HDMI Hotplug protocol? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 02-19-2013, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Moving this from the HTPC section.

I am sure this is not the first thread about the issue how MS handles the hotplug detect. I.e. when you switch off the receiver, displays get messed up. I used the trick to block pin 19 (hotplug). That kind of helps. However, I have now the issue that I get HDCP errors every so often. Does anyone know if pin 19 is involved with HDCP negotiation?
What is the protocol on pin 19? Just +5V or so or a real communication protocol?
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post #2 of 23 Old 02-19-2013, 10:36 PM
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I think the HTPC section was the right place for this question. HPD is very simple. If it is not asserted, the source is supposed to go to the no sink connected state. When it is asserted, the source is supposed to get the EDID of the sink and authenticate. If it is de-asserted and re-asserted, the sink is supposed to start the whole process over. Be aware that some source side chips are capable of detecting a connected sink without HPD being asserted. I suspect the problems you are experiencing are not caused by Microsoft's operating system, but by the drivers supplied by the hardware maufacturer.
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post #3 of 23 Old 02-20-2013, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you know what happens on pin 19? Is this a simple signaling with 0 or 5 V or is there actaul communication on it?

When I look at links like this:
omappedia.org/images/6/60/HDMI.ppt
http://www.cable360.net/ct/operations/bestpractices/23213.html

I start to think that if I put pin 19 alwasy on 5V (i.e. pin 18) then I should not have a problem. But I am not sure...
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post #4 of 23 Old 02-20-2013, 09:50 PM
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A voltage between 2.0V and 5.3V indicates that a sink is attached. A voltage between 0V and 0.8V indicates that no sink is attached. If you are going to connect 5V, you should probably do it through a 1000 ohm resistor like the sink is required to do.
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post #5 of 23 Old 02-20-2013, 10:27 PM
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one question I have... what "trick" did you do on pin 19???
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post #6 of 23 Old 02-20-2013, 11:21 PM
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The usual trick is to disconnect it and let it float at the source. Some folks use a piece of tape.
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post #7 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I was looking for a HDMI Swivel that can be opened to experiment with the 5V.
Came across this one:
http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5711
Seems to indicate there are screws. I am hoping those are real screws and not just decoration.
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post #8 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 01:49 PM
 
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Wow - that's expensive for a coupler adapter, even if it swivels.

The bigger question is whether the connections are soldered inside and how much the signal will be affected by changing its configuration.
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post #9 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 02:12 PM
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IIWY I would use this. Just strip the sheath and the outer shield and you have access to the wires. You can cut them, jump them, or anything else you want.
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post #10 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, but it can be found for less. BTW. There seems to be a model around that is even less:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=18617696
Still seems to have screws.
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post #11 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

IIWY I would use this. Just strip the sheath and the outer shield and you have access to the wires. You can cut them, jump them, or anything else you want.

That would work as well. Just to have to be patient to find the right wires.
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post #12 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 03:08 PM
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You only have to deal with pins 13-19. The others are shielded twisted pairs for the TMDS lines which you don't want to mess with. You do a have a multimeter don't you? If not, you should.
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post #13 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip to find the wires. Yes, I have the tools.
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post #14 of 23 Old 02-22-2013, 03:24 PM
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Sounds like you are good to go. Let us know how it turns out.
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-09-2013, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally get back to this.

I am wondering if there is a color standard for HDMI. The colors of the opened cable match almost what I see here:
http://www.alciro.org/alciro/conectores_26/cable-HDMI_275_en.htm
I am looking for the +5V and hotplug. Otherwise I have to "beep" all of them. I am dealing with some small cables..
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post #16 of 23 Old 03-09-2013, 07:47 PM
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Nope, no standard color code AFAIK. It is not practical to field terminate HDMI cable, so there is really no reason for a standard. Cable manufacturers have access to the color codes in the bulk cable's specifications.
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-26-2013, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Took me a while to get back to this.

The good news it works!

FYI. the purple wire in my cable is "Hotplug" and orange is "+5VDC".
I cut the hotplug wire. I connected the remaining hotplug wire facing the HTPC (tuner/blueray player) to 5V. I left the other side of the hotplug wire "dangling" (the side facing the receiver) I am hoping this is correct.

Now, I just need make it a bit nicer. I am looking for a shielded enclosure to put the opened cable trough.
Maybe something like this, if I can remove the inside:
http://www.hardwarewebwinkel.nl/pi/intellinet-junction-box-cat-5e-stp-512114-intellinet/large/kabels_intellinet_intellinet_512114.jpg
Any ideas are welcome.
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-26-2013, 06:46 PM
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Do a search on "project box".
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post #19 of 23 Old 03-30-2013, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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It turns out the item in my previous post is the best I found. Most of the shielded project boxes would require to drill a hole and/or to pass a cable through a hole.
This doesn't work in my case as the cable as a whole remains intact.
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post #20 of 23 Old 04-02-2013, 05:26 PM
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Would this also eliminate a HDCP handshake problem?

Denon 4520ci, 3 JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, 3 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, 4 Klipsch HIPs, 2 Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, 3 Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000u, and a Yamaha P7000s.
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post #21 of 23 Old 04-02-2013, 09:59 PM
 
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No. EDID possibly. HDCP no.

Why do you think you have an HDCP problem?
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post #22 of 23 Old 04-02-2013, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

No. EDID possibly. HDCP no.

Why do you think you have an HDCP problem?
If I power up my projector first, then receiver then PC everything is fine... If I then switch to a dif input I might get a pic and I might not. If I turn off everything and then power up the projector, then receiver then PS3 everything is fine. When I switch to another input it is hit or miss again. Basically if I switch my input after having a picture I will usually lose my picture even if I switch back to the one that had worked.

Denon 4520ci, 3 JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, 3 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, 4 Klipsch HIPs, 2 Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, 3 Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000u, and a Yamaha P7000s.
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post #23 of 23 Old 04-03-2013, 08:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

If I power up my projector first, then receiver then PC everything is fine... If I then switch to a dif input I might get a pic and I might not. If I turn off everything and then power up the projector, then receiver then PS3 everything is fine. When I switch to another input it is hit or miss again. Basically if I switch my input after having a picture I will usually lose my picture even if I switch back to the one that had worked.

What you are seeing is probably the result of bit errors during the EDID handshake. Try disabling Deep Color to reduce the bandwidth being used. Since this is a PS3, use the procedure explained in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1401078/some-ps3-hdmi-difficulties-explained

You may want to also set Deep Color to "Off" in the TV menu, as well.
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