Monoprice has just posted their 4x1 1.3b HDMI switch - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 202 Old 12-30-2008, 07:52 AM
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I just got this switch to go to my new Epson 6500ub projector and am having problems with my PS3. Here is what i am seeing:
When i turn everything on and am in the menus on the PS3 everything is fine. I start watching a bluray movie and everything is fine. When i exit back out to the PS3 menu it starts dropping signal (the screen will flash on and off as if it is losing data.) I do not have this issue if i bypass the HDMI switch. If i restart everything i starts normally again but will go through the same process. I am not seeing any of this with the signal going through my Denon AVR-3806 to the switch... just the PS3.

Any thoughts?
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post #182 of 202 Old 01-02-2009, 10:49 AM
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Availability of the Monoprice Product ID: 4088 4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0) has been postponed for a couple weeks to 01/15/09. Is there another place online or a store in NYC where I can get a hold on one of these before the 15th?

Thanks
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post #183 of 202 Old 01-03-2009, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nysoundman View Post

I just got this switch to go to my new Epson 6500ub projector and am having problems with my PS3. Here is what i am seeing:
When i turn everything on and am in the menus on the PS3 everything is fine. I start watching a bluray movie and everything is fine. When i exit back out to the PS3 menu it starts dropping signal (the screen will flash on and off as if it is losing data.) I do not have this issue if i bypass the HDMI switch. If i restart everything i starts normally again but will go through the same process. I am not seeing any of this with the signal going through my Denon AVR-3806 to the switch... just the PS3.

Any thoughts?

Exact same issue with me.....6500UB with PS3 - connected 'straight in', it works fine. But through the monoprice switch, the signal drops every few seconds. Sometimes it stabilizes, but after playing a game and going back to the menu, it starts to jump (or vice versa - its just unstable overall)..

Another wierd thing..I've been using this switch for a few months with my epson cinema 400 (720p), and it worked perfectly. I was switching PS3, Dish Network(vip211), and xbox 360. No problems.

I put the 6500ub into the mix, and the xbox seemed to be OK, but I could only pass 720p successfully. Being that this is an "easier" signal, I guess that's why it worked. BUT, now that I have a 1080p projector, I thought to myself I'll just output the Dish Network box at 1080i. It locks pretty solid with it, but sometimes it starts jumping like the ps3 did.

I can sling the PS3 around all day at 1080p connected directly to the projector, but I'm confused why the projector is having trouble with a 'mere' 1080i signal (from the sat. box) through the switcher.

I guess I need to buy/wait for monprice to make a more solid switcher?
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post #184 of 202 Old 01-18-2009, 10:07 AM
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I got mine on friday, works fine switching between my D* and my roku (4' monoprice cables) to my pany plasma (50' run in wall with monoprice cable).
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post #185 of 202 Old 01-18-2009, 10:10 AM
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The Harmony remote codes should be in under the Monoprice name. For those having issues with the Epson 6500, it might be Epsons's problem. Others have reported HDMI handshake issues with this projector even without the switch.
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post #186 of 202 Old 01-18-2009, 10:48 AM
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oh, and for those who were asking about switching times, mine is definitely not instant, but I probably have a longer run than most. I have a 6' run from my switcher to a 50' run to my TV.

I'd say it takes about 2 seconds for the TV to handshake and recognize the D* HD DVR, and about 3 seconds to get video on the roku box. When it switches to the roku box, I then get blue screen for another 2 seconds before it goes black for 2 seconds, and then I get the video.

Any suggestions on the blue screen or way to speed things up?
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post #187 of 202 Old 01-21-2009, 07:29 AM
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I am running a media streaming device PCH A100 to a JVC Rs2 projector and having problems through this monoprice switch. Works fine when directly connected via 30' hdmi cable, but if I attached the 30' cable to the 4x1 switch and a 3' cable to the streamer, I get line flicker randomly and total picture drop out eventually. This seems to be the case at 23.9 24, 25 59.9, 60 hz refresh rates, so it must be something to do with the 4x1.

That's not a bug, it's a feature!
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post #188 of 202 Old 01-21-2009, 08:05 AM
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post #189 of 202 Old 01-22-2009, 06:02 AM
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This is actually a 25' not 30' monoprice 24awg gold plated flat cable

That's not a bug, it's a feature!
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post #190 of 202 Old 02-17-2009, 05:02 PM
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Hrm

I've been using this switch for a while with my XA2 but today I have constand handshake issues.

Same cables, no change.
I tried powering things on in different orders... no dice.

Straight cable works, and I know it's a handshake issue because if I push "off" on the XA2 I get a second of video before it shuts down, and I also get the XA2's setup menu....

I tried a shorter cable, but I don't know how much shorter I can get...

XA2 <--3ft--> switch <-- 10ft --> TV

I'd need to re-arrange things quite a bit

Any tips? Thanks guys.
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post #191 of 202 Old 03-21-2009, 06:03 PM
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Are any/or all of you using the recommended Category 2 HDMI cables with this switch....

Is there any corelation to those using/not using Category 2's and the problems being reported?

EAP-2
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post #192 of 202 Old 03-25-2009, 09:30 AM
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I've got a 4x1 HDMI switch (item 4066) that is giving me problems. It will intermittantly lose all connections (all the lights on the front go red). If I move it slightly, it will temporarily fix the problem.

I started the RMA process a little over a week ago. The asked me to send the switch back and they would send me a new one. This means that I can't use all my components for a few weeks while the old switch goes back and the new switch is sent (I'm in Canada, so it'll take a while). It is not easy to crawl behind my rack to swap cables, so this is not an option.

After a few days of back and forth, they said they'd send me a new one, and put a hold on my credit card, and remove it once I sent my old one. They direct me to the site to change my RMA to reflect this, and it now says I don't need to send mine in. I e-mail again, telling them it says this, and they say ok, unfortunately we don't have the 4066. I ask if they can send an alternate and I will pay the difference in price. Nope, can't change the item. If they can't change the item, I don't know what they would have sent me had I sent my 4066 in as they originally requested!!

So now they've said to send in my old one, they will credit my account (even though I'm beyond the store credit time frame). In the meantime, I'm to order a different one.

From the sounds of that, I'll order a new one, pay for it, send my old one and then have store credit that I will never use. I don't know if I'll bother responding, as I'm getting sick of dealing with them.

Anyone have a similar problem and solve it without an excessive number of e-mails back and forth?

Thanks,
Tyler
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post #193 of 202 Old 03-30-2009, 02:06 PM
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I believe this is the switch I have. I got it about a year ago. I recently upgraded to a Epson 1080 from a Epson 720. The switch passes 720p without a problem. Now that I have a 1080p projector I am having a problem sending 1080p/60. 1080p/24 is fine but sending 1080p/60 causes sparkles. If I connect the projector directly to the player it works perfectly. The problem is definately the swtich. According to the specs the switch is not capable of passing 1080p/60 since it is only rated for 6.75 gbps. I believe 1080p/60 requires 10.2 gbps.

What switch is capable of passing 1080p/60 without sparkles? I am thinking about getting the Oppo. I have been waiting for Emotiva to release the UMC-1 but who knows when they will actually release it.
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post #194 of 202 Old 12-15-2009, 09:05 PM
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Well mine just arrived and I hooked everything up...I have no problems with my 58" Panny Plasma and my Denon HT receiver, but my LG Blu Ray DVD is not getting a good picture at all. On the Home screen the picture looks ok there is a little white dancing pixels on the border, and then it starts to get greenish and jumpy. I tried every possible connection and for some reason the BR DVD is not working through this switch. I hooked it up directly to my TV and it works great so it has to be the switch.

I started the RMA and I am "hoping" it is just this particular unit... I wouldn't have even needed this if I didn't SOMEHOW screw up my 2nd HDMI cable when installing the new tv...I had 2 running in my wall and I think I bent the one while hooking up my new tv...grrr

This thread has been great, at least I tried all possible troubleshoots thanks to you all.
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post #195 of 202 Old 02-07-2010, 12:11 PM
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Has anybody found the remote codes for the monoprice switches. I have Universal 900 and an 880. I've had NO LUCK (perhaps no skill ) trying to use the "Learn" function to switch the inputs/outputs.

WAF goes to zero if I can't control this switch with the remotes.
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post #196 of 202 Old 02-07-2010, 11:02 PM
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Well the Logitech remotes have the code in their data base online that they load into your remote so if worse comes to worse maybe you could try one of the cheaper versions of one and that will work if the 880 your talking about isn't a Logitech like mine is.
My 880 runs the switch just fine, and it is used in several of my activities I have programed in.
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post #197 of 202 Old 09-07-2010, 06:31 PM
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I purchased the monoprice hdx-401e today and set it up (using HDMI Cable v1.3 Male to Male Digital A/V Cable, 30 AWG Cable, Gold Plated Connectors) and I am not getting a signal (it will occassionally flicker static but mostly stays black) are these not the correct HDMI cables or is something else wrong
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post #198 of 202 Old 09-07-2010, 06:41 PM
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Some devices just wont handshake properly through the switch, or through the switch with certain cables. I have run into it myself when I added 1 extra device and I got a black screen. Later I tried it with a different cable and it worked fine, then I took the same cable with another device and for whatever reason it worked fine with that previously non working cable and the new device.
You also might want to try it directly into the TV if you have access easily to the inputs or a extra one.
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post #199 of 202 Old 09-07-2010, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

Some devices just wont handshake properly through the switch, or through the switch with certain cables. I have run into it myself when I added 1 extra device and I got a black screen. Later I tried it with a different cable and it worked fine, then I took the same cable with another device and for whatever reason it worked fine with that previously non working cable and the new device.
You also might want to try it directly into the TV if you have access easily to the inputs or a extra one.

I have 4 devices and 3 HDMI inputs (and would rather not run components for one of them) so that's why I bought it. So the HDMI cables I listed should be fine to run this then right?

The devices are: DVR, Mac Mini, PS3, Blu Ray Player
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post #200 of 202 Old 09-07-2010, 07:08 PM
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Yes, they should be but sometimes either the device, or the cable, or even the switch just wont play nice so if your having problems try a different cable, try it directly into the input to eliminate the switch, things like that.
My TV has 2 and that was great for a 2005 built set so I needed the switch after I started getting newer gear that had only HDMI or component outs, which it also only has 2 of.
I didn't want to have to run even more cable around either so most of my stuff is using HDMI and digital outputs for sound to the receiver that doesn't have HDMI either.
The TV supports sound over HDMI and so does all the gear so at least that eliminates one extra mess of cables and maybe splitters to make everything work.
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post #201 of 202 Old 09-08-2010, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartman View Post

Yes, they should be but sometimes either the device, or the cable, or even the switch just wont play nice so if your having problems try a different cable, try it directly into the input to eliminate the switch, things like that.
My TV has 2 and that was great for a 2005 built set so I needed the switch after I started getting newer gear that had only HDMI or component outs, which it also only has 2 of.
I didn't want to have to run even more cable around either so most of my stuff is using HDMI and digital outputs for sound to the receiver that doesn't have HDMI either.
The TV supports sound over HDMI and so does all the gear so at least that eliminates one extra mess of cables and maybe splitters to make everything work.

What do you mean directly into the input? You mean the input on my television? All of these devices and cables have worked fine before I got the switch. I got the switch merely to make it so i didn't have to get out of the couch to unplug an hdmi and put a different one in when I wanted to load up the mac mini or ps3, etc.
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post #202 of 202 Old 09-08-2010, 05:36 PM
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Yep, directly into the HDMI input of the TV or whatever it is, if they worked OK before and the only new thing is the switch them it's your problem as something about it doesn't like the combo your using. Some folks do have issues with it, I've always manged to get it to work fine with my stuff, but I have quite a few extra HDMI cables I can try if I find one it doesn't like.
I'd try a different cable somehow even if you have to barrow one and see if that makes it happy. There are a lot of dumb things that can make something not work.
They will give you a RMA or whatever if it's still under warranty if it just wont work with what you have and you don't want to waste time trying all possibilities to make it work.
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