1x2 HDMI output switch? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I need an HDMI output splitter where I can toggle one output or the other. The HDMI splitters on monoprice seems to output to both simultaneously, which will negotiate the output to the most common denominator, which defeats what I'm trying to do.

The reason I need this is that I want to output from my DirecTV receiver directly to my TV when watching 3D content, but still send it through GoogleTV/Receiver for normal watching. Unfortunately neither my GoogleTV box nor my A/V receiver are 3D ready, so the only way I can get 3D is by connecting directly to my TV. I'm trying not to lose my GoogleTV integration for the 95% of viewing I do, but also not have to fumble around switching HDMI cables whenever some worthwhile content pops up on ESPN3D.
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post #2 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 04:37 PM
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You need a switch, not a splitter.
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post #3 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 05:27 PM
 
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Check for a switch that can also spoof the EDID to "trick" the devices into thinking everything is 3D compatible. Try contacting Octava, they reportedly have firmware that can force 3D to all devices but I have not gotten a copy to verify it.

One note of caution - that means that devices that don't know about 3D will receivre the 3D data stream. Obviously it will depend upon the device whether it will accept that stream gracefully or not.

I have heard of only matrix switchers having the EDID changing capability, which will up the price.
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post #4 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Andy,

Are there any you can suggest? Octava is way too expensive - cheaper just to buy a new AV Receiver. I don't necessarily need to change the EDID - just switch between outputs, letting the handshake proceed normally.

Maybe I'm over thinking this. For my use case, does "input" and "output" even matter? For instance, can I connect my DirecTV unit to the "output" and my TV and AV Receivers to the "inputs"?
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post #5 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 10:41 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shink View Post

Andy,

Are there any you can suggest? Octava is way too expensive - cheaper just to buy a new AV Receiver. I don't necessarily need to change the EDID - just switch between outputs, letting the handshake proceed normally.


Maybe I'm over thinking this. For my use case, does "input" and "output" even matter? For instance, can I connect my DirecTV unit to the "output" and my TV and AV Receivers to the "inputs"?

You're correct in that as soon as you hook-up to a non-3D device you will lose all 3D capability. The other problem you would be avoiding is that a non-3D receiver will not know where the 3D audio is located (it is in a different part of the stream than for 2D content).

You could record a valid 3D EDID with the HDMI Detective (about $100), then you could connect the DirecTV box to the TV HDMI and then use that to always be able to send out 3D to all devices. But unfortunately your TV would show-up as a stereo device and you would not be able to use multichannel output even when hooked up to an AVR. So, I'm not sure that would work as a solution either.

And, yes, HDMI is directional so you have to hook source outputs to sink inputs (AVR has both). I think another thread had a home modification that could make the Monoprice switch work both ways, but that type of switch is very unusual and won't solve your 3D problem with everything wired together.

Unfortunately, with 3D it takes a full chain of 3D-compatible equipment for 3D to work. It's bad for your setup, but it keeps people from not being able to hear audio or from trying to show 3D content on non-3D screens.
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post #6 of 26 Old 12-23-2011, 12:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah bummer, I guess I'll have to break down and buy a 3D ready receiver. Thanks for the detailed response!

Going to see how long I can survive switching an HDMI cable since I don't anticipate watching all that much 3D content.
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post #7 of 26 Old 12-23-2011, 09:23 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shink View Post

Ah bummer, I guess I'll have to break down and buy a 3D ready receiver. Thanks for the detailed response!

Going to see how long I can survive switching an HDMI cable since I don't anticipate watching all that much 3D content.

The more I thought about it, the more I realized there is a way to do this but it may be just as expensive as a new AVR. What you'll need is the HDMI detective. Then you'll also need a straight 2x1 switch that can handle 3D but doesn't need to spoof the EDID.

For audio, run the Toslink output from the DirecTV box to your receiver. This eliminates the worry about the AVR not being able to receive the audio. Since DirecTV just uses stereo and Dolby Digital, you won't lose anything with the Toslink output.

Now your job would be to find a 2x1 switch that can handle 3D. With the HDMI Detective you'll send the 3D ready EDID. The receiver won't know how to handle that and so you'll use the Toslink input for audio. For Google TV, it should just ignore the 3D part of the EDID it receives from the TV and everything should be fine there.

I don't know if that will be cheaper or not. Sorry I didn't think about this sooner.
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post #8 of 26 Old 12-23-2011, 11:52 PM - Thread Starter
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No need to apologize for free help - I really appreciate it! I'm starting off with a cheapo 2x1 switch and connect it backwards - since it's not powered, I'm hoping it's just a passive device that will "bridge" my connections. I was fully planning on sending audio via toslink - if/when the Sony NSZ-GT1 gets 3D Blu Ray support (or I get a new Blu Ray player), then I'll look into a 3D Ready AVR.

My plan is to have the primary HDMI "path" going from DirecTV -> pasive switch -> Sony NSZ-GT1 -> AVR -> Television-HDMI1 and the secondary "path" going DirecTV -> passive switch -> Televsion-HDMI2 with audio being fed to to the AVR via toslink, either from the DirecTV box (preserving 5.1) or from the TV (probably down to stereo). If the worst case scenario is that I lose 5.1, that's not too bad of a loss for ESPN3D programming.
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post #9 of 26 Old 12-24-2011, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shink View Post

I'm starting off with a cheapo 2x1 switch and connect it backwards - since it's not powered...

Just be aware that most "passive" switches are powered by the HDMI 5V line. You might want to try a mechanical switch as has been suggested before to others in the same situation as you are. Even then, you may need to replace a couple of diodes with jumpers.
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post #10 of 26 Old 01-12-2012, 10:52 AM
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Hi folks, Does anyone have a recommendation for a good 1x2 switch? I have a friend who has one cable box that he wants to use for 2 TV's. He has an IR repeater so the remote is covered but he wants to have output to both tv's from the one cable box. Thanks!!
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post #11 of 26 Old 01-12-2012, 03:16 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ji9988 View Post

Hi folks, Does anyone have a recommendation for a good 1x2 switch? I have a friend who has one cable box that he wants to use for 2 TV's. He has an IR repeater so the remote is covered but he wants to have output to both tv's from the one cable box. Thanks!!

Are both TVs capable of the same resolutions? I assume he is using one of the TVs for audio? Both of those are important for figuring out if a switch will work and what type.

BTW, a second solution with the same PQ would be HDMI to one TV and component to the other.
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post #12 of 26 Old 01-13-2012, 12:49 PM
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They are both 1080p. I suppose it's possible both tv's would be on at the same time but the idea is to be able to watch both tv's from the one cable box. Watch one when they are in the living room and the other in the bedroom. Thanks!
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post #13 of 26 Old 01-13-2012, 01:43 PM
 
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A cheap distribution amp should work. Nothing special - just try to match HDMI revision level of the TVs (likely 1.3a or up).
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post #14 of 26 Old 01-13-2012, 04:43 PM
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Thanks!!
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-24-2012, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Follwing up for other users, a board member mccutchen asked if I had tried this product and I gave it a shot. It does EXACTLY what I wanted it to. If anyone else is looking to implement this same scenario, I can say this product will do exactly this. The box is labeled "IBIS HDMI Bi-Directional Switch" and is Made in China.

My setup is


Code:
                  -> Sony NSZ-GT1 -> AVR -> TV HDMI1
DirecTV -> IBIS -|
    |             -> TV HDMI4
     -> AVR (TOSLINK)
I use a Harmony remote to switch the AVR from HDMI to Toslink and the TV from HDMI 1 to 4. I have to manually hit the button on the IBIS to switch, but since I do it so infrequently (rarely any 3D content worth watching), I'm happy living with that for the time being.

(EDIT: Fixed to use CODE tag)
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post #16 of 26 Old 01-25-2012, 10:12 AM
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I'm not understanding your diagram, but it's always nice when people report back.

Surrounding your text with CODE tags will give you a fixed-width font and let you add multiple spaces.
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-25-2012, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msgohan View Post

I'm not understanding your diagram, but it's always nice when people report back.

Surrounding your text with CODE tags will give you a fixed-width font and let you add multiple spaces.

Thanks Fixed.
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post #18 of 26 Old 02-02-2012, 03:32 AM
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First of all let me start with this Great forum to Find answers to common questions,
Which big name / small name store fail to answer and often misled customers to buy products in their store.

My requirement is similar to above described. I have avr which is getting all inputs from different HDMI producing sources, has 1 Hdmi out which feeds into TV for video. Audio is used from Speaker A terminals from avr.

I recently bought projector And want to use same avr hdmi out. I would only need either TV or Projector on at a time . Currently I am manually plugging out Hdmi cable For TV to watch projector .
This Swell switch looks perfect for my need for switching 1 video to 2 inputs . For projector Audio I am using Avr Speaker B terminals.

BM stores was trying to sell me active splitter ($100+) which I was not convinced I needed that (also I have heard not being reliable)

I have ordered one Will update once I get It to work
Thx
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post #19 of 26 Old 02-02-2012, 07:12 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dar_p View Post

First of all let me start with this Great forum to Find answers to common questions,
Which big name / small name store fail to answer and often misled customers to buy products in their store.

My requirement is similar to above described. I have avr which is getting all inputs from different HDMI producing sources, has 1 Hdmi out which feeds into TV for video. Audio is used from Speaker A terminals from avr.

I recently bought projector And want to use same avr hdmi out. I would only need either TV or Projector on at a time . Currently I am manually plugging out Hdmi cable For TV to watch projector .
This Swell switch looks perfect for my need for switching 1 video to 2 inputs . For projector Audio I am using Avr Speaker B terminals.

BM stores was trying to sell me active splitter ($100+) which I was not convinced I needed that (also I have heard not being reliable)

I have ordered one Will update once I get It to work
Thx

Obviously the HDMI cable connector can be damaged with repeated plugging/unplugging cycles. So finding an alternative is good.

You've confused me with your references to Speaker A and Speaker B outputs. Do you mean that you have different speakers attached for watching TV or projector? Hooking speaker level outputs to a projector is not a good way to handle things so I'm assuming you mean you have separate speakers.

HDMI is funny in that you'll only get a signal that both outputs (sinks) can use even if you only have one display enabled at a time. So if both the projector and the TV have the same capabilities then you'll be OK with a simple switch.

Also I believe the referenced switch is actually an active switch. It just gets its power from the HDMI input line rather than an external source.
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post #20 of 26 Old 02-02-2012, 11:56 AM
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Thx Andy for replying.

To clarify the confusion:
I have separate speakers for TV room and Projector room located near eachother. Since my AVR (Pioneer VSX-1020-K) support seperate speakers outs terminals A & B , either/both speaker terminals can get audio. So I am fine with audio.

Regarding Sink output :
Both TV and projector is 1080P, if thats what you are asking. If you are asking for support like HDMI1.3 HDMI1.4 etc I am not sure what my TV supports.


Its interesting to know if its really an active switch.
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post #21 of 26 Old 02-12-2012, 04:03 PM
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I have an issue and hope to find a resolution on this great forum. I'd like to be able to switch between watching Directv on the same TV either through the AVR or direct to the TV. What do I need to be able to do this? I have 2 available HDMI cables going to the TV (30ft) from the cabinet where the HR24 and the Denon are located.

Denon 4311ci
Samsung 65" LED
Directv HR24

THANK YOU!
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post #22 of 26 Old 02-12-2012, 10:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ynglwyr View Post

I have an issue and hope to find a resolution on this great forum. I'd like to be able to switch between watching Directv on the same TV either through the AVR or direct to the TV. What do I need to be able to do this? I have 2 available HDMI cables going to the TV (30ft) from the cabinet where the HR24 and the Denon are located.

Denon 4311ci
Samsung 65" LED
Directv HR24

THANK YOU!

If you have been reading through the forum, you already know about EDID. So that's your biggest problem. If you simply switch between the two outputs (AVR to TV and TV only), then you'll have an HDMI cable hooked-up to both the TV and the AVR at the same time. At that point HDMI will try to supply you with a signal that is compatible with both. For video it shouldn't matter since the TV and AVR will both be 1080p. For audio, that you are directly hooking up the TV means you'll most likely get stereo-only to both the AVR and the TV.

You could spoof the EDID so that you tell both the HR24 to send multichannel, but then the TV won't have any audio output.

So, if stereo is good enough, then a simple HDMI distribution amp (or splitter) will do. If you want the Dolby Digital multichannel from DirecTV then you would have to decide how you want to handle that. HDMI can only send out one audio track at a time and has to be ready for all sinks (destinations), which is why this becomes a problem.

Your other choice, not using all HDMI, is to output HR24 HD component video to the AVR and then use the HR24's HDMI output to go directly to the TV. Then send S/PDIF digital audio to the AVR as well. This way there is not a loss of picture quality or audio quality and you get both devices hooked-up completely independently. The only downside is that 3D won't work through the AVR (but will directly to the TV). Your Denon will cross-convert the component video to HDMI
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post #23 of 26 Old 03-19-2012, 02:26 AM
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LIGUO offers both 1*2 splitter and 2*1 swithcer, which are compatible with 1080P.
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post #24 of 26 Old 03-19-2012, 06:29 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elevenlg View Post

LIGUO offers both 1*2 splitter and 2*1 swithcer, which are compatible with 1080P.

You only get 1080p if both TVs are 1080p. You only get 5.1-channel if both sinks are 5.1-channel compatible. Sigh...
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post #25 of 26 Old 03-20-2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

You only get 1080p if both TVs are 1080p. You only get 5.1-channel if both sinks are 5.1-channel compatible. Sigh...



Hi Andy
For splitter, 480p,576,720p,1080i and 1080p available.
For switcher, the same shown as above.
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post #26 of 26 Old 03-20-2012, 08:33 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elevenlg View Post

Hi Andy
For splitter, 480p,576,720p,1080i and 1080p available.
For switcher, the same shown as above.

That's wonderful but not my point. You should look up "lowest common denominator" and how it applies to HDMI. Then you'll understand my point.

HDMI can only carry one video and one audio signal at a time. So, anyone's splitter can only have 480p, 720p, 1080i *OR* 1080p at any given time. Not all of the above, just one at any time.

And, please also understand that there are many companies that make HDMI splitters / switches. What I was helping with was an issue where the sinks had different capabilities, which is a very different type of question because HDMI only has one video and one audio signal at a time.
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