With the above in mind, I also will be tackling an issue that arose with my screen
My issue with current HT screen is I used pine baseboard to establish the curve, as shown in this build thread.
I’ve come to realize over seasonal humidity changes that is not desirable; the pine baseboard “grows” slightly (lengthwise) in high enough humidity. And, I have contact cement all around the perimeter of my laminate. Yet, the aluminum is rigid and very stable, So, recipe for some issue, something has gotta give.
I built my screen in the dry of late fall/early winter Nov-2008, last summer (July/August 2009) I noticed a slight buckle in my laminate screen at the center, very slight but there.
Here is a YouTube video showing the condition,
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to view the video on YouTube's site. If this link doesn't work, you did something wrong.]
You can sorta see the buckle here; the bluecloth is the mid support where the laminate material was forced to buckle upon humidity expansion of the perimeter pine boards. The buckle is about 1/2".
It actually came back to “normal” condition around November, so 3-4 months high humidity during summer.
Honestly, because I knew it, I could see it, but there were no defining lines (like a cloth material sag/etc), so it was NOT visible from seating or even relatively close with PJ on. If you looked at severe angle/sideways you could see it (w/o PJ on). But, still I want to fix it with correct countermeasure.
Larry ("LarryCheif") and I discussed this last summer, his screen is not attached to the laminate via contact cement, rather his laminate can float via his attachment method, so as his wood would grow slightly with humidity, his won't buckle.
If I lived in a stable humidity climate, either dry like AZ or even humid like near ocean would not have noticed this, but most portions of USA have humidity fluctuations that this will be issue.
Being an Engineer, I'm sharing this with people and at same time trying for better, robust solution that is easier for us DIY builders at same time.
I'm arranging a meeting with our Bosch rep here at work, sent him the below note:
I’m ready to make another HT viewing screen; does Bosch have the capability to curve the sq alum framing?
Specifically, I’d be interested in the 30 x 30 sq profile curved to a 39.6 foot radius.
(2) 11 foot pieces for top and bottom, all the other would be straight.
Plus, many people are intimidated by calculating the needed riser blocks to establish the curve by the method I developed.(Not hard, they just hate geometry/formulas…..)
If you, Bosch, could offer that service (curve sq alum framing) it would open up curved screen making to many more people, and be a more robust design than mine.
I informed him the exact above laminate buckle situation (actually this post is cut/paste from my email to him).
My possible solutions to this are (in priority ranking, assuming I keep DW laminate as my screen material):
a) Curved Alum Framing - re-design of my concept
b) Use non-wood for forming the curve that is stable to humidity changes. That would work, if one could find suitable/low cost/light weight.
c) Keep same basic concept, but used floating laminate mtg concept so stress/strain is not there and no buckle (like Larry did)
d) glue down @ the middle 3 supports.....this is last as not a real solution but rather possible a temp fix for existing design, may cause other stress/strain smaller buckle issues....
Other solution, use other material as screen material, some that needs stretching and can "take" a little movement:
>>I'm also thinking with modifying my current curved frame/scree screen via
-removing the laminate (just router it at inside edge of pine baseboard)
-Use BOC + paint mixture, consult with MM on his idea of "best painted screen material" that could withstand some seasonal frame changes
to be continued......