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post #1 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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So I am having a company come out and mount the plasma on a brick wall. Have to install a power source too, run wires behind wall etc. He stated that they would be using one 30-35 foot HDMI from the tv to a 3x1 switch over to where the bookshelf holds everything. Then use "jumper" HDMI cables 3-5 feet long from the switch to each component.

Anything I should be worried about? Are the HDMI sitches a good thing?

He also said that the ARC on most setups he has dealt with is a pain and only works some of the time. He suggested just using the digital optical on the tv to the sound bar I am buying because it would be more stable. Does that sound legitimate?

I've read reviews about Panasonic plasmas that they do not allow you to turn off the internal speakers just allow them to be turned down? Will this present an issue with turning the volume up and down via a sound bar?

I picked the JBL SB400 because of the 4 HDMI ports. Now it doesn't appear that I will even use those. Would the Kllipsch be a better choice now?



http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Cinema-Soundbar-Speaker-System/dp/B00AWTW480/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I6069UGQULW07


http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-HD-Theater-SB-Soundbar/dp/B0092QGSHM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=IZPU4S2UUGG71
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post #2 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 10:11 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nygiant75 View Post

So I am having a company come out and mount the plasma on a brick wall. Have to install a power source too, run wires behind wall etc. He stated that they would be using one 30-35 foot HDMI from the tv to a 3x1 switch over to where the bookshelf holds everything. Then use "jumper" HDMI cables 3-5 feet long from the switch to each component.

Anything I should be worried about? Are the HDMI sitches a good thing?

He also said that the ARC on most setups he has dealt with is a pain and only works some of the time. He suggested just using the digital optical on the tv to the sound bar I am buying because it would be more stable. Does that sound legitimate?

I've read reviews about Panasonic plasmas that they do not allow you to turn off the internal speakers just allow them to be turned down? Will this present an issue with turning the volume up and down via a sound bar?

I picked the JBL SB400 because of the 4 HDMI ports. Now it doesn't appear that I will even use those. Would the Kllipsch be a better choice now?



http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Cinema-Soundbar-Speaker-System/dp/B00AWTW480/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I6069UGQULW07


http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-HD-Theater-SB-Soundbar/dp/B0092QGSHM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=IZPU4S2UUGG71

It sounds like you already have some concerns about this company or you wouldn't be asking these questions.

The first item of concern is the HDMI cable. There are only two types of HDMI cables - standard speed and high speed. The high speed HDMI cable can carry any signal currently in the HDMI spec, easily including 1080p. The standard speed cables are only guaranteed to carry 1080i or 720p signals but usually can do more. For a passive High Speed HDMI cable, the maximum distance available is 25 feet. For an active high speed HDMI cable, the distance can be expanded beyond 50 feet. Since they specified 35 feet, that means the cable they are using (assuming it is a passive cable since they didn't say anything else) is a standard speed HDMI cable. So there may be situations where that cable cannot handle signal you are trying to send to the TV. It may also be the reason they have problems with ARC.

See Monoprice Redmere cables for an active High Speed HDMI cable that can handle 35 feet.

In-wall power should only be installed by someone certified in the installation, such as an electrician. The cable should be rated for in-wall and should look like typical house-wiring cable and should never be an extension cord. So that's one thing to check there.

If this is going into a brick wall that is part of a fireplace, be careful you don't mount the TV too high. I have seen many an installation where the TV is so high because of a fireplace that it becomes unwatchable from neck strain. A lot of money gets spent for something that isn't enjoyable because no one thought about being able to watch something that high. Usually the fire place (while it seems like a great idea) is a bad place to mount a TV.

Digital optical will provide a compressed multichannel audio signal or non-compressed two channel signal. This is acceptable for satellite/cable TV since that's all they send. Also ARC only allows a compressed signal anyway, so it really won't matter, particularly with a sound bar. The only possible concern is with audio sync with the video. You won't know until you try that out if the audio is in-sync using optical. It will also depend upon the source.

Finally, HDMI switches are fine. It is a digital signal. So it's the same 1s and 0s whether there is a switch or not. If those 1s and 0s don't get through you won't get a picture. Just make the switch can pass-through 3D, if you plan to use 3D movies.
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post #3 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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No, no concern about the company. The guy and his company are very ligit. I am asking because I have never had this work done before and have very limited knowledge of the do's and dont's. I will ask, but I'm sure this guy is using high speed cables. I told him I will be getting a blu ray player and stream movies from netflix and Directv on demand.

The electrical work is being performed by an electrican that he subs out. He specified that in our meeting. I mean, this guy has been inbusiness for a while and is listed on the BBB website with an A+ rating. Mounting above the fireplace is no concern to me because this is the ONLY place a tv will fit. I have posted a whole different thread on that when I first joined.

I was more so concerend about the switch, not using the ARC, and using optival rathther than HDMI for the sound. I guess since the sound bar is only 2.1 it wouldn't matter like you said. Do you know about sound bars? Which one looks better to you according to the specs of the ones I posted?
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post #4 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 11:07 AM
 
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I'll have to look at the soundbars when I get a chance. They'll both sound better than the TV but worse than a true home theater (receiver + speakers).

At 35 feet I doubt he is using High Speed HDMI cable, unless he is using a Redmere active cable. As I mentioned, the high speed passive HDMI cables max out at just barely over 25 feet.

Good to know he's legit but its still good to double-check, as you are doing.
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post #5 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 02:31 PM
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I think that you are pretty good to go with this setup overall. If the wiring run is 'difficult' - that is, if you are spending a lot on the labor associated with running the HDMI cable, then I would be darn sure to include 2 pieces of raw cat-6 cable along with the HDMI cable just in case the HDMI cable has an issue at some point. This gives you some level of future-proofing which you don't get by just running a HDMI cable along the path.

Nothing wrong with HDMI switchers for sure - this is very typical. It is like an A/V receiver without the rest of the bells and whistles.

Generally, for best audio, I would put an A/V receiver by your equipment and use a non-powered speaker bar connected to that A/V receiver. The A/V receiver would handle all the audio and video switching, maintain the best possible audio quality, often provide more power to the speaker bar, and switch the HDMI video for output to your television. Of course, this ends up costing a bit more typically.

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post #6 of 24 Old 07-22-2013, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I definitely appreciate that feedback and recommendation.

Do you have a link to what sound bar and receiver would be decent for me?
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post #7 of 24 Old 07-23-2013, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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How about this set up? I've been reading and have been told that VT60 digital optical output will not pass 5.1 it will downgrade it.

I was planning on using an HDMI switcher For all of the sources and then running the audio through the optical out from the TV into the sound bar. From what people told me on another forum is doing that is okay but I will lose quality in sound, it will be downgraded, it will not pass through as 5.1.

So someone recommended I get an HDMI switcher with optical out and run the optical cable from that switcher directly into the sound bar which will pass 5.1 rather than going through the TV and having it downgraded.

Here is the product;

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5557&seq=1&format=2


Here is the sound bar I am considering running it to;

http://amzn.com/B00AQY57AI
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post #8 of 24 Old 07-23-2013, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone?
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post #9 of 24 Old 07-23-2013, 08:31 PM
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I just always feel like I don't trust this type of setup. Not that it won't work, and certainly a HDMI switcher with digital audio output is a decent option - if/when it works, but it never seems like it is going to be as reliable as an A/V receiver with a decent speaker bar.

Polk has this: http://www.polkaudio.com/products/surroundbar400cht

That's their new unpowered speaker bar. Similar to what you have linked, but better speakers (I expect) and no amplification, so you would need an entry level A/V receiver with it.

Something like this...
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1613/DENON-AVR-1613-5.1ch-Networking-Receiver-w/AirPlay-3D-ready/1.html

It gives you room to grow, and should provide better power and a far more stable audio interface which can include high definition audio which digital optical simply can't support no matter what.

I'm not sure how much any of this matters with a surround bar type product which really isn't the same as surround sound, and due to driver size may be compromised at some level anyway.

I have yet to find the perfect, reasonably priced surround bar solution. I've gone via eBay several times and picked up their older SurroundBar 50 unit which sounds very good and is more robust than current units.

Another option might be to consider a surround bar which is HDMI native like this one from Sony...
http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&productId=8198552921666308122&langId=-1&k_id=59cb76b9-a10f-b849-8b84-000052a2ac2c&XID=O:HTCT550W:dg_gglpla&kpid=8198552921666308122&XID=O:htct550w:dg_gglsrch:pla&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNnT8uKXx7gCFZKk4AodIigAqg

It deals with HD audio on the bar, and all audio runs through the bar to your TV instead of dealing with an extremely imperfect TV trying to feed the bar. This basically is a simplified A/V receiver/speakers/TV setup which should work reasonably well and is a very good value.

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post #10 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

I just always feel like I don't trust this type of setup. Not that it won't work, and certainly a HDMI switcher with digital audio output is a decent option - if/when it works, but it never seems like it is going to be as reliable as an A/V receiver with a decent speaker bar.

Polk has this: http://www.polkaudio.com/products/surroundbar400cht

That's their new unpowered speaker bar. Similar to what you have linked, but better speakers (I expect) and no amplification, so you would need an entry level A/V receiver with it.

Something like this...
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1613/DENON-AVR-1613-5.1ch-Networking-Receiver-w/AirPlay-3D-ready/1.html

It gives you room to grow, and should provide better power and a far more stable audio interface which can include high definition audio which digital optical simply can't support no matter what.

I'm not sure how much any of this matters with a surround bar type product which really isn't the same as surround sound, and due to driver size may be compromised at some level anyway.

I have yet to find the perfect, reasonably priced surround bar solution. I've gone via eBay several times and picked up their older SurroundBar 50 unit which sounds very good and is more robust than current units.

Another option might be to consider a surround bar which is HDMI native like this one from Sony...
http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&productId=8198552921666308122&langId=-1&k_id=59cb76b9-a10f-b849-8b84-000052a2ac2c&XID=O:HTCT550W:dg_gglpla&kpid=8198552921666308122&XID=O:htct550w:dg_gglsrch:pla&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNnT8uKXx7gCFZKk4AodIigAqg

It deals with HD audio on the bar, and all audio runs through the bar to your TV instead of dealing with an extremely imperfect TV trying to feed the bar. This basically is a simplified A/V receiver/speakers/TV setup which should work reasonably well and is a very good value.

Really appreciate the help that you have provided. Just not sure what to do now.
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post #11 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 08:02 AM
 
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It all depends what you want to do with the room later. If you just want a place to watch TV and not worry about picture or sound too much, then a TV with a soundbar isn't bad.

On the other hand, if you really want 5.1-channel audio and are going to "fuss" over picture and audio detail, then you probably want to rethink.

It really is up to you and your budget.
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post #12 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

It all depends what you want to do with the room later. If you just want a place to watch TV and not worry about picture or sound too much, then a TV with a soundbar isn't bad.

On the other hand, if you really want 5.1-channel audio and are going to "fuss" over picture and audio detail, then you probably want to rethink.

It really is up to you and your budget.

Yeah I am not a HUGE a/v junkie. I just want somnething that will look great (why I got the Panasonic VT60) sound real good, maybe not great, but real good. I think that can be done with a high mid grade bar don't you?
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post #13 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 10:09 AM
 
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You're asking the wrong person. I do audio mixing in my "spare" time and I've refurbished/restored large speakers. So anything without a minimum of an 8" woofer is probably not going to pass my test (the old expression of "If it has no highs and has no lows, it must be B(l)ose" applies when listening to many small speakers).

However, I believe that you can get better than the common TV sound with a soundbar. And, if you don't have the room or the budget for an AVR and speakers, then a soundbar is a good alternative. Adding a subwoofer to a soundbar helps (although it can also make it sound boomy, if not properly integrated). Although I have to admit the "wireless subwoofer" always brings a smile to my face since the first thing you do with a wireless subwoofer is plug it into the wall. So much for wireless... The subwoofer makes the soundbar more of a satellite setup, which make some sense to me.

So, yes, as long as you understand the limitations of a soundbar, I'd consider that a good alternative.

I'll also point out the same thing I tell people about big speakers - I can't judge the sound quality for you. Part of the speaker quality is the perception of the owner as well as the room accoustics. So, it is important to hear the speaker and, in this age of Internet purchases, it's probably more important to make sure you can return it if it doesn't sound good where you'll have the speaker located.
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post #14 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

You're asking the wrong person. I do audio mixing in my "spare" time and I've refurbished/restored large speakers. So anything without a minimum of an 8" woofer is probably not going to pass my test (the old expression of "If it has no highs and has no lows, it must be B(l)ose" applies when listening to many small speakers).

However, I believe that you can get better than the common TV sound with a soundbar. And, if you don't have the room or the budget for an AVR and speakers, then a soundbar is a good alternative. Adding a subwoofer to a soundbar helps (although it can also make it sound boomy, if not properly integrated). Although I have to admit the "wireless subwoofer" always brings a smile to my face since the first thing you do with a wireless subwoofer is plug it into the wall. So much for wireless... The subwoofer makes the soundbar more of a satellite setup, which make some sense to me.

So, yes, as long as you understand the limitations of a soundbar, I'd consider that a good alternative.

I'll also point out the same thing I tell people about big speakers - I can't judge the sound quality for you. Part of the speaker quality is the perception of the owner as well as the room accoustics. So, it is important to hear the speaker and, in this age of Internet purchases, it's probably more important to make sure you can return it if it doesn't sound good where you'll have the speaker located.

Well again, thanks for the feedback. Guess I'll just put the names of the soundbars I'm considering in a hat and pull one out. Amazon has a great return policy so if I don't like it It will be returned hassle free.

The next thing I just can't decide on is to use a HDMI switch with optical out to the sound bar for sound. Or, just run the optical out from th tv to the sound bar. Seems the latter has some negative due to the tv downgrading the sound. Also seems the hdmi switch has issues too after reading many reviews. I had no idea how hard this would become.
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post #15 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 10:31 AM
 
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I may be able to help you with this one. You have three alternatives - 1) A soundbar that has sources connect over HDMI in and sends HDMI out to the TV, 2) A soundbar that hooks up to the TV as a ARC using an HDMI connection between the soundbar and the TV and 3) A soundbar that take S/PDIF digital audio input (whether optical or coax).

Making this a little easier is that choice 2 and 3 will provide the exact same sound quality. The ARC output, even though it is from HDMI, can only generate the same signals as the S/PDIF. So, it then becomes a question of ease of wiring and whether there will be any audio sync issues between 2 and 3.

Choice 1 provides a method of providing better sound quality. However (and this is important), satellite/cable transmissions are already limited to what choices 2 and 3 can use. So, the only time you may notice a difference is with a Blu-Ray (or DVD-Audio/SACD). Now having said that the audio-snob in me can't help myself (sorry) from pointing out that with a soundbar I'm not sure even if you had the cleanest possible Blu-Ray output that you'll notice a difference with a soundbar (particularly one without a subwoofer). However, if you want to preserve options for the future, such as an AVR with speakers, then choice 1 would make that easiest since that is the way to wire an AVR (source HDMI to AVR, AVR output HDMI to TV). Of course if your AVR wouldn't go near the TV, then even that doesn't hold weight since the AVR would have to be wired further away from the TV.

So, those are the choices. You can reduce the complications by choosing based on what you want the room to do (or plan to do in the future). Also, I'm reminded of what an old engineering professor used to say when we were confused, "draw pictures, draw pictures, draw pictures". Basically draw out the wiring on paper and see how the connections will be made.
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post #16 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

I may be able to help you with this one. You have three alternatives - 1) A soundbar that has HDMI in and out, 2) A soundbar that hooks up to the TV as a ARC and 3) A soundbar that take S/PDIF digital audio input (whether optical or coax).

Making this a little easier is that choice 2 and 3 will provide the exact same sound quality. The ARC output, even though it is from HDMI, can only generate the same signals as the S/PDIF. So, it then becomes a question of ease of wiring and whether there will be any audio sync issues between 2 and 3.

Choice 1 provides a method of providing better sound quality. However (and this is important), satellite/cable transmissions are already limited to what choices 2 and 3 can use. So, the only time you may notice a difference is with a Blu-Ray (or DVD-Audio/SACD). Now having said that the audio-snob in me can't help myself (sorry) from pointing out that with a soundbar I'm not sure even if you had the cleanest possible Blu-Ray output that you'll notice a difference with a soundbar (particularly one without a subwoofer). However, if you want to preserve options for the future, such as an AVR with speakers, then choice 1 would make that easiest since that is the way to wire an AVR (source HDMI to AVR, AVR output HDMI to TV). Of course if your AVR wouldn't go near the TV, then even that doesn't hold weight since the AVR would have to be wired further away from the TV.

So, those are the choices. You can reduce the complications by choosing based on what you want the room to do (or plan to do in the future). Also, I'm reminded of what an old engineering professor used to say when we were confused, "draw pictures, draw pictures, draw pictures". Basically draw out the wiring on paper and see how the connections will be made.

VERY helpful, I appreciate you taking time to help me and explain. I orginally had the JBL Cinema SB400 http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Cinema-Soundbar-Speaker-System/dp/B00AWTW480/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I6069UGQULW07 picked out due to the HDMI inputs and ARC to the tv. I told the installer this and he said he was not a fan of the ARC because it's fairly new technology and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. He wanted me to be happy and go with what he KNOWS works. Which is; an HDMI switch he has used many times for installs and is proven. All the sources into that switch and then one hdmi cable out to the tv. Then a digital optical out of the tv into the sound bar (JBL SB400) which in addition to hdmi, it also has an optical input. (pdf included at bottom of this post, look at page 2)

Personally, I would at least like him to try the ARC first and keep everything HDMI rather than run the sound out of the tv through optical into the sound bar. He did't seem too excited about that. I said run all the sources into the sound bar but he suggested the switch.

Since he said all that, that is why I said maybe I should go with the Polk 9000 IHT http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Surround-Bar-9000/dp/B00AQY57AI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I24D9ABZX0HZE4 because its just optical inputs and reproduces 5.1 rather than just 2.1 like the JBL. I thought that if he isn't going to use HDMI at all for the sound, than maybe I should not get the bar with HDMI inputs and that the polk might sound better anyways. See why I am so confused now?

JBL SB400.pdf 3520k .pdf file
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post #17 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 11:48 AM
 
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Looking at the JBL, that is setup for three HDMI inputs and then one HDMI output. The problem with that is that all of your sources have to be wired to the soundbar. That means four (three input and one output) HDMI cables. Would that work in your case? If so, I see nothing wrong with that.

If you are limited to the single HDMI cable going to the TV area, then you're kind-of stuck with option 2 or option 3. ARC has been around at least 3 years now and we don't get any complaints once it is setup right (the HDMI cable has to connect to the HDMI connections that say "ARC" on them - only one HDMI port on the TV is ARC-capable).

Again, assuming only one HDMI cable, you would run the switcher output to the TV input #2 (non-ARC) and then run the TV input #1 (likely, the ARC) from the TV to the soundbar. Since that is a short run, I'm not sure you really are buying anything over the S/PDIF version with that setup. It will really depend upon the capabilities of the soundbar.

Also keep in mind that an AVR would allow all of the cables to stay near the sources but then you get the added complexity of running speakers (and buying speakers).
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post #18 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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You just explained it exactly like I had planned setting it up. I think the installer shot away from that due to concealment issues that would be power cable from the TV and 3 HDMI cables From the speaker bar and one going back to the switcher all being concealed around a fireplace.

He was telling me he would go around the top edge of the fireplace near the crown molding with something called armor cable or armor conduit, not sure what he called it. It would only be about several inches because he said There are several pieces of wood just to the right of the brick and he wanted to go straight through the drywall. So he was going to extend out from the brick and wood framing to the drywall then go down behind the drywall come out right above the baseboards where the small bookshelf will be and come out with all the wires there.

I think he was trying to run as few cables as possible through that little stretch near the crown molding so it wouldn't be really visible. There was just no way to drill through the brick over to the drywall to the right of the fireplace so he was going to make a small extension right near the top of the ceiling and then go into the drywall up there. does that make sense?

I guess if we did use that JBL and have all of those HDMI cables going to it, that it might cause some concealment issues due to working around brick. maybe that's why he recommended the one HDMI and the one digital optical to have the cleanest install possible because of Concealment issues with the brick.
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post #19 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 01:16 PM
 
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Yes, that makes sense. So, that's really the first question that you should answer - should you try to send the 3 HDMI and power through there? If that answer is 'yes' then go the JBL route (choice 1).

If not, then you need to decide on choice 2 or 3 (or an AVR with speakers). I can't see any audible difference between choice 2 and choice 3 except for possibly lip sync (which you really won't know until you try it).
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post #20 of 24 Old 07-24-2013, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Well do you think there will be much of a difference if I just do it the way to the installer has recommended? Am I making this more difficult than it has to be over some miniscule differences?
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post #21 of 24 Old 07-25-2013, 08:43 AM
 
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Choice 2 and 3 will give identical results. Choice 1 would be different if you can have all of those HDMI cables running around the fireplace.
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post #22 of 24 Old 07-25-2013, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alk3997 View Post

Choice 2 and 3 will give identical results. Choice 1 would be different if you can have all of those HDMI cables running around the fireplace.

Well, I'm just not sure. Just frustrated but I appreciate the help. The JBL is one of the only ones with HDMI's but also has that optical in. The Polk only has optical. I guess I could have it set up as was recommended (the JBL with the optical out of the tv to the optical in on the jbl bar) and if I'm not happy, then have more hdmi's run and concealed and scrap the optical in. At least with the JBL there is an HDMI and an optical choice. Granted, I'd be spending more money for the installer to come back, but at least the option is there. What do you think of that?
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post #23 of 24 Old 07-25-2013, 01:39 PM
 
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Keeping your options open as long as possible is always good as long as you can afford it. As much as there should be a sonic improvement with the 3 HDMI setup, I'm not sure you'll be happy with the exposed wires and with a soundbar I'm not sure you're really going to notice that much of a difference. So, it sounds like a good plan.
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post #24 of 24 Old 07-26-2013, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Just an update.....here is what I am doing. Work slated for mid next week.




I am alomst certain that the Panasonics do not pass 5.1, most tv's don't. Someone sent me some info on some of the most recent panasonics and none of them passed 5.1, I doubt my VT60 will. You know I was going to get the JBL SB400 http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Cinema-Soundbar-Speaker-System/dp/B00AWTW480/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I6069UGQULW07

but at the last minute decided on this Polk Audio http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Surround-Bar-9000/dp/B00AQY57AI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EJYDESP9YZRY&coliid=I24D9ABZX0HZE4

I did that becasue I want to get the absolute most out of the sound without getting a receiver and 5 different speakers with wires. The polk description actually says this; Dolby Digital & DTS Decoding
Both optical inputs can decode and reproduce Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 program material. Many bars can decode 5.1 but can only reproduce it as 2-channel stereo. The SurroundBar 9000 IHT plays back all discrete channels as intended for optimal surround performance and fidelity.


Maybe the extra money will be worth it maybe not. Guess I can always return it and get the JBL.

So basically here is what I have decided............

Have the Directv, Apple TV, and a Blu Ray player (not purchased yet) on shelves next to the fireplace. Have the 60" VT60 Panasonic TV mounted above the mantle (only place in room where tv will fit), have the sound bar on the mantle, have the subwoofer on other side of fireplace. Run all of the sources into the HDMI swicth and than run one HDMI cable out of the switch into the tv.

Use the optical out on the bck of the HDMI switch and run the toslink cable to the optical in on the back of the soundbar. All cables including the power will be concealed by the installer. All sources and tv will be plugged into a surge protector and eventually a UPS.

How does that sound?
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