS, by the first commercial. (no more than 10 mins) the score banner is retained.

Now it does fade out w/ in about 5 mins & there in no 'burn in' thank goodness.

But why would IR be getting worse as the TV gets past the 800 hour mark? I do not use any type of torch settings (as stated still using EG's)

What can I do, if anything to try & help this?

Also what should my pixel shift settings be to best help w/ the IR?

P.S. I do zero gaming on the set.

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post #173 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 04:20 PM
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I"ve been selling plasmas for 10 yrs. We have left dvd menus on for 3hrs sometimes on the pioneers and there is some IR but goes away after wacthing hd in full screen in 10 min. I know the cheaper plasmas can burn in or i have IR alot sooner. I think the LG panels come with a white wash screen in the menu or used to. Lcds are crap and good plasma is the sh**.
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post #174 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transam99 View Post

Lcds are crap and good plasma is the sh**.

when you eloquently put it like that, I just HAVE to get a plasma right now!

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post #175 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 05:27 PM
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So to placate the hand wringers and counterattack the LCD trolls I'll repeat a story here that I heard either on another thread or in a plasma related article about IR and burn-in. Apparently a couple of the prominent plasma makers (Panasonic, Pioneer and Samsung I believe) had a static image being shown on some plasmas for 36 hours straight. Afterwards there was obvious some IR which after playing a loop of normal full screen content for some hours was completely washed away.

So the moral of the story is, if IR from a 36 hour static image can be completely washed away you won't have to worry about hours of gaming and watching letterboxed movies. You'd have be doing some major abuse to cause actual burn-in to your screen. And don't listen to the LCD trolls trying to plant seeds of doubt in your mind, they're just jealous cause of their horrid motion blur and bad black levels and color reproduction.
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post #176 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 05:42 PM
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I tend to agree to the above statement. I never own a plasma before, however, during the CRT days, oftentimes people are complaining about burn-in in CRT RPTV. Funny thing is that although most of my favourite movies are in 2.35:1 ratio, even after 6 years of viewing, I don't get any burn in on my CRT RPTV.

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post #177 of 5310 Old 04-09-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

I posted this in another thread on March 19. I have yet to receive a response.

Quote:


In the three or so years that I have been reading this plasma forum (2 lurking, 1 as member,) I do not recall one complaint about actual burn-in. However, I have read an enormous number of posts expressing a fear of burn-in .

If anyone has actual proof of a case of burn-in that has been posted, please link me to it.

Thanks,
Larry

I second this. I'd love to see someone actually provide a real case of burn-in that's happened within the last few generation of plasmas. Otherwise the people who keep trying to spread that bs either need to shut up.
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post #178 of 5310 Old 04-11-2008, 03:53 AM
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Okay...I know this has probably been talked about to the point of being annoying...Burn-in. I have been looking at high-def sets for a while and have been focused on the Sony XBR4 (clearly an LCD). But the other day I checked out the Pioneer Kuro and I thought it was awesome, mainly I liked how plasma handles motion. I know there is a lot of talk about burn-in. How "real" an issue is this? Should I be worried? Is there anything I should watch out for?

-Kaiser
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post #179 of 5310 Old 04-11-2008, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiservt View Post

Okay...I know this has probably been talked about to the point of being annoying...Burn-in. I have been looking at high-def sets for a while and have been focused on the Sony XBR4 (clearly an LCD). But the other day I checked out the Pioneer Kuro and I thought it was awesome, mainly I liked how plasma handles motion. I know there is a lot of talk about burn-in. How "real" an issue is this? Should I be worried? Is there anything I should watch out for?

-Kaiser

Yes....it has been talked about PAST the point of being annoying.

Do some searching!!! Read the OTHER "burn-in" threads....there are PLENTY of them!!!

When are these "burn-in" threads going to end?
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post #180 of 5310 Old 04-11-2008, 04:45 AM
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Look....I understand that I am bring something up again. But I don't think there is a need to be fired up about it. I am a guy asking an honest question. That's all. My respectfully submitted question still stands.
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