DIY Curved Screen with structural extruded aluminum metal framing - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 123 Old 02-23-2009, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlittlejeans View Post

I ordered from that Bosch website and got it from the distributor near Toronto. If you place the order online and are in Toronto area, it will be filled by a company called advanced motion & controls in Mississauga. They used Purolator to deliver to my door for like $7. Interestingly, the materials from them actually came in cheaper than the quote from the Bosch website.

Did you place your order on Canadian site or US.?, did you have the cut if for you?

EluneVision 106" Reference Studio 4K Tab-tensioned - 1.0 Gain, Benq 1070, psb T6, Rotel, OPPO, Velodine (Now),
135" AT screen, JVC-X35, 3x RF82, 3x Emotiva XPA100, Velodine, Rotel, OPPO (Sold with house).
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post #62 of 123 Old 02-23-2009, 01:04 PM
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I went to the link in the beginning of the thread and set up an account. Then placed an order. Ended up getting an email from the Canadian distributor a couple of days later and they repriced it for me and I ordered from them. Basically, the Bosch website forwarded my order to the Canadian distributor and they handled it.

I had them cut it for me. I used the 30mm pieces with one support in the middle. I haven't actually set it up yet as before I knew about the Bosch site, I had built a screen with 2X4's which seems to be working all right for the moment with no support in the middle.

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence

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post #63 of 123 Old 02-23-2009, 01:08 PM
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thanks, I'm going through Canadian site (or at least it seems that way), will see what happens.

EluneVision 106" Reference Studio 4K Tab-tensioned - 1.0 Gain, Benq 1070, psb T6, Rotel, OPPO, Velodine (Now),
135" AT screen, JVC-X35, 3x RF82, 3x Emotiva XPA100, Velodine, Rotel, OPPO (Sold with house).
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post #64 of 123 Old 03-21-2009, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Masking 101:
I finally made my masks for 16:9 viewing.

Found these foil back 3/4" foam boards at the Lansing Michigan Menards back in January, lightweight and much sturdier than just foam boards.
Cheap, around $10 for a 4' x 8', cut in half at the store to fit in my car.

Prior during screen build I placed the 3/8" dia magnets in the border.

Verify 16:9 projection image, use blue tape to show.
At this time I re-confirmed my screen to PJ alignment, using LH side wall as datum, 7' 2.5" center PJ to screen matched exactly, PJ/a-Lens re-tuned.


Make template for exact transfer to foam foilboards:


Cut to exact size, templates help confirm exact location of all 5 magnets relative to the edges.
I cut the foam to be 1/4" inside the screen border edge on the 3 matching sides.
You can see the 5 magnets embedded in the foil/foam board just flush with surface:




I used foil HVAC tape to secure the magnets.
1st piece on the magnet/back side, 2nd piece I wraped back to front side to securley hold the 1st piece, those little magnets are really strong and I wanted them held in place.
Did not even try glue/silicone caulk.
I was worried glue/silicone would "melt" the foam board, not sure if it would or not but I had the foil tape on hand and it works.


Dry trial before putting black velvet on them:


3" overhang for the black velvet all sides:


Electric staple gun, used 1/2" depth staples, they grabbed/held in the foil backing perfectly (one of the reason I choose the foil foam panel)


Edge treatment, not prefect from backside but no binds from frontside :


Result:
Lights on:


Turned lights off, took pict, then Photo Elements back into the orig pict for this view.


Of course my 3 year old was watching Sponge Bob, so what the heck here is that for the family people here:


Storage:
They are 17" wide, by chance I have 18" below the center shelf, so when not used they will go under there!!
(I can't say I planned it that way, sometimes lady luck come your way)

One more sub-project done in the overall HT/Basement project.
March 21st, 2009.
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post #65 of 123 Old 03-23-2009, 05:28 AM
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Very, very cool. Looks good A+

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135" AT screen, JVC-X35, 3x RF82, 3x Emotiva XPA100, Velodine, Rotel, OPPO (Sold with house).
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post #66 of 123 Old 04-22-2009, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Masking tweak, or, when using magnets make sure your velvet backside is flat as possible.

The panels were holding "ok", but I felt those magnets should have more attraction.
I found out my velvet was bunched in the corners too much, holding the panel slightly away.

Spent 30-ish minutes re-doing 6 of 8 corners, I noticed the extra magnetic attraction when done.

Left side shows bunched up corner:


Re-done area prior to stapling.
Remove staples, trim excess away, re-staple wrap sides, pull corner "strap" taunt but not too tight, staple.
Again, the foil helps so much holding the staples.
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post #67 of 123 Old 01-21-2010, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted the below in the DIY Screen Section, but will be documenting the build here:

I've seen quite a few good/slick DIY masking designs here.

For "my turn", I'm going to combine an automotive sunroof mechanism with an automotive rear shade mechanism
This on each RH/LH side will pull shut, they even have variable stop mech.
(extruded track + motor/dual cables)


while the shade mechanism (roller) will pull shut (with different dark/black fabric wrap on the roller, not sun shade fabric)


I know people who work at suppliers for both components.
Another summer 2010 job on my to-do list.
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post #68 of 123 Old 01-21-2010, 10:42 AM
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I'll be watching!

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post #69 of 123 Old 01-21-2010, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I'll be watching!

This will be a spring/summer 2010 job, but I am doing research and discussion with my auto supplier contacts. Being in the auto biz for 25+ years you build up the info/contact network.
I'm also trying to get some "old obsolete" teardown parts to experiment/play with.
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post #70 of 123 Old 01-21-2010, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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With the above in mind, I also will be tackling an issue that arose with my screen

My issue with current HT screen is I used pine baseboard to establish the curve, as shown in this build thread.

I’ve come to realize over seasonal humidity changes that is not desirable; the pine baseboard “grows” slightly (lengthwise) in high enough humidity. And, I have contact cement all around the perimeter of my laminate. Yet, the aluminum is rigid and very stable, So, recipe for some issue, something has gotta give.

I built my screen in the dry of late fall/early winter Nov-2008, last summer (July/August 2009) I noticed a slight buckle in my laminate screen at the center, very slight but there.

Here is a YouTube video showing the condition,
&fs=1" width="644" height="390">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&fs=1" />[ATTN POSTER: YouTube Insert Error: Something went wrong. Please make sure you added the video correctly. Click here to see how YouTube videos should be embedded. There could also be a technical issue that's not your fault. Click 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" target="_blank">here to view the video on YouTube's site. If this link doesn't work, you did something wrong.]


You can sorta see the buckle here; the bluecloth is the mid support where the laminate material was forced to buckle upon humidity expansion of the perimeter pine boards. The buckle is about 1/2".


It actually came back to “normal” condition around November, so 3-4 months high humidity during summer.

Honestly, because I knew it, I could see it, but there were no defining lines (like a cloth material sag/etc), so it was NOT visible from seating or even relatively close with PJ on. If you looked at severe angle/sideways you could see it (w/o PJ on). But, still I want to fix it with correct countermeasure.
Larry ("LarryCheif") and I discussed this last summer, his screen is not attached to the laminate via contact cement, rather his laminate can float via his attachment method, so as his wood would grow slightly with humidity, his won't buckle.


If I lived in a stable humidity climate, either dry like AZ or even humid like near ocean would not have noticed this, but most portions of USA have humidity fluctuations that this will be issue.

Being an Engineer, I'm sharing this with people and at same time trying for better, robust solution that is easier for us DIY builders at same time.

I'm arranging a meeting with our Bosch rep here at work, sent him the below note:
Quote:


Randy;

I’m ready to make another HT viewing screen; does Bosch have the capability to curve the sq alum framing?

Specifically, I’d be interested in the 30 x 30 sq profile curved to a 39.6 foot radius.

(2) 11 foot pieces for top and bottom, all the other would be straight.

Plus, many people are intimidated by calculating the needed riser blocks to establish the curve by the method I developed.(Not hard, they just hate geometry/formulas…..)

If you, Bosch, could offer that service (curve sq alum framing) it would open up curved screen making to many more people, and be a more robust design than mine.

I informed him the exact above laminate buckle situation (actually this post is cut/paste from my email to him).


My possible solutions to this are (in priority ranking, assuming I keep DW laminate as my screen material):
a) Curved Alum Framing - re-design of my concept
b) Use non-wood for forming the curve that is stable to humidity changes. That would work, if one could find suitable/low cost/light weight.
c) Keep same basic concept, but used floating laminate mtg concept so stress/strain is not there and no buckle (like Larry did)
d) glue down @ the middle 3 supports.....this is last as not a real solution but rather possible a temp fix for existing design, may cause other stress/strain smaller buckle issues....

Other solution, use other material as screen material, some that needs stretching and can "take" a little movement:
e) BOC
f) etc

>>I'm also thinking with modifying my current curved frame/scree screen via
-removing the laminate (just router it at inside edge of pine baseboard)
-Use BOC + paint mixture, consult with MM on his idea of "best painted screen material" that could withstand some seasonal frame changes
to be continued......
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post #71 of 123 Old 01-22-2010, 07:52 PM
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Mike is right...my WA DW curved screen is "hanging in there" just perfectly (so far). It remains to be seen how it behaves in higher humidity, but my basement HT typically does not exceed 60%, so I'm not expecting any problems. Some of my construction pictures are posted in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1193432
I have a bit more complete updated image file I'd be happy to post to anyone who requests, to Larrychief@aol.com.

Larry
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post #72 of 123 Old 01-30-2010, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Update:
Randy called me Friday 1-28 morning, Bosch can curve the 30x30 sq framing.
They have done it before for other clients on smaller pieces in 2-3 foot length, not 11 foot like I asked.
They'd do it immediately after the extrusion pocess, while the alum is hot and formable.
What he desires is the tolerance I'd be willing to accept.
That's a real world Q for a manuf / process.

My nominal is 39.6' per AussieBob's eq sheet @ 16.25' throw.
I told him "I'd swag at plus/minus 1 foot as acceptable, but the change rate of radius for the curvature is important to be consistent." In other words, constant curve is more important than having the curve itself exact.
Also told him I would post that Q here, since you guys have other insight than I.

So, nothing is built perfect, and as I tried to reverse engineer AussieBob's spreadsheet via changing my throw distance to see plus/minus 1 foot radius curvature I have:

throw curvature
15.75 38.6
16.25 39.6
17.15 41.6

No, I'd NOT move my pj fwd/back if curve not exactly 39.6, rather I was curious how much different curve needed for diff throw distance.

Insight/advice from others appreciated.

Note:
I made clear to him I'm a DIY'er, not a business, so this would be a "one time" request for now but possible other DIY'ers might be interested since it would greatly simplify making curved screens.
We've not discussed additional process fee, sometimes places like to do basic R&D like this to further their competitiveness......if times are slow due to recession why not further your capability for un-met needs. Still, the 1st time you do something if it does not turn out there is scrap + time involved, re-set up for another run, etc.
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post #73 of 123 Old 01-30-2010, 08:28 PM
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Hi mtbdudex, just confirm with the fabricator that they can curve the full 11 feet and do not require an additional 2 feet at each end for the rollers.

Mark Techer

I love my Constant Image Height system!
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post #74 of 123 Old 01-30-2010, 08:48 PM
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And, freight costs, UPS won't carry over 8'.
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post #75 of 123 Old 02-03-2010, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thx guys for feedback, I'm replying today to my contact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Hi mtbdudex, just confirm with the fabricator that they can curve the full 11 feet and do not require an additional 2 feet at each end for the rollers.

The 30 x 30 profile comes in at least 20' sections, so hopefully not an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

And, freight costs, UPS won't carry over 8'.

Yea, I'm within 30 minutes drive of their warehouse, being in SE Michigan has some advantages.
I'll ask for other avs members their options for shipping within USA oversize.
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post #76 of 123 Old 02-03-2010, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Yea, I'm within 30 minutes drive of their warehouse, being in SE Michigan has some advantages.
I'll ask for other avs members their options for shipping within USA oversize.

I don't have exact costs (see response below from a year or two ago), but when I spoke with the rep I seem to remember him saying it would be around $150 to drop ship.

Quote:


Thank you for the inquiry on the 80/20 products. No we do not stock much of any of the 80/20 products. A few nuts and bolts, and that's about it. They have no minimum order, usually ships in 1 day, and most of it is cut to order.

If you're looking for a whole 4 M stick, you can order it just like that.

25-2525-4M $33.60 each.

If you would like to put this on order I'd be more than happy to help you with that. I could even drop ship it to you from the factory. The 4M length it too long to go UPS. That's one of the reasons that people would have it cut. They only charge 2-3 dollars per cut for most extrusions, which would more than offset the cost of shipping something this light via common carrier. Most of us cannot cut this for the 2-3 dollars that they charge. They cut it, de burr it, wash it, dry it, and wrap it.

John Schlarb likes this.

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post #77 of 123 Old 03-05-2010, 06:28 AM
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Any update on this? I'm curious to find out how things went, and if they'd be willing to do it again in the future?

Thanks

-Sean
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post #78 of 123 Old 03-13-2010, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Any update on this? I'm curious to find out how things went, and if they'd be willing to do it again in the future?

Thanks

-Sean

Having Bosch themself doing the curve would be very expensive, over $500 for curving the 2 pieces (top/bottom). They would have done it right after the extrusion die in the actual production process. That is "best way", as you could ensure quality control from the manuf itself. Limited set-up, outside of normal process, special order, so relatively high costs.

I'm getting a 2nd quote from a local shop who will bend the pieces in their own method. I've not given up.
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post #79 of 123 Old 04-15-2010, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Having Bosch themself doing the curve would be very expensive, over $500 for curving the 2 pieces (top/bottom). They would have done it right after the extrusion die in the actual production process. That is "best way", as you could ensure quality control from the manuf itself. Limited set-up, outside of normal process, special order, so relatively high costs.

I'm getting a 2nd quote from a local shop who will bend the pieces in their own method. I've not given up.

[update]
I spoke with 2 shops here in SE Michigan past week.
Local shop would charge about $175-ish USD to curve both of the 30x30 profile pcs.
I'd have to get about 4' total longer for their holding process.

If later summer/fall I do decide to make screen Ver2.0 I'll go this route.
The extra cost would greatly simplify the curve making, and being 100% non-wood would guarantee environmental stability.
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post #80 of 123 Old 05-21-2010, 04:04 PM
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Catching up on this thread...

Quote:
I spoke with 2 shops here in SE Michigan past week.
Local shop would charge about $175-ish USD to curve both of the 30x30 profile pcs.
I'd have to get about 4' total longer for their holding process.

I imagine that any shop with a tube bending machine (roller type) could easily do this work. However, I'm not sure if that would trash the grooves in the aluminum.
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post #81 of 123 Old 05-24-2010, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R View Post

Catching up on this thread...

I imagine that any shop with a tube bending machine (roller type) could easily do this work. However, I'm not sure if that would trash the grooves in the aluminum.

When I looked into it over here, they said they would fill the profile with sand to prevent compression, however could not guarantee the profile would not crush. Like was said, they also needed 600mm (2 feet) extra for the rollers or you end up with with flat spots at each end.

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post #82 of 123 Old 06-02-2010, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, 2 weeks ago the humidity level was still low, and the Formica screen was still flat/in plane of the curve.

However, moist air came and Friday 5/29 I noticed slight wave in the Formica screen.
So like last year the wood is expanding and due to my hybrid aluminum flat/stable base and baseboard wood curved surface, when the wood expands ever so slightly eventually I get a slight buckle in the very center screen surface.
Not noticeable at all from viewing position when watching content, and just barely noticeable from side angle with lights on no image.

...worthwhile to make a whole new screen....probably, since it bothers me.....nobody else sees it.....still bothers me

Got so many other non-HT project happening this is "on hold" until the fall.
Reviewing my Jan-2010 post on this and focusing on 2 choices:
Option A:
Modifying my current curved frame/screen via
-removing the laminate (just router it at inside edge of pine baseboard)
-Use cloth (BOC or ??) + paint mixture, consult with MM on his idea of "best painted screen material" for my Sony 60 PJ that could withstand some seasonal frame changes
>>My manual masks still work here

Option B:
Total new curved frame build:
Frame:
-using local shop to curve 30x30 sq tubing; 100% stable curved frame
Screen:
-cloth screen material + paint mixture
>>I'd also then work on my auto masks using the auto 12vdc sunroof motor/dual cable system

Option A vs Option B.....

It would be "neat" to do Option B with new screen material + paint mixture, would take my HT image to best possible level with my Sony 60 PJ. The icing on the cake would be automated masking.
Option B could be a work in progress Fall/Winter build, and I'd still have current screen to watch content with and eventually some comparison.

I could even sell that to someone else in future, and they could "re-skin" it under Option A process then, that is a win-win scenario.
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post #83 of 123 Old 06-23-2010, 11:57 AM
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Hi Mike,

I ran across a company that offers bending of t-slot track (maybe there are more), while too late for your finished screen frame, maybe useful for others. The company is Maytec Inc., US home office is in West Dundee, IL (see distributor map for your local dealers). Their home office is in Europe.

http://www.maytec.de/mainframe_e.htm

US web site: www.maytecinc.com


PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John
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post #84 of 123 Old 06-24-2010, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

Hi Mike,

I ran across a company that offers bending of t-slot track (maybe there are more), while too late for your finished screen frame, maybe useful for others. The company is Maytec Inc., US home office is in West Dundee, IL (see distributor map for your local dealers). Their home office is in Europe.

http://www.maytec.de/mainframe_e.htm

US web site: www.maytecinc.com


PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John

Nice find, I wish I knew about this place before I tackled my screen, the home office is about an hour away from me. I still might look into it, for my future screen of course.

-Sean
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post #85 of 123 Old 07-03-2010, 05:50 AM
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Mike, last night I read this thread and I just wanted to say I'm impressed. I'd also like to say thanks for providing the source for the extruded aluminum as I may just be using them to build a crosshatch screen mounting system whereby I'd use to horizontal runs wall to wall (I'm in a narrow 12'x26' room) and one or more vertical runs to mount a non-DIY AT screen to. I am pretty sure I can fins a local provider to anodize the materials.

Again, nice job!

"What we do in life echoes in eternity." General Maximus Decimus Meridius
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post #86 of 123 Old 07-15-2010, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post


PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John

hmmmm, on my computer there is a huge Google add on that post RH side, yet I can see past it. Some compatibility issue with your browser??
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post #87 of 123 Old 07-15-2010, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 18628239 View Post

Mike, last night I read this thread and I just wanted to say I'm impressed. I'd also like to say thanks for providing the source for the extruded aluminum as I may just be using them to build a crosshatch screen mounting system whereby I'd use to horizontal runs wall to wall (I'm in a narrow 12'x26' room) and one or more vertical runs to mount a non-DIY AT screen to. I am pretty sure I can fins a local provider to anodize the materials.

Again, nice job!

Thx, I've learned so much in this forum, so hopefully by documenting my project(s) I've increased the overall knowledge base here.
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post #88 of 123 Old 09-03-2010, 12:57 AM
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This thread is so great! Thank you very much.

After looking into all sorts of building materials (steel/aluminium L-profiles, wood etc) for my 102'' screen frame I ordered the boschrexroth material yesterday. It's perfect for easy testing of several different spandex layer setups for my emachines V700 (aka acer H5360) projector.

I'm using two 20x20 profiles with a length of 2360mm and two 20x20 with a length of 1370mm. Those will be connected with 4 of the 2way cube connectors.
http://www.boschrexroth.com/business...l_blauwelt.jpg

I added 70mm on each side of the 102'' screen frame because I'm working on a DIY spandex blackscreen for daylight viewing and need those 70mm for 'integrated' masking purposes.

The cube connectors were ordered because i didn't want any sharp corners and there is no need for 45° angles with those.

I'll use several layers of different colored 4-way spandex, which will be stretched over the frame and connected in the rear of the frame with black plastic tubes.

In case I run into problems fixating the spandex in the corners I'll screw thin steel washers on the cubes rear and use superstrong neodym magnets (15mmx3mm, 2.3kg pull) to solve that problem.

The complete screen will only have a weight of about 4-5kg.

This thread was a real 'lifesaver'. I almost had a fit finding the right frame material and was about to go for a steel frame plus neodym magnets solution.

The boschrexroth material is much cheaper than any hardware store material and very light weight. Exactly what I was looking for. Without this thread I would never have found it...

Best regards!
Darker_plz
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post #89 of 123 Old 09-07-2010, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Update as of 12-15-08.
My work uses this structural extruded aluminum metal framing for many testing fixtures; I've always thought it would also make a good screen frame material.
Sorta like a tinker-toy approach, std fasteners can be used, should make it easy for others who want alternative to a wood frame for whatever their reason. You can cut this stuff with carbide saw blade, easy workability.
No welding.
Now, with my HT project is the time to actually do something.

After speaking to the test technicians and the guy who designs their test jigs, he pointed me to their website,http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/framing_shop/ .

You've might have seen this stuff in manufacturing workcells or test labs, etc:


Neat stuff, easy to order, lots of choices - too many if just looking at the catalog.
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Fra...category=10101

Our work uses the larger sizes for jigs and test fixtures, 40mmx40mm and larger, however I felt 20mmx20mm should suffice for a static loaded DIY 2.37:1 curved screen frame.
This was also based on a meeting I had with their sales rep, nice guy, he informed me many of the large commercial screens use their stuff.

Here is x-section image from website:

Any pricing information on the 20x20?
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post #90 of 123 Old 09-07-2010, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Darker_plz View Post

This thread is so great! Thank you very much.

........

The boschrexroth material is much cheaper than any hardware store material and very light weight. Exactly what I was looking for. Without this thread I would never have found it...

Best regards!
Darker_plz

The DIY spirit is about sharing, doing, and having others take what you've done to the next level.
Darker_plz, did you make a build thread for your project? If you have some picts/etc would be good for others to see your method.

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Originally Posted by msmCutter View Post

Any pricing information on the 20x20?

Call them our use their website for pricing. That's how I got started, plus you'll have a contact then.
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