BD-UP5000 Universal Player Samsung [OFFICIAL OWNERS THREAD] & FAQ - Page 187 - AVS Forum
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post #5581 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dougotte View Post

I can't think of any other reasons to hold on to the 5k. If I had the choice (I'm way past the return date), I'd probably go with the LG at this point. You have the choice between a machine that now does what it should vs. a machine the "might" have the functionality "in May."

Well technically, since LG pulled the holy grail of firmware upgrades, neither machine has all of it's bells and whistles yet Granted, we know with 100% assurance that the LG update is coming (since it already did once before), but I think it's highly unlikely Samsung won't deliver the goods as well. They've promised as much, surely Broadcom is doing most of the heavy lifting from a programing standpoint, and the LG proves it can be done.

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post #5582 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 08:11 AM
 
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I like your attitude, Span.
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post #5583 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

I like your attitude, Span.

It'll change drastically if June 1st rolls around and I still don't have 5.1 TrueHD decoding

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post #5584 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:30 AM
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Just thought y'all might want to know that the LG firmware update which was pulled IS available at another download site (www.megaupload.com). It's dated 14 Mar 2008 and does appear to address all the issues that had been problematic with the BH200. (Some menu selections changed and/or added.)

The Qdeo processor does a pretty good job of upscaling SD DVD's, particularly a Superbit version of "FIFTH ELEMENT". I haven't seen the 5000 in action, so I'm not qualified to judge. I, too, had been awaiting the Samsung firmware update but opted to grab the LG once the firmware was made available. Very easy install via a USB thumb drive (connector on the front of the player). Took about 4-5 minutes and you could follow along on the widescreen.

The audio is still somewhat of an issue for me, as my a/v receiver is not capable of decoding the higher resolution codecs (STR-DA777ES). Also no HDMI upscaling via the receiver. The KDF-60XS955 display is only 1080i, so I'm not able to take full advantage of the 1080p/24fps resolution the 14 Mar 2008 firmware provides. I run the HDMI directly from the BH200 -> KDF-60XS955 and the audio via the Toslink to the receiver. I am mostly pleased so far.

I can get the 5000 for a pretty good price and shall probably do so, once the firmware update has been released. I, too, thought the Reon processor would be a better solution for the hundreds of SD DVD's I own, but every SD DVD I've watch so far has looked measurably improved via the BH200.

Thanks very much for all the insights.
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post #5585 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Crocodile View Post

The audio is still somewhat of an issue for me, as my a/v receiver is not capable of decoding the higher resolution codecs (STR-DA777ES). Also no HDMI upscaling via the receiver. The KDF-60XS955 display is only 1080i, so I'm not able to take full advantage of the 1080p/24fps resolution the 14 Mar 2008 firmware provides. I run the HDMI directly from the BH200 -> KDF-60XS955 and the audio via the Toslink to the receiver. I am mostly pleased so far.

That reminds me one more thing I liked Sammy 5000: 7.1 analog out. I can use this player with my non-HDMI receiver using analog input. That is if and when Samsung fixed all the advanced audio decoding.
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post #5586 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ckelly33 View Post

Waiting is starting to suck. I have no idea why I continue to wait on Samsung's update and check this site everyday as my return window closes (Friday). The BH-200 does everything that I HOPE the Sammy will do in the future...but it is doing it now! I used to thing I was holding out due to the Reon but the processor in the BH-200 is getting pretty good reviews. Any other reason's not to ditch the Sammy and go LG?

Aside from Samsung's Reon, there's the non-standard gamma curve of the LG. This would be especially problematic running through an HDMI receiver, since all your video sources will be coming through the same port; you'll want to keep multiple calibration configurations for that HDMI port depending on the source.

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post #5587 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:49 AM
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From what I read, the latest (now pulled) LG firmware also fixed this gamma curve issue.
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post #5588 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

From what I read, the latest (now pulled) LG firmware also fixed this gamma curve issue.

Ah, good stuff! The BH200 does sound pretty awesome with its new firmware. Hopefully Samsung is getting there soon.

But why did LG pull the update? Did it break anything? (Maybe this is the wrong thread, but it does relate to our firmware too... could explain why Samsung isn't ready.)

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post #5589 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Raptor007 View Post

Ah, good stuff! The BH200 does sound pretty awesome with its new firmware. Hopefully Samsung is getting there soon.

But why did LG pull the update? Did it break anything? (Maybe this is the wrong thread, but it does relate to our firmware too... could explain why Samsung isn't ready.)

I've peeked over there a couple of times (as I'm sure alot of us have) and I haven't found anything negative yet. Even the "Discs the BH200" thread seems pretty happy.
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post #5590 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

At 23 feet, the quality of the cable plays really important role. Your problem is typical of cable not up to task. At this length, you are looking at $$$ for quality cables that work. You may want to look at some other non-conventional cables like fiber optical or CAT6 ethernet cables with adapters.

I am using 49ft Silver Serpent Reference 1080p HDMI certified 1.3 direct from the 5K to my projector with no issue using 1080p/24 BR/HDDVD and 1080p-60 DVD.

http://www.bettercables.com
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post #5591 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dougotte View Post

Thanks for clarifying, and I think you're on to something. Lalittle seems to have a lot of dropouts, and I believe he uses HDMI, but I don't feel like searching for his posts at the moment.

I've thought about switching to analogs to check it out, but my AVR only has 1 set of analog inputs. Those are currently being used by my Oppo for SACD. When I get around to upgrading to a newer AVR, I'll be able to use HDMI for the Oppo, and I can test the 5k w/ analogs.

Doug

Sorry to reply so late to this message. I have been away from this thread for a few days. I use the HDMI output and I have never heard an audio dropout on any DVD, HD, or BD. And I have excellent hearing. I am a recovered audiophile (having kids eliminated any possibility of buying and maintaining the necessary high end equipment).

I wish somebody could figure out why the 5000 audio performance is so variable from unit to unit. But I am positive the problem is not HDMI vs analog.
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post #5592 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by denisincalif View Post

Sorry to reply so late to this message. I have been away from this thread for a few days. I use the HDMI output and I have never heard an audio dropout on any DVD, HD, or BD. And I have excellent hearing. I am a recovered audiophile (having kids eliminated any possibility of buying and maintaining the necessary high end equipment).

I wish somebody could figure out why the 5000 audio performance is so variable from unit to unit. But I am positive the problem is not HDMI vs analog.

Obviously, it would seem with this issue that everyones experiences are slightly different. I am a December 07 Build Owner with the most recent firmware as they have been made available. I had the 5k initially hooked up via analogues to a Denon AVR-2807. When using this setup, I noticed a few different audio issues, #1 being a very very annoying "over-modulated crackle" when listening to almost all DVDs. Had the speaker setting on small (i have paradigm SA-25s and a Sunfire Sub-woofer). After reading a few different posts, and some private messages (thanks kwindrem) I switched the hookup to HDMI with a PCM audio out setting. This has successfully cleared up all of the problems I was having, (drop outs and over-modulation being the top two) The reality is, the best bet for every owner out there is to experiment with your setting and hookups to find what works best for your player. Since build quality and firmware updates seem to constantly be variables with these players, communication amongst the members here is key, I want to say thanks to those that helped me and offer any support I can to others that need it.
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post #5593 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tarch5280 View Post

Since build quality and firmware updates seem to constantly be variables with these players, communication amongst the members here is key.

+1

Rick
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post #5594 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

Looks like BD-UP5000 has been out of stock from Amazon.com since this weekend. So much for "price matching".

Except for one or two vendors still list similar price on Amazon, most are either out of stock or much higher price (> $600).

Don't give up checking the Amazon website. I got $121 refund on my player (purchased 2/28) this afternoon. Amazon showed it as in stock and shipping from Amazon (yesterday it said shipping from Vanns).
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post #5595 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 07:27 PM
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Have enjoyed this thread for weeks since I bought the unit and found it very informative. I have stumbled on something which I feel might be of interest to all owners and this concerns the HDMI setting for either TV or Monitor. For no reason at all I decided to try the Monitor setting; this even in the face of the manual's info that it would be unavailable if there were no Monitor! We own an Oct. 2003 Sony rear projection 57"; of course with DVI input which requires an HDMI adapter on the end of our Cardas video cable. For whatever reason, upon switching from TV to Monitor we immediately noticed a substantially better picture....better contrast, sharper image, better perspective, quieter background, more intense colour. Why this should be so I have no idea but I urge fellow members to give it a shot and report findings. I am wondering at this point if the switch in the program could have possibly been reversed and the TV setting should actually be Monitor????? Weird stuff. Bought the unit for $825.00 in Toronto in mid-Jan (this unit was shipped in December). It has been given updates 1.1 and 1.2 (by disc....and from what I read I would recommend everyone update by disc and forget the net. I have had zero problems). I consider it a fair price for the unit and can say that anyone who can buy one for $499.00 has a true bargain. The picture on this unit is a thing of beauty and the Reon upconversion makes it a must in my book. As to the sound, being a tubeaholic for over 55 years, the virtues of the transistor escape me (musically). I use the Bitstream reencode setting and the Sony provides not unpleasant Trusound Surround. From the Sony I feed an all tube linestage and two filamentary triode all tube monoblocks with 6B4 outputs...all equipment by Flemming Audio. What I hear I like...no surround of course but good sound nonetheless. Computer hookup? No idea. They live in separate rooms and one third of our living room is taken up with video and sound equipment now (as is the entire downstairs room with high-end audio equipment, again all tube). Anyway, nice to be aboard and let's hear if anyone else sees the difference that I did in switching the set-up.
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post #5596 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by oldvideophile View Post

Have enjoyed this thread for weeks since I bought the unit and found it very informative. I have stumbled on something which I feel might be of interest to all owners and this concerns the HDMI setting for either TV or Monitor. For no reason at all I decided to try the Monitor setting; this even in the face of the manual's info that it would be unavailable if there were no Monitor! We own an Oct. 2003 Sony rear projection 57"; of course with DVI input which requires an HDMI adapter on the end of our Cardas video cable. For whatever reason, upon switching from TV to Monitor we immediately noticed a substantially better picture....better contrast, sharper image, better perspective, quieter background, more intense colour. Why this should be so I have no idea but I urge fellow members to give it a shot and report findings. I am wondering at this point if the switch in the program could have possibly been reversed and the TV setting should actually be Monitor????? Weird stuff. Bought the unit for $825.00 in Toronto in mid-Jan (this unit was shipped in December). It has been given updates 1.1 and 1.2 (by disc....and from what I read I would recommend everyone update by disc and forget the net. I have had zero problems). I consider it a fair price for the unit and can say that anyone who can buy one for $499.00 has a true bargain. The picture on this unit is a thing of beauty and the Reon upconversion makes it a must in my book. As to the sound, being a tubeaholic for over 55 years, the virtues of the transistor escape me (musically). I use the Bitstream reencode setting and the Sony provides not unpleasant Trusound Surround. From the Sony I feed an all tube linestage and two filamentary triode all tube monoblocks with 6B4 outputs...all equipment by Flemming Audio. What I hear I like...no surround of course but good sound nonetheless. Computer hookup? No idea. They live in separate rooms and one third of our living room is taken up with video and sound equipment now (as is the entire downstairs room with high-end audio equipment, again all tube). Anyway, nice to be aboard and let's hear if anyone else sees the difference that I did in switching the set-up.

Here is a link to an explanation by Larry.:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4987
Quote:


There actually were some responses to this buried in there somewhere. The problem is that this subject gets really complex rather quickly. The bottom line is that TV monitors (what the 5000 calls "TV") and computer monitors (what the 5000 calls "Monitor") are designed around a different idea of what "black" and "white" levels are. On a TV, black is not "0%" and white is not "100%" of the available color space/range. Using the 24bit color scale, TVs define the black to white scale as 16 to 235 instead of the full 0 to 255 (which is what computer monitors use.) When the source and the display are not set to the same scale, the image is not displayed correctly.

For example, if you set the 5000 to "Monitor" (i.e. a "computer" monitor) it expands the color space of the image to use the full 0 to 255 scale for full black to full white. "0" represents full black, which in turn means that "16" on this scale should be a very dark gray, but NOT full black. Now imagine a totally black square in the image next to a very dark gray square. The "black" square is being displayed with a level of 0, while the "dark gray" square is being displayed with a level of 16.

Now, let's say this is connected to a properly calibrated TV, which is designed to display "16" as black. The resulting image on this TV will look much too dark since IT thinks that 16 should be displayed as full black rather than the "very dark gray" that the 5000 thinks it should be. In other words, the 5000 and the TV are "disagreeing" about what should be "black." On the TV, EVERYTHING from 16 down to 0 is displayed as "black" since this is the way TVs are calibrated. This means that if we look at our black and dark gray squares, BOTH of them will appear as "black" on the TV, which is of course not correct. You're clipping or "crushing" the blacks, which means you're losing detail in dark areas of the image.

Note that most sets these days can reproduce "blacker than black" signals, i.e. you can still see differences in tone below 16. This capability, however, is there for calibration and "headroom" purposes, and is the subject of another discussion. The point is that when the 5000 is set to "Monitor," the actual level that the TV considers "black" is different from the level that the 5000 considers "black."

Now, lets say you switch the 5000 to "TV" while it's connected to the same TV. The "TV" setting makes the 5000 display the the same image using only the 16 to 235 part of the 0-255 scale. This means that the "totally black square" that we mentioned above is now being created by the 5000 with a value of 16 instead of 0, while the dark gray square next to it is being represented with a value around 32. Since both the 5000 and the TV "agree" on what level black is, the image is now correct. The black square is being displayed at the proper black level that the TV is calibrated to (16), and the dark gray square is being displayed as 32, which both the 5000 and the TV agree is "dark gray."

The same situation applies at the white end of the scale, although it is far less noticeable in normal program material.

Note that the reasons that the standards work the way they do goes back to the way the systems evolved over time, which once again is the subject of another discussion.

Hopefully this will help clarify things a bit for anybody who was interested enough to actually read all this, which is hopefully more than zero people.

Larry

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post #5597 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

At 23 feet, the quality of the cable plays really important role. Your problem is typical of cable not up to task. At this length, you are looking at $$$ for quality cables that work. You may want to look at some other non-conventional cables like fiber optical or CAT6 ethernet cables with adapters.

Foxbat - you may be correct, but I bought a 50 foot 24 AWG cable from monoprice & have had absolutely no problems with it. I spent about $60 incl shipping.
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post #5598 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 09:13 PM
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Hey,

I've had my unit for four months now and come across one new unplayable title a month (most recenlty, No Country for Old Men).

I've read through pages and pages trying, and failing, to find a concise answer as to weather any of the firmware upgrades have eliminated (or even improved) this situation.

Can anyone proved me with a quick short summarized answer to whether the probelm has been eliminated by Samsung?

Thanks for any help!
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post #5599 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Here is a link to an explanation by Larry.:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4987

Thanks Ph8te -- you saved me from having to search for that post.

oldvideophile,

The bottom line here is that when you switch the 5000 to "monitor" and display the image on a "TV" (i.e. NOT a computer monitor), you are creating a mismatch in the way the 5000 and the TV are designed to display the full contrast scale, and you are therefore not displaying the image properly. You're seeing more contrast (you aren't actually seeing any more "sharpness" -- this is an illusion caused by the extra contrast), and it's totally understandable for you to have the reaction you did, but the reason it looks better is most likely because the TV is not calibrated properly.

When you set the 5000 to "Monitor" and send the signal to a "TV," the levels are incorrectly "expanded" so that the blacks are darker and the whites are brighter than the TV "expects" them to be. In this situation, if your TV is properly calibrated, you'll be crushing the blacks and whites and losing detail at the ends of the contrast range.

Rather than using the "Monitor" setting to give you a better looking image, the correct way to proceed is to adjust the TV's settings so that the "TV" setting is correctly displaying the image. In other words, set the 5000 to "TV" and calibrate the TV so that the black and white levels are correct. Once you do this, you should find that switching the 5000 to "Monitor" results in the dark areas of the image going too black too early, and that the details in dark areas are being lost. It may look "pleasing" on certain images, but it's technically "wrong" since "dark grays" will now be reproduced as "black." The image may "pop" more, but it will not look the way it's "supposed" to. Remember that more saturation or higher contrast might make certain images more dramatic, but this is not necessarily what the filmmakers intended the image to look like.

On a side note, the reason that you are able to select "Monitor" in your setup is because the TV has a DVI rather than an HDMI connection. When you use an adapter in a situation like this, the 5000 is not aware of what it's plugged into (as it is with an HDMI device), and it therefore does not "know" to make the setting unavailable.

Larry
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post #5600 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lalittle View Post


Rather than using the "Monitor" setting to give you a better looking image, the correct way to proceed is to adjust the TV's settings so that the "TV" setting is correctly displaying the image.

What if your TV is actually a monitor (Pioneer considers the PRO-FHD1 1080p plasma to be a monitor - since it has no tuner).
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post #5601 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashop View Post

Hey,

I've had my unit for four months now and come across one new unplayable title a month (most recenlty, No Country for Old Men).

I've read through pages and pages trying, and failing, to find a concise answer as to weather any of the firmware upgrades have eliminated (or even improved) this situation.

Can anyone proved me with a quick short summarized answer to whether the probelm has been eliminated by Samsung?

Thanks for any help!

Once updated to 1.2, those with an issue with this disc had the problem go away.
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post #5602 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ckelly33 View Post

What if your TV is actually a monitor (Pioneer considers the PRO-FHD1 1080p plasma to be a monitor - since it has no tuner).

The question comes down to what color space the display is designed to operate in -- more specifically, what it considers "pure black" and "pure white." Some manufacturers call a display a "monitor" if it doesn't have a tuner, but this has nothing to do with what we're talking about here. This obviously leads to a lot of confusion since different terminologies are used by different manufacturers, and since the term "monitor" can mean different things in different situations.

In GENERAL, if the display is designed primarily for "television" signals (i.e. film or video), it's a "TV" according to the 5000. If, on the other hand, it's designed primarily as a "computer" monitor, the 5000 would consider it a "monitor." Note that some displays offer a setting that defines this, which of course means that you'll have to set BOTH the display AND the 5000 correctly.

Since the PRO-FHD1 is designed as a "Home Entertainment" monitor, I would "think" that the correct setting for the 5000 would be "TV." That said, I have no specific experience with that model. I would suggest setting the 5000 to "TV" and calibrating the PRO-FHD1 using some form of calibration disc. If the Brightness and Contrast settings do not have to be moved too far off of their "center" positions in order to produce the correct levels, this is most likely the correct setting.

Larry
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post #5603 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 11:53 PM
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I used to have a unit manufactured in October 2007 with which I had many problems (sound, HDMI, couldn't play Fox titles even after update to 1.2). I was able to get a newer version (built in December 2007) from my retailer and the new unit is just totally different. After update to 1.2 this new unit works so much better than the old one, you would think it is a different model altogether. I am now waiting for the 'May' sound upgrade with better confidence. Interesting enough, when I asked for a swap I was first offered another 'old' unit, so beware there are still early units in warehouses. It looks to me, at least based on my experience, that units manufactured in December 2007 or later seems to work better than older units. Obviously a factory return on the old unit may achieve the same result (assuming Samsung does some hardware update). I just didn't want to wait.
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post #5604 of 13681 Old 03-25-2008, 11:58 PM
 
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November units are built pretty well also from what I've seen.
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post #5605 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

At 23 feet, the quality of the cable plays really important role. Your problem is typical of cable not up to task. At this length, you are looking at $$$ for quality cables that work. You may want to look at some other non-conventional cables like fiber optical or CAT6 ethernet cables with adapters.

I doubt you'd find alternative interconnects for less than a good quality cable. I'm using a 40' Series-2 from Bluejeans Cable without problems at 1080p60. BJC has a step up to that: the Series 1 ($75 for 25') which you might want to consider for deep color support someday since the data rate is higher.

As others have mentioned, Monoprice is also a source for good quality cables at a reasonable price.

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post #5606 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TDF1055 View Post

I am using 49ft Silver Serpent Reference 1080p HDMI certified 1.3 direct from the 5K to my projector with no issue using 1080p/24.

http://www.bettercables.com

Bettercables are much, much more expensive than Bluejeans Cables or Monoprice.

Also, 1080p24 uses 20% LESS bandwidth than 1080i. 1080p60 uses double what's needed for 1080i so is the worst case scenario. Deep color requires additional bandwidth (up to double) but I don't think any devices are taking advantage of it yet.

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post #5607 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kwindrem View Post

Bettercables are much, much more expensive than Bluejeans Cables or Monoprice.

Also, 1080p24 uses 20% LESS bandwidth than 1080i. 1080p60 uses double what's needed for 1080i so is the worst case scenario. Deep color requires additional bandwidth (up to double) but I don't think any devices are taking advantage of it yet.

You are right they are more expensive. But it beat the overpriced Monster cable as well as some others.

I use 1080p/60 when viewing regular DVDs with no issues as well. Which the 5K does a great job of upconverting.

brief Bettercalbes 49.2 ft (15 meter) HDMI specs:
* Supports 8-channel digital audio on same cable. Also supports 6-channel, 96kHz audio.
* Supports lossless compressed digital audio formats Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio.
* Support for "Deep Color" 48-bit, 36-bit, and 30-bit.
* Supports new xvYCC color space (1.8 times as many colors as existing HDTV signals).
* Full support for high-resolution PC video formats-including 2560 X 1400.
* Silver-coated conductors.
* Triple-shielded - maximum protection against RFI and EMI interference.
* RoHS Compliant.
* Bandwidth is 340 MHz (10.2 Gigabits per second).
* Precise 100-ohm impedance.
* 19-pin male / male Type-A HDMI connectors.
* Gold-plated corrosion-resistant certified connectors.
* Gas-injected dielectric insulation.
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post #5608 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ckelly33 View Post

What if your TV is actually a monitor (Pioneer considers the PRO-FHD1 1080p plasma to be a monitor - since it has no tuner).

It has nothing to do with that. Note: this primarily concern DVI ports on the TV as they only accept RGB color space. Some TV's DVI ports are designed to be used with PCs and expect PC video spec (0~255). When connect to this kind of TV, you need set the player to output to monitor otherwise your picuture will appear washed out. Some TV's DVI ports are designed to be connected by video devices and expect standard video spec (16~235). You need set your player to output standard or TV otherwise your picture will appear overly dark (black crush). Some TVs allow you to pick which standard you want to (mostly Samsung TVs) use and you should pick one that matches both ends.
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post #5609 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Once updated to 1.2, those with an issue with this disc had the problem go away.

Even with 1.2, 'No Country for Old Man' is not flawless. I got 50/50 chance to get the disc play on my player. It will just freeze while loading and I have to turn off the player and turn it back on. It will play from there. I also got quite some cracking noises when using 5.1 analog out and select multi-channel PCM sound track.
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post #5610 of 13681 Old 03-26-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by kwindrem View Post

Bettercables are much, much more expensive than Bluejeans Cables or Monoprice.

Also, 1080p24 uses 20% LESS bandwidth than 1080i. 1080p60 uses double what's needed for 1080i so is the worst case scenario. Deep color requires additional bandwidth (up to double) but I don't think any devices are taking advantage of it yet.

I believe the official spec for HDMI is only up to 15 ft (I maybe wrong). Anything over that length is off the spec and even the manufacturer can't guarrante if the cable will work or not on your particular configuration. It largely depends on how well the HDMI transmitters on both ends respond to out of spec signals on long cables.
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