Originally Posted by RobisConfused
Originally Posted by arnyk
IME a large percentage of the HDMI gripes we have around here seem to have the word XBOX or PS3 in them. I was going to ask you about what happens when you switch between two real audio devices, but you don't seem to have what it takes to play.
Now if you had a good BD player and could tell me what happens when you switch between it and the Cable box...
OTOH, I should ask you if the cable box says "Scientific Atlanta" on its front. I recently did a Comcast -> Wowway switch and while the old Motorola DVR was not my favorite digital front end, the one from Scientific Atlanta has at least once made me think that my TV set was broken.
One of your problems is that you seem to be comparing the real world to an ideal that may exist only in your mind.
I don't know what your problem is, but I do know that you could order up a bunch of HDMI 1.4 cables off the web and put those thoughts about magic cables to rest.
Also, if you had a HDTV you could use it to switch among your HDMI device farm and see what shakes...
Seriously, what "ideal world" in my mind are you talking about?
The one where everything works perfectly the first time you try it.
Seriously, sorry I only use a Xbox and PS3 and not a REAL audio device lol. I would imagine me saying I spent $400 bucks on an AVR and some low end Pioneer speakers you would know right from the start I wasn't going to be talking your "real audiophile" equipment.
Actually, I was thinking of something like a $90 Blu Ray player.
Here are some important points that I hope will help you:
HDMI is a digital format, which means that pretty much cables work or don't work with very little in-between. One parameter that can make the difference between working and not working is screen resolution. As long as everything is running at 1920 x 1080 x 60 Hz, there shouldn't be a problem. You may be able to set lower resolutions for testing. If something works at a lower resolution and doesn't work at a higher resolution then there might actually be a problem with the cable, as in its too long.
There are a number of grades of HDMI cable distinguished by the standard that they meet. Relevant numbers are 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4. For basic video and audio, anything from 1.2 up should work. If you shop around you can find cables that meet the latest standards for under $10 for a 6 foot cable, so cheap isn't really an issue.
As others have pointed out, sometimes HDMI gear just takes a little while, even a minute or two to settle out after a switch over. Every time you switch to a new HDMI source the source and the AVR or TV have to negotiate the connection so that they are both operating at the highest possible resolution etc., that they both support.
Your best trouble shooting tool would be an additional HDMI device which you may already have if you have a HD TV. Compare and contrast how the TV reacts to switching among your gear as compared to the AVR.
If you can beg or borrow a cheap Blu Ray player with a HDMI output, it becomes an additional tool for evaluating how your equipment reacts to being switched.
Your AVR may have upgradable firmware, which you may be able update following a procedure that would be in its user manual. If you didn't get a user manual with it, there is no doubt one on the web.
Since HDMI is so complex it is hard to point the finger at a certain device as being the offender without gathering a fair amount of information. Your AVR or any of the sources could be the offender.
As I pointed out before, courtesy of a Comcast to Wowway switchover with big economic advantages I had to downgrade from a Motorola DVR to a Scientific Atlanta DVR, and the latter has made the device I drive it with act flakey. The point is that it is probably the SA DVR that is the bad boy, but its the TV that displays all the bad behavior. The same could be true with your AVR. Or not.